Newbie with a problem

[Hulsey]

Hi all.
Been lurking around the site for a while and have to say top site, full of useful stuff from knowledgeable people. I bought a 2001 curvy beauty in september after passing my test in august and have loved it to bits. Not having much experience I decided not to be a hard man and try to ride it through the ice and snow of winter so its been mostly dormant since the start of feb. Its been connected up to an optimate in the garage and started every two weeks but today refused blind to start. Various bump methods were used with no success then I noticed that when I tried to start it in gear, as it chugged, the bike was pulling away with it, with the clutch still fully in. Adjusted the clutch cable at the lever out to its max but it still pulled along. I've checked that the cable isn't fouling on anything. Also it won't engage second at all, and I had to stamp to get it in first. Something is obviously seized but I don't know where to start checking. I think I'll have a go at making a cable oiler like Mr Haynes suggests. Any suggestions if that doesnt work?

Its a 51 registered blue faired model with 5000 miles on the clock. The previous owner had obviously serviced it himself as its in good nick with fairly newish looking oil and air filters, leads, plugs and tyres so there's no entry in the service history after its initial 700 mile service. I think its time to bite the bullet and drop it in for a service.[/b]

[jonboy]

Does it turn over (at all)? If not, check your Kill Switch hasn't been knocked into the off position (we've all done it). Second check the clutch/starter interlock connection which is found just underneath the lefthand bar controls - it's a little plug that sometimes comes loose from it's connector.

Other than that I'll let someone else second guess.


.

[Sid Squid]

There's most likely nothing wrong with the clutch, with the engine and oil cold there can be quite a lot of clutch drag, it's nothing to worry about, and it accounts for the 'clunk' as you put it into gear for the first time with a cold engine, it's most unlikely that anything is seized and if the clutch action - the lever movement - is smooth, then oiling the cable will not be of any benefit, make sure it's properly adjusted though, after your having wound the adjuster right up, you may end up with clutch slip or, if or it's left with too lilttle slack for any amount of time, damage to the clutch release bearing and associated parts.

As for the not starting, it's been sitting for a while and it's cold, if it doesn't start promptly there is a good chance that it will flood, that is unburnt fuel makes the cylinder wet and often fouls the plugs too, if they're wet it may be possible to start if it's just left a while to dry, if they're fouled they'll need cleaning. Depending on how the conditions under which it has been stored and long it is since it was run and, there may be fuel contamination and perhaps even fuel degradation, empty the carbs first and be prepared to chuck away the fuel too.

[embee]

If it's been on the Optimate, I assume the battery is well charged and it's cranking at a reasonably quick speed. Don't try to start it in gear, the clutch drag is just loading up the starter motor even more.

Try not to "stamp" on the gear lever, it shouldn't need it and there's a risk of bending something.

Without the engine running, if you rock the bike backwards and forwards (without the clutch pulled in) you should be able to click it into each gear with just light pressure on the pedal. You need to rock it so that the gearbox internals are moving and the "dogs" can engage. If it'll do that then there's no problem.

Adjust the clutch mechanism down at the g/box sprocket first, then set the cable with a couple of mm free play. Don't condemn it until you've started and warmed the engine, worked the clutch a few times, and then tried to engage gear once warm. Manuals here
http://www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm

As Sid says, you may just have wetted the plugs. It's not a good idea to do too many cold starts on engines not in regular use, I limit it to once a month. Get it off choke as soon as you can once started and then hold the revs steady at 3k or so until it warms up. Avoid "blipping" the throttle as this is far more likely to give plug fouling.

The fuel in the carbs may have gone stale (basically the volatile parts evaporate and the remainder starts to oxudise etc). You need fresh volatile fuel to get easy starting. You can drain the carbs relatively easily. Lift the tank, remove airbox, down between the carbs there are a couple of hex socket screws in the sides of the float bowls, which you can "just" get an allen key into. You only need to undo them a turn or 2, the fuel will drain out of the bottom (catch it in a bowl or similar).

While in there, check the plugs (at least the back one, which is easy). Clean and dry it, or heat the engine end of the plug over a flame to dry it off.

Add some fresh fuel to the tank and try again, remember it'll take a few goes at cranking to pump fresh fuel in to fill the carbs again. Don't crank for longer than about 10sec at a time (the starter motor gets hot).

[Hulsey]

Thanks for your help and advice. I'm going to try draining the carbs, cleaning the plugs and put fresh fuel in today so will let you know how I get on. Cheers

[Hulsey]

Nice one embee! Managed to drain the carbs, caught most of the fuel with tissues stuffed in the gaps. Also cleaned the air filter (for the sake of using my new compressor) whilst the airbox was off, cleaned the plugs, which seemed to be dark black and wet, but runny wet rather than oily wet and dried them. Emptying the tank was fun, sucking mostly fumes through a tube really isn't good for your head, so I removed the tank completely and tipped it out into a bucket. There was a bit of detritus in the fuel but not much. There was still a small amount of petrol left in that no amount of angling and shaking would remove. There was also the sound of some solid things rattling round, one of which I know is a Datatag transpondery type thing, the others I'm not sure. Anyway put it all back together and popped a few of litres of optimax in and it fired up on about the sixth or seventh crank. Let it run with it on my paddock stand and slipped it into gear (after having earlier rocked it as you described and snicking gears without the clutch) and it was turning the rear wheel with the clutch fully in. A few goes later it was working properly so took it for a quick spin and all was fine.

Thanks again for you help mate I appreciate it.

[embee]

Good news! :wink:

As for the rattly tank, I think the fuel level switch will probably rattle if you shake it. :lol:

[Biker Biggles]

It probably wont work now either :!: