View Full Version : Slipping Clutch
synXero
19-06-17, 12:42 PM
Afternoon all,
Still enjoying my K5S muchly :smt026 but have begun to lose my rag with the slipping clutch, and want to fix it.
Symptoms / analysis / info:
- Clutch biting point is very very low, almost at full squeeze of clutch lever.
- Bike does not fail to disengage gear via clutch, i.e. it is not moving forward with clutch held in and in gear.
- At high RPMs or at lower RPMs in higher gears, it slips quite dramatically. Full throttle to redline is possible in 1st, maybe in 2nd, but not in 3rd or 4th without noticeable slip.
- Unsurprisingly, it is significantly more noticeable when riding 2-up. Clutch slip when 2-up becomes quite bad really. But maybe the passengers appreciate it :D
- I have not yet tried adjusting the clutch at either end of the cable. I am not perfectly sure how to do so.
- The bike is on 30,080 miles... and I fear previous owner was a bit of a wheelie merchant given condition of sprockets when bought. I have restored the bike quite a lot since I bought it and she's now in good condition, excluding this clutch. At any rate, I don't think it's impossible that the clutch plates will have excessive wear. Can I check, how DIY-friendly is it to do so...?
- I have done around 1200 miles on the bike at a guess. I do not think that the clutch slip has worsened. It's been the same since I got it. To begin with, I didn't mind, but now that the bike doesn't 'feel' that fast anymore, it's progressively more and more noticeable / relevant to riding style. I don't mean to sound like a ****--I just mean that, as normal, when I first got the bike it was seldom anywhere near the top end / high speed.
I'd appreciate a detailed how-to, or a systematic list of what to check in what order.
Thank you all in advance.
CCC.
SheepShagger
19-06-17, 12:51 PM
Google sv650 clutch adjustment, plenty of info.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Red ones
19-06-17, 01:02 PM
See attached image.
Adjust the clutch first before you do anything else.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170619/1dbf288e1149df1b57a17fa1d48cf621.jpg
Google sv650 clutch adjustment, plenty of info.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
this one seems to be about right. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1TC2OybT6o
there is one thing i would do different. the top lever adjuster should be around 5mm from fully 'home' when doing the adjustment. this give a little play if over adjusted. top tip, the SV clutch lever adjuster lock nut likes to work loose so nip it up with pliers.
also that lifter mech in the video is well dry they should be well greased.
dont fuss over the measurement of the lever play as its personal preference for bite point (this is why you leave 5mm on the lever adjuster). as long as the clutch disengages/engages properly then all is well.
if you want to get fully anal about the adjustment then there is also a specified 'dwell angle' on the lifter mech that is set by the correct adjustment of the clutch cable in relation to the lifter mech push rod lever.
synXero
19-06-17, 01:50 PM
Wealth of info here, thanks gents.
Definitely seems like you're all suggesting it's cable related rather than plate related?
R1ffR4ff
19-06-17, 02:06 PM
The,"Clutch Mantra" helped me setup my Clutch on my Curvy,
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54588
Mine wasn't slipping but was hard to get into neutral but the info covers the correct setting up anyway.
HTH :)
clutch slip can only happen with 5 things
1, the lifter mech push rod has no play. Adjust lifter mech or replace
2, seized or partial seized clutch cable. replace clutch cable
3, the wrong type of oil. too many friction modifiers (modern car oil)
4, worn/broken clutch plates or springs. this is rare but it does happen
5, notched clutch basket. this again is rare and more common on curvys
Blapper
19-06-17, 04:50 PM
My money is on 3/. Too few owners understand there is more to oil than 20/50 and the makers name. It's a subject that repays reserch.
SV650rules
19-06-17, 06:12 PM
My money is on 3/. Too few owners understand there is more to oil than 20/50 and the makers name. It's a subject that repays reserch.
+1
Shouldn't use car oil in a bike - especially the 0W-20, 5W-30 'fuel savers' etc which have friction modifiers - SV needs 10W-40 - which not many cars use these days.
synXero
19-06-17, 08:40 PM
Oil wise I'm pretty clued up having owned fast cars for 5+ years. No worries there. I've changed the oil in the bike a few months ago.
That clutch mantra thread / associated video should sort me out I reckon. How many hours work is there in this...? Hopefully I can get some time for it!
SheepShagger
19-06-17, 08:43 PM
Oil wise I'm pretty clued up having owned fast cars for 5+ years. No worries there. I've changed the oil in the bike a few months ago.
