View Full Version : Curvy o/r o/y wire
Should there be voltage on the orange red wire at the ecu
And voltage on the orange yellow at the ignition ?
Cheers
generally speaking Orange and any colour of tracer is ignition live.
''should there be power at the O/R on the ecu (ignitor)'' yes is the answer as it goes directly from the ignition so i would presume that its the main power feed to the ignitor. the only other Orange/?? that is connected to the Ignition switch is Orange without a tracer which is the main ignition live power feed out which powers your main fuse box and lighting circuit.
i looked at the wiring schematic and the only O/Y is exiting the fuse box which is powered by Orange which is the main power from ignition.
give us a clue as to what problems you are having and we might be able to help a little better.
Theres no spark so not running
And whilst looking through other posts similar to my issue someone mentioned to check for 6v on the o/r at the ignitor and 6v on o/y at the ignition which i dont have.
Everything else on my bike works. Lights starter live to coils etc
does the bike crank over off the starter switch?
have you tried a fresh set of plugs?
Ive changed the stator and loom already but no joy
well i would first check the HT leads and see if they are corroded at the ends going into the coil and then the plug cap.
does the bike crank over if sitting in gear with the sidestand down or and the clutch not pulled in? check this (remember to sit on the bike).
Ht leads are good on both ends no corrosion and tried a different plug too
Wont turn over if side stand is down
But did turn over in gear
in gear with clutch out and sidestand up... turn over e.g. bike tries to lunge forward?
in gear with sidestand down and clutch in... turn over e.g. bike tries to lunge forward?
Clutch out in gear side stand up bike lunges forward yes
then your clutch switch is fubar.
with the sidetand up and in gear then unless you pull the clutch in the bike should not start. if the clutch is left out and bike in gear the bike should not start and if it does then the safety switch is fubar. unclip the clutch switch and place a jumper in the connector then try and start the bike. if it is the switch then replace the switch... dont be a moron and leave the jumper in, get a new switch.
physically check for spark at both the plugs.. spark yes or no?
how good is the spark if you have one.. its should be a nice blue/white visible spark.
Just checked that and the previous owner has soldered the two wires together. New one on order now
So its not that lol
ok then thats no power to the coils or no negative path. (if the plugs were held against the cylinder while checking)
check the main negative (earth). take a multimeter and check for continuity between engine and negative battery terminal.
you can also check via the positive terminal as well but change your multimeter to 20vdc range. place the red probe on the battery positive and the black probe on the engine. you should see 11-13v on the meter depending on the state of your battery. (it's just like checking the battery voltage)
Just checked all the frame and engine inc coil bolts has a good earth. I even put a good thick wire across to the plug but still no spark.
Theres 12v to both coil connections/wires
Still no joy
I am grateful for all this help
it looks like it is indeed the ignitor. only real way of knowing is to change it out with a known good one.
now my brain is a bit foggy on this but O/W should have a constant 12v and the other terminal should go to 12v depending on crank position (spark) and all other times should be 0 volt or is it the other way round.. lol. its a long time since i have messed with ignition systems.
after that its beyond my pay grade :smt043
Yeh for the last couple weeks ive been going over mearly everything and it all seems to point to the ignitor/ecu
Ive just bought one from another member on here so hopefully its that. I will keep you posted on here
Thanks for the advice
Triumphs (triples and twins) exhibit similar symptoms when the Crank position sensor has failed. Might be called the pulse generator coil on the SV, not sure what the resistance should be - roughly 200 *ohms (?) but you'd need an oscilloscope to check it properly but you can at least check its resistance and see if it's properly connected. On a Triumph it comes with the stator and can't be bought separately (from Triumph).
It tells the ECU when to fire the plugs.
Theres resistance on all 3 yellow wires and the same on my old 1
The resistance of the pick up coil should be 140-230 ohm measured between green and white wires (and open circuit between white and ground). If your multimeter has a peak hold option (it displays the highest voltage it sees on a moving signal) you can measure the pulses from the coil - should be greater than 3 V (chapter 7.28 in curvy SV manual)
the 3 yellow wires you mentioned are part of the alternator (the stator) and are used for generating the ac voltage which goes to the rectifier/regulator to charge the battery. There's another coil that picks up the crankshaft rotation which is equivalent to the contact breakers on old bikes (if you're old enough to remember those). It produces a pulse (or several pulses) as the crankshaft rotates and tells the ECU to fire the plugs at the right time, if it doesn't produce a pulse you won't get a spark.
here's picture of a stator and you can see the green and white wires for the pick up coil and the pick up coil itself just to the right of the stator
178 ohms green and white wires and 14v on white and ground and 3v when not cranking
21QUEST
29-01-17, 11:17 AM
Hello,
Engine cranking over but no spark?
That being the case, the problem is possibly a break in the red/orange wire.
Do a continuity test on the R/O wire....between connector block at ECU and front of the main loom.
If memory serves me right, the O/R wire providesome power(?) to the crank sensor.
Does that make sense to you?
I had a similar issue a few years ago....I'd try and see if I can find the thread.
O/w at ignitor 12v Yes
O/r at ignitor no volts
Well, I'm baffled. I thought that any orange wire with a tracer was a switched 12v but if you look at the schematic the orange/red at the ignitor goes to the ignition switch and becomes black with white tracer which is ground. Why switch a ground, I'm missing something.
To further complicate matters, the simplified diagram shows power for the ignitor is fed via o/y wire but I can't see a o/y wire.
Its ok i have another ignitor on its way in the post so i will wait for the to arrive
Cheers anyway so far lol
Hi yes i did test for the 100ohms anti theft thing and yes there is 100 ohms.
I have purchased a new ignition due to mine being stiff just waiting for it to arrive same as the ecu.
I've even brought my bike into my kitchen so its closer to the kettle
Its alive..... cheers guys for your help. It was the ecu that was fried
Blapper
02-02-17, 04:54 PM
Great stuff!
I did a swap for my er5 and didnt realise it needed loads doing but i knew id be happier with the sv than the er5
Parts replaced so far in the past 6 weeks....
Front pads
Rear pads
Unseize front and rear calipers
Complete wiring loom
Front driving light
Both headlight bulbs
Both brake light bulbs
Rear grab rail
New spark plugs
New oil + filter
Rear tyre
Generator/stator
And the rear licence plate bulb.
OMG lol
Blapper
04-02-17, 07:58 AM
Sounds good. It will be a great bike soon, needing only routine maintenance.
Oh my god.
I think this ecm has just died
I was trying to get it running for the first proper run/tick over to see how she runs and it was trying to start so i presumed it had ****e fuel in the tank so drained the carbs and put some fresh fuel into the fuel pipe and attempted to start it again but no not trying at all so i pulled a plug to test for spark and nothing. Aaaaarrrrrrrrr
Disregard the last message. Its a faulty plug
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