Super heavy clutch pull (Snapped clutch cable)

[Barney626]

Hi all,

Had my SV for a few years now and it's always had a very heavy clutch. Changed and adjusted the clutch cable many times with no change. Adjusted the worm gear many times with no change.

When the cable is routed through the bike I can easily pull it back and forth by hand so I don't think it's kinked anywhere. When fully installed it snaps back fine and has the correct free play/travel etc.

This morning my clutch cable snapped, it was less than a year old. Could anyone suggest what to investigate to solve this? Been wondering if someone put in aftermarket springs in the past, but would they make it this heavy? (Takes 2 hands to pull in when cold normally)

Cheers

[R1ffR4ff]

This page should help,

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/SV650ClutchLifter.html


When getting a new cable be careful to get one with the correct Radius pipe at the Lever end.


:)

[Barney626]

This page should help,

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/SV650ClutchLifter.html


When getting a new cable be careful to get one with the correct Radius pipe at the Lever end.


:)

Thanks for the reply. Interesting note at the end regarding slinky cables being a problem. From memory the last one I got was from Wemoto who stock the slinky cables.

To be 100% sure I've ordered a different one and will fit it as the replacement to the snapped cable.

I've replaced all the ball bearings in my worm gear and it seems very smooth with no noticeable resistance so fairly sure that's ok.

Will be taking the cover off to have another look later today.

[R1ffR4ff]

Thanks for the reply. Interesting note at the end regarding slinky cables being a problem. From memory the last one I got was from Wemoto who stock the slinky cables.

To be 100% sure I've ordered a different one and will fit it as the replacement to the snapped cable.

I've replaced all the ball bearings in my worm gear and it seems very smooth with no noticeable resistance so fairly sure that's ok.

Will be taking the cover off to have another look later today.

The Slinky Glide I tried was from Wemoto and were great on my old Hondas. I've had great stuff off them over the years especially when I was running Hondas but I had to send the Cable back. I got a near complete refund so no biggy :)

[garynortheast]

When getting a new cable be careful to get one with the correct Radius pipe at the Lever end.
:)

This is not necessarily the case. About three or four years ago the clutch cable on my curvy S failed when the lever end nipple came off. I had a root about in my garage to see if I had a replacement but all I could find was a clutch cable from my old 1986 GSXR400 GK71F. It was the same length and had the same nipples on each end as the SV cable but the pipe at the lever end was more of a small radiussed right angle rather than the wide radius of the SV cable. As it was the same length I fitted it anyway, and was pleased to discover that the clutch was the lightest it had ever been. The bonus was that the radius pipe on the little gixer cable no longer rubbed on the instrument panelling as the SV cable had done.


I have previously tried the slinkyglide cables and wasn’t impressed; it felt heavy and gritty!

Incidentally, the gixer cable is still on my curvy sport and working fine.

[R1ffR4ff]

This is not necessarily the case. About three or four years ago the clutch cable on my curvy S failed when the lever end nipple came off. I had a root about in my garage to see if I had a replacement but all I could find was a clutch cable from my old 1986 GSXR400 GK71F. It was the same length and had the same nipples on each end as the SV cable but the pipe at the lever end was more of a small radiussed right angle rather than the wide radius of the SV cable. As it was the same length I fitted it anyway, and was pleased to discover that the clutch was the lightest it had ever been. The bonus was that the radius pipe on the little gixer cable no longer rubbed on the instrument panelling as the SV cable had done.


I have previously tried the slinkyglide cables and wasn’t impressed; it felt heavy and gritty!

Incidentally, the gixer cable is still on my curvy sport and working fine.

Thanks for the info. I've updated my page to suit as this might only be a problem with the,"N" type non-S versions. My Curvy has the Sit-up-and-Beg position so the levers will be at a different height/position. I bought a cable with the correct Radius and it went back to being slick and kept the old one that came with the bike as a spare under my seat as it was still usable :)

[garynortheast]

Thanks for the info. I've updated my page to suit as this might only be a problem with the,"N" type non-S versions. My Curvy has the Sit-up-and-Beg position so the levers will be at a different height/position. I bought a cable with the correct Radius and it went back to being slick and kept the old one that came with the bike as a spare under my seat as it was still usable :)

Might be worth a look at the 400 Bandit clutch cable. Not sure but I think they are the same only slightly longer.