That clutch mantra thread / associated video should sort me out I reckon. How many hours work is there in this...? Hopefully I can get some time for it!
Less than half hour.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
top tip, when taking the gear selector off the splined shaft mark the shaft with something (felt pen, scribe) so it marks the position. that way you know exactly where to put it back.
R1ffR4ff
19-06-17, 10:40 PM
Oil wise I'm pretty clued up having owned fast cars for 5+ years. No worries there. I've changed the oil in the bike a few months ago.
That clutch mantra thread / associated video should sort me out I reckon. How many hours work is there in this...? Hopefully I can get some time for it!
Max an hour or well less 2nd time.Just take the plastic side cover off and do the adjustments at the gear lever end.This is THE most important area.This also includes resetting the gear shift leaver height to your foot/boots.Me got big feet for my height(Size 11) and me always wear the boots.
Also I had to take off the Bright nut on the shifter arm and clean the whole area with Carb/Brake cleaner and the secure the nut and washer as it was a little loose.As it's low torque I just used my old knowledge e,g decent feel hand-tight using the knuckle of my socket wrench and lubed with lithium grease.
Although recently new to the SV family of Motorcycles the clutch and gear-change set-up is quite sensitive inasmuch as it needs getting right but once it is it's superbly slick.When you get the bottom area right you can use the Clutch lever adjuster as a final tweak but the Bottom end MUST be right first.
R1ffR4ff
19-06-17, 11:25 PM
top tip, when taking the gear selector off the splined shaft mark the shaft with something (felt pen, scribe) so it marks the position. that way you know exactly where to put it back.
+10 :)
synXero
20-06-17, 10:07 AM
Thankya thankya thankya. I think I'll have a go this evening if it only takes an hour!
Bike is relatively hard to get into neutral too, so I think you all may be right and it'll just be cables. I suppose if it doesn't fix it, at least I tried the free option first!
Blapper
20-06-17, 11:54 AM
So you know your SH from your SM eh? Good. Although I don't know what owning a fast car has to do with knowledge of oil...
Proper clutch adjust takes an hour first time, but stripping/cleaning/greasing (moly grease) lift mech adds another hour. All quicker with practice.
synXero
21-06-17, 08:30 AM
I only meant that I've been doing maintenance on high spec cars for a few years now!
Anyway, I set about some clutch adjustment yesterday. It's a nice job to do, very simple really, and bikes are so lovely to work on!!
Neutral shift has been improved 500%, wow. It was worth it just for that. Clutch slip seems to be gone, I think, at least at moderate RPM on the way in this morning. I haven't tried a high RPM fourth gear pull etc. yet. But low RPM wide throttle pulls in third seem immeasurably improved, and second gear can be WOT to redline without slipping, it seems. I'm hesitant because there may still be just a little bit. Also I think the cable is at the end of its life for sure. I feel like both adjusters are at their maximum, or near enough. I presume replacing the clutch cable isn't particularly difficult...?
Stuff down there was DIRTY:
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/gtkdsn/SV650/FBD70C9D-4AF4-474D-90DC-428BF1DBB005_zps81xtbziw.jpg
Adjusted and cleaned up as much as I could manage:
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/gtkdsn/SV650/9D827B62-39E9-4991-82E0-C11AC2C84F4E_zpshg6mscc4.jpg
Gratuitous shot of my lovely new brake discs :D
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/gtkdsn/SV650/2C737970-3121-421A-9B7E-C64D1309AEBD_zps8arcp7ij.jpg
And one clean(...er), happier Suzi:
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/gtkdsn/SV650/6F54FC31-1A35-44A4-BE46-E92FFD8B5DA4_zps0vddmh3c.jpg
Thanks for all your help gents.
R1ffR4ff
21-06-17, 08:51 AM
I haven't changed the clutch cable on mine yet.I have a new one to go in but I've done loads on my other bikes over the years and use the same old trick on cables.
I disconnect at both ends but don't pull the cable out.Then I tape the new cable to the old cable using some masking tape/adhesive tape.Then pull the old cable up through and out of the top and guide the new cable through.That way I never mess up the cable routing.
The Cable routing on my old CX500s could be a real nightmare.
HTH :)
synXero
21-06-17, 10:31 AM
Absolutely, that's how I've always done it on bicycles, I figured it would work on the SV too!
