Anyonen had a stuck oil filter recently?

[aesmith]

Hi,

I'm referring to the conventional spin-on oil filters that almost everything uses nowadays. Until recently I've never had trouble removing one, normally they can be undone by hand or occasionally I use a rubber strap wrench to get them started. Now suddenly I've had two in a row that simply didn't want to shift. Completely different engines, one was the SV and one a marine diesel engine, both originally fitted by hand by me. When I say these didn't want to shift I mean they were seriously stuck. The rubber wrench couldn't shift them, and using a chain wrench the cannister was actually buckling and splitting before the base would move. Even stranger they were both almost as stiff after I'd got them undone by 1/2 a turn or more.

Just wondering if they've started making the seals of a different material recently or something.

Anyone had similar, and any tips for removing seriously stuck filters?

Tony S

[Bibio]

get a socket type. cheep and very good. wouldn't be without mine. i also have a snapon band type wrench that is good.

[aesmith]

Cheers, just ordering one ready for next time with the SV. Even when they undo easily, it'll save burning myself on the exhaust. I used one with the CBR for exactly that reason, but sod's law that's a different size. I'm not sure it would have shifted that filter though, suspect it would have just rounded off or crumpled the cannister.

Need a better strap wrench as well.

[bigup]

I use one of these and it's not failed me yet

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003AMVZWC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486315313&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=oil+filter+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31uFZvOYP2L&ref=plSrch

[Tonka22]

Funny enough, I had exactly the same problem yesterday. I can't remember how many spin on oil filters I have changed but it must be dozens. Yesterday on my SV650 I couldn't believe how tight the oil filter was. I had to stab the xin thing to get it off. Correct me if am wrong but I have always understood that oil filters only really need to just over hand tight!

[aesmith]

Yes I tried stabbing a screwdriver through the filter, however all that did was tear the metal and bend the screwdriver. Ended up having to cut a notch in the rim and tap it with a drift to get it started, after that the chain wrench shifted it 1/4 turn at a time, each 1/4 turn moving onto an undamaged part of the cannister.

Absolutely correct about hand tight, but these were both fitted by hand originally so I can't understand why they were such a bear to remove.

[Tonka22]

Yes, that's exactly what happend yesterday. Stabbed it, tried to turn it and the screw driver just ripped its way through the filter. Eventually snapping the screwdriver! Had to use a bigger 18" long screwdriver to shift the xin thing!

[Red ones]

, it'll save burning myself on the exhaust.


It will be easier to take the filter off cold.

[Tonka22]

It was cold!!

[aesmith]

I always feel the oil doesn't drain properly if you do it cold.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[Biker Biggles]

Yes I tried stabbing a screwdriver through the filter, however all that did was tear the metal and bend the screwdriver. Ended up having to cut a notch in the rim and tap it with a drift to get it started, after that the chain wrench shifted it 1/4 turn at a time, each 1/4 turn moving onto an undamaged part of the cannister.

Absolutely correct about hand tight, but these were both fitted by hand originally so I can't understand why they were such a bear to remove.

From that description I suspect a crossed thread or even an incorrect thread.It certainly should unscrew easily once started however tight it had been unless there is something else going on.Did the new filter screw on easily?

[aesmith]

Definitely not crossed thread, in both cases they became completely free after the first turn or so. Would it even seal with a crossed thread?

[SV650rules]

I use one of these and it's not failed me yet

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003AMVZWC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486315313&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=oil+filter+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31uFZvOYP2L&ref=plSrch

I have had one of those for more years than I care to remember and they do work very well, one of the filters I tried to remove was small diameter and I adjusted strap length with a couple more holes. I also have a 'cup' type with a half inch square drive for one of my cars because filter is recessed and can't get anything else on it.

[johnnyrod]

Stabbing them with a screwdriver is the worst advice ever, as you've discovered.

[Sir Trev]

Stabbing them with a screwdriver is the worst advice ever, as you've discovered.

