View Full Version : Rear wheel speedo drive fix walkthrough
northwind
23-06-05, 10:28 PM
I did this a while back but I kept it quiet until I'd done the front end swap :) As you might have heard, it's possible to run the carbed bike's speedo off the rear axle with a little, as they're both 17mm axles. This is ideal if you want to change the front end, and also bizarrely makes the speedo drive more accurate :) The idea's been floated about on SoCalSV a few times but not many people have actually done it, and every example I've seen of it being done has been basically bodged and tends to be very unreliable... So I decided to document it properly when I did it, and also refined the process for better results and for reliability. I've got it in the form of a .doc with images since I suck at the internet, but I was wondering if anyone would be able to host it or if it could be posted into the main site somewhere?
In the meantime, if anyone wants the walkthrough drop me a PM or an email and I'll send it to you. It's a really nice fix (if I may say so :))
Carsick
23-06-05, 11:35 PM
If you send a copy to me at michael.carrick at carsick.me.uk then I'll do an html version for you and post a link back.
Or I can turn it into a PDF if you like.
.
Carsick
24-06-05, 08:48 AM
Or I can turn it into a PDF if you like.
.
HTML will be smaller and faster to load, but it's not an issue for me, just an offer.
*objects to everything becoming unstructured pdf when we have perfectly good markup languages available*
northwind
24-06-05, 06:44 PM
Cheers Carsick, I'll take you up on that, got a couple more photos to add and a wee bit of editing but I'll be in touch soon. Cheers also Jonboy!
sv_rory
19-12-08, 12:46 PM
im goint to start to fit this over the eekend. please could somebody advise me what to do
Dangerous Dave
19-12-08, 01:00 PM
Interesting how this chap (see link below) seems to think it took until 2003 to think up; it has been done in the UK since 2000 that I know of for a fact as that is when mine was fitted.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10167
Speak to Northwind (http://forums.sv650.org/member.php?u=1100), I am sure I read somewhere before that he already has a full guide written up.
sv_rory
19-12-08, 01:05 PM
lol talk about blowing their own trumpet.
il pm northwind and ask for the guide.
One thing i kept reading was the increased likleyhood of the rotor braking when its on the rear wheel.
Personaly i prefer the idea of just putting a standard sensor at the rear
vzzzbuxt
19-12-08, 03:38 PM
not bad. good idea for when the project takes off again... assuming i kep the standard rear end ( not singleside it)
nice one matey
Dangerous Dave
19-12-08, 05:50 PM
One thing i kept reading was the increased likleyhood of the rotor braking when its on the rear wheel.
Mine is a slightly different method, same basics, and with nearly eight years of use it has been 100% reliable
sv_rory
22-12-08, 12:08 PM
im going outside to start my conversion now. im still not 100% sure but il give it a shot.
am i right in thinking chemical metal was used somewhere?
northwind
22-12-08, 05:42 PM
Oh balls, I forgot to mail you the guide. 2 seconds...
sv_rory
22-12-08, 10:58 PM
thankyou so much for the guide mate !
the only query i have now is does anybody have a picture of a speedo rotor? the piece that fits inside the sensor?
ive got a speedo sensor here and its has a cylindrical thing that slides into the sensor with four small points on it. is this piece the rotor?
northwind
23-12-08, 03:09 PM
That's it.
sv_rory
23-12-08, 03:31 PM
ah fantastic. ive had an idea. instead of using chemical metal could i have a little round spacer made up that accomodates the speedo rotor? then i dont have to use the chemical metal
northwind
23-12-08, 04:03 PM
Yep, although it'd have to be retained somehow I expect to stop it rotating. A nicer solution though. TBH the chemical metal approach just works really well, it feels a bit bodgey but I never felt any need to change it. And it's totally reversible as you can chip the stuff off easily if you have to.
gaal_alexandru
27-12-08, 08:13 AM
Can anyone mail me the article?
thanks
Dangerous Dave
27-12-08, 12:47 PM
Can anyone mail me the article?
thanks
PM Northwind (http://forums.sv650.org/member.php?u=1100), he already has a guide written up.
