Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?

[zombie]

Hi


I have a Fuel exhaust on a K5 (it was on when I bought).


One of the clamps broke (it was old and rusty). The clamp was over one piece of the pipe, and under another. So I guess one part of the pipe "slips over" the other.


Since then there has been an annoying low speed rattle, presumably as the inner and outer pipe knock against each other.


I got a new clamp but have put it over the outer pipe, and this hasn't helped.


The broken part of the old clamp is still in place - difficult to get out because underneath and rusted. Ideally, I need to get that out and a replacement clamp in there, but I don't think it is possible with the thing on the bike, and I also don't have anything to lift the bike up with.


Just wondering for any tips on either (a) sorting the clamp out or (b) stopping the rattle another way. Please and thank you.

I have pictures to assist, but it keeps saying "This is not a valid image file" so can't upload.

[Chris_SVS]

Could poke and prod at it and still have a rattle. Clean it, get it off as far as you can, clean and reassemble.

There's no shortcut here IMO, couple of bolts (inc the pillion peg end) and it should be easy enough

[R1ffR4ff]

Can you take and post a picture of the area?

[Fen Tiger]

As a stop gap bodge you could squirt some high temp silicon sealant at the rattle. Once cured it may stop the noise.

[zombie]

Thanks for the replies. Links to pics below.

[zombie]

https://ibb.co/k0eeZ6


https://ibb.co/fc7oSR


https://ibb.co/dbyHMm


https://ibb.co/mVvKZ6


Hope this works

[R1ffR4ff]

Good call on the Gas sealant.I used this on mine,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRANVILLE-EXHAUST-ASSEMBLY-PASTE-140g-PROVIDES-GAS-TIGHT-SEAL-LUBRICATES/231021138476?epid=1142171677&hash=item35c9eed22c:g:xcYAAMXQTQpR7xf0

Best I've ever used.Not silicone based though.


https://i.imgur.com/hw5Qpu8.jpg


I had to chop some metal off the 30 Deg link pipe I had to use and from at end of my slip-on and make my own tightening slits with a hacksaw just enough so that when the clamps tighten they squeeze tight properly and then applied the seal to all the joints before clamping tight.


Also in the picture below you can see two metal bands front and rear on the Actual Slip-on(The ones with the Big Rivets).These flapped a little at certain revs as it's a cheap Chinese slip-on.I squeezed sealant under them spreading it in and under with my finger so when it set they couldn't move against the body of the Can.

As this sealant is water based it was easy to wipe off to make neat and clean with a wet microfiber cloth.


https://i.imgur.com/2SgGTHi.jpg

The car exhaust clamp was changed for a better proper smoother looking clamp like the ones on the short link pipe.

[zombie]

Thanks for the detail. I've ordered one of those sealents and will give it a go.

[R1ffR4ff]

Thanks for the detail. I've ordered one of those sealents and will give it a go.


Tip:
Once you are happy with the sealing start the engine but don't rev it high.Just let it idle so the exhaust gets hot naturally without putting any big pressure through the system.The seal will set pretty quick.

I've used a lot of sealers in my life as it's sometimes part of my job on Aircraft.This Granville stuff is one of the best I've used and for the price I don't think can be beaten :)

[Bibio]

looking at the pics from above...

1. your clamping the heat shield not the pipework. you must clamp the pipework.
2. the heat shield rattles when the welds rot and the only fix is to remove the heat shield. it causes no harm and mine got thrown years ago.
3. chances are that if the clamps behind the heat shield are rotten then you will need a new connection sleeve/gasket. these are tubes made of heat proof material that the fore and aft pipework slide into. no amount of 'assembly paste' will seal it you need to buy a new one if its leaking.
4. never over tighten clamps, you will just strip the threads on the bolts. buy 'full' SS clamps as they include an SS bolt and nut as well. once clamped up treat the bolt/threads/nut to some coper grease. dont use copper grease before you clamp it up or you will strip the threads.

[DuncanC]

Bibio, Why would putting copper grease on the threads before tightening them up cause the threads to strip? Also stainless to stainless nut bolt combinations should never be done dry as there is a significant risk of the nut and bolt cold welding.