You can be lucky with this method - I was once but I know it was more luck than anything else. I now have a socket type wrench which sits rusting in my toolbox as, well, Spannerman does all my servicing these days...

[Blapper]

Yeah, sl0th86 of this forum had the mother of all stuck filters the other day. I went round with my chain wrench which had lasted me 30 years and promptly busted it on the damn thing. I broke out my massive grips which partially crushed the filter at the end and gave just enough grip to get the blighter off. It came off with a massive scream. If I could have got my hands on the muppet that fitted it he would have made a similar noise...

[aesmith]

If I could have got my hands on the muppet that fitted it ...
That was the thing, both my stuck filters had been fitted only hand tight, just as I normally do. That's why I wondered whether they'd started making the seals different or something.

[maviczap]

I always wipe the new seal with a smear of oil before fitting, don't know if that helps, but touch wood I've never had a problem. I only hand tighten

[shiftin_gear98]

I too had this the last time I swapped out my filter - one I had fitted following the book. Ended up crushing it with a big pair of mole grips to get the blighter off. I have since purchased a removal tool to do the job next time.
However reading this it looks like I still might end up swearing at it. Joy.

[daktulos]

Mine was stuck solid - I broke a jar lid opener trying to unscrew it - but then, it hadn't been changed in 15 years. I bought a K&N replacement, which just needs a spanner to undo if it's stuck.

[Blapper]

Mine was stuck solid - I broke a jar lid opener trying to unscrew it - but then, it hadn't been changed in 15 years. I bought a K&N replacement, which just needs a spanner to undo if it's stuck.

The one on sl0th's bike would have torn that spot welded nut clean off. What with that and the ridiculously (2000Nm) tight front sprocket nut, it is clearly the work of a cretinous mekanik.

[daktulos]

The one on sl0th's bike would have torn that spot welded nut clean off. What with that and the ridiculously (2000Nm) tight front sprocket nut, it is clearly the work of a cretinous mekanik.

Quite possibly - frustratingly, I bought the replacement in advance and then still had to buy a filter wrench to get the old one off, so could have bought a standard one.

[Blapper]

Quite possibly - frustratingly, I bought the replacement in advance and then still had to buy a filter wrench to get the old one off, so could have bought a standard one.

Argh! Typical.;)

[R1ffR4ff]

With ,"Spin-on" oil filters they usually recommend smearing some clean engine oil on the rubber seal.If this isn't done they can become more difficult to remove as the seal can dry out and bond to the metal.

HTH :)

[yokohama]

I need to replace mine before I start riding again this year. When I changed it last year, I'd tightened the previous one up by hand only and smeared oil on the seal but still needed an adjustable wrench around the base to get it off. The constant heat and expansion/contraction of the metals must contribute in some way to making them more difficult to remove.

[Blapper]

They all get tighter as time passes due to heat/cold and the smear of oil being squeezed out I suppose but with the short oil change interval of the SV this shouldn't happen. Mine only required light pressure on a socket ratchet handle to remove it.

[Red Herring]

I only tighten mine by hand (and even then not very tight) and I then have a large jubilee clip that slips over the filter and gets tightened up. The jubilee clip is wired to the bike. This effectively prevents the filter from rotating and coming undone. Rarely have to use anything other than my hand to remove them come service time.

[Blapper]

I turn until the oiled rubber touches up to the mating face then give 1/4 turn. You and I will not have a problem I'm sure.

[Toooldtodie]

I have subscribed to Delboy's Garage on YouTube and he uses the term "gorilla it" for over-tightening which is apt.
Your situation is odd as we all want to make our lives easier so I guess gorilla tightening did not happen, but think of every job you do, corrosion is the SV's thread-lock on everything you need to loosen!! Considering the oil filter gets all the shiz picked up by the front tyre that could explain it.

