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View Full Version : Curvy - No spark at either cylinder


kbh
18-05-18, 05:17 PM
Hi all,

I am trying to resurect my old curvy. I abadoned it about 5yrs ago when it cut out on me on my way home and refused to start again and i lost interest in it after that.

But the time has come to invest some time and money in it again and get it back on the road.

So as it stands at then moment i have the following and tried the following:
1) brand new battery - bike cranks over healthily so i can rule out side stand/clutch switch
2) with ignition on - 12v+ on front and rear coil
3) with ignition on - i get 12v on the orange/white wire from the kill switch wire when turning the kill switch on. Checked at the connector by the headlight.
4) plugs are new and get damp with fuel after cranking.
5) brand new RR for good measure
6) main 30a fuse is good.
7) earths have been checked
8) stator hasn't been checked as believe this only affects charging circuit not spark
9) the bike has prevoiusly had data tool alarm on it but has been fine for a couple of years prior to it stopping.

Not sure what else i need to check and i dont want to randomly change things like the ecu as you dont get much chnage out of £100 these days on the bay and no guarantee this will cure it.

Does anyone have any suggestions please? 😁

daktulos
18-05-18, 05:20 PM
The ICU? I don't think it's possible to check it except by switching it out for a known working one, though.

Edit: I just realised you mentioned it. Is there anyone local with a curvy you could try switching with?

kbh
18-05-18, 06:06 PM
I don't think there is anyone local anymore. The curvys are a dying breed these days with most ppl moving onto pointy's now ��

R1ffR4ff
18-05-18, 06:59 PM
Did you try a volatile spray into the carbs like Carb-Brake cleaner or even WD40 which can act as a,"Quickstart" helper.

Talking Heads
18-05-18, 07:43 PM
Sorry if this is an egg sucking lesson but...
Have you tried cranking it over with the plug out to see if there's a good spark?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU

kbh
18-05-18, 08:02 PM
Yes thanks I meant to say I tested both plugs against the head to confirm no spark.
I have got a can of easy start but haven't used it yet as there was no spark. Was going to use it as the carbs have just been rebuilt as well as they were left how it was last run so thought it would get it going easier until the carbs had filled up.

kbh
18-05-18, 08:28 PM
Ah just tested the orange/red at the ignitor and there is 0 volts. For good measure I also tested the orange/white at this end and got 12v.

So what would that mean then having 0v on the O/R?

kbh
19-05-18, 09:09 AM
Excellent find thank you! ��

Ok just checked resistance on the multi meter at then 2000 ohm setting between orange/red and black/white on the ignition loom and i got a reading of exactly 100 ohm. So it would seem that the anti theft wire resistor is ok.....
What i couldnt work out form the other post is whether that means that i have a duff ignitor or that there is a break in the wire between the ignition and ignitor

R1ffR4ff
19-05-18, 09:19 AM
Have you checked to see if the,"Kill Switch" circuit is not faulty?

R1ffR4ff
19-05-18, 09:42 AM
I think if the kill switch is faulty it blocks the 12v on the orange/white (?) at the ignitor and kbh says that was ok.

Cool.Just trying to eliminate possibilities.

Troubleshooting electrics can be a PITA :smt088

On one of bike it started limiting power @ 5000 Rpm.Turned out to be a faulty Plug Cap!!

Not your problem I know but just shows how strange electrics can be.

kbh
04-06-18, 11:43 AM
Sorry for the delay but i have been away and also awaiting delivery of a ingnitor from fleabay.

There is nothing worse than someone not updating with the final result after asking for help!

Well.....I plugged the new ignitor in yesterday and the engine fired up :-) so it turned out this was the issue that seeker identified after the fault finding.

You have made me a very happy bunny and thanks again for your time and help on this