99 sv650n worm drive failure?

[Geodude]

Anyone got insider info on symptoms or the problems associated with the worm drive? So I know whether its knakered or not :confused:

So far new cable and clutch (800 miles ago for clutch plates and steels) full sid squid adjustment too perfection and correct slack, then maybe 20 gear changes later no cable slack at all and gears hard to change grr??? All nuts bolts and gubbins tight and happy and unmoved. I have not took the worm drive apart as im not playing hunt the ball bearings :rolleyes:

So have you got any experience of this if yes please do tell, no really do tell or its old yeller time ;)

[Bibio]

back off the clutch lever adjuster till you get your slack back.

clutch mantra is easier than the guide on here.
simple:
put lever adjuster at mid way.
tighten middle screw till touching.
lock the nut keeping the screw in the same place.
adjust clutch bite at lever adjuster.

yes its that easy, no need to pizz with 1/4 turn out and all that.

remember that the spring retainer goes on top of the mech.

[Geodude]

Ta Bibs will give it another try tomorrow as per instructed :) Why I ask is it works lovely for a bit then just looses its slack and wont change gear well, that's the bit that's got me head scratching?

[Bibio]

maybe just bedding in. did you soak the plates in a bucket of oil over night before fitting?

when the clutch mech is fubar its the opposite, your clutch lever goes all the way to the bar without engaging as the bearings are no longer tracking the worm gear.

[Geodude]

Yeah did the soak and shizz and its been happy for a good while. Its started being a bit stroppy with neutral/gears so I thought i'd put in a new cable (correct one) and it was ok for about 20 miles then lost slack etc so re-adjusted and again happy for a few miles then no slack or gear changes again grr.

Good to know about the worm drive cheers for that :) Why cant you live round the corner Bibs ;)

[Bibio]

that does sound strange. only thing i can think of is the clutch cable "walking" the adjuster. this happens when the bars are turned left/right and grips the adjuster. mines done it.

make sure that when you lock the lever adjuster you use a pair of pliers to "nip" it up.

[Geodude]

Ok cheers Bibs will do my best :)

[R1ffR4ff]

See if this helps,

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/SV650ClutchLifter.html

[Geodude]

Cheers for that riffraff I will look into that ta :)

[squirrel_hunter]

Anyone got insider info on symptoms or the problems associated with the worm drive?

It seizes and snaps your clutch cable 60 miles from home.

As the above, go through the adjustment routines and lube the worm up good.

[Geodude]

D'oh and Cheers for info :)

[Geodude]

Another stupid question, should there be movement in the cable outer when all adjustment is done? If i can explain it correctly i can pull the outer a good 5mm or so away from the bit that adjusts the slack? ( clutch cable adjuster bolt) Also slack goes tighter on full left lock and looser on full right lock? Correctly routed new oem cable too. Why am i struggling with this grr come on G give you head a shake :(

[Geodude]

Hmm also found this reply to a thread on some other bike forum :rolleyes: but it says to do the wormdrive screw adjustment last not first?


Quote: You adjust the screw last and take the cable slack out first

The arm that is connected to the cable should be at around a 90 degree angle to the fixing bolts

Remove the slack with the adjuster at the bottom of the cable the one closest to the clutch the top one is for fine adjustments

Once all that is set you screw the centre screw so it just touches the push rod then back it off a quarter to half a turn

Full thread here Click me (https://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=52759)


Wrong or right???

[johnnyrod]

Nope, slacken the cable right off then adjust the screw, then adjust the cable to get the biting point right. My clutch has always been unpredictable in terms of where the biting point is, despite changing the cable and am on my 3rd worm (2nd replacement) as they last about 20k miles for me.

[Geodude]

Hey johnny, yep that's what I thought. The internet is useful and pointless at times :p

Does anyone else find they are able to pull the outer cable out out of the clutch cable adjuster bolt by 5mm or so when its adjusted up?


ps im not normally this stupid im just having one of those weeks/months/years ;)

[Bibio]

technically there should be no difference in tightening of the cable from lock to lock on the bars. if there is there is something snagging the cable.

when i fit new clutch cables i cable tie the old cable bottom end to the new cable top end with cable ties then pull and feed the new cable through. there are a few brackets (holders) that the cable has to run through if the cable is not pulled through these brackets then the cable can "tighten" as you go lock to lock.