[Fen Tiger]

If you do the filter up with bare hand it should come undone ok with a rubber gloved hand. That was my technique for years without a problem. As Suzuki provide a tightening torque figure for the SV filter I do it up to that figure with a filter socket and trusted torque wrench. Seems tighter than I would normally have gone to with my hand but still comes off fine. Unless you know your wrench is calibrated, better to do up by hand I reckon.

[Craig380]

The SV manual's advice of "tightening by hand until the rubber seal touches, then two full turns" always seems WAY too tight to me ...

[SV650rules]

I tighten by hand till seal touches and then half a turn with wrench, still tight getting it unscrewed sometimes.

[Blapper]

Yes, what SV650rules said. No more!

[tom_e]

I hand tighten and that's that. Bit of workshop roll to give me decent grip and tighten it up. No issues in 20k miles with it getting stuck or working it's way loose.

[synXero]

About to set about an oil change on my bike and this thread is giving me the fear! Never had a problem in 7 years servicing my own cars; now absolutely expecting to tip the bike over trying to unscrew the bugger haha.

[Blapper]

fingers crossed for ya!

[synXero]

Just whilst I'm here: Champion oil filter OK? Valvolene 10w30 fully synth? Bike is a London commuter but sees redline now and then :D

[SV650rules]

Think 10W-40 is recommended, don't use car oil as it has friction modifiers which could make clutch slip, also car oil does not have the gearbox additives that you need in bike oil because the engine oil is shared with gearbox.

[R1ffR4ff]

I've just changed the oil and filter on my SV650.I used a pair of expandable pliers to get the old filter off as I wasn't going to re-use it.

I went for Motul 10w40 Motorcycle oil as I have used their oils before,with a Hi-Flow filter with a 17mm get-off from M&P Direct.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SV-650-S-X-Half-Faired-No-ABS-1999-Motul-5000-10w40-Hiflo-Racing-Oil-Filter-/141448963394?hash=item20ef03e542:g:IFIAAOSw8cNUS3L L


£28.19.
A little pricey but shes worth it :)
Ordered on Monday night.Said it should be here Friday 24th,Came this morning(Weds 22nd) 11 am ish.Text alerts for when the delivery would be here as well :)

On my old CX500s I used cheap 10w40 made for diesel car engines semi-synthetic oil.Similar specs as Rotella T.As this engine is younger thought I would stick with the proper stuff for now.

[Blapper]

Yes, oil is not a place where newer is better. Read your manual and get a 10W-40 that meets the API rating that Suzuki recommend. NOT fully synth, but semi-synth.

[Bibio]

Just whilst I'm here: Champion oil filter OK? Valvolene 10w30 fully synth? Bike is a London commuter but sees redline now and then :D

buy an OEM (Suzuki) filter. cheep filters are just that full full cheep materials and carp bypass valves. if the bypass valve opens too soon then the filter is not filtering.

as long as its bike oil and 10w40 then its good to go. cheep oil change more often e.g. halfords semi synth bike oil i would say 3k miles but fully synth 3.5-4k miles. dont go beyond 4k miles on any oil. the oil might be ok but the cleaning/clumping agents are gone and its these that keep the internals clean by clumping all the nasty stuff together so it gets caught in the filter media easier. change the filter every oil change especially if your doing short journeys.

[synXero]

Much appreciated. Doesn't say much about PO that it came supplied with the wrong oil grade... I bet this bike has some lovely surprises in store for me!!

[Blapper]

Be positive mate - my bike had the 'wrong grade' oil in it (Top Motul product) because the PO thought if it says 'meets or exceeds all existing specifications' it must be better. He did right by everything else though, so all's well. May be the same for you.

[tom_e]

While 10w30 may not be the defacto choice it's still fine for the temperature ranges seen in the UK according to the service manual so I wouldn't even give it a second thought.

[Craig380]

Especially with the UK bikes having an oil cooler, which is useful for about 2 weeks per year over here ....

