SV 650 'S' clipon, to handle bars conversion, what options? [Archive] - SV650.org

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themib

11-06-04, 10:00 PM

SV 650 'S' clipon, to handle bars conversion, what options?

My Girl has a year 2000 UK SV650 S faired UK model.

She likes the fairing, but the bars are a slight stretch.
She prefers the riding position of the unfaired model.

So if possible I would like to mod the bike to the unfaired riding position.

I guess this has been done before?
If so are there any 'how to' guides?
Any suppliers supplying parts?
Is there any screen or fairing mods required, 'not preferable!.

Sorry if this has been covered before, any help appreciated by us both!

MIB

ophic

11-06-04, 10:04 PM

there are handlebar risers and footpeg er... lowers? available, but a full conversion into a naked bike is probably prohibitively costly. You might be better off selling it a buying a naked.

themib

11-06-04, 10:28 PM

there are handlebar risers and footpeg er... lowers? available, but a full conversion into a naked bike is probably prohibitively costly. You might be better off selling it a buying a naked.

No, Want to keep fairing, but have raised bars.
Hopefully without too much screen or fairing cutting.

Will raiding non faired parts bin work? with longer cables?

Viney

11-06-04, 10:41 PM

BURNER

12-06-04, 12:58 PM

Cheapest way is to drill the standard top yoke and bolt risers to it. M & P and the usual suspects for them. Fit braided hoses and throttle, choke cables from naked model. Clutch cable looks long enough, plus Suzuki keeps costs down by adapting as many parts as possible across the range. So most cables should be OK, check by mounting all switch gear to a set of handlebars and then make mock risers from some wood. A block of wood 2" high and 2 conduit saddles from B&Q should be a good mock up. Then you can sort cables that need to be replaced and get the riding position spot on before making changes that will affect re-sale.

Cloggsy

12-06-04, 01:11 PM

How about these :?:

http://www.cliponrisers.com/Photos%20of%20risers_files/My%20bike/reaar.JPG

http://www.cliponrisers.com/Photos%20of%20risers_files/My%20bike/right.JPG

http://www.cliponrisers.com/Photos%20of%20risers_files/2003%20images/bike%20overview.JPG

http://www.cliponrisers.com/Photos%20of%20risers_files/image031.jpg

http://www.cliponrisers.com/Photos%20of%20risers_files/image034.jpg

http://www.cliponrisers.com/images/Engraving.JPG

Saves any drilling, any cutting of Fairing etc. I don't even think you need new cables :D

Click here (http://www.cliponrisers.com/) for further details :wink:

P.S. Quote the web-site (sv650.org) if/when you contact him :wink:

themib

17-06-04, 07:56 PM

Yes. You need the top yoke and a set of bars. Idealy you would also need cables. Then you need to do a bit of cutting to the faring.

I found this bike at the Mayday run earlier this year.

http://server5.uploadit.org/files/viney71-flatbars.jpg

Looks good,
Which top yolk, bars and raisers are those?
Did you cut screen andfairing or just screen?

Thanks for all the replies so far, looks like a mini winter project for me!

Johnboy

30-06-04, 11:15 PM

Well if its any use, I'm in the process of switching to handlebars. I have managed to source a top yoke and risers from an unfaired model and have bought some semi-raised bars.

Having read others experiences on SVRIDER.COM it would appear that by rerouting cables, you only need to find a longer brake line down to the 'splitter' on the bottom yoke. This would depend on bar height

I'm told that PIRTEK (in yellow pages or on the www) will make up brakelines to order you specify the length and type of fittings and were reasonably priced

I will let you know how I get on and post some pictures - if it works out that is!!! :?

Alaniski

01-07-04, 07:22 AM

JohnBoy, Please keep us posted as to how you 'operation' goes . . .

I have a mate who is looking to buy a bike, and he really likes the SVs . . .only problem is he is very very tall(6 foot 9) so raised handlebars and lowered footpegs might be of some advantage!

