Buying a used SV650 - find a mechanic [Archive] - SV650.org

korre

08-08-17, 11:45 PM

Hi All,

This is my first post after spending some time on here as a guest. I've tried the search and am not sure this has been asked before.

I am looking to buy a used SV650 as my first bike if/when I pass my DAS in two weeks time. This is based purely on the amount of recommendations it gets as a suitable new riders bike. I guess I should really sit on one before confirming for sure, but I guess I'll get that opportunity when I go view one. Other choices were XJ6, fazer or bandit (again all based on recommendation). I have yet to sit on a motorbike!

So, I am looking to spend between £1.5-£2k and would prefer a naked (although they seem hard to find), although the s with upper fairing only looks great too. Also post 2003 (believe they are referred to as pointy).

My biggest concern about buying privately is that I have zero bike experience and have no idea what to look for. I could google a generic list, but am concerned I would not do it justice and end up with a lemon. My question is, does anyone know of a service like the AA/RAC do for cars (they will go and check the car fully), but for motorcycles? Or are there any SV650 enthusiasts/mechanics in the Farnborough/Fleet/Camberley area who would be willing to help me out? I guess I would like someone who knows their stuff about bikes/SV650s to accompany me when I purchase the bike and guide me through the checks and owning an SV650 themselves knows what to look out for.

Failing that if anyone is local and wouldn't mind showing me around their bike and what I need to check that would be great too.

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!

embee

09-08-17, 09:21 PM

What a great request, most sensible. I really hope someone in your area can help you out.

korre

09-08-17, 09:27 PM

Thanks Embee, I've got my fingers crossed!

DomP

09-08-17, 09:41 PM

If I was near I'd love to help, I'm not saying I'm an expert but I've done enough home mechanics both on cars and my bikes to be of use. I'm sure someone on here will help you out, it's a great forum. Failing that we could give you some pointers if you go to view on your own.

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Bibio

09-08-17, 10:44 PM

my advice is buy one that is standard and as few owners as possible. look for telltale signs of dropping/crashing by looking at the bar ends for roughness, the rear brake and gear change levers for bent/replaced, exhaust for scratches, scars on the frame/plastics/tank and general wear and tear. go have a look at some nice unmolested clean examples in showrooms to get an idea of what your looking for.

mini indicators are usually bodged with wiring them up. check the ignition lock for smoothness.

most of all though never ever take the owners word for anything. its rare that people tell the truth when selling vehicles.

most SV's will have been dropped or crashed at some point as they are a new rider bike.

korre

10-08-17, 12:32 AM

Thanks Bibio, really helpful advice!

In terms of maintenance is there certain things to check e.g. a car might need its cambelt doing every 40k miles and oil every 10k. Things that pop into mind from reading around:
- How often should chain/sprockets be changed and is there an easy way for me to tell if it's nearing replacement/needs it? I think I've seen on the forum it's a relatively cheap fix (£150), but guess it's something to negotiate.
- Break pads/discs - are these an easy/cheap fix? I guess on inspection I'm just looking for thick pads, although I am not sure what to look for on the disc
- I have read about a camchain tensioner issue that causes ticking noises - is that an immediate no go. How expensive is the repair?
- Valve check - when should this be done?
- Do I need to check inside the fuel tank for rust?

Is there anything else I should look out for that are common problems? I'm still hoping someone lives locally and might be able to accompany me!

Thanks!

Craig380

10-08-17, 08:09 AM

As per Bibio's advice, look for the most standard bike you can find (i.e. still has the original Suzuki big black plastic indicators, etc).

Don't overlook bikes at dealerships. SVs are often taken as part-exchange, and so the dealers are keen to move them on, so they're often not much more expensive than a private sale. This is how I bought mine, from a Suzuki dealer 20 miles away from me. It came with both keys, full service & MOT history with all the receipts to prove it, manuals, and the dealer did a full service and valve check pre-sale.

Dealing with your questions in order:

-- Suzuki's service schedule is that the bike should have an oil change every 3,500 miles and a new oil filter at every third oil change

-- A worn chain & sprockets is easy to spot. Chain: at the back of the rear sprocket at the 3 o'clock position, grab a chain link between thumb and forefinger, and try and pull it off the sprocket. If you are able to lift the chain off the sprocket so you see daylight under the chain, the chain needs replacing. Also, look at the rear sprocket: the teeth should look like a mountain with both sides of each tooth having an even 'slope' to the summit. If the teeth are 'hooked' - i.e. concave on one side - the sprockets need replacing as a pair, and the chain will too.