CSpronken
12-11-10, 04:57 PM
Can anyone mail me the article?
thanks
Me too please, I pm-ed him but didn't get a response. I seriously considering this as a winter project and having the guide would really make it much easier. I'm also considering the SRAD yokes with K0-3 Forks and wheels and then black powder coating the rear wheel.
danf1234
12-11-10, 06:46 PM
Wow some old threads getting dragged back up.
northwind
12-11-10, 06:55 PM
Oh sorry folks, not been around here so much and only really dipping in occasionally. Unfortunately I can't find my guide, think it's been lost to the ether :(
But basically, what you do- you take the standard speedo sensor and lengthen the wires. Then, you thin it down slightly, and the caliper hanger as well- I just used a grinder, a milling machine would be better but I didn't have one then. You take, IIRC, about 2mm out of the outer side of the hanger, a wee bit off the inside, and the rest off the sensor. Not brain surgery, you want those 2 parts to end up exactly the same thickness as the original parts were. Get the edges square!
Then, you get JB Stik or Evostik Chemical Metal and build a wee castellation onto the outer race of the rear wheel bearing- you want it to look just like the one in the front wheel, the rotor from the sensor will fit into this. Need to get the bearing 100% clean, isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner is your friend but don't just blast the bearing, don't want to get that stuff past the seals. You'll probably need to carefully file a little material off the tangs of the rotor to make it fit. Don't force it, it wants to be fitted but loosely.
Then, you just put all the stuff together really. It should put no pressure on the rotor, if you do it'll break. And you'll want to space the caliper back inwards to centre it up.
Simples! There's other ways though, I replaced mine with an aftermarket sensor from a Veypor computer eventually as I had another wheel I was going to fit, but that never happened. Actually I should have the modded parts somewhere but I'm not sure where.
Me too please, I pm-ed him but didn't get a response. I seriously considering this as a winter project and having the guide would really make it much easier. I'm also considering the SRAD yokes with K0-3 Forks and wheels and then black powder coating the rear wheel.
if you can wait a month'ish i will have just the thing you are after. still trying to get curvy swingarm dimensions then its a go... BTW full plug and play..
CSpronken
12-11-10, 08:45 PM
Oh sorry folks, not been around here so much and only really dipping in occasionally. Unfortunately I can't find my guide, think it's been lost to the ether :sad:
But basically, what you do- you take the standard speedo sensor and lengthen the wires. Then, you thin it down slightly, and the caliper hanger as well- I just used a grinder, a milling machine would be better but I didn't have one then. You take, IIRC, about 2mm out of the outer side of the hanger, a wee bit off the inside, and the rest off the sensor. Not brain surgery, you want those 2 parts to end up exactly the same thickness as the original parts were. Get the edges square!
Then, you get JB Stik or Evostik Chemical Metal and build a wee castellation onto the outer race of the rear wheel bearing- you want it to look just like the one in the front wheel, the rotor from the sensor will fit into this. Need to get the bearing 100% clean, isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner is your friend but don't just blast the bearing, don't want to get that stuff past the seals. You'll probably need to carefully file a little material off the tangs of the rotor to make it fit. Don't force it, it wants to be fitted but loosely.
Then, you just put all the stuff together really. It should put no pressure on the rotor, if you do it'll break. And you'll want to space the caliper back inwards to centre it up.
Simples! There's other ways though, I replaced mine with an aftermarket sensor from a Veypor computer eventually as I had another wheel I was going to fit, but that never happened. Actually I should have the modded parts somewhere but I'm not sure where.
LOL, I see a pattern emerging here. :razz:
Anyway thanks. Without pictures and English not being my native language this might still be a bit of a challenge.
if you can wait a month'ish i will have just the thing you are after. still trying to get curvy swingarm dimensions then its a go... BTW full plug and play..
Well, still a few ridable days available before the roads get really treacherous and salty, so sure can wait.
Sid Squid
13-11-10, 10:09 AM
Still not worth the trouble, use a Hall sensor on the front wheel - but do it properly.