Cloggsy

01-07-04, 07:35 AM

Johnboy

16-08-04, 11:01 PM

Well, I'd like to say it was a doddle :( , but after a few minor set backs it is finally done. :D

The problems were numerous, and compromises had to be accepted.
In no particular order or emphasis these were:

Longer brake line to the 'splitter' was made up by my local accessories shop and the alignment of the banjos were frustating. (I may replace the whole lot with a set of BSR lines over the winter)

Fabricating a bracket from a mirror mount for the master cylinder reservoir was time consuming and a bit hit and miss, but turned out ok in the end.

I settled for some 'Vincent Straights' bars which although they only raise you about halfway, avoided having to hack the fairing about.

I bought a new flip up screen which had to be cut to shape, again time consuming as you have to cover the whole screen in masking tape to prevent scratches while shaping. Unfortunately a half inch crack resulted in a 'revised' shape which reduced the flip up effect.
The screen didn't quite fit the fairing anyway so a bit more fine tuning was necessary.

The cables were ok although the clutch cable is right on the limit at full right lock.

The top yoke off an unfaired SV sits lower and exposes about 4-5mm of fork tube and a spacer had to be made for the yoke top nut.

The whole process has taken several weeks with a fortnight break in the middle and I guess around £90 - £100.

It rides nicely, a better test when I take it to the Manx GP at the end of the month. Would I do again? Probably, but it would have been easier to sell it and buy an unfaired in the first place.

Not a bad exercise overall though, and if I can figure out how I'll post some pictures on here too. :roll:

viner

04-10-04, 12:22 PM

:lol: :lol: :lol: Just got the 2004 Busters catalogue and on page126 are a set of RAASK handlebar raisers available to fit 33 35 36 37 38 40 and 41 diameter forks. They retail at £35.00 which seems a bloody bargain to me. Only prob is you have to have at least an inch of fork showing above top yoke for these to clamp to. Busters web site is www.busters-accessories.co.uk
Hope this of help to anyone

BURNER

09-03-05, 07:51 PM

Anybody got the 2005 Busters catalogue yet?

admin

09-03-05, 10:10 PM

I've just fitted sunrisers. I'm working on an article for next month.

Here's some teasers

http://www.sv650.org/SV_restore/IMG_3236.jpg

http://www.sv650.org/SV_restore/IMG_3234.jpg

http://www.sv650.org/SV_restore/IMG_3242.jpg

The job is now complete and a quick test ride last weekend put a big smile on my face.

John

amarko5

09-03-05, 11:33 PM

Very nice john (but how many hands have u got ? 4 ) :P

did you have any probs with cables.

ohh and you must have very small hands for the last pictures cutdown clipons :P

only kiddin :lol:

jonacol

10-03-05, 07:39 AM

From the other side of the coin, I'm considering putting clip-ons to my naked, anyone got a pair going spare?

admin

10-03-05, 08:30 PM

did you have any probs with cables.

ohh and you must have very small hands for the last pictures cutdown clipons

I had to remove the wiring loom guide that sits around the ignition key barrel. It gave the wiring a bit more slack. Throttle and clutch cables seem fine. Choke cable had to be re-routed to the other side of the fork leg.

Biggest problem is the front brake pipe. You will need a longer top hose. I chose to replace all the brake lines with a twin line setup, so no splitter.

I took these photos to show readers the height difference. It's harder to see once the old bars have been hacked off.

John

extensive

11-03-05, 12:21 AM

here is my write up on the sunrisers

http://students.cup.edu/rep9319/pages/sv/svtutrisers.htm

Cloggsy

11-03-05, 09:09 AM

here is my write up on the sunrisers

http://students.cup.edu/rep9319/pages/sv/svtutrisers.htm

Good guide :thumbsup:

extensive

11-03-05, 04:19 PM

thanks.

:D

xianbei

07-07-07, 04:36 AM

greetings

What about lowering the yolk on the forks? Talking to an old rider, he brought this up as a solution to my sub-90mph complaints.

It seems like you should be able to lower the yolk about 3cm and move the clip-on S-handle bars above the yolk.

Any thoughts?