-- Brake discs & pads: you can see if there is meat left on the pads easily just by looking. Worn discs are spotted by feeling the outer edge and rim of the disc. If there is a 'lip' at the edge that you can feel with your fingertip, the disk is worn. They can be replaced, it's just a bargaining tool

-- Camchain tensioners were only really a problem on the pre-03 bikes (curvies). The pointies got a revised tensioner which is pretty much bulletproof and very rarely causes any trouble.

-- The factory recommendation for a valve check is every 4 years or 15,000 miles. However, SVs are well known for their robust valve gear: it hardly ever needs any adjustment providing that the owner keeps the oil level topped up and the oil is changed as per the service schedule. And of course, that's the bit that is hard to prove when buying a used bike. But if you find a decent bike, you'll probably only ever have to check the valves once.

-- Fuel tank rust: I'm going to stick my neck out here and say that fuel tank rust is not a problem on UK bikes. Owners in the US go on about it ALL the time, but that's because the petrol they have over there is crap. Unless the bike has been standing with the filler cap open, it is unlikely you will need to worry about it.

In conclusion, SVs are popular bikes and there are plenty around so you can afford to be picky. Don't rush to buy one, there will always be another good one for sale. Good luck with your DAS

korre

10-08-17, 10:23 AM

Thanks Craig380, that's another really helpful response! I definitely feel a lot more confident buying a used bike on my own than I did a few days ago.

I have called a few dealers and given my price range (£1.5k-2k) they have said I am unlikely to be able to get one from them as they wouldn't take bikes that old. So it looks like a private sale is my only option at the moment.

My hunt continues, I will keep you updated and if anyone local does see this, feel free to say hi :D

Craig380

10-08-17, 02:33 PM

I have called a few dealers and given my price range (£1.5k-2k) they have said I am unlikely to be able to get one from them as they wouldn't take bikes that old. So it looks like a private sale is my only option at the moment.

Just keep an eye out, I bought my 06 plate K6S from a solus Suzuki dealer in June 2015, one owner, FSH, 7,500 miles, it was listed at £2,200, I got it for £2,000 cash.

They often come in as part-exchanges against new bikes ...

Andy Mc

10-08-17, 03:02 PM

Hi Korre

I am also a novice at biking, bought a 2010 K9 naked from a dealer a few weeks ago, never sat on one either but read so many good things about them so just got one, they delivered it to my house at a charge of course, but the chap that delivered it was awesome, he explained he was an ex Kawasaki mechanic and gave me a few pointers:

start bike up, wait for the temperature to reach optimum level (think it was 104c) and wait for the fan to kick in, then watch the temperature come down and settle, so that's checking the cooling works etc.. also listen for any knocking noises at same time

Valve clearance he said mine should be checked at about 24k, its currently on 17k (but I am not 100% as there are other comments above on that)

forks - checked for any oil on the forks to see if they were leaking.

chain - same as mentioned above

breaks - as above

checked all electronics ie: horn, indicators, hazard lights, break lights etc..

hope my little contribution helps if you cant find someone local

Sir Trev

10-08-17, 03:04 PM

I have called a few dealers and given my price range (£1.5k-2k) they have said I am unlikely to be able to get one from them as they wouldn't take bikes that old.

What a pile of smelly stuff. Bigger dealers are likely to offer derisory px deals on tatty older machines but ones in reasonable nick will often be taken in. What they may choose not to do is sell them on themselves, using a broker or passing them on to smaller traders. Sounds like you need to widen your search away from shiny big showrooms and you may have more luck. Try looking through biketrader.co.uk and see if anything pops up in your price range close(ish) by and go from there.

Chris_SVS

10-08-17, 03:11 PM

Quite a fan of autotrader/biketrader, my SV came from Derby, even with paying a man in a van to deliver it was under budget and cheaper than flying over / riding to a boat

korre

10-08-17, 04:57 PM

Thanks Andy Mc - very helpful.