Do the cables come with the ends already fixed, or is it a case of buying a length of cable, fixing the ends, etc...? edit: I have just read a few little guides. Sounds easy. I think I'll get the cable ordered and do this one day when I have a free day to play with a bunch of maintenance jobs.
As I say, I think my bike is showing evidence of having had a hard life for the last two years or so. I shall restore her to true glory though! Albeit gradually.
Next on the list, after tail tidy, is probably rear discs and pads actually... They look a bit grotty.
R1ffR4ff
21-06-17, 10:40 AM
The one I bought of eBay is ready to fit for my 1999 curvy.I use a mix of 3-in-1 oil and a bit of moly as a pre-lube and let the new cable hang in my garage until it drips out of the bottom.
Seems ok,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-SV-650-99-10-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Clutch-Cable-OEM-Standard/401107516013?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
and I've never had anything but good parts and service from Wemoto,
http://www.wemoto.com/
but I'll take the old one off and keep it as a spare under the seat methinks.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/gtkdsn/SV650/9D827B62-39E9-4991-82E0-C11AC2C84F4E_zpshg6mscc4.jpg
that lifter mech is faaaaarrrrrr too dry, get some moly grease in there (just pack it in with your finger) even chain lube will do. if you dont the mech will last maybe a month. the shield with the tab sticking out in the middle of the mech has ball bearings in there and the worm gear is made of cheesium. a dry mech will also cause notching/sticking. if your mech give out you will have no clutch just like a broken cable.
Red ones
21-06-17, 05:35 PM
I wish my mech were as dirty as that one. I can't see mine for oil!!!
At 30,000 miles I'd guess the clutch cable is fine but more likely the clutch lifter is worn, especially if it's that dry.
SV650rules
21-06-17, 06:23 PM
On the subject of clutches, on the AL7 they have replaced the ball screw thingy mechanism and clutch is either cam or rack + pinion operated ? The operating lever is horizontal (see attached photo). Only time will tell if this is an improvement, but it does mean the operating stuff is well protected.
synXero
21-06-17, 06:50 PM
Bibio - no grease here sadly :( but I doused it in chain lube. I figured it could do no harm. I am hoping this extends the remainder of its probably miserable life, lolz. Gear shift functionality is A1 now though so I'm happy for the mean time. Shift is light and smooth. Beforehand it was stubborn. Perhaps lubing that mech up has contributed more than I had considered. I shall definitely look out for any returning stubbornness though.
I also thought the spring felt/looked fairly deteriorated. Wonder if it would be worth just replacing the entire suite...
return spring looks fine. if the clutch is working ok then leave alone. the mechs are fairly cheep, think they are about £45 so no harm in replacing for peace of mind. what ever you do DONT take an old mech apart, they are a nigglymare to get back together as the metal cage holds the ball bearings and when they get old they go loose in the cage then when you take it apart they fall out all over the place.
synXero
21-06-17, 09:05 PM
Hahaha, noted. I can well imagine.
grease is just as important as tools when motorcycles are concerned. get a 500g tub of basic white bearing grease (dont buy moly e.g. cv grease), they cost about £5. it should last you a minimum of 10 years. if you feel flush and fancy a nice tool then get one of those pushbike mini grease guns and fill it from the tub, this stops you putting dirty fingers into the grease.
Blapper
22-06-17, 10:27 AM
I am struggling to keep quiet about Bibio's last post there - I did strip my lifter fully, it isn't hard. Thoroughly clean it with solvent so you can assess the wear then coat it all with MOLY GREASE so that the surfaces are better protected when the balls skid. Assembly is then easy because the balls don't drop out as the grease holds them n place during assembly.
If you saw the pix I posted, it showed little wear so I refitted it and it is still going strong and is super silky even with shorty levers.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8508/28647793683_f1ced21d4e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KDvqZi)Clutch lifting mech.-4 (https://flic.kr/p/KDvqZi) by Andrew Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/spraynpray/), on Flickr
...this stops you putting dirty fingers into the grease.
but that's the fun bit :thumbdown:
SV650rules
22-06-17, 02:47 PM
MOLY GREASE so that the surfaces are better protected when the balls skid. Assembly is then easy because the balls don't drop out as the grease holds them n place during assembly.
