Strange noise

[steveo]

There is a weird ticking noise on my bike. It is not linked to the chain/gearbox as it does it when the bike is in neutral. Its almost like a clock tick and seems to increase in frequency as the revs rise ( i think :oops: ). I think it has become more prominent since i changed the exhaust at the weekend, probably because the exhaust noise is now so different to the engine noise whereas it all used to blend into one.

Is this normal or is it something i should get checked out?

Cheers

Steve

[mysteryjimbo]

Cam chain??

[steveo]

And the noise is normal or it is signifying there is a problem? To be honest although i have heard of the cam chain i have very little idea of how it works :oops:

Sorry i would have a look in the on site manual but work internet blocks access to the main site yet lets me on the forums.

[mysteryjimbo]

My basic understanding is that it is the way to link the two overhead cams of the engine (through the V shape, down to the middle and up). I think they run over the valves/springs closing them again. I'm no engineer see.....

They run on automatic tensioners which sometimes stick, if the chain isnt tensioned it'll rattle/tick. Apparently its easy to unstick them with a screw driver.

[steveo]

Hmmm, this doesn't sound too good, now i'm concerned. Does anyone know where i should wiggle the screwdriver around to unstick them?

[mysteryjimbo]

Hmmm, this doesn't sound too good, now i'm concerned. Does anyone know where i should wiggle the screwdriver around to unstick them?

It's quite normal, just a little noisy from time to time.

[steveo]

Ok, cheers, won't worry too much about them then although i may get it checked out next time i am back home down at P&H.

[mysteryjimbo]

Ok, cheers, won't worry too much about them then although i may get it checked out next time i am back home down at P&H.

I wouldnt worry either.

From what i can gather there is a silver cap/bolt on the top of each head of the engine that you take of and stick a flathead screwdriver in and flex the chain tensioner out and let it spring back in.

[jump]

i recently had a scorpion fitted and i hear the same... like a very faint tick tick.. almost a whishper but it its there...

[steveo]

Yeah, thats the one, mine has just seemed to get more noticeable recently. As i say i think its partly because of the different noise the can makes which means you notice it more.

The scorpion pipes are good though aren't they, lovely when it pops on the overrun, mainly when slowing down at around 3-3.5 revs in third. :D

[UncleBob]

Ok, cheers, won't worry too much about them then although i may get it checked out next time i am back home down at P&H.

Good luck, they were bloody useless with me... :evil:

[steveo]

Really? I've been in there three times now, once to get the bike checked over, then to buy some gloves and finally i bought my exhaust from there. They seemed helpful and knowledgeable every time.

[northwind]

Which version of the SV is it?

Old ones, you can fix that dead easily (I'll not claim credit for this, it was Rictus posted how to do it first I think) with a 10mm bolt and a wee #2 or #3 flat screwdriver bit. Ideally, a small sidearmed ratchet screwdriver (the sort that works like a ratchet spanner with a handle sticking out the side, I got mine in Maplin and it's fantastic for stuff like this)

http://i2.ebayimg.com/02/i/03/58/61/70_1_b.JPG

This is what the cam chain tensioner adjuster looks like. You'll find it by lifting the tank, removing the airbox, and looking under the frame brace that runs across near the carbs- on the left hand side of the bike as you sit on it. there's one on the rear but it never seems to get noisy as it has a much better oil supply.

Basically, remove the 10mm bolt in the top- NOT the allen bolts! Stick your wee ratchet screwdriver in the hole in the top and turn it clockwise till it won't turn no more, then release it. i do this a few times. This seems to free the tensioner body up.

The hardest part is access- it's fiddly to get to. We did Jimmy's bike the other day and it took about 10 minutes to get the bolt back on, since we did it without removing the carbs "to make it easy" :roll:

AFAIK the problem won't develop past noise anyway, a few people have replaced the tensioners but most folsk just live with it I think. This at least makes it go away for a while.