Sir Trev - my current filters are nationwide, less than £2500 (in case I can haggle a bike down from £2200 to £2000) and age greater than 2003 (so I can get a pointy). This should hopefully pick up any new bikes that get listed, nothing on there is tempting me yet. I should probably filter on blue too as this is the colour I want, but kept it open just in case another colour has a good deal.

Mod 2 isn't until 24th August, so I have lots of time to find one!

markh

10-08-17, 09:02 PM

Korre, don't lose hope. My 2000 SV650S cost me £1500 and I've ridden that thing to Belgium and back, across the south of England and I commute on it daily. It's a star.

I got it from J W Groombridge in Heathfield, Sussex. They'd sold it to the bloke and he later p/ex'd it back to them.

Just keep an eye out!

Craigg

11-08-17, 03:18 PM

this looks like a really nice, standard bike:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/suzuki-sv650-/222606453660?hash=item33d460eb9c:g:~dkAAOSw5n5ZiYR b

the only strange thing is the top yoke is silver, i would have thought it would have been black with a black frame?

DomP

11-08-17, 04:07 PM

Not to mention the silver forks, front end damage?

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Bibio

11-08-17, 04:27 PM

no its a 2005, they came with silver top yoke and silver forks. the above bike has had a slip on at some point, owner has more than likely taken it off to sell separate. looks a nice clean example. original straight rear brake lever, original straight gear change lever, check the rubber for wear and consistent with mileage as very very few people change them.

Craig380

11-08-17, 04:34 PM

Sensible mods too - fender extenda, rear hugger, crash bungs etc. Aftermarket handlebars but that could just be a comfort modification rather than a crash mod :)

DomP

11-08-17, 04:42 PM

650

12-08-17, 08:23 PM

I'm in south east London, more than happy to come with you to view some bikes if you like. Just PM me. I have slightly smaller baps than my avatar would suggest.

Heorot

12-08-17, 09:50 PM

Ebay was where I got my bike from 5 years ago. I looked at classified as well but was picky and waited until the right bike came along; a naked K3 with just under 7000 miles on the clock. Fender xtender, crash bungs, Oxford heated grips (wired to the ignition) and a double bubble screen. I waited until there was only 30 seconds left to go and got it for £1500.

korre

12-08-17, 10:09 PM

Thanks for the link Craigg! Sadly that ship has sailed, but plenty more fish in the sea...hopefully!

I hadn't thought to post links to the potential purchase, but I might do that going forward as you guys pick up on things I definitely wouldn't (e.g. potentially after market forks and its had a slip on).

650 - that's very generous of you! If I find a bike near you then I will definitely take you up on the offer, even though I'm armed with some new knowledge from you guys, would still be great to have an owner with me :D.

Heorot - I'll start trawling eBay going forward, I have currently limited my search to gumtree and autotrader.

DAS course starts tomorrow...nervous/excited to start!

Heorot

13-08-17, 11:39 AM

There are always plenty of SV's for sale on Ebay so you can afford to wait for the right one for you. Personally, I would recommend buying a K3 upwards model as these have electronic ignition instead of a carburetter. The K3 is a halfway house between the curvy and pointy. The K4 and upwards has the full pointy package.

650

13-08-17, 09:31 PM

korre

13-08-17, 10:49 PM

Personally, I prefer the look of the pointy models, so for now I will be sticking to post 2003. About to trawl ebay before bed...

Heorot

13-08-17, 11:24 PM

Some parts of the K3 are a holdover from the curvy. (like the rearsets and radiator). The subframe is also angled up higher than 2004+ models. The different subframe has year-specific parts, such as the rider seat, plastic frame covers, exhaust hanger brackets and passenger pegs.
For 2004, Suzuki used a new, 40 mm lower subframe and a seat with a narrower design in the front.This made flat footing easier for shorter riders. The trail was raised by 2 mm, and the rear fender was restyled to clean up the area under the tail lights and provide more protection against flying debris.

650

14-08-17, 12:31 PM

I know, still doesn't make the K3 a curvy, or some kind of half way house. It's a pointy.

andy650

14-08-17, 02:06 PM

Yup, a K3 is a pointy.

A good curvy for (say) £1500 is a better buy than a mediocre pointy for £1500.

But if you prefer the styling of a pointy then go for it. Don't let curvy carbs put you off, as 650 says carbs are actually very little hassle and IMHO are nicer to ride than fuel injected bikes.

