View Full Version : paranoid......squeak!
I have had my k2 for 3 weeks now and am beginning to get used to it as it was such a big jump from my scooter.
The problem is my scooter was soooo quiet, so every noise on the SV has be paranoid that something is wrong.
I waited a while to post this as I am beginning to love all the sounds it makes, but there is one noise I still wory about.
When manovering the bike at low speed, either coming up to lights or pushing it I can hear a very small high pitched sqeak coming from the back wheel.
At first I thought it was brakes so a mate had a very quick look (didn't take the pads out) and said the seems fine. Then I noticed that the squeal isn't only when I am braking so I got some wd40 on the bolt going through the wheel, making sure I didn't get any on the discs.
This seemed to be ok for half a day, but later I noticed it again.
Bearing in mind the bike has done just over 1000 miles, should I be worrying, or am i just a freak? :oops:
Having a guess here, but if WD40 on the rear spindle quietened the noise albeit temporarily, I would suggest you need to have that spindle out and get a good coating of grease on it.
WD40 is most certainly not the recommended stuff to use.
I would also check that the spindle is not bent and that all the cush drives in the rear wheel have not deteriorated.
Something else to check is that the rear wheel is not buckled at all. Do you know all of the bikes history :?: Maybe it's had a knock, accident or been dropped.
Check the chain is not too tight and putting undue pressure on the rear sprocket which will in turn put pressure on the cush drives and the rear spindle.
Thanks Big Ape will try that
The bike is hpi clear and the only scratches on it are one i put there :oops:
what about the barings?
Sorry, you lost me now, very new, how do I check these?
what about the barings?
Sorry, you lost me now, very new, how do I check these?
Barings are bits fitted to the wheel that the axle goes through and lets the wheel spin frealy. They have greased ball/roller (dont know which) barings inside. If the back wheel gets knocked hard or though use the barings can become worn out, which could lead them to colapse and you crash as the wheel locks up. (As told to me by my tyre changer).
To check them you have to be able to lift the rear of the bike off the ground and then check the wheel for free play, which there should be none.
This is what was told to me by the guy at the tyre place.
If it is them it cost me £30 for a pair fitted on the front wheel @ FWR in Kennington, not sure about the rear, but cant be much diffrence.
Best is to go to a tyre place and get them to look at it.
No way a bike with 1000 miles should have bearing wear, on a K2 i find that a bit suspicious to be honest, but i suppose it could have corroded slighy if its been stood. The wifes sv squeeks from the brakes, I think the anti squeek pad needs some copper grease on it. It could be just that. Is your mate a biker?
Missed the 1000 miles in the first post, very little for a K2. Probably what zx6man said then. The engine has not even been run in yet, hope is has still had the service work on it though.
The 600 mile service was done, but thats it
My mate is a biker but hasn't been for very long TBH. was thinking about checking the brakes over anyway so will try that first.
Silly question....Where do i get copper grease from? Halfords??
21QUEST
28-08-05, 06:26 PM
[quote="zx6man"]No way a bike with 1000 miles should have bearing wear, quote]
Normally 'no' but you should see what I found in the head stock bearings of my with SV1000K3 less than 1000 miles.
By the way check the wheel alignment.
Cheers
Ben
my guess is it'll be the brake pads just touching the disc. That in itself isn't anything to worry about, it's normal for a slight touch, but it shouldn't really squeak.
Ideally you should take the pads out and put just a very slight smear of copper grease on the backs where the stainless steel "anti-squeal shims" are. Be very sparing, just a spot on your finger and dab it over the area works well.
The most important thing while doing this is to grease the pad retaining pin, as your bike is so low mileage it should still be fine but they DO corrode in. The fronts need doing too. A few minutes spent now will save you grief in the future! :wink: They have a little retaining R-clip to hold them in.
Get the manuals if you haven't already
http://www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm
...and I agree with Ben 21Quest to check wheel alignment (don't rely on the marks on the swingarm, they are just a guide). Although wheel alignment doesn't in theory affect the caliper alignment directly