RACE GEARING QUESTION

[svphi311]

Can anyone recommend a good sprocket setup for the race track? I am going to primarily run Sears Point, Thunderhill, and Buttonwillow with the AFM. I have the stock ratio now and was thinking about dropping some teeth on the rear sprocket. ANY SUGGESTIONS? ANYONE RUN THESE TRACKS? Any help is appreciated.

[svphi311]

DOES ANYONE RACE IN HERE??? HAS ANYONE GEARED THEIR BIKE DOWN?

[chris SVK3]

I dont race on track but i found 46T rear really made a huge difference comming out of the corners

[carelesschucca]

I'll second that... A 46 tooth back sprocket is a great mod!!!

[SV650Racer]

On my race bike is use a combination of:

14 or 15 front
44/45/46 rear.

Gearing is a personal thing and not knowing what those tracks are like id start with the standard setup and then spend a day testing the different combinations. Obviously a 15/44 would work at a track with long straights and a higher corner speed. 14/46 would be better for short twisty tracks that need grunt from the corners.

try the standard and then gear depending on whether the bike is revving out at any point. If your flat in top and need more top end then drop a tooth off the rear. But some people use only 4 or 5 gears and not six..so best is to book a test day at a fairly flowing circuit that has all the variables and go from there.

Then again some people racing in the same series as me over here have run the standard gearing all year...and had plenty of top five finishes...

[Dicky Ticker]

SV Racer I was asking about changing the front sprocket and keeping the rear as standard simply because it seems less hassle What would you recommend for A and B roads with as many twisties as I can find but still keeping a top end in the 120 region

Mac

[chris SVK3]

drop to 14t on the front sprocket but IMO the rear sprocket is not that hard to do plus you can have a shiney gold one which people can see and that will always make you faster.

[Dicky Ticker]

Chris, I suppose you are probably right as I have a copperK3 with goldie engine bolts,at least it will all match Now looks like a copper/black and gold SV

[jonboy]

If you put a smaller sprocket on the front you put a lot more strain on the chain whereas on the rear it won't make any difference and it's also easier to do. You'd be more than happy (I suggest) with a 46 tooth rear.

The only problem with lowering the gearing is that you're forever trying to change up into seventh ;).


.

[lairylarry]

Not knowing the circuits, its hard to say. If you're after the least possible hassle, go for 14/45 and maybe change to 15/45 for the tracks with very long straights.

This works ok for most tracks over here, but a 44 would be good for some tracks. If you get hold of a second sprocket hanger, then changing them is a piece of ****.

[northwind]

If you're getting into weight saving then the difference in weight between the stock rear sprocket and, say, a Renthal hardened aluminium one is noticable... Wouldn't like to say how much, I never weighed them, but it was easily noticable without looking for it. And it's unsprung, rotating mass which is what people get all excited about :)

While I'm on that subject, some folks swear by the weight reduction possible going to a 520 chain and sprockets from 525... Also 520 parts are cheaper. But I've not done it myself so you'd need to find someone who has to see if it actually works, personally I think there's a lot of rubbish talked on the subject of weight reduction (like the guy who can power wheelie in 5th since he fitted wavy discs, or the guy who took half a second off his 1/4 mile by fitting 520s with no other mods :roll: )