[Barney626]

So bit of an update, went to fit the replacement clutch cable I ordered and deliberately routed it outside the frame to ensure kinking wasn't an issue. Set it all up but found that the inner cable is too long meaning the tension adjusters couldn't take all tension out the cable.

Went to adjust the worm drive/lift arm by setting all tensioner to 0 and screwing in the central grub screw until I felt contact with the push rod, undid a quarter of a turn. Locked that off then used the tension adjusters to try and get the lift arm at the correct angle as specified by Haynes. Again, I couldn't get enough tension in the cable to lift the arm to the correct angle and get it to engage the clutch enough.

I ordered a supposedly oem cable specifically for the S model I've got and I've had a similar issue in the past with basically every other cable. The bike has handlebars conversion but that shouldn't affect the inner to outer cable length ratio which determines tension. It also has aftermarket levers, wondering if the mount for the cable nipple on those is too close to the outer cable?

Did a bit of further inspection on the worm drive onwards. Found the push rod to be clean, sliding freely and straight. The worm drive didn't have any ball bearings missing and was relatively clean. However I did notice some play in each part as seen in the videos linked below:
https://youtu.be/0HlIIZ6G6NU
https://youtu.be/yGsEeTaKsrI

Not sure if this play is meant to be there or what effect it could have on the system, anyone messed with their worm drive and found this before?

I did manage to rig the cable so it's disengage the clutch mostly and found it to be lighter but still relatively heavy. Wondering if the clutch has aftermarket springs in still....

[Adam Ef]

Always felt the clutch was slightly heavy on my SV when I had it, but put that down partly to the short levers.

[R1ffR4ff]

I can operate my 99 Curvy clutch lever with 2 or 3 fingers so they can be set up nice. Something is not right :(

[Seeker]

It also has aftermarket levers

Is the fulcrum distance the same as for the stock levers?

Here's an article for older Brit bikes but the principles are the same:

https://www.classicbritishspares.com/blogs/news/clutch-and-brake-lever-fulcrum-spacing

[Barney626]

Is the fulcrum distance the same as for the stock levers?

Here's an article for older Brit bikes but the principles are the same:

https://www.classicbritishspares.com/blogs/news/clutch-and-brake-lever-fulcrum-spacing

Hi, don't have original levers to compare with, if someone could give me a measurement of stock levers I could compare them.

Having got the lift arm to roughly the right height the clutch is a lot lighter than it was so fairly sure it was partly down to the adjustment going out of line.

I've got one of those 'clutch cable repair kits' where it gives you nipples you can attached to the end of the inner cable so I'm probably just going to cut the current nipple off and attach the new one in the right place rather than spend 4x the price on an official OEM one again....

[Adam Ef]

Those kits tend to be temporary fixes. The nipple you fix on moves gradually under strain.

[R1ffR4ff]

Hi, don't have original levers to compare with, if someone could give me a measurement of stock levers I could compare them.

Having got the lift arm to roughly the right height the clutch is a lot lighter than it was so fairly sure it was partly down to the adjustment going out of line.

I've got one of those 'clutch cable repair kits' where it gives you nipples you can attached to the end of the inner cable so I'm probably just going to cut the current nipple off and attach the new one in the right place rather than spend 4x the price on an official OEM one again....

Adam is right. I had to use one of those temp ones when I snapped a Clutch cable whilst out on a Group ride. Had to call breakdown and the guy fitted one but warned me to replace it ASAP as he said they will fail in regular use.

This thread is interesting,

https://www.svrider.com/threads/clutch-cable-length.233841/

It's a shame this AD does not show a length as that seems to be the issue,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Suzuki-SV-650-S-Half-Faired-No-ABS-UK-1999-2002-Clutch-Cable-Each/113824267150?hash=item1a80747b8e:g:tZIAAOSwqgFd5VD q

but it has the same Rad pipe as mine and is cheap enough.

[Barney626]

Adam is right. I had to use one of those temp ones when I snapped a Clutch cable whilst out on a Group ride. Had to call breakdown and the guy fitted one but warned me to replace it ASAP as he said they will fail in regular use.

This thread is interesting,

https://www.svrider.com/threads/clutch-cable-length.233841/

It's a shame this AD does not show a length as that seems to be the issue,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Suzuki-SV-650-S-Half-Faired-No-ABS-UK-1999-2002-Clutch-Cable-Each/113824267150?hash=item1a80747b8e:g:tZIAAOSwqgFd5VD q

but it has the same Rad pipe as mine and is cheap enough.