[Bibio]

Bibio, Why would putting copper grease on the threads before tightening them up cause the threads to strip? Also stainless to stainless nut bolt combinations should never be done dry as there is a significant risk of the nut and bolt cold welding.
copper grease is very slippy and putting the stuff on bolts before you tighten can strip the threads, especially if you torque to 'specified' or your ham fisted. SS bolts dont cold weld to SS nuts, problems arise when using aluminium in the mix as the two hate each other.

torque settings are for brand new threads mostly dry. applying a slippy substance to threads lessens the friction, less friction = less effort to reach a certain point.

if your going to copper grease any bolt threads and a torque wrench then drop the torque setting by 10-25% depending on how new each thread part is.

if you dont believe me there is a simple test. get some used and new nuts and bolts. clamp the head of a new bolt or nut and put in a vice, torque till the bolt or nut strips the threads or breaks then set the torque wrench at that torque. next apply copper grease to a new set of bolt/nut then repeat the process. repeat the above steps with the used nut and bolts.

now i'm not saying dont use copper grease on threads but be careful when you do and dont go mad with the stuff, a very very thin coating is all that is needed to stop corrosion. i like to dab around 1/8th of the thread tip in my copper grease tin then insert the bolt. only time i use copper grease is on external fasteners or blind holes that i know are going to cause problems later on like frame mounts etc.etc.

only time i use a torque wrench is on critical bolts inside an engine.

if your bolt has a 'shank' then you can put as much as you like on that part as long as its not touching the head or will squeeze out and touch the head which again will lessen the friction and reduce the torque.

applying copper grease or indeed any grease to external threads that have already been fastened up reduces the risk of them rotting and yes that includes SS. SS by itself wont corrode its other elements sitting on the surface that eat into the SS. Stain-Less Steel

[DuncanC]

Bibio, I hate to disagree but please research cold welding of stainless steel fasteners. Using different grades of stainless lessons the likely hood but as most people don't know what they have when they get fasteners is it best not to chance it.
I served my time in the nuclear industry so every bolt was a stainless bolt.

[zombie]

Hi


Long story short. Clamp thought was a red herring and the rattle is INSIDE the end can. Something in it, or something has come loose inside. It has been on there at least 8 years so maybe it has a problem. I can't get the baffle off (seized). Garage say need to replace the end can. That seems expensive, but it is annoying as it is.


If that's correct, where can I get a budget end can and will it really just slip on to replace the existing one (couple of bolts)? If the pipe was cut when they put the Fuel one on (before I had it) is this a problem? Id get the same again, but that seems very expensive. Do I need to check how wide the pipe is?


Thanks again, much appreciated.

[R1ffR4ff]

This is the thread that led me to fit my Cheap Slip-on,

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=227836

and I bought this for 30 quid-ish

https://tinyurl.com/y9lyteuv

I also bought the little,"Fuel Brand" link pipe(£14) and as my Curvy needed an extra little 30 Deg bend pipe I also bought this,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jetex-Mandrel-Exhaust-Tubing-Bends-2-Size-30-Degree-Angle-Mild-Steel-/371149133899?hash=item566a36584b

I had to do a bit of hack sawing and make my own slits at the Can end I recall and hack off the Lug things off the Slip-on and discard the inner sleeve thing that came with the slip-on.Not a hard job once I figured out what needed to be done.


Here's what it sounds like with the Baffle in.I didn't want it any louder,

https://app.box.com/s/50v1t40uzq6mayvxq6edm7cavzd3nxk6


Note:The baffle was only held in with a self tapper and I blew it out<grin> so refitted using an M6 nut and bolt.All solid now :)

[zombie]

That looks good, and if it were a straight swop with removing and replacing a couple of bolts I'd happily buy the same one you did. That kind of price is great. I don't want to have to cut things or buy more bits though!

[SV650rules]

Bibio, I hate to disagree but please research cold welding of stainless steel fasteners. Using different grades of stainless lessons the likely hood but as most people don't know what they have when they get fasteners is it best not to chance it.
I served my time in the nuclear industry so every bolt was a stainless bolt.

+1

SS is well known for 'galling' (cold welding) problem with Stainless bolts that not many people realise is that they are low tensile, SS is low carbon material and won't harden.
Recommended best lubricants are Molybdenum Disulphide and Graphite, but most people have copper grease laying around.

You have to be some special kind of hamfist to strip threads using standard length spanners and socket wrenches though (they are made that length for a reason, smaller spanners are shorter length so don't use a pipe or extension), if using torque wrench reduce quoted torque by about 20% for lubed threads.

[zombie]

Fuel can "resleeve and repack" for £50+Postage apparently.

[R1ffR4ff]

Fuel can "resleeve and repack" for £50+Postage apparently.

Sounds good and with luck less hassle :)

[Stilo]

Sounds good and with luck less hassle :)

+1

[zombie]

Just a follow up to say all sorted via the Fuel option.

Excellent service from Fuel Exhausts. There and back in a working week.

Thanks for the advice.

http://tinypic.com/r/20a5vfm/9

[R1ffR4ff]

Glad you got it fixed :)