SV650rules

14-08-17, 03:45 PM

Carbs make for an infinitely smoother, less snatchy ride (not that the pointy is super snatchy, mind you). While the curvy bikes are getting on a bit, a good curvy isn't hard to find and they don't take a lot of maintenance. In fact, if you ride the bike once in a blue moon and don't allow fuel to turn to glue, the carbs will be good for a lifetime. The seal kits aren't hard to find in case they're an issue.

There's also no halfway house between a curvy and a pointy, the K3 quite simply IS a pointy.

Yup, a K3 is a pointy.

A good curvy for (say) £1500 is a better buy than a mediocre pointy for £1500.

But if you prefer the styling of a pointy then go for it. Don't let curvy carbs put you off, as 650 says carbs are actually very little hassle and IMHO are nicer to ride than fuel injected bikes.

It all depends on what you want it for, spend a lot of time around town you may find the 'snatchiness' or lack of it matters more than if most miles will be open road, injected bikes seem to do better in the MPG department and lack of choke and easy starting (normally) and better cold running make them attractive to some. In my experience of Redex or STP cleaner in the petrol keeps carbs or injectors in good shape and free from gum / lacquer (and will most times sort out neglected carbs at minimum cost and hassle). I ride a 2016 L7 and low throttle has been pretty much sorted but it can catch you sometimes, but slipping clutch a bit helps in low speed manoeuvres.

Bibio

14-08-17, 05:12 PM

the snatchy throttle on the pointy can be fixed by adjusting the TPS properly.

DomP

14-08-17, 06:12 PM

Surely curvy vs pointy is less relevant that S or N

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

andy650

14-08-17, 06:32 PM

Of course.

Curvy v pointy is about looks and carbs v fuel injection.

S or N is about the riding experience and riding position. That really depends on your intended use, mainly fast roads and you'll want the S, city work and the N is better IMHO.

I got the best of both worlds, sort of, by adding N bars to my S.

DomP

14-08-17, 06:39 PM

Still gotta be a pointy S though!

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

DomP

14-08-17, 06:39 PM

And fully faired

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

650

14-08-17, 08:23 PM

Well, I've got a pointy 1000 and just bought a curvy 650 right now, so I'm truly living that half way house life!

650

14-08-17, 08:42 PM

Debateable whether fast roads suit an S or an N more, the N is an absolute hooligan machine...but...my 1000 is an N and the 650 is an S...so, again, best of both worlds!

andy650

14-08-17, 09:18 PM

Almost snap, I have an SV1000SZ (the anniversary one, with USD front end, and the modern thin spoke Gixxer wheels), and an old curvy SV650S, with the aforementioned N bar conversion.

Love them both, use the 650 daily for commuting.

R1ffR4ff

15-08-17, 11:22 AM

To the OP.This looks like a bargain IMHO,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-SV650-2003-03-registered-with-19-205-miles-/132294467496?hash=item1ecd5d5fa8:g:N4AAAOSwYGBZkJw q

Biker Biggles

15-08-17, 12:51 PM

To the OP.This looks like a bargain IMHO,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-SV650-2003-03-registered-with-19-205-miles-/132294467496?hash=item1ecd5d5fa8:g:N4AAAOSwYGBZkJw q

Agreed.Subject to it being as described I would go for something like that as a newby.Not immaculate so a good bike to learn the ropes with for a year or two,then maybe trade up to something smarter.You will still get your money back when its time to sell.Not too much ventured so not too much lost.

R1ffR4ff

15-08-17, 12:53 PM

Agreed.Subject to it being as described I would go for something like that as a newby.Not immaculate so a good bike to learn the ropes with for a year or two,then maybe trade up to something smarter.You will still get your money back when its time to sell.Not too much ventured so not too much lost.

Also leaves plenty of dosh for maintenance and upgrades etc :)

willf

17-08-17, 07:42 PM

Buy mine :)

Naked K8 £1400

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=227934

korre

19-08-17, 09:51 AM

Hi Willf, bike looks really good and although quite high mileage, I do love the naked version! Passed my Mod 1 yesterday and have Mod 2 next Thursday, so if it's still around by then I would like to come see it.

