Rear shock on a budget? Better than stock?

[Adam Ef]

I know the rear shocks that are available for about £300 to £350 (YSS etc) aren't going to be amazing and up to the standard of Ohlins etc, but would they still be an improvement over what is increasingly feeling like a solid wooden block of a stock rear shock that I have on my K8?


It's only done just under 13k miles but feels awful and I'm getting really bumped around on all but the best of roads.


I don't really want to take a chance with an old (possibly knackered) GSXR or ZXR shock or mess around with cutting up my bike or have it change height, so although that option would save money I'd rather avoid them.


I really really can't afford or justify the £500 plus shocks available. I just want something that is a bit more responsive and absorbs a bit more of the road imperfections instead of feeling like I'm in a rodeo.


I weigh approx 73kg in the summer and 76kg just after Christmas : ) Only for road riding and I'm not particularly fast.

[glang]

If you search on here I think you'll find that YSS and (perhaps to a lesser extent) Hagon shocks are recommended as great improvements over stock. Obviously you want the correct spring but then, once the adjustments are set up, you wont be able to distinguish them from an Ohlins unless youre a riding god! Of course afterwards the front end will require attention......

[maviczap]

Mines got a hagon shock, not bling, but it was night and day between the OEM. Straight swap no messing about

I had all those issues you're having, until I changed to the Hagon. Cost less than £200 on Ebay, and Hagon can service them if need be.

[Adam Ef]

Thanks guys. I'm definitely not a riding god thankfully.

[Bibio]

if you haven't fettled the front then do that first.

[Ruffy]

...over what is increasingly feeling like a solid wooden block of a stock rear shock that I have on my K8?

It's only done just under 13k miles but feels awful and I'm getting really bumped around on all but the best of roads.
...
Have you stripped and (re)greased the rear linkages recently?

Old shocks tend to lose their damping and go bouncy-bouncy but your description sounds like it's stiffening up, perhaps due to dry bushes beginning to seize? It may only have done 13k miles but it's 10 years since it was put together new, factory assembly lubrication was never generous and rear linkage servicing is often neglected.

[Adam Ef]

Have you stripped and (re)greased the rear linkages recently?

Old shocks tend to lose their damping and go bouncy-bouncy but your description sounds like it's stiffening up, perhaps due to dry bushes beginning to seize? It may only have done 13k miles but it's 10 years since it was put together new, factory assembly lubrication was never generous and rear linkage servicing is often neglected.


It needs a new rear tyre, so was hoping to do all back end stuff at the same time... checking bushes, change shock and change tyre. Just budget is very tight after getting bar conversion done. Trying to hold off and do it all at the same time though.

[Ruffy]

It needs a new rear tyre, so was hoping to do all back end stuff at the same time... checking bushes, change shock and change tyre. Just budget is very tight after getting bar conversion done. Trying to hold off and do it all at the same time though.
Fair enough. I just thought perhaps there was a chance you might be able to defer buying a shock for a while. £0 is good for any budget!

If you can jack the bike up well enough to take weight off the swingarm (abba stand or similar) then checking the linkages shouldn't be that difficult or time consuming. And I'd hate for you to have a mechanic take it all apart only to have them tell you new bushes needed (at extra cost).

In response to your original question, yes I'm pretty sure that a Hagon or YSS will be an improvement compared to stock.




However, my heretic opinion is that a bike doesn't need to be high performance perfect to give enjoyment to the average rider on the road. :rant:
(Takes cover ready for flame wars!)

[Adam Ef]

Fair enough. I just thought perhaps there was a chance you might be able to defer buying a shock for a while. £0 is good for any budget!
...

However, my heretic opinion is that a bike doesn't need to be high performance perfect to give enjoyment to the average rider on the road. :rant:
(Takes cover ready for flame wars!)


Cheers. It's a good reminder that it's also something I need to remember to look into.
I also get a lot of enjoyment out of it in it's current state, so I'd definitely agree. If I can make a bit of an improvement without spending the budget for my kids clothes this year too then all good. I just couldn't justify the expensive shocks available. I'm sure I 'd be better off spending the difference learning to ride it better : )

[Ruffy]

...
I just couldn't justify the expensive shocks available. I'm sure I 'd be better off spending the difference learning to ride it better : )
Agreed. That applies to me too. I'm a very average rider: I make progress but happy to confess that my wife can usually outrun me on her SK5 (17k-ish, on standard shock although I have done emulators/springs at front)

I'm content enough being "ordinary" in riding skill terms. I don't get my kicks from trying to be a racer on the road. Having ridden several other bikes in my time, I am able to notice the improvement from better equipment but it isn't the difference between me now and becoming a TT or GP winner! In the past I've witnessed friends far more skilful than me riding old, stock bikes make fools of others on fancy bikes, too.

[Adam Ef]

+ I'm guessing that progressive or linear spring won't make much difference to me? I'd imagine that linear pecific to me would be better if I get a choice but progressive would be ok?

[Adam Ef]

In the past I've witnessed friends far more skilful than me riding old, stock bikes make fools of others on fancy bikes, too.




This applies to a lot of cycling. I know a couple of riders who can fly up a hill on an old Sturmey 3 speed steel upright bike, leaving all the guys with pro level carbon pushing their bikes behind them.

[Sir Trev]

Have you stripped and (re)greased the rear linkages recently?