when fitting a new cable once routed properly you:
adjust the top lever adjuster to the half way point.
tighten the bottom cable adjuster at the casing so it takes most of or all the slack from the cable.
wind the adjuster lifter mech adjuster screw out/in till its just touching the rear push rod.
lock the nut off making sure that you dont turn the screw.
adjust the bar end lever adjuster in/out for your preferred bite. there should be a few mm slack on the lever when done.

yes there is play in the lifter mech when pulling the clutch lever in/out.

properly looked after lifter mechs should last 40k easily, its when they are run dry they wear. the best lube is CV grease but if you dont have that then chain lube spray works as long as its done every oil change, you just need to squirt it between the two parts of the worm drive.

[Bibio]

Does anyone else find they are able to pull the outer cable out out of the clutch cable adjuster bolt by 5mm or so when its adjusted up?


ps im not normally this stupid im just having one of those weeks/months/years ;)

yes this in normal.

i'm saying nowt... :rolleyes:

[Bibio]

just had a thought.. do you have rental bars fitted?

[Geodude]

Hey Bibs yeah I used old one to feed new one through just incase I got it wrong :) Ahh hang on im doing the mech lifter adjustment with the cable fully slack at both ends then adjusting the bottom and top, is that wrong?

[Geodude]

yes this in normal.

i'm saying nowt... :rolleyes:


So its normal and im flapping for nowt then lol


Hey cheeky :D

[Bibio]

Hey Bibs yeah I used old one to feed new one through just incase I got it wrong :) Ahh hang on im doing the mech lifter adjustment with the cable fully slack at both ends then adjusting the bottom and top, is that wrong?

yes that wrong.

adjust cable slack first (so there is no slack) remembering to set the top lever adjuster half way.

then turn the mech screw in/out till its just touching.

then adjust top lever adjuster in/out for the bite point you prefer.

[Geodude]

Aaaaaaargh then no wonder its not right :smt102

so am I reading this wrong:

Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, then back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.


so I shouldn't adjust with slack as above or am I just confusing myself more, im getting old lol oh and no to renthals.

[Bibio]

its muchly the same.

i think this is where experience comes into play. you can go by the book or internet or you can go by experience of spannering. i've done it enough times (not just my own) to know that most of the info available is not wrong but its a long winded way of doing it.

technically yes its best to have the cable slack but then you must back out the screw 1/4 turn which by experience ends up exactly the same result as the way i do it.

if you really want to do it by the book then set the top adjuster half way then adjust the bottom cable adjuster to take the slack up then wind the top adjuster back down so there is slack in the cable. you then set the adjuster screw so its just touching then wind out 1/4 turn and lock off. you then set the top lever adjuster.

the guide that everyone goes on about is assuming there is a cable already there and is set as per book. if its a new cable you have to set that first.

[Geodude]

Cheers Bibs I shall 'try' to do it right as you've instructed and now I know its normal to have a bit of movement in the outer cable then maybe I can stop flapping ;) and just get it sorted right. If not I might just start pushing it up to your place so you can fettle it (and me) properly.

[Bibio]

you never adjust the bottom cable adjuster unless the cable stretches (which is never).

once the new cable is installed then the only adjustment made to the cable is the top lever adjuster for doing the lifter mech screw.

[Geodude]

Fanks Bibs, if I was a fit bird i'd be up there to 'thank' you in person :D

[Bibio]

ooohhh one more thing... wind the lifter mech screw out fully (not right out) then set the cable. i forgot about that.... if you dont then you will just keep winding the screw in which will set the lifter mech arm at the wrong angle.

[Geodude]

Ahh reeto ive not been winding it right out only just enough so it wasn't touching then back in and 1/8th turn etc. Ta lovely :)

[Bibio]

lets recap for people reading the thread who have fitted a new cable.

wind the lifter mech adjuster screw right out (but not fully out).
adjust the lever cable adjuster to half way.
take slack out the cable with the bottom cable adjuster.
turn the lever cable adjuster back down so there is slack in the cable.
adjust the lifter mech screw and lock off.
set bite point at lever adjuster.

if doing it my way then as above but leave the lever adjuster where it is then set the lifter mech screw in but dont back out, then set the bite point at the lever adjuster.

[Geodude]

Cheers Bibs, you're awesome :)

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/000/066/552/whos-awesome.jpg