SV650AL7 chain and sprockets kit

[UnoSD]

Hi everyone,

I managed somehow to wear chain/sprockets after 1 year and a half and 5k miles lubing it regularly. ( I guess it may have been because the rear wheel was unaligned, any other guess is welcome! )

I am struggling to find a new kit of chain/front and rear sprocket for the 2016-2017 model. Anyone can suggest a site/model to look for on eBay/Amazon?

Most sites don't find it by putting make/model/year but I presume it may be compatible with existing parts and they just haven't updated their dbs.

Thank you.

[Biker Biggles]

I dont know if it takes the same kit as older models but how did that happen? Did you buy it new and have you ever tampered with the rear wheel or chain adjustment? If it was correctly set up originally and kept lubed it should not have needed to be disturbed yet. If that is the case Id take it back to the dealer because the chain may have been set up too tight from new. Further damage to the gearbox output shaft bearing can then happen.

[UnoSD]

I dont know if it takes the same kit as older models but how did that happen? Did you buy it new and have you ever tampered with the rear wheel or chain adjustment? If it was correctly set up originally and kept lubed it should not have needed to be disturbed yet. If that is the case Id take it back to the dealer because the chain may have been set up too tight from new. Further damage to the gearbox output shaft bearing can then happen.

I am afraid it was me; I had a garage change the wheel and they left too much slack on the chain and it started squeaking. I adjusted it but I guess I did not aligned it properly and that screwed up chain and sprockets :(

[UnoSD]

The front sprocket (27511-12C00) appears to be unique to AL7 but is available at dealers (eg: Fowlers)
The rear sprocket (64511-44H20) is shared with the Gladius also available at dealers (Fowlers)
The chain though... 27600-44H10-112 was on back order each place I looked (and only seems to be used by AL7) along with its joint set (27620-44H10).

Update: found the chain here: https://www.bike-parts-suz.com/suzuki-motorcycle/assignment_spare_parts/2760044H10112 (they have the joint set too)

Might want to check with your local dealer - it might be in stock in Europe and be here in a couple of days.

Thank you!

I have also found a kit from AFAM (K4972) and it looks quite cheap £80-110 (depending on they type of chain) they are QX-rings. Any thoughts on those? https://afam.com/en/service-2/dc-kit-configurator/

[UnoSD]

I had not heard of QX-ring chains before, the Q stands for quadra apparently - I am no wiser.

AFAM have been around for a while, I've bought a sprocket from them in the past which worked out well. I should think you will be ok with a chain kit from them (not that you have too many options at the moment anyway).

I have also found D.I.D:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D-I-D-OE-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-Suzuki-2016-SV650-S-3503546/142300604984

Any thoughts on that? quite cheaper and hopefully better than the originals from Suzuki.

[garynortheast]

D.I.D is decent enough stuff.

[Talking Heads]

(disclaimer: I'm overwhelmingly cautious, cynical and expect things to go wrong.)

They said "smile it could be worse" so I smiled... and it got worse... :lol:

[UnoSD]

Agreed.

The only minor issue I see is that the ebay advert lists the kit for a 2016 SV650S (they didn't make an "S" in 2016). The kit number is 3503546, if you search that kit number it also shows up for a SV650S K8-K10

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Motorcycle-DID-Chain-Sprocket-Kit-for-Suzuki-Sv650-S-K8-10-08-10-525vx/648036128

If you check the Suzuki part number for a 2009 SV650S front sprocket it is 27510-20F00 but the Suzuki part number for a 2017 SV650 AL7 front sprocket is 27511-12C00. What's the difference? It will probably fit but I'd ask the vendor specifically before ordering and check if it's returnable if it doesn't fit.

(disclaimer: I'm overwhelmingly cautious, cynical and expect things to go wrong.)

Thanks, I'm extremely cautious as well, and I notice that, too.

I may go for the DC Chains/AFAM sprockets then. I can clearly see the model from their website and it looks specific for the 2016-2017. Any thoughts on those brands?

[Biker Biggles]

All the major makes are OK as long as its the correct part and you keep it adjusted and lubed when in use. I use old engine oil for chain lube. Can be messy but my chains last 20000 miles plus. A Scotoiler will make them last 30000 plus.

[UnoSD]

Thank you guys, I'll go for that one then.

They also seem to have two versions (both QX rings):
One is 3800 DAN (steel)
and the more expensive 3630 DAN (gold)

Apparently DAN is the unit of measure of tension strength (didn't know much about it)

which one would you buy?

I also need a tool to close the master, any suggestion?

Thanks for all the help.

[UnoSD]

Chains develop surface rust very quickly when exposed to salt water, I guess the gold finish chain may be better (more resistant) in that regard. They (the gold) look good when clean but I slather my chain with SAE30 gear oil so the gold effect would be wasted on me. I think it's more personal preference as opposed to one having any advantage.

As for a tool for closing the master - I usually let the dealer do it. My AL7 is coming up to 15000 miles on its original chain and I think I may be able to double that. A rivet tool kit costs £30 (and up) so I suppose it would make sense to get one, I just never have.