Old shocks tend to lose their damping and go bouncy-bouncy but your description sounds like it's stiffening up, perhaps due to dry bushes beginning to seize? It may only have done 13k miles but it's 10 years since it was put together new, factory assembly lubrication was never generous and rear linkage servicing is often neglected.


Another vote for checking your linkages before you shell out for new parts. I stripped my Curvy's rear links at about eight years old and was amazed at how little grease there was in them. Cleaned and properly lubed the back end was much better afterwards, with the OEM shock still in there. New front springs are usually a better first move to improve comfort and riding as Bibs says, unless your rear shock has developed a fault. If it's not leaking or showing signs of damage then checking your links and bearings first is a good start and will isolate the real issue so you can make a better informed decision on the way forward.

[Bibio]

Another vote for checking your linkages before you shell out for new parts. I stripped my Curvy's rear links at about eight years old and was amazed at how little grease there was in them. Cleaned and properly lubed the back end was much better afterwards, with the OEM shock still in there. New front springs are usually a better first move to improve comfort and riding as Bibs says, unless your rear shock has developed a fault. If it's not leaking or showing signs of damage then checking your links and bearings first is a good start and will isolate the real issue so you can make a better informed decision on the way forward.

agreed...

the problems not always what/where you think it is... especially when suspension is concerned.

it takes a good rider to tell exactly what problems they are having with suspension and this is usually gained through knowledge of having good suspension then moving to something with bad suspension. by and large there is nothing wrong with the original shock on the SV unless its past its best.

i would say start with the basics to determine if you NEED to change suspension components. its simple. set the bikes sag up first and ignore any rider sag settings. jump on the bike and note down the rider sag settings. if you fall outwith the recommended rider sag settings then you need to start to change components like springs.

never ever adjust rider sag sizes to compensate. ALWAYS set bike sag and leave it there. the only time you would change this is when occasionally carrying a pillion or loaded up for a trip.

if rider sag settings are wrong then YOU NEED NEW SPRINGS... its that simple. this is also true of fancy expensive suspension as well.

[garynortheast]

Several years back for my 2000 curvy, I bought a set of the cheap emulators (Debrix I think) we obtained here on the org as a group buy. I left the original springs in place, sealed up the appropriate holes in the damper tubes with JB Weld, added fresh oil and put them all back together along with a pair of the pre load adjusters from the later version of the curvy. I just guessed at the preload settings and took general advice on the emulator settings from the org (quite possibly Yorkie Chris). The difference it made to the forks was very noticeable. Gone was the pogo effect when the bike was pushed a bit in the corners, and gone was the infamous fork clonk!
Recently I changed the oil and seals in the forks (long overdue!) and gave them a quick inspection while I was at it. I was pleased to see that the JB Weld was still firmly in place. The oil and seal change freshened the feel of the forks quite nicely, so while I was in the mood I checked the static sag. My guesswork from four or five years previously had been good and the static sag was bang on!

Earlier this year I decided that the back end of the bike was starting to feel a bit off. Not surprising I thought as the original shock is still on the bike and I now have just short of 88,000 miles on the clock (69,000 of those are mine since May 2010). I decided that maybe I would take a look at the rear linkage before doing anything else as I have never taken it off and greased it. As I had a spare rear linkage on the bench, purchased from another orger, I cleaned and serviced it, gave it a good greasing, and fitted it. When I took the old linkage off, it was completely seized! Out for a ride with the newly serviced linkage and the original shock - blimey! What a difference. Proper suspension at the back again.

Now, I know that the prevailing opinion is that these shocks are fekked at 20,000 miles, but I can tell you now that mine still functions well enough with my 11st on board to get me around corners at a rapid pace without wallowing, and to cope with some of the poor road surfaces around here without pogoing. I'm not a racing god, but neither am I a particularly slow rider either. I like my corners and have next to no chicken strips left on my tyres.

I've not yet set the static sag on the rear shock. I jacked up the preload a bit last year to help with the extra weight of carrying a pillion here and there, but I'm guessing it's not far out as the back feels good and doesn't sink too far when either of my daughters climbs on the back.

I have no doubt that a £300 rear shock would make a difference, but the bike handles so well currently that I really don't think it would be £300 worth of improvement. I have seen off much more modern and supposedly better suspended bikes around some of the corners here without having to wrestle with mine, and that says to me that there's not a lot wrong with the suspension on my old curvy.

[Ruffy]

+ I'm guessing that progressive or linear spring won't make much difference to me? I'd imagine that linear pecific to me would be better if I get a choice but progressive would be ok?
I'm sure either can be made to work. However, general consensus seems to be that if you're going to change them, go linear according to your own weight requirements.
(IMHO, "progressive" is a rather generous term, sounding fancier than it is - they are a deliberate compromise by design to cover a wider range of possible rider sizes.)

Also
...
i would say start with the basics to determine if you NEED to change suspension components.
...
I would say this is wise advice.

[Adam Ef]

As mentioned, I am going to check the bearings and swingarm too when I remove the rear wheel for a new tyre. I might swap out the shock at the same time if it's obvious it needs it. Would be great if it was just the swingarm bearings needed some cleaning and grease though.
Castellated nut tool and Abba stand adpators on order. I'll update with a verdict when done.

Thanks for the advice all.

[maviczap]

I think that's why I found when I swapped shocks, it was night and day, as I replaced all the bearings at the same time.

So when I rode it after the swap everything was perfect.

I know the linkage bearings were goosed, and the swingarm bearings were very dry