If you saw the pix I posted, it showed little wear so I refitted it and it is still going strong and is super silky even with short levers
MOLY is the best extreme pressure lubricant ever except maybe tungsten disulphide - IMHO both are ideal for this application.
yes moly is the recommended grease in this application but if your going to buy just one grease (OP aint got any) then simple white bearing grease has a lot more uses around the bike. headstock bearings, swingarm bearings, linkage bearings, wheel bearings, lever pivots etc.etc. and at a push can be used where moly is recommended except for constant velocity joints and since a motorcycle doesn't have a CV joint (excluding a few old shaft drive bikes) then happy days. whats the point in buying a tub of moly grease when your only going to use it once in a blue moon.
each to their own and all that :-)
SV650rules
22-06-17, 04:51 PM
yes moly is the recommended grease in this application but if your going to buy just one grease (OP aint got any) then simple white bearing grease has a lot more uses around the bike. headstock bearings, swingarm bearings, linkage bearings, wheel bearings, lever pivots etc.etc. and at a push can be used where moly is recommended except for constant velocity joints and since a motorcycle doesn't have a CV joint (excluding a few old shaft drive bikes) then happy days. whats the point in buying a tub of moly grease when your only going to use it once in a blue moon.
each to their own and all that :-)
IMHO Moly is the best lubricant for anything that is made of metal and moves! Those tenacious slippery little flakes adhere to metal and don't get pushed out of the way like lesser lubricants. Moly is the reason CV joints now last the life of a vehicle - they used to be classed as a 'wear item' that would need to be replace, but not any more.
I can remember back to my engineering apprenticeship days ( I have a long, long memory) when the company I worked for used a material called 'Nylatron' (which is Nylon impregnated with MSO2) for sliding linear and also rotating low speed bearings, it was used in heavy duty applications where really high performance, toughness and long life was required, you can also get Teflon impregnated with Moly.
I would agree that using moly in higher speed lightly loaded bearings can result in rollers or balls 'skidding' due to moly being 'too slippery' - and this can cause flat spots on rollers.
But having said that, I have used gearbox molyslip in every car I ever owned and never had a gearbox problem, even on a couple of Honda Jazz cars that are notorious for developing noisy bearings in the gearbox - my Jazz's both did well over 100,000 miles without the problem, where others on forum said theirs became noisy as low as 40,000 miles, requiring expensive gearbox removal and replacement of bearings.
i would not say LM grease is a lesser lubrication grease and i would never use CV grease in wheel bearings. having said that i dont think anybody greases wheel bearings any more due to them coming pre packed. as long as it lubricates and dont wash out then its a case of choose your poison. i have been using ACF-50 grease the past cppl years and it seems ok (even on electrical contacts), if a weird colour. personally you cant go wrong with simple white LM grease as a general purpose grease.
Blapper
22-06-17, 05:44 PM
Agreed. It's like oil - some is better than none, even if it isn't the perfect choice.
synXero
22-06-17, 10:15 PM
And where is one best advised to buy such greasey goodness?
any car factors should sell it. be sure you ask for white bearing/multi-purpose grease or they will give you the black shizz. even Halfords sell the stuff, comma multi-purpose grease
yes i know its a semi translucent amber colour but its commonly called white grease.
i'm sure i have seen it in asda as well.
R1ffR4ff
23-06-17, 09:35 AM
The manuals state for most of these jobs standard Multipurpose grease.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/comma-multi-purpose-grease-500g
I use Moly Grease as well at high usage/pressure points.
As pointed out virtually any lubricant on these parts is better than letting them get dry and or dirty/clogged up.I've also used GT85
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-lube/gt-85-bike-lubricant-400ml
as a cleaner and it in itself is a great lubricant.You can even use GT85 to re-waterproof gloves/boots etc.The PTFE in it repels water superbly.
HTH :)
PS
Just been in Wilkos Supermarket and they do their own MP grease for £3.50 a tub.I've used their Brake fluid and oil for years.All been decent for the price.
Also they are doing 250 ml of RedX/Petrol treatment for £2.00 a bottle so grabbed a couple :)
But having said that, I have used gearbox molyslip in every car I ever owned and never had a gearbox problem, even on a couple of Honda Jazz cars that are notorious for developing noisy bearings in the gearbox - my Jazz's both did well over 100,000 miles without the problem, where others on forum said theirs became noisy as low as 40,000 miles, requiring expensive gearbox removal and replacement of bearings.
yup agreed. just dont stick any of their oil additives in your bike engine, they are not designed for wet clutch. got a ducati with a dry clutch then bash on :-)
R1ffR4ff
23-06-17, 01:35 PM
I've been running a bit of moly added to my oil in my SV650 for over a thousand miles.No clutch slip.Molybdenum Disulphide does not adhere to the none metallic friction plates in a ,"Wet-Clutch".