[steveo]

Ahh, i was hoping the 'King of Cams' would turn up. Its a K3 so not sure if its the same as yours. I was mainly concerned that it was something that i shouldn't be riding the bike with but if its just noise then thats not too bad. At revs the can pretty much drowns it out anyway :twisted:

The bike needs its 7k service shortly so i may just mention it when it goes in for that.

Cheers for the help though, appreciated.

Steve

[northwind]

The tensioner body's different for the K3 I'm afraid... There might be an equivalent fix for that but I don't know what it'd be.

King of Cams? I like that :) Not very accurate, King of Stealing Other People's Ideas would fit though!

[embee]

I think it has become more prominent since i changed the exhaust at the weekend

could it be a simple as a very slight leak at the joint? They can sometimes sound rather as you describe. :?:

[Graham]

Be very very carefull if you intend to fiddle with them. The whole guts of the tensioner is only held in with a thin wire clip, so if you try and tighten it by turning anticlockwise it can pop out resulting in the whole lot disappearing into your engine.
If you do as Northwind suggests make sure you position the engine at TDC on each cylinder before backing the tensioner off.
Having said all that It's a waste of time.
I have replaced both tensioners to find the new ones exactly the same(No diference in the noise at all)
I then fitted manual adjusters, Tightened them with the engine running to the point where I can actually stall the engine, BUT STILL THAT SAME EFFIN NOISE.
Apparently it's the camchains that are stuffed and making the noise, Which is too bloody expensive

[Iansv]

Think mines just started ticking.... Started yesterday, new noise i've not noticed before, Will get a 2nd opinion tho next time I meet up with someone

[weegaz22]

I think it has become more prominent since i changed the exhaust at the weekend

could it be a simple as a very slight leak at the joint? They can sometimes sound rather as you describe. :?:

as embee says check around the headers at the head for a leak, if its leaking you will hear the exhaust valve which sounds like ticking

[steveo]

Noticed its blowing slightly where the new link pipe joins the old exhaust so it may be that. Haven't got the tools with me to tighten it up though :oops:

[northwind]

Be very very carefull if you intend to fiddle with them. The whole guts of the tensioner is only held in with a thin wire clip, so if you try and tighten it by turning anticlockwise it can pop out resulting in the whole lot disappearing into your engine.
If you do as Northwind suggests make sure you position the engine at TDC on each cylinder before backing the tensioner off.
Having said all that It's a waste of time.

Right, lets take this from the top…

1) The cam chain tensioner adjuster is designed to be operated in exactly this way- it is impossible to fit it (without seriously endangering the cam chain) without retracting it. The service manual required that it be backed out in exactly the way described, and held with a service tool which is designed to hold the cam chain tensioner adjuster fully retracted- exactly what we’re doing with the screwdriver, in fact. So you’re actually doing exactly what the adjuster body is designed to do, and it won’t “pop out”.

This actually means that retracting the cam chain adjusters is part of routine servicing- it’s necessary for changing valve shims if that becomes necessary.

2) There’s absolutely no merit to doing it at TDC. With the tensioner body removed, there is no risk of jumping time or having the chain fall from a sprocket unless there’s movement introduced from outside- ie you turn the engine over, push the bike in gear or move the cam chain manually. With the valve covers off and thecam towers removed you can observe this yourself- backing off and releasing the adjuster will not cause significant movement in the cam chain. Don’t take my word for it- take the covers off and watch what’s going on inside

In any case, you’ll not be checking the timing before you restart it anyway so even if, as he suggests, there’s a risk of jumping time, he doesn’t suggest any way of checking if this has happened before you restart…

3)Since it works, it’s evidently not a waste of time- it doesn’t always last for long, but on one occasion it lasted for 2000 miles until I changed my cams, and would probably have been good for longer. OTOH, the first timei did it, it lasted for about a week and the noise returned. It seems that repeating the procedure lengthens the period for which it helps.

I’d suspect that Graham’s fault may be different, and so wouldn’t be solved by this procedure, which has worked in a lot of bikes on the group here and on SV Rider (where it was checked out by the usual suspects who could carve an SV engine out of wood if they felt the urge)