Beyond the mods to be declared on your ad...what else has been done to the bike which makes it non-standard? I notice:
- no rear hugger - is that normal?
- different indicators front and rear? someone earlier warned me against these due to wiring
- an attached usb port (im guessing as it says USB), again potential wiring concern
- silver yoke (assume original, but checking it wasn't originally black).
- forks are black - original according to google is silver.
- oem levers? just notice the front break lever has a pattern in the back, whereas the clutch lever is plain.

Also what condition are the consumables in i.e. tyre tread, brake pad wear and the chain and sprocket?

Cheers!

Heorot

19-08-17, 10:19 AM

Only 6 days left and 34 watchers. I wouldn't hang about if you want it Korre.

korre

19-08-17, 10:28 AM

Sadly I haven't passed my Mod 2 yet, so even if I wanted it today I couldn't :(

I'd like to see if Willf responds to the questions and also slightly concerned about mileage. Definitely one of the highest I've looked at in my budget, but not sure if that's a problem or not...

andy650

19-08-17, 12:49 PM

To answer some of your questions to willf, as an independent.

Hugger was not standard fitment
Indicator change is not a problem, if poorly wired very easy check and fix
Ditto re USB
Dont know about fork and yoke colour, not a big issue though
Levers - not uncommon for a small fall to break a lever, so if it has been changed for pattern not unusual or an issue. OEM or shortys can be cheaply found. Shortys are so much better.
High mileage not a major issue if well looked after, it affects price obviously, but if condition is good and serviced regularly, it is not a big deal.

korre

20-08-17, 07:18 AM

Thanks Andy650

Chris_SVS

20-08-17, 07:58 AM

I've seen higher mileage SV's. Looked after oil and filter wise they can do it no bother. I bought mine with 32000 on the clock. There was newer twinspark models with higher miles and curvy with lower miles dearer!

That's a great bike for the money

willf

21-08-17, 02:50 AM

I think andy650 covered most of it

- different indicators front and rear? someone earlier warned me against these due to wiring

I bought a heavy duty cover for the bike. SV650s don't often have a centre stand so the bike rests at an angle. When the heavy cover sat on it for a while the old indicators drooped, and eventually one broke. I looked at options at the time and went for aftermarket as Suzki's were not that attractive yet expensive. These are generic but v simple to change to something else if new owner prefers. They're wired in with bullet connectors.

- an attached usb port (im guessing as it says USB), again potential wiring concern

If you look on here for "Bibios electrical gizmo" or similar you'll find a helpful forum member sels an after market attachment to the loom which allows electrical items to be wired in correctly. Hence the USB charger (2 sockets) only draws current when the ignition is on. I'd forgotten to mention this is fitted. IMHO I'd always fit something to charge a phone / satnav.

- silver yoke (assume original, but checking it wasn't originally black).

Yes original.

- forks are black - original according to google is silver.

I believe they were painted by the previous owner as the forks were getting slightly pitted by weather, and this was best option of tidying it up. They look v smart to me.

- oem levers? just notice the front break lever has a pattern in the back, whereas the clutch lever is plain.

Not sure. I haven't owned a new model from the factory. I wouldn't have noticed. As someone else said these can be changed to your preference. People often change the bars also, these are OEM.

Also what condition are the consumables in i.e. tyre tread, brake pad wear and the chain and sprocket?

I'll try to take more pictures for you. Rear brakes are fine, front brakes were new maybe 2,000 miles ago (so almost new).
I'm not a motorcycle dealer so hopefully someone else can estimate tyre life left. They're certainly legal. Rear tyre has been around Europe and worn slightly more in the middle. Well, that's my excuse! I'm not a fast rider so chicken strips so wide they would meet in the middle normally.
I've adjusted chain once (after Europe trip). In good condition. I'll take pictures so hopefully someone independent can comment. It's a DID gold chain I believe but think I have paperwork still somewhere. Previous owner had scotoiler, I used loobman for a while but it was temperamental so I took it off.

Good luck with your Mod 2...

Will

willf

21-08-17, 07:59 PM

more photos as per request here:
http://forums.sv650.org/album.php?albumid=1275

SV650rules

22-08-17, 12:59 PM

Those tyres look ultra-shiny, not been treated with silicon or tyre shine I hope ?

650

22-08-17, 03:08 PM

Those tyres look ultra-shiny, not been treated with silicon or tyre shine I hope ?

