650 oil sump

[650]

Can this be replaced? I've got an unbelievably seized oil sump plug on the 650. I'm going to try bolt extractors and so on in the near future. However, I like to think ahead and want to know if I can replace the sump if it's beyond removal.I know I can extract the oil via suction, but I'd rather mend this so the next buyer (if/when I come to sell) doesn't have anything to worry about.

[maviczap]

If it was me, I'd be looking at drilling it out to collapse the thread, but as a last resort. I wouldn't be using a bolt extractor.

Heat the casing around it & lube it up.

As you're in East London, this guy does some amazing recovery work from disasters

https://www.facebook.com/threadworxuk/

[650]

I'll keep that in mind, the bike's in Lancashire though - I use it as a run around while I'm up there with work. I'll deffo keep his details handy though as that could be a life saver in the future.

[Bibio]

there is no separate 'sump pan' on the SV. its all the same as the main crank casing.

[650]

Thought so. Couldn't see anything hold it in place but thought best to check.

Fingers crossed the bolt extractors work. Don't fancy spending a penny more than needed on this bike.

[Biker Biggles]

Have you ever had the plug out?
Its not uncommon for people to strip the thread on these as its a steel plug into an alloy sump and sometimes the "cure" is to put the plug back "permanently" and change the oil by other means.

[Bibio]

i usually find that sump plugs are hard to get off if the washer has not been replaced in a while, this makes the washer go brittle and compressed. here are two things to try before drilling it out.

repetitive taps on the plug head with hammer. this will slightly crush the washer and move the plug in the threads and is usually enough to get it moving. dont go mad hitting the plug with the hammer as the casings are cast alloy.

placing a ring end of a combination spanner on the plug, holding the ring part on the plug head then tapping the open end with a hammer to loosen it (hillbilly impact). its a sharp quick tap with the hammer that is required and FFS remember you are working upside down.

as Biggles has said though its usually due to muppets not using their fingers to wind the plug in before tightening so cross thread it or indeed tighten it farrrr too much and strip the thread. remember its the washer that stops it leaking and to a point not how tight it is.

[650]

Have you ever had the plug out?
Its not uncommon for people to strip the thread on these as its a steel plug into an alloy sump and sometimes the "cure" is to put the plug back "permanently" and change the oil by other means.

Only had the bike for..what...a month? So, in a word....no.

I was wondering whether to leave it in place but I'm a stickler for having things right. It's coming out!

[650]

i usually find that sump plugs are hard to get off if the washer has not been replaced in a while, this makes the washer go brittle and compressed. here are two things to try before drilling it out.

repetitive taps on the plug head with hammer. this will slightly crush the washer and move the plug in the threads and is usually enough to get it moving. dont go mad hitting the plug with the hammer as the casings are cast alloy.

placing a ring end of a combination spanner on the plug, holding the ring part on the plug head then tapping the open end with a hammer to loosen it (hillbilly impact). its a sharp quick tap with the hammer that is required and FFS remember you are working upside down.

as Biggles has said though its usually due to muppets not using their fingers to wind the plug in before tightening so cross thread it or indeed tighten it farrrr too much and strip the thread. remember its the washer that stops it leaking and to a point not how tight it is.

It's way beyond any of that now matey, it's basically a circle with loads of chisel marks in it :D

[SV650rules]

Try a pair of stilsons and a bit of heat, the alloy will expand more than the steel of the plug and with stilsons the harder you turn the harder they grip.

Otherwise Irwin do sets of nut / bolt extractors that have same hardened helix as the internal stud extractors but they fit externally over the nut or bolt head.
Have to be used with care as they can overshoot the sump plug head and put pressure onto the alloy of the casing, with very costly result.

A bit of local heat is your best bet when screwing steel fasteners out of alloy due to different expansion rates of the two metals.

[650]

I'll have a pop when I'm next up north, thanks for the advice :)

[BoltonSte]

Where about are you when you are up here? there's a place in Belmont I use who is decent.

[650]

Not too far from Chorley

[R1ffR4ff]

I know you are going through it with the bike but I've been there in spades.