So, after all that babble, I don't have a suggestion, sorry :rolleyes:

No worries, you've been really helpful, thank you.

I got scared when I saw a £130 tool. But I guess there are cheaper ones.

[Bibio]

buy cheep buy twice.

if you want your chain and sprockets to last then fit a scottoiler. my last set lasted 36,000 miles. only changed them coz the chain rusted to fek with bike being outside otherwise they would still be on the bike.

[UnoSD]

buy cheep buy twice.

if you want your chain and sprockets to last then fit a scottoiler. my last set lasted 36,000 miles. only changed them coz the chain rusted to fek with bike being outside otherwise they would still be on the bike.

was talking about the tool, not the chain/sprocket, I wouldn't save on that.

[Bibio]

this is the tool i use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Bike-Chain-Breaker-Splitter-Link-Riveter-Universal-Set-Riveting-Tool/112888271983?hash=item1a48aa546f:g:yC4AAOSwy5BatRw k

WARNING. dont use it for pin extraction use a grinder to take the heads off then pop the plate out with a screwdriver. read the instructions FIRST.

you will also need a cheep digital vernier to measure the "crush"

[UnoSD]

this is the tool i use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Bike-Chain-Breaker-Splitter-Link-Riveter-Universal-Set-Riveting-Tool/112888271983?hash=item1a48aa546f:g:yC4AAOSwy5BatRw k

WARNING. dont use it for pin extraction use a grinder to take the heads off then pop the plate out with a screwdriver. read the instructions FIRST.

you will also need a cheep digital vernier to measure the "crush"

thanks. definitely better than 130 :P

[UnoSD]

Bought that in the end: https://www.ebay.co.uk/

X-ring. I still can't figure out weather the master link is clip or rivet style. I have heard bad things about clip falling off, could I just buy one aside and use it for that?

[Biker Biggles]

Some chain kits come with both links so you can DIY the job with the clip and ride it to a mechanic to rivit in the proper link. I dont have a chain riviter so thats what I would do.

[UnoSD]

Some chain kits come with both links so you can DIY the job with the clip and ride it to a mechanic to rivit in the proper link. I dont have a chain riviter so thats what I would do.

sounds actually quite a good idea, I always have trouble aligning the wheel so they could take care of that, too.

annoyingly the closest garage always leaves too much chain slack (and then the bike start squeaking), tried to explain to them the slack on the manual but they don't seem to think it's right... should find another one...

[Biker Biggles]

Going back to your first few posts in this thread--------are you sure you know what you are doing? You wore out a chain in a very short mileage and you think the shop had left the chain too slack. You tightened it up yourself then it wore out. You mention it squeaking which is normally a symptom of being too tight. Too loose might result in banging as it hits the swingarm. Too tight will cause wear to the chain and maybe the gearbox but a bit too slack is unlikely to cause any problems unless it is slack enough to fall off. What you describe sounds like you have been running the chain too tight.

[SV650rules]

A tight chain will FUBAR many things, not only the chain.

[UnoSD]

Going back to your first few posts in this thread--------are you sure you know what you are doing? You wore out a chain in a very short mileage and you think the shop had left the chain too slack. You tightened it up yourself then it wore out. You mention it squeaking which is normally a symptom of being too tight. Too loose might result in banging as it hits the swingarm. Too tight will cause wear to the chain and maybe the gearbox but a bit too slack is unlikely to cause any problems unless it is slack enough to fall off. What you describe sounds like you have been running the chain too tight.

It was squeaking when the garage did the alignment and the slack not me. This is why I did not trust them the next time... I put the slack that was written in the manual, but I probably cocked up the alignment as I did it with naked eye.

[SVrider]

Hi, what combo did you got in the end ? I`m only replacing the front sprocket now at 13k.
Can`t find anywhere front sprockets torque spec for the AL7. :(
Cheers

[R1ffR4ff]

According to the manual the torque setting for the engine sprocket nut is 145 Nm or 107 lb/ft

I think that's what I used when I replaced mine last year. :)

[SVrider]

Thanks a lot lads. Job`s done. It`s not in my L7 user manual. ( `address to your dealer if sprockets are used`...)
145 Nm it`s a lot; i nearly tipped the bike of the rear stand.
Cheers.

[R1ffR4ff]

Something I've not seen mentioned very often if at all is that some Rear sprockets are flat and symmetrical but the one I fitted and the one that came off mine are not.They have to be fitted with the Maker's,"Ident" parts number etc facing outwards otherwise the chain presents the wrong angle to the front sprocket.

Also I never trust the adjuster markers,at least on older machines,so always check and set mine using a metal tape and the distances between the Swinging arm bolt centre and the centre of the Rear wheel axle.

I've only got about 6,000 miles on this set but only adjusted it once and then probably less than a 0.2mm.I use a combination of 80w90 Hypoid gear oil and Mso2 as a lube.I'm not a,"Throttle and Brake" rider preferring to ride smooth but fast and keep my gear changes as smooth as I can both throttling up and down and match engine speeds when coming down so as not to chunk the chain and gearbox etc.

[Bibio]

tight enough is good enough as it has a locking washer. i never use a torque wrench on used nuts/bolts.