To be specific, I've got an SK5 (2nd Gen) half faired. I fitted the nipple yesterday and got it to fit fine. The cable I ordered claimed to have a part number 58200-17G00.

[Seeker]

The cable I ordered claimed to have a part number 58200-17G00.

If you put that part number into Fowlers search and use the "Linked Bikes" it says it is for the "handlebar without cowling"
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/58200-17G00

The part number you need for an "S" model is 58200-17G10
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/58200-17G10

I couldn't find a UK parts picture for the K5 (2005?) model year so here's a a link to the US Partzilla site: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2005/sv650s/handlebar-with-cowling

One side note - the £45 cable in the UK only costs $22 (£17) in the US

[R1ffR4ff]

To be specific, I've got an SK5 (2nd Gen) half faired. I fitted the nipple yesterday and got it to fit fine. The cable I ordered claimed to have a part number 58200-17G00.

I would get a 2nd opinion from a trusted small local Motorcycle shop as you say the Bars have been modified. They might be able to give you some info. My old M/C MOT mech used to make custom Choppers and knew his stuff on modifications/cable routing etc.

HTH :)

[Bibio]

do you have aftermarket CNC levers by chance?

if so check that the bolt hole in the lever is the same size as the bolt. sometimes the levers have a brass bush that falls out and causes lots of play and causes it to bite into the cable making it snap after about a year or two. check the slot that the cable moves in where the nipple is for signs of wear as an indicator of it binding.

the clutch part number you have put up is for the SV650N not the S, they are not interchangeable due to the length.

those vids you posted show that your worm drive is fubar.. you need a new one. the lever on the worm drive should not move like that. i have had better condition ones that the one you have that i have had to replace.

i take it you cleaned the wormdrive of grease before you posted the vids to show the movement and wear?

i use slinky cables and they are great.

[Barney626]

do you have aftermarket CNC levers by chance?

if so check that the bolt hole in the lever is the same size as the bolt. sometimes the levers have a brass bush that falls out and causes lots of play and causes it to bite into the cable making it snap after about a year or two. check the slot that the cable moves in where the nipple is for signs of wear as an indicator of it binding.

the clutch part number you have put up is for the SV650N not the S, they are not interchangeable due to the length.

those vids you posted show that your worm drive is fubar.. you need a new one. the lever on the worm drive should not move like that. i have had better condition ones that the one you have that i have had to replace.

i take it you cleaned the wormdrive of grease before you posted the vids to show the movement and wear?

i use slinky cables and they are great.

Holes in the levers are a good fit so no play.

I'll try to source a new worm drive. I cleaned/greased it after the video before I put it all back in, it does feel a lot better now but the bike does have 50k miles on it so not surprised the worm drive is finished.

[shiftin_gear98]

The clutch on my old SV was always really heavy, hand cramp inducing.
I changed the cable for an S specific version, ok it was a Venhill cable (I think) but I too found the internal cable to be way too long, I even had to get creative with the barrel off of the old cable as there wasn't enough adjustment in the lever and worm drive to compensate. (I cut a slot in the old barrel so the new cable could go through it and use it as a spacer). It worked like this for a year or so. Until I had to look at another cable due to cable stretch and had run out of adjustment again. So I bought a genuine Suzuki cable correct for my bike.
And it was exactly the same - it was still too long!! WTF. So I bodged it again.

I also bought a brand new Genuine Lever, none of the above helped with the heavy lever action.

(My GSXR although older than the SV by 4 years is way lighter)

Good Luck sorting yours.

[Flybuster]

Mine is a first gen curvy. I find the clutch quite heavy and actually painful after an hour or so. Less if town riding. I have an aftermarket lever but it looks like an oem, in size, but is carbon fibre look. I replaced the worm gear and cable with a Wemoto one and it fitted no problem. The clutch didn't really get lighter but the action and gear changes did get smoother.
I've tried re-routing and lubricating the cable, which probably helped long term but with no immediate difference.

Mind I'm no where near needing 2 hands to pull it in.

[mikerj]

The grooves in the actuator mechanism wear, and even with new balls they don't work so well. The clutch on my fathers curvy was uncomfortably heavy despite a new cable and a cleaned, greased and correctly adjusted actuator, so he shelled out for a new actuator and it transformed the feel and weight of the clutch.