I ran both my Honda CX500s on Molyslip for years and still no Wet-Clutch slip.
There are oil additives that can cause Wet-Clutch slip but Molybdenum Disulphide is not one of them.
Even top engine oil makers add a small amount to their oils now.
HTH :)
SV650rules
23-06-17, 01:44 PM
I've been running a bit of moly added to my oil in my SV650 for over a thousand miles.No clutch slip.Molybdenum Disulphide does not adhere the none metallic friction plates in a ,"Wet-Clutch".
I ran both my Honda CX500s on Molyslip for years and still no Wet-Clutch slip.
There are oil additives that can cause Wet-Clutch slip but Molybdenum Disulphide is not one of them.
Even top engine oil makers add a small amount to their oils now.
HTH :)
Agree, looked it up and liqui-moly say as long as moly not more than 2% of oil then OK - (20ml per litre) this equates to about about 60ml in an SV
https://products.liqui-moly.com/additives/motorbike-oil-additive.html
http://www.experimentalaircraft.info/articles/engine-lubrication-6.php
and just for interest
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/mc-garage-video-wet-clutch-vs-dry-clutch
R1ffR4ff
23-06-17, 01:51 PM
Agree, looked it up and both liqui-moly and Molyslip makers say as long as moly not more than 2% of oil then OK - this equates to about about 60ml in an SV
I've put two 30ml shots of my own moly/oil mix in my SV650 but when taken into the overall amount of oil I reckon it's within what you have posted.You don't need a lot and me engine is as smooth as silk and no slippage even under very heavy incline loads.
I've twice been over the North Yorkshire Moors on a couple of different routes and they put the bike well under heavy load test with some very steep inclines in the places I go and the engine power and torque have been faultless.
Also went up to,"Lord Stones" cafe last week and again some of the roads will test any Motorcycle :)
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Lord+Stones+Country+Park/@54.4137496,-1.1657371,12.33z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x487ec1db7c2e3865:0x200dbf9aaa429 1b6!8m2!3d54.419772!4d-1.1933174
In fact this SV is just a great big EFFing Joy to ride :smt060
I've been running a bit of moly added to my oil in my SV650 for over a thousand miles.No clutch slip.Molybdenum Disulphide does not adhere to the none metallic friction plates in a ,"Wet-Clutch".
I ran both my Honda CX500s on Molyslip for years and still no Wet-Clutch slip.
There are oil additives that can cause Wet-Clutch slip but Molybdenum Disulphide is not one of them.
Even top engine oil makers add a small amount to their oils now.
HTH :)
might not adhere to the friction plates but it will to the disc plates.
i very much doubt that motorcycle oil makers add moly to their oil. zddp yes but not molly. with all motorcycles now having a catalytic converter the motorcycle oil makers are being forced to reduce and eventually remove the zddp from their oils and are using nano technology instead. its not a good time to go buying new formula oils for motorcycles till they have been fully tested, guess who the testers are.. its the punter e.g. us.
R1ffR4ff
23-06-17, 02:34 PM
might not adhere to the friction plates but it will to the disc plates.
Years of use and no clutch slip with Moly.
yes but you more than likely understand its uses and dont use too much. other readers might see this and think hey that sounds good, nip down to their local halfords and buy a can of molyslip and dump it in the engine then wonder why their clutch slips like a hot knife through butter.
to be safe and sure dont use additives in your oil unless you know exactly how they work and how much to use. motorcycle engine oils contain all the additive packages you could want for use in a wet clutch, gearbox combined engine. the secret is changing the oil at the recommended intervals and keeping it topped up between them. only oil additive i would recommend that people use is a flush every 3rd-4th oil change just to stop the gumming in the piston rings which is the major cause of cylinder wear.
R1ffR4ff
23-06-17, 02:58 PM
I have ruined an engine using an engine,"Oil Flush".I will NEVER use or recommend one again.RedX is an UCL(Upper Cylinder Lubricant) and keeps the rings from,"Gumming up" and carbon build up down so defeats the need for any oil-flushing in my experience and if an engine is in that bad a state it needs stripping and correctly servicing.
My 2 cents.