A better, neater job.
maviczap
13-11-10, 10:39 AM
if you can wait a month'ish i will have just the thing you are after. still trying to get curvy swingarm dimensions then its a go... BTW full plug and play..
What dimensions do you need? I've got a curvy swingarm in the garage I can measure.
What dimensions do you need? I've got a curvy swingarm in the garage I can measure.
i'm needing complete cross section dimensions inc angles.
maviczap
13-11-10, 01:27 PM
i'm needing complete cross section dimensions inc angles.
Excuse me for being thick, what angles are you reffering to?
northwind
14-11-10, 01:02 PM
Still not worth the trouble, use a Hall sensor on the front wheel - but do it properly.
A better, neater job.
That's pretty much the conclusion I came to as well. Couldn't find a suitable sensor when I was doing it first time and there's a neatness about using all original parts but that's about it.
yorkie_chris
14-11-10, 01:15 PM
How is chemical metal and shaving sensor down with a grinder neat?!?
The very best way I have seen, which is lovely and trick too is to use the duc 749/999 caliper and hangar and the speedo sensor from same bike. Pick up off the rear disc bolts... but you need speedo healer then also. Saves approx 1.5lbs unspring weight at the back.
northwind
14-11-10, 01:22 PM
How is chemical metal and shaving sensor down with a grinder neat?!?
All original parts as I say, it's nice to adapt rather than replace. And once fitted it looks OEM. Hence, neat. Had one of the suzuki mechanics at my local ask what year the SV came with a rear wheel speedo :rolleyes: You could do the same with a lathe or milling machine, and turn a little press-fit castellation that looked lovely, but it'll just do the exact same job.
I like the Ducati swap but it's not really in the same ballpark. Got one in the garage which I might fit some day but I'd still keep the hall effect sensor to avoid the speedo healer.
yorkie_chris
14-11-10, 01:26 PM
I don't think you could fit the duc rear hangar with the stock sensor as the inner spacer you need is thinner.
Or did you mean hall effect sensor on front with magnets?
I dunno about it not being in same league... all you need to do is unbolt some stuff and bolt more on, I would not say it is any more involved than changing front end.
northwind
14-11-10, 01:33 PM
Oh, I thought you had to change the rotor as well? Fair enough then.
(I'd use the hall effect sensor I use now not the stock one- like I say it's a better option now that people have figured out parts that work)
Sid Squid
14-11-10, 02:34 PM
I made a bracket that fits the sensor inside the front mudguard, cable comes out through mudguard in a suitable place and then runs up the brake hose. It's the best, neatest and least aggro speedo drive on an SV I've seen - if I say it myself.
northwind
14-11-10, 02:38 PM
Mine is much the same now but on the back, you can't see it unless you're lying under the bike, lovely. And easy to do too. Testify brother Squid!
Sid Squid
14-11-10, 03:00 PM
;).
Excuse me for being thick, what angles are you reffering to?
i think i will wait till/if John gives permission before i go any further.
maviczap
14-11-10, 03:17 PM
Okay dokey:p
yorkie_chris
14-11-10, 03:20 PM
I made a bracket that fits the sensor inside the front mudguard, cable comes out through mudguard in a suitable place and then runs up the brake hose. It's the best, neatest and least aggro speedo drive on an SV I've seen - if I say it myself.
With SRAD/K1-3 stuff it is not quite so neat but you can use mudguard mounting point to fit 1GT101DC sensor with no bracket. Very easy
if you dont have evenly spaced disc rivets then you need a speedo healer. most after market disks have odd numbers so you are pretty much stuck with buying OEM discs. that is unless you stick the magnets on the cage at even spacings.
if you dont have evenly spaced disc rivets then you need a speedo healer. most after market disks have odd numbers so you are pretty much stuck with buying OEM discs. that is unless you stick the magnets on the cage at even spacings.
does not matter btw, just put 4 magnets spaced out as much as you can, the speedo will hardly care as long as there is 4 pulses per revolution of the wheel
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