View Full Version : Upgraded rear shock..
LeeSv650
31-07-17, 07:52 PM
What shocks are on ebay at the moment which would be a direct fit upgrade on the factory shock.. ideally in the UK and under £100
DougieG
31-07-17, 08:05 PM
ZZR1400 I have one on mine and it's great
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LeeSv650
31-07-17, 08:36 PM
Bit tatty looking aren't they.. Is that kind of what to expect?
Grim-Lock
31-07-17, 08:37 PM
Seconded as Dougie, great shock for the larger lads and direct swap with kawa lower bolt and a few washers to shim it snug on pointies
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LeeSv650
31-07-17, 08:42 PM
What about for lighter lads?
DougieG
31-07-17, 08:47 PM
Think zx6r and zx10r shocks also fit as well as older gsxrs and they are not as heavily sprung as the zzr1400. I'm sure someone did a table of bikes with comparable parts?!
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keep saving. you can get a new yss shock for £290 delivered to your door.
LeeSv650
01-08-17, 07:27 AM
Ok I'm going with your recommendation Bibio.. you seem to know your stuff. I managed to find a YSS one on ebay for £265, delivered... so with that, coupled with the new linear springs and 10w silkolene oil I've ordered.. I'm really hoping to have a smoother rider.. also intend to do the TPS mod, which i guess will reduce the jerkiness.
when you order it remember to tell them what weight you are so they put the correct spring rate on.
LeeSv650
01-08-17, 12:14 PM
You mean for the linears?.. yep did that
no.. for the rear shock. it needs to be sprung for your weight. when you order the shock you need to tell then what weight you are so they can fit the correct spring.
...may I 'jack this thread a bit, and ask if Fox double clicker is currently installed on a 99 curvy, can I expect to fit it onto an 03 pointy S...???...
...I understand I will have to replace the spring with the one that came with the shock, as it is currently sprung for a 300 lb rider...:p...
...may I 'jack this thread a bit, and ask if Fox double clicker is currently installed on a 99 curvy, can I expect to fit it onto an 03 pointy S...???...
...I understand I will have to replace the spring with the one that came with the shock, as it is currently sprung for a 300 lb rider...:p...
yes as its the same fitment but the curvy shock is longer so the rear of the bike will be slightly higher.
LeeSv650
01-08-17, 06:34 PM
The shop i got it from didn't say i had to specify my weight?.. i got it from bandit rob on ebay.. its the one with the red spring
might be why it was cheaper as it looks like it has a progressive spring. the ones from firefox racing looks like you can specify the spring rate.
yes as its the same fitment but the curvy shock is longer so the rear of the bike will be slightly higher.
...that could be good...thank you for the information...
...I had noted the specs on the curvy vs pointy shock were 3mm different and wondered what the effect might be...
...I might start stripping the track bike with that information...I was considering just selling it as is if the parts I wanted off it ( Fox shock and GSXR front end) would not fit...
...now I shall have an opportunity to tear down a bike w/o worrying aboot getting it back together again...:cool:
LeeSv650
02-08-17, 06:50 AM
Bibio.. if it is a progressive spring/one size fits all shock, as i now suspect.. is it going to be much improvement over the stock one?
maviczap
02-08-17, 07:57 AM
Anything is better than the stock shock.
My hagon has a progressive spring, the difference between that and stock are night and day.
Much better damping and control, that's what a good shock is about.
yes even with a progressive spring it will be an improvement. the difference between the curvy and pointy is that the pointy has a rising linkage so sort of acts like a progressive spring anyway.
fit the shock, set the static sag then check the rider sag.
Can SV1000 shocks bolt right into the 650 (both gens)? I say that as Maxton were really quite open with me and advised the SV1000 shock is pretty bloody good from stock, the spring is just meant for a heavier rider.
I say this as it'd be an even cheaper alternative for those wanting to save a few quid.
the SV1k front and rear is good they just need fettled properly. trouble is the front end is not bling bling so people change them out for USD. the USD is neither better/worse than the RWU as it has almost identical cartridges inside them.
as for the rear shock i'm led to believe that the SV1k undertray is different to accommodate the piggyback rez.
LeeSv650
04-08-17, 06:37 PM
Ok so I've fitted the the yss rear shock.. and k-tech linear front spring, 10w oil. Now need to play around with the rear shock.. I'm wondering what the preset settings are before I start playing around with it.. would it best for me to take it to a garage like Steve Jordans, who offer a ride in service
DougieG
04-08-17, 06:42 PM
Yes best 30 40 quid you can spend getting it set up for you
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LeeSv650
04-08-17, 07:02 PM
Its £70 at the place nearest me
DougieG
04-08-17, 07:04 PM
Still worth it but maybe shop around for a bit cheaper
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save your money. setting things up is easy (better with two people)
lift the rear till the wheel is off the ground then take a measurement from somewhere on the rear of the swingarm where the axle goes in and to somewhere on the tail bodywork (put a piece of tape somewhere and draw a line on it as a datum). write down the measurement with the wheel off the ground. take the bike off the support/stand and sit it upright giving the rear a little bounce. take another measurement using the same datums and write it down. take the second figure away from the first figure which now gives you the static sag. your static sag for the road should be between around the 10mm. if not then just wind the preload adjuster up or down till you reach the 10mm difference.
stick a cabletie round the one of the fork stanchions so it can slide up and down fairly easily but still stay at a given place and slide it down to the dust seal.
go for a ride then check the cabletie afterwords and adjust the fork preload adjusters depending on where the cabletie ends up. full compression of the forks is around 20mm from bottom of the lower yoke clamps, you want to be around another 10-15mm below this so an overall 30-35mm from the bottom of the yoke clamp.
keep an eye on your tyre wear for telltale signs of rebound. look at the directional rotation of your tyre then look at the groves (sipes) if the leading edge of the sipes is eroding you need to increase your rebound (turn adjuster more to H) if the leading edge is creating a lip you need to back off your rebound (turn the rebound adjuster to the S). only move the adjusters 1-2 clicks at a time.
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