Siezed Abba Stand Fitting

[aesmith]

Hi,

This feels like the most stupid problem I've ever had with a vehicle. The bike was on the Abba stand, using the swing arm removal kit bobbins. Now I find I can't separate the cup from the bobbin, leaving the bike effectively disabled as I can't ride it with those bits sticking out. The bobbins are very prone to rust which I'm sure is a factor here, but I can't remember it being a tight fit when I put them on.

My fallback plan is to cut one or more slots in the cup to see if that allows enough movement to wriggle it free. It could possibly be welded up afterwards. There's not really clearance to use a hacksaw to cut through the bobbin and it's bolt.

Any ideas on how to separate them, preferably without damage?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2805/34051099095_1a01227436_b.jpg
Tony S

[Northern Biker]

Have you tried a bit of heat? If not from a gas blow torch then maybe a hot air gun?

[aesmith]

Not yet, it's on my list. I don't dare use a flame, but I should be able to get it hot to the touch with hot air.

[R1ffR4ff]

If I read you right......

If you can get some,"Plus Gas" releasing fluid and then wrap a rag around the bobbin and use mole-grips after heat ?

Also when trying to remove seized bolts etc always tighten slightly first to try and crack the corrosion seal.

Another great homemade release fluid is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF but I've also used Acetone and old Brake fluid,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CESDxCloCoQ


Asda do an Acetone nail varnish remover that can be used for this and other little jobs on the bike like cleaning areas as Acetone is not has destructive as paint thinners and evaporates quickly.

To prevent this problem for myself I used copper-slip/copper grease on my Rear paddock stand bobbins when I fitted them :smile:

[Bibio]

i have done this and after an hour of repetitive tapping with a hammer and block of wood, i then realised that i had a windygun so jammed a socket on the end and it took seconds :-)

[aesmith]

Cheers. One problem is that the bobbin isn't tight enough to stay still when I turn the cup. So there's no leverage to try and wiggle the cup off. Only a straight pull is possible. Will try the impact wrench, but suspect the bobbin will just spin.

[SV650rules]

I have used 'back-hammer' in the past, engineers use them for pulling dowels out of machinery. need a length of 8 or 10mm 'allthread' (normally sold in metre lengths, even B&Q has it), the dowels will have a thread in the end to screw into, but yours does not have this luxury (unless you drill and tap thread into it). Without a threaded hole you will need to flatten one end of threaded bar and clamp it onto bobbin with vice- grip and then you need a nut and washer and a weight with a hole in it (if you have a 4lb lump hammer drill a hole 'across' head and use that) - put the weight over threaded bar and follow it with washer and nut - it is now possible to slide the weight and use the energy of the weight hitting the nut to pull the bobbin.

[aesmith]

Cheers, that's what I know as a "slide hammer". I was trying to work out how to rig one. However I got fed up with the bike being disabled in this stupid way, so took the Dremel to it this morning. As with so many things it's easier said than done, there's no way for example to hold the Dremel perpendicular as there's something in the way of the body all around. So the cut needs to be at a slight angle. And the start of the cut puts the edge of the disc only a couple of mm away from the anodised footrest assembly. However with the slot cut I was able to wrench the cup side to side and gradually rocking it made it walk off the bobbin.

Now to stop it happening again! If I'm going to reuse those bobbins I need to file them around 1mm smaller, there's no need whatsoever for them to be a snug fit. Much better would be to work out how to source or make alternatives that won't corrode. Some sort of hard plastic would be plenty strong enough.