SL0 Fork Seal Replacement - Me v Garage

[chezza]

Hi Peeps,

Firstly sorry.... I have searched for the answers but havent found what im after in LOTS of threads, so reluctantly opening a new thread.


I need to replace the seal on one of my SL0 forks (will do both). I'm waiting for a quote back from garage to do the Fork Seals and Head Bearings at the same time but out of experience what sort of cost am I looking at coming back - its not main dealer but a local bike garage.


I am interested in doing this myself but was hoping there maybe a howto guide or link to a video somewhere I can take a look at to see how difficult it is - anybody got anything like this ?


Cheers
Gav.

[ophic]

It's generic but I followed the guide from "Delboy's garage" on youtube.

This one, I think: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30

[chezza]

cheers ophic, will take a look.

[Bibio]

i would say its in the middle difficulty of DIY mechanics skills. expect a full day to do the job.

first off you need the tools and without these it can become a difficult job.

Tools:
usual spanner and socket sets
stem locking nut socket
torque wrench
a long drift bar
a long race driver tube
a hammer
long reach allan sockets
seal driver
axle stands and a steel bar to lift the front of the bike clear.
fork oil height tool
dremel or equivalent (or a 4'' grinder with a cutting disc)
to make the job easier a windy gun and compressor

the most difficult parts are removing the bottom race from the lower yoke and the allan bolt from the bottom of the forks.

extras you might need to do.. the fork bushings. sometimes its actually the fork bushings that wear causing slop so the stanchions rattle in the tubes and its not the seals. i have encountered this and after 2 attempts of new seals lasting only 2k miles i changed the bushing which solved the problem. if your stanchions are free of deep scores and rust pits then i would seriously look at the bushing. if your stanchions do have deep scores and rust pits then you will need new or re-chromed stanchions as the damage will just tear the new seals.

i would expect to pay between £150-200 excluding parts from a bike garage. i would not let a car mechanic/garage do the job.

if you dont have the tools or aren't willing to invest in the tools then get a garage to do the job.

[chezza]

Yeah thats quite a list of tools :) - most of which I do not have which might sway the decision.


Thanks though Bibio I appreciate the reply and info !

[Bibio]

thing is about tools to do a job like this, once you have them then thats it and the tools usually cost the same price as the job from a garage. once you have done the job then its another skill set added, like servicing your own callipers.

fork oil needs changed at a max of 20k and even at that the oil is completely fubar which causes wear on the internal bushing.

[Craigg]

fork oil height tool


can you set the fork oil level once the bike has been re-assembled? (obviously with the front off the ground?)

i am not sure i got it right, think i left too much airgap

[ophic]

its tricky because the forks aren't vertical.

[Bibio]

can you set the fork oil level once the bike has been re-assembled? (obviously with the front off the ground?)

i am not sure i got it right, think i left too much airgap

no. you need to set the oil height with the springs out, the forks fully compressed and vertical. for this reason i recommend buying a proper fork oil height tool or making one. at a push you can use a rule and a turkey baster or syringe with some tubing. if using a syringe and can get the tubing straight enough then you can wrap some tape around the tubing at the correct height, this will give you at around 1-2mm difference which is nothing in damper rod forks.

the more oil you put in (reduce the air gap) the more the 'air spring' comes into effect at the bottom of the fork stroke. this can be used to fine tune the forks. for instance.. you have the correct spring rate, oil viscosity and air gap but the forks still bottom out under hard braking. in this instance you would increase the oil height (reduce the air gap) till it stops or at least reduces the bottoming out. dont go mad as it can blow the seals. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD TO TRY AND CORRECT THE LACK OF PROPER SPRING RATE.

remember servicing forks is NOT a one time deal, it needs done at least every 20k miles to keep them in good condition. you would not believe the state of fork oil even after 3k miles let alone 20k. this is why i always recommend silkolene pro fork oil, it lasts and does not change grade much as it heats up plus you can mix different grades to get the viscosity right.

[Craigg]

no. you need to set the oil height with the springs out, the forks fully compressed and vertical. for this reason i recommend buying a proper fork oil height tool or making one. at a push you can use a rule and a turkey baster or syringe with some tubing. if using a syringe and can get the tubing straight enough then you can wrap some tape around the tubing at the correct height, this will give you at around 1-2mm difference which is nothing in damper rod forks.

the more oil you put in (reduce the air gap) the more the 'air spring' comes into effect at the bottom of the fork stroke. this can be used to fine tune the forks. for instance.. you have the correct spring rate, oil viscosity and air gap but the forks still bottom out under hard braking. in this instance you would increase the oil height (reduce the air gap) till it stops or at least reduces the bottoming out. dont go mad as it can blow the seals. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD TO TRY AND CORRECT THE LACK OF PROPER SPRING RATE.

remember servicing forks is NOT a one time deal, it needs done at least every 20k miles to keep them in good condition. you would not believe the state of fork oil even after 3k miles let alone 20k. this is why i always recommend silkolene pro fork oil, it lasts and does not change grade much as it heats up plus you can mix different grades to get the viscosity right.

darn, was hoping there was some way of doing it with just taking the caps off :P

[mep]

Doing the forks can be difficult if it's your first time. Maybe a compromise is to take them off and give them to a mechanic to do (as i have done) and do the head bearings yourself.

[R1ffR4ff]

Doing the forks can be difficult if it's your first time. Maybe a compromise is to take them off and give them to a mechanic to do (as i have done) and do the head bearings yourself.

That's a good idea.A lot of labour cost is getting things on and off a Motorcycle.

[aesmith]

darn, was hoping there was some way of doing it with just taking the caps off :P
Yes you can if you've got some way of sucking the oil out. It won't get it all out but miles better than nothing. Setting the level with the forks installed won't be quite as accurate. Slack off the preload fully, support front of bike with weight just off the wheels, remove fork cap, lower front slowly and remove spacers, washers and springs. Lower front right down so the forks are fully compressed. Now suck the old oil out and replace to the correct level. Worst thing that I find is that pulling the springs out gets oil everywhere. Take care when refitting the fork caps, not to damage the threads.

[chezza]

Christ ! Mine has done 50k now and never had the forks done.


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[chezza]

Well, I opted for the easy way out im afraid - the garage are doing it next week for £160 which I didnt think was too steep; they are doing the headstock bearings aswell at the same time.


My compromise was im doing the calipers myself with the spare set I have.