Drifting is all the rage now

Chris_SVS

22-08-17, 03:26 PM

Bike and ground around it look wet to me,

andy650

25-08-17, 07:34 AM

Here is a nice curvy in Epsom, round the corner from me.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/bike-search?sort=distance&radius=1500&postcode=kt187nh&make=SUZUKI&seller-type=private

Or a nice pointy in Waltham Cross

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201708228576517?seller-type=private&postcode=kt187nh&sort=distance&advertising-location=at_bikes&make=SUZUKI&radius=1500&page=4

korre

25-08-17, 07:56 AM

Thanks Andy, I like the look of the pointy as this is what I'm on the hunt for, looks to be in good condition. I'm not sure I understand bar conversions. What is the benefit of the straight bar conversion....why would you do it? comfort or style?

Went to view a pointy last night which had a Beowulf exhaust and they had removed the baffle. He said that it wouldn't fail the MOT as it's now an advisory and not a fail, is this true?

R1ffR4ff

25-08-17, 08:02 AM

I like that Pointy.The bars make it close to my 1999 X naked.I can't do the lower grip position of an S as they give me neck ache looking up so the,"Sit-Up-And-Beg" of the Nakeds/Normal bars suits me :)

korre

25-08-17, 08:13 AM

I do prefer the naked models, but finding a naked pointy within my budget is proving quite impossible. I get the impression that naked bikes weren't so popular back then. So I'll have to settle for the S.

I did my DAS on a Yamaha MT-07, so when I sat on the bike last night (SV650S - bikini faired) I was quite surprised by the lower down position. Good to know I can change the bars if I need to and replicate a naked riding position.

andy650

25-08-17, 01:25 PM

korre

25-08-17, 01:40 PM

Cheers Andy650! good to know :D

Biker Biggles

25-08-17, 05:04 PM

Buy mine :)

Naked K8 £1400

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=227934
Did that one sell?
If not Id have another think about it.Sounds exactly what you are looking for and worth a viewing and maybe an offer.

R1ffR4ff

25-08-17, 10:35 PM

The pointy S, with the bar conversion, will have the riding position of the N. Best of both worlds :-)

Loud exhaust may be an MOT failure, or advisory, or not mentioned, depends on the tester and how loud it is. Getting a suitable baffle is not hard or expensive.

+10 :thumbsup:

I got my Curvy coz I can do carbs.I know next to bugger all about EFI etc.

Any SV under 20k on the clock that is cosmetically good is a reasonable choice IMHO.Although cosmetics can be deceiving it's a decent benchmark,as any can be,that the owner/s took care of the rest.

Mine was obviously a,"Garage Queen" and well looked after and I paid £1595 for a 16k Curvy.I've put more miles on it in 2017 than it did between 2010 and now.
I've been through the bike electrically and changed all fluids and checked pads etc and service plugs.Previous owners/maintenance all bolts came off and were coated with,"Copper Slip/Copper grease" nice one :cool:

Added what I wanted(Puig Screen.Still the best small screen for a single headlight) Next to no buffeting at 70 MPH+ VAT<grin> :thumbsup:
Handguards(I need then in Winter coz me suffer from,"VWF").

korre

28-08-17, 10:11 PM

Good news is I managed to find a mechanic who also does pick up and drop off for motorcycles through my training school.

Other good news is that I managed to find an SV650S too! It's a 2006 (SK6) with just over 3000 miles on it and cost £1,650 from eBay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/suzuki-sv650-2006-ultra-low-mileage-/142481793444?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=EfVBufbDQXcoNhlWsXX5otKSKic%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

I'm hoping it's not too much of a gamble as although it is old, it looks like the guy has barely ridden it. Providing the mechanic gives it the all clear when he does a quick check over, I will be the new owner of an SV650 by the end of the week! I do not know what he includes in his checks, is there anything in particular I should suggest?

It was serviced at 600 miles and 1800 miles (2011). Since 2011 it has done 1200 miles, but I do not believe it has been serviced despite 6 years passing. Do I need to service this or will the oil, filter, sparks etc. be ok till the next service interval (i.e. 1800 + 3500 miles = 5300, instead of 7500 as he got it serviced earlier than the 4000 miles).

Thanks for all the help so far!