[aesmith]

as long as its bike oil and 10w40 then its good to go. cheep oil change more often e.g. halfords semi synth bike oil i would say 3k miles but fully synth 3.5-4k miles.
Interesting as most people say not to use fully synthetic except where the manufacturer specifies. (Although my SV has had the odd top-up with fully synth if that's all I've had to hand).

I've been using this stuff, from an oil and lubricants specialist and it meets all the same standards at £18.99 for 5L. It's a supplier I've used for more specialist lubricants which is why I use them in particular. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121591448043

[R1ffR4ff]

Interesting as most people say not to use fully synthetic except where the manufacturer specifies. (Although my SV has had the odd top-up with fully synth if that's all I've had to hand).

I've been using this stuff, from an oil and lubricants specialist and it meets all the same standards at £18.99 for 5L. It's a supplier I've used for more specialist lubricants which is why I use them in particular. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121591448043

I was looking a that oil myself :)

I went with the Motul kit I posted just for convenience.

A local older rider(Older than me! )

Runs a 1,000 cc Honda.I can't remember if it's a Fireblade or a CBR but he buys 25 ltr drums of semi synthetic 10w40 diesel engine oil from a local supplier and is a bit OTT on oil changes around every 1000/1500 miles but one of his Hondas had,at the last time I met him,198,000 miles on the original engine and still sounds sweet.

I hope I see him again this summer for an update :)

[aesmith]

Probably not to be recommended, but when I lived on a farm a while ago we used some stuff called "Agri Castrol" for everything. We had a 205L drum in the workshop with a hand pump to dispense. It went into .. tractor engines, tractor rear end, other hydraulics, chainsaw 2 stoke mix, chainsaw bar oil, our car engine, and of course my motorcycle.

[Blapper]

Probably not to be recommended, etc

A long way better than nothing at all, but also worse than the right grade/JASO/API.

[R1ffR4ff]

Here's a damn good read.I've read a lot on engine oils over the years,

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

[SV650rules]

that article is from 1994

[R1ffR4ff]

that article is from 1994

But many of it's points are still valid IMHO.

[aesmith]

Interesting, particularly ..
4.The viscosity of petroleum-based oils, whether designed for auto or motorcycle application, drop at approximately the same rate when used in a motorcycle.
5.There is no evidence that motorcycle-specific oils out-perform their automotive counterparts in viscosity retention when used in a motorcycle.

These last two results (4-5) definitely do not agree with what the motorcycle oil producers have been telling us. In fact the test results not only indicate the two motorcycle oils being outperformed in viscosity retention by the two automotive synthetic products. but even by the relatively inexpensive Castrol GTX, which is a petroleum product. This directly contradicts the advertising claims made by the motorcycle oil producers.However it's a shame they didn't test motorcycle specific oils from Castrol and Mobil to make a more direct comparison.

However I guess nobody wants to risk trashing their engine, so for me the not too overpriced motorcycle specific oil makes sense.

[SV650rules]

Oils have come a long way since 1994.

Motorcycle oils are a cross between engine and gearbox oils, gearbox duty puts high shear loads on molecules and the friction modifiers in some car oils can cause clutch problems in bikes.

Like aesmith I will stick with bike specific oil.

here is a quote from an oil article I read - they can't even agree about car oils, let alone bike specific oils.

'Because of the real or perceived need for motor oils with unique qualities, many modern European cars will demand a specific OEM-only oil standard. As a result, they may make no reference at all to API standards, nor SAE viscosity grades. They may also make no primary reference to the ACEA standards, with the exception of being able to use a "lesser" ACEA grade oil for "emergency top-up", though this usually has strict limits, often up to a maximum of litre of non-OEM oil. Harley Davidson may have at least partially hopped onto this bandwagon....'

[Blapper]

Jeez man, please edit that post and change the colour! My eyes - arrrrrgh!

[Red Herring]

Here's a damn good read.I've read a lot on engine oils over the years,

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm


Interesting read, confirms much of what many people suspect however the bottom line is you make your choice and need to be happy with that.

