riding with high preload

[adamfool]

took a rather 'rotund' friend out pillion yesterday so before i rode over to pick him up i turned the preload to six. On the way to his the bike felt so different, much more taut and responsive to input in the corners. Now i'm not a big fella (11 and a half stone) so i was wondering if there are any negative sides to riding with the preload obviously too high for my body weight?

[BillyC]

You didn't have it on the stock settings before did you? Possibly the worst option available! :lol:

Yup, the minute you change the preloads, the bike changes personality - for a better one. It stops being lazy, and becomes taught and agile. I never went back!

[Sid Squid]

Are you sure the rear preload was set suitably for you prior to your changing it for your pillion?
The obvious positives are what you have experienced; lighter steering and easier turn in through decreased trail and steering angle, and thus a slightly 'sharper' feel, the possible negatives are less high speed stability, (note; not unstable, just less, in your situation it will very likely still be within acceptable limits), and a possibility of oversteer, that is; with a given steering input the bike will now turn more, fine when you're used to it, can be surprising if you're not, some people find this 'twitchy', and some find that hard braking doesn't feel so comfortable, as the bike can feel a bit 'front endy'.
At the rear, if under 'normal' riding conditions you're near the top of the suspension's travel there will be less suspension extension left available to deal with road irregularities, so there is a possibility of less grip in some circumstances.
To allow the rear suspension to do it's job properly set the preload so that the back of the bike sags very approximately 35mm when sat normally in your normal riding attire, if you'd like to sharpen the steering a bit, rather than set the rear shock at other than a suitable setting, try shorter suspension links or dropping the yokes down the forks a bit.
In reality with a modern bike, wearing standard bits, it it's actually quite difficult to set anything that will put the bike outside acceptable handling characteristics, that doesn't mean that it can't be set at it's most suitable for your use, and remember suspension and steering are areas in which small changes can make big differences, keep in mind that there is no such thing as 'right', whatever you're happy with is right.

[Ceri JC]

Are you sure the rear preload was set suitably for you prior to your changing it for your pillion?
The obvious positives are what you have experienced; lighter steering and easier turn in through decreased trail and steering angle, and thus a slightly 'sharper' feel, the possible negatives are less high speed stability, (note; not unstable, just less, in your situation it will very likely still be within acceptable limits), and a possibility of oversteer, that is; with a given steering input the bike will now turn more, fine when you're used to it, can be surprising if you're not, some people find this 'twitchy', and some find that hard braking doesn't feel so comfortable, as the bike can feel a bit 'front endy'.
At the rear, if under 'normal' riding conditions you're near the top of the suspension's travel there will be less suspension extension left available to deal with road irregularities, so there is a possibility of less grip in some circumstances.
To allow the rear suspension to do it's job properly set the preload so that the back of the bike sags very approximately 35mm when sat normally in your normal riding attire, if you'd like to sharpen the steering a bit, rather than set the rear shock at other than a suitable setting, try shorter suspension links or dropping the yokes down the forks a bit.
In reality with a modern bike, wearing standard bits, it it's actually quite difficult to set anything that will put the bike outside acceptable handling characteristics, that doesn't mean that it can't be set at it's most suitable for your use, and remember suspension and steering are areas in which small changes can make big differences, keep in mind that there is no such thing as 'right', whatever you're happy with is right.

I completely agree with the above- having tinkered with my suspension recently, it's amazing the difference even minor adjustments make to the handling/feedback. I've firmed mine up a notch front and rear (I'm 14 stone in my gear) and it's like a new bike. As Sid says, takes a bit of getting used to with the forks not diving as much under heavy braking, but other than that, it's tops. It's also very quick and easy to do and something I'd recommend everyone tries.

[coombest]

I was a similar weight to you when I adjusted my SV's suspension.
I weighed about 10 stone before I put my kit on, so around the 11 stone mark with it on, I reckon.

I had the rear preload up to one below top and the front had 2 rings showing. Any more was 'orrible and any less was slow to turn and equally as 'orrible! :lol:

[adamfool]

Are you sure the rear preload was set suitably for you prior to your changing it for your pillion?
The obvious positives are what you have experienced; lighter steering and easier turn in through decreased trail and steering angle, and thus a slightly 'sharper' feel, the possible negatives are less high speed stability, (note; not unstable, just less, in your situation it will very likely still be within acceptable limits), and a possibility of oversteer, that is; with a given steering input the bike will now turn more, fine when you're used to it, can be surprising if you're not, some people find this 'twitchy', and some find that hard braking doesn't feel so comfortable, as the bike can feel a bit 'front endy'.
At the rear, if under 'normal' riding conditions you're near the top of the suspension's travel there will be less suspension extension left available to deal with road irregularities, so there is a possibility of less grip in some circumstances.
To allow the rear suspension to do it's job properly set the preload so that the back of the bike sags very approximately 35mm when sat normally in your normal riding attire, if you'd like to sharpen the steering a bit, rather than set the rear shock at other than a suitable setting, try shorter suspension links or dropping the yokes down the forks a bit.
In reality with a modern bike, wearing standard bits, it it's actually quite difficult to set anything that will put the bike outside acceptable handling characteristics, that doesn't mean that it can't be set at it's most suitable for your use, and remember suspension and steering are areas in which small changes can make big differences, keep in mind that there is no such thing as 'right', whatever you're happy with is right.
thank's alot for this post :D
will get the girlfriend out with a tape measure in a bit..... (misquoters enjoy...)

[Ceri JC]

thank's alot for this post :D
will get the girlfriend out with a tape measure in a bit..... (misquoters enjoy...)

I don't see the need to mis-quote that for it to be funny :D

[adamfool]

thank's alot for this post :D
will get the girlfriend out with a tape measure in a bit..... (misquoters enjoy...)

I don't see the need to mis-quote that for it to be funny :D :lol: :wink:

[Patch]

Actually there are significant downsides to over setting the Pre load as well but on a standard shock you are not likely to be able to get to them.

I have an Ohlins on the VFR and I asked for the Mechanical preload to be adjusted so that the remote preload would be able to cope with pillion and full luggage (ohlins factory settings are a little on the soft side).

The job was over done and it was impossible for me to get the sag correct and riding the bike was bloody dangerous. The rear shock needs to have "upward movement" abailable and its the sag that gives it this, no sag = no upward movement = **** handling.

Set the sag correctly within tolerances, harder is not necessarily better.

[northwind]

Personally I've found that with such basic adjustment as the SV gives you, trial and error is a pretty effective way of getting a good setup. Not everyone agrees but it worked very well for me.

Worked pretty badly at first with the Ohlins rear, since I had 3 sets of adjustment to **** up though :)

[Xan173]

Doh!

I've read and re-read the posts on pre-load and am still confused on this one point... As a general rule of thumb should the preload amount be increased or decreased as the rider/pillion weight increases?

[BillyC]

Doh!

I've read and re-read the posts on pre-load and am still confused on this one point... As a general rule of thumb should the preload amount be increased or decreased as the rider/pillion weight increases?


Preload should be increased as rider weight increases... you are looking to tighten the spring to extend the shock height- ready to be compressed by the extra weight.