I have ruined an engine using an engine,"Oil Flush".I will NEVER use or recommend one again.RedX is an UCL(Upper Cylinder Lubricant) and keeps the rings from,"Gumming up" and carbon build up down so defeats the need for any oil-flushing in my experience and if an engine is in that bad a state it needs stripping and correctly servicing.
My 2 cents.
you never ruined it it was probably gummed up to the point that the rings were seized and the bore was feked due to not having the proper engine oil changes, not to mention the gumming in the big ends etc.etc. this happens a lot and the result is usually an engine that starts to spew black smoke out the exhaust and knock like a police man at the door as the gumming was the only thing keeping it oil tight so the end user blames the flush. so yes a warning is in order.. dont flush old uncared for engines.
but as you say prevention is better than cure.
R1ffR4ff
23-06-17, 03:23 PM
you never ruined it it was probably gummed up to the point that the rings were seized and the bore was feked due to not having the proper engine oil changes, not to mention the gumming in the big ends etc.etc. this happens a lot and the result is usually an engine that starts to spew black smoke out the exhaust and knock like a police man at the door as the gumming was the only thing keeping it oil tight so the end user blames the flush. so yes a warning is in order.. dont flush old uncared for engines.
but as you say prevention is better than cure.
The engines was ruined by the flush.It removed needed built up sludge around the big-end shells.This can happen with very high mileage motorcycles.
I will never use an,"Oil Flushing" agent again in any motor.I will and have however used cheap engine oil and quick repeat changes to clean out engines.This was much safer and worked.
YMMV :)
Blapper
24-06-17, 07:52 AM
You can't beat frequent - even early - oil change (period). I'll never use any friction modifier in a wet clutch motor. My '78 Bonnie with a MAP Cycle dry clutch? Yep, it's in there.
That video was only about 50% accurate IMHO. 10K? Grabby? Noise regs? Yeah, right. I call B.S.
SV650rules
04-07-17, 02:38 PM
I've put two 30ml shots of my own moly/oil mix in my SV650 but when taken into the overall amount of oil I reckon it's within what you have posted.You don't need a lot and me engine is as smooth as silk and no slippage even under very heavy incline loads.
I've twice been over the North Yorkshire Moors on a couple of different routes and they put the bike well under heavy load test with some very steep inclines in the places I go and the engine power and torque have been faultless.
Also went up to,"Lord Stones" cafe last week and again some of the roads will test any Motorcycle :)
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Lord+Stones+Country+Park/@54.4137496,-1.1657371,12.33z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x487ec1db7c2e3865:0x200dbf9aaa429 1b6!8m2!3d54.419772!4d-1.1933174
In fact this SV is just a great big EFFing Joy to ride :smt060
I added 50ml of Molyslip to my AL7 over a week ago and it has since been tested on some of Shropshires finest hills - no problem.
Many thanks @ R1ffR4ff, I would never have risked putting it in if not for your input.
R1ffR4ff
04-07-17, 05:54 PM
QUOTE=SV650rules;3072484]I added 50ml of Molyslip to my AL7 over a week ago and it has since been tested on some of Shropshires finest hills - no problem.
Many thanks @ R1ffR4ff, I would never have risked putting it in if not for your input.[/QUOTE]
I've now done over 1500 miles on my SV over a 1,000 of them with some moly on the engine.Molybdenum disulphide is not a friction modifier.It just uses the oil as a transport mechanism without affecting the oil.
There's some very heavy industry that uses it in conditions that far exceed those in our engines :)
This is just one example of info on it,
https://vacaero.com/information-resources/the-heat-treat-doctor/1441-dry-lubricants-for-vacuum-service.html
I'm going to buy some of that dry spray version you have mentioned and try it on my chain instead of the Moly/Oil mix I'm using :)
SV650rules
05-07-17, 10:28 AM
Not sure how dry moly would work on an 'O' ring chain, or even if it is recommended.
I use Wynns PTFE clear chain spray on mine (also on the car as I have found that if I spray chain lube on brake pipes and pipe unions and other stuff like rubber bushings (and even rusty metal bits) under the car it sticks like proverbial 'sh!t to a blanket' and is a lot less messy than brushing on underseal and it seems to do a better job, it is also 'rubber friendly' so wont affect pipes and suspension bushings.
I have found 'The Range' household knicknacks shops sell all sorts of car and bike / motorbike lubes etc at good prices.
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