Personally I was a bit chuffed when I read the article because I've been running all my four stroke bikes with the exception of my 1960 Matchless on Mobile1 fully synthetic for as long as I can remember. My Hornet is currently sitting on just under 70k, doesn't burn a drop between services, and I've never had to touch the valve train. My SV has around 20k on it, all of which have been pretty much flat out as it doesn't get ridden any other way.... same story as the Hornet. Oh and they are both still on their original clutches.

[R1ffR4ff]

Interesting read, confirms much of what many people suspect however the bottom line is you make your choice and need to be happy with that.

Personally I was a bit chuffed when I read the article because I've been running all my four stroke bikes with the exception of my 1960 Matchless on Mobile1 fully synthetic for as long as I can remember. My Hornet is currently sitting on just under 70k, doesn't burn a drop between services, and I've never had to touch the valve train. My SV has around 20k on it, all of which have been pretty much flat out as it doesn't get ridden any other way.... same story as the Hornet. Oh and they are both still on their original clutches.

Cool :cool:

[SV650rules]

Opie oils do Castrol Power 1 4T fully synth 4litre for £32 with free shipping UK mainland, for me that is cheap enough.

[R1ffR4ff]

double post

[R1ffR4ff]

Nah.When I've used up me Motul I'll be buying this<BFG> :D

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20L-Semi-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/121670133634?hash=item1c541ae782:g:vsIAAOSwNSxVcXA L


http://i.imgur.com/OuhN6rO.jpg?1



:rave:

[SV650rules]

Westway are just a distributor of re-packaged fuel and oil, based in a tin shack on Wombourne Enterprise park, not far from Sainsbury's - often drive past it, they seem to have a lot of empty 45 gallon vegetable cooking oil drums stacked outside for some reason LOL . Never trust anyone who re-labels oils with their own stickers, probably all comes out of same huge tank in their yard.

Sorry, wouldn't even put that in my motor mower.

IMHO you don't always get what you pay for, but if it is too cheap it is invariably cr*p.

[R1ffR4ff]

Westway are just a distributor of re-packaged fuel and oil, based in a tin shack on Wombourne Enterprise park, not far from Sainsbury's - often drive past it, they seem to have a lot of empty 45 gallon vegetable cooking oil drums stacked outside for some reason LOL . Never trust anyone who re-labels oils with their own stickers, probably all comes out of same huge tank in their yard.

Sorry, wouldn't even put that in my motor mower.

IMHO you don't always get what you pay for, but if it is too cheap it is invariably cr*p.


I was joking :D

I'll stick to decent brands :winner:

[Stainlessniel]

Think 10W-40 is recommended, don't use car oil as it has friction modifiers which could make clutch slip, also car oil does not have the gearbox additives that you need in bike oil because the engine oil is shared with gearbox.

Sorry I know this is a bit old but did u say 10/40.. Is that definitely for the al7 lol...I'm a bit of a newb at doin things the right way, an am not paying 140 quid from suzuki for oil an filter.
do you happen know the mileage phases it aswell, my last one was 4000, but am at 6500 now.

[maviczap]

Halfords semi synthetic 4 stroke bike oil is what i use and will be perfectly fine for your Sv, under £30.

Don't get het up about oil, just change it regularly

[Stainlessniel]

Cheers, I do 250 mile a week, what would you recommend for an oil change, every 4000?

[maviczap]

Whatever the service interval says, i don't know, as i don't do high miles, so once a year for me. 4000 sounds ok

[Blapper]

As a rule, the shorter the journeys, the shorter the oil change interval. 4K sounds right.

[Craig380]

The shop manual is oil every 3,750 miles and filter every third oil change. At 250 miles per week, that'll be fine.

By the way, Shell Advance AX7 10W40 bike oil is super-cheap on eBay at the moment from reputable suppliers like Opie Oils. £22 delivered for a 4-litre pack. It's a very high-spec oil (API SL and JASO MA2 - some might argue it's too high compared to Suzi's specs) but it's working fine in my own K6.