I took this,

https://i.imgur.com/Is5smEq.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/9bsdK1M.jpg


To this,

https://i.imgur.com/BfhQUNR.jpg

and got it fully working except for the Headlight and Front brakes needed doing but the guy I did it for took care of that when it got to Spain where as far as I know it's still running :)

I did it for the cost of him buying me a cheap Motorcycle lift and even picked the bike up from the Ebayer he bought it from,which I told him not to do/buy) :P

[650]

haha wow, well it's not even remotely THAT bad! But uber kudos to you for the work...it looks great in the last pic.

How did you get the engine looking so much better? Shot blasted or something?

[R1ffR4ff]

haha wow, well it's not even remotely THAT bad! But uber kudos to you for the work...it looks great in the last pic.

How did you get the engine looking so much better? Shot blasted or something?

Nope.I was an Aircraft Paint Sprayer (am still but also an Aircraft Mech)so know me paints.I found an excellent satin chrome High Temp Aerosol paint,


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastikote-Plasti-kote-Appliance-Chrome-Enamel-Metal-Satin-Spray-Paint-400ml-/162345408730?epid=726591856&hash=item25cc8a58da:g:o-cAAOSwjvJZQjIk

Then just prep the engine with some scotchbrite and thinners/Carb Brake cleaner.
This paint is the Dog's Danglies for engines.It doesn't need a primer and can be applied as one coat.You only need to apply it lightly and it drys super fast and blends nicely for touch-ups.It withstands the engine heat,no problem.
I've found it better than the normal engine enamels.

This is how the Drive box looked after a quick clean-up and spray but with normal engine enamel,

https://i.imgur.com/TJmtrHm.jpg


and here's one of my own old CX500 engines using the Plastikote Satin Chrome(small Avatar picture enlarged),

https://i.imgur.com/ksSk7YQ.jpg

[BoltonSte]

Not too far from Chorley


Ah right (I'm over t'other side of the hill.), Russ at Bolton Motorcycle Workshop is based in Belmont bleach works.


He's always been good with me, knows his stuff, has built specials that have been in fast bikes and the like (his own) and was spannering a Daytona race bike.


I've seen most makes in the workshop so may be worth a punt to get it sorted.


Ste

[maviczap]

Nope.I was an Aircraft Paint Sprayer (am still but also an Aircraft Mech)so know me paints.I found an excellent satin chrome High Temp Aerosol paint,


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastikote-Plasti-kote-Appliance-Chrome-Enamel-Metal-Satin-Spray-Paint-400ml-/162345408730?epid=726591856&hash=item25cc8a58da:g:o-cAAOSwjvJZQjIk

Then just prep the engine with some scotchbrite and thinners/Carb Brake cleaner.
This paint is the Dog's Danglies for engines.It doesn't need a primer and can be applied as one coat.You only need to apply it lightly and it drys super fast and blends nicely for touch-ups.It withstands the engine heat,no problem.
I've found it better than the normal engine enamels.

This is how the Drive box looked after a quick clean-up and spray but with normal engine enamel,

https://i.imgur.com/TJmtrHm.jpg


and here's one of my own old CX500 engines using the Plastikote Satin Chrome(small Avatar picture enlarged),

https://i.imgur.com/ksSk7YQ.jpg

Looks better than when it left the factory!

My Sv casings could do with this treatment, but I'm not going down the strip down route just yet.

[ChrisCurvyS]

Sorry to resurrect a three year old forum but just in case anyone else has the same issue as me - sump bolt snapped and when we tried to drill it out it went straight up into the sump. Thought we were looking at a complete engine strip which would be worth more than the bike but managed to get it out by taking off the engine casing on the right side of the bike and inserting a magnet on the end of cable tie. Bit of a relief!

[SV650rules]

Bad luck, but you really need to use LH drill bit when drilling out snapped bolts, it means that as the drill turns it is trying to unscrew the bolt at same time and if the broken bit wants to go anywhere it tries to come out of hole. But how many people would have the correct size LH drill in their toolkit ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KKmoon-Cobalt-Broken-Damaged-Extractor/dp/B0756ZKK5R/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=left+hand+drill+bit&qid=1591777184&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.co.uk/left-hand-drill-bit/s?k=left+hand+drill+bit

[R1ffR4ff]

Having worked on engines and Aircraft removing broken studs and bolts I advise not buying a Left hand drill bit kit but only buy the one,"Quality" Left hand drill bit of the correct size for the job. I've tried one of these kits and the Drill bits are not usually up to the job :(

My 10 Penn'th :)