Robinsons Foundry is still doing genuine Suzuki oil filters at £5.99 too.

[Craig380]

The shop manual is oil every 3,750 miles and filter every third oil change. At 250 miles per week, that'll be fine.

By the way, Shell Advance AX7 10W40 bike oil is super-cheap on eBay at the moment from reputable suppliers like Opie Oils. £22 delivered for a 4-litre pack. It's a very high-spec oil (API SL and JASO MA2 - some might argue it's too high compared to Suzi's specs) but it's working fine in my own K6.

Robinsons Foundry is still doing genuine Suzuki oil filters at £5.99 too.

[Blapper]

FWIW using an oil that has an API newer than the recommendation can be at least not good for your clutch, at worst harmful to your engine.

Mine had the best fully synth Motul in it when I got it which I changed when I got it home but it has taken 3000 miles for the clutch to work as it should.

[Craig380]

FWIW using an oil that has an API newer than the recommendation can be at least not good for your clutch, at worst harmful to your engine.

Mine had the best fully synth Motul in it when I got it which I changed when I got it home but it has taken 3000 miles for the clutch to work as it should.

Fair enough - I've had no problems with the clutch on the Shell stuff for the past 1.5 oil changes.

[Red ones]

Halfords semi synthetic motorcycle oil is OK. It hasn't caused any problems for me in the last 37 oil changes. [emoji846]

[aesmith]

I've used all sorts in the past. I'm pretty sure motorcycle specific oils weren't even available in the late '70s and the '80s. Or if they were then I never saw them stocked. My bikes got "Castrolite" 10W30 or similar if bought specially, or 20W50 as used in the family car if needs must. Later on I used "Agricastrol" that we used in tractor engines, tractor rear ends, chainsaw bar lube, chainsaw two stroke mix - and my bike's engine.

Nowadays with bike specific stuff readily available it makes sense to use it, but I really don't think the world's going to come to an end if non-bike oil is used occasionally.

[Blapper]

It's better than nothing for sure!

[maviczap]

I've used all sorts in the past. I'm pretty sure motorcycle specific oils weren't even available in the late '70s and the '80s. Or if they were then I never saw them stocked. My bikes got "Castrolite" 10W30 or similar if bought specially, or 20W50 as used in the family car if needs must. Later on I used "Agricastrol" that we used in tractor engines, tractor rear ends, chainsaw bar lube, chainsaw two stroke mix - and my bike's engine.

Nowadays with bike specific stuff readily available it makes sense to use it, but I really don't think the world's going to come to an end if non-bike oil is used occasionally.

Castrol Grand Prix was the oil I used in the 80's :p

http://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/images1/360/0713/13/vintage-castrol-grand-prix-motorcycle_360_05b60dce360ff1d4a9264bcbe2f1304e.jp g

[Trev B]

There weren't as many short stroke 4 strokes ( if that makes sense ) in the 70s ans 80s as there are now,maybe the CBX 1000 had a bit to do but nothing like these free reving powerhouses of today,so today's oils are really for today's bikes and this adds to today's bikes as a rule being very reliable !!!

[Craig380]

A bit of thread resurrection - changed the oil & filter on my K6 yesterday. The last filter change was done by the supplying Suzuki dealer as part of the pre-sale service when I bought the bike from them 2 years / 11,000 miles ago.

I ran some ACF50 around the joint between the filter body and the mounting face, left it for 30 minutes, then tried loosening it with double-sided tape wrapped round it to get a better grip: didn't move a millimetre. Tried the leather-belt strap wrench trick: the belt snapped. Twice.

So went to Halfords and got a chain wrench, which started crushing the filter body but just managed to move it a bit. Moved the chain a bit, tried again - this time it cut through the filter case but moved it a bit more. Moved the chain again and this time it came free.

They must employ a gorilla at the Suzi dealer ... the new filter went on tightened by hand only.

[SV650rules]

It is gonna be the rubber seal sticking to mounting face, and the longer filter has been on the worse it will stick. No need to tighten more than hand tight plus half a turn, and put clean oil on seal before fitting.

[Bibio]

The last filter change was done by the supplying Suzuki dealer as part of the pre-sale service when I bought the bike from them 2 years / 11,000 miles ago.



:shock: you do realise that when a filter gets old the filter element stops flowing as much and creates more pressure at which point the internal bypass valve (popper) is forced open sooner than it should be and doing so lets the oil free flow past the filter element, letting dirty unfiltered oil back into the engine.

oil change 3500 miles, filter every second oil change 7000 miles. i personally change the filter for genuine suzuki one every oil change at 3500 miles. they are always on offer at robinsons.

i have never had a problem changing oil filters but i use a cup type filter wrench, they are only a fiver or so.

[Craig380]

oil change 3500 miles, filter every second oil change 7000 miles. i personally change the filter for genuine suzuki one every oil change at 3500 miles.


Fair enough, different strokes ... I'm working by the service manual, oil change every 3,750 miles (6,000km) and a filter change every third oil drop.

The bike's never used for stop/start commuting or town work. I only ride for fun, so the engine's running under more or less ideal conditions all the time (i.e. no short runs, gentle running for the first 5 miles from cold before giving it any beans)

[Bibio]

official service manual says first at 600 miles, second at 4000 miles, 3rd at 7500 miles, fourth at 11000 miles, so as you can see its every 3500 miles. yup the book says change filter at 600 then 11000 which would indicate skip two then replace but its not clear on how often after.

even worse if your 'giving it the beans' after warm up. higher revving for fun rides creates more oil pressure rather than gentle commuting, this will open the popper quicker if the filter cant pass the flow due to being blocked more. higher revving also destroys the 'cleaning' and 'in grade' additives quicker. its the shearing in the gearbox/clutch that destroys oil.

as you say though different strokes...

mind you i hit the limiter a fair bit on my rides so i want max oil flow.

[Chris_SVS]

^As per above, rub some of your fresh oil onto the seal before screwing on the new filter. Stops the seal pinching and potentially splitting before the filter is tight.

Just finished oil and filter change on my K6 as it happens, went smooth enough but the oil should have been changed many miles ago! filter was battered externally but looked alright.

Tis in the bin :) And I now have a whiteboard on the wall with all the relevant service info, it's in front of me every time I start the bike

[Craig380]

official service manual says first at 600 miles, second at 4000 miles, 3rd at 7500 miles, fourth at 11000 miles, so as you can see its every 3500 miles.

Those pesky Europeans and other countries that use kilometers get to go 6,000km between their changes, I refuse to be penalised just because we use Imperial measures over here ;)

Semi-seriously, it would be good if the UK had an oil analysis service aimed at the consumer like they have in the US, where for about a tenner you can get a detailed analysis of the wear patterns in your own engine according to your own type of journeys and riding style. I'd certainly do that once per vehicle, just out of curiosity.

[Bibio]

Semi-seriously, it would be good if the UK had an oil analysis service aimed at the consumer like they have in the US, where for about a tenner you can get a detailed analysis of the wear patterns in your own engine according to your own type of journeys and riding style. I'd certainly do that once per vehicle, just out of curiosity.

we do, they are called miller oils ;)

it tells you nothing though as engines wear through time. stick to 3.5k for the oil and a filter every change and you'll be right. a penny a mile is not going to break the bank.

on the sunday when i get home from a ride i stick money in a jar which helps when it comes to service/tyre/insurance etc.etc time. my running costs are around 10p a mile over and above petrol. raiding the jar for tyres and servicing is not so much a blow on the old wallet ;)

[mep]

Mine was stuck last oil change. Couldn't move it with the correct wrench. Got it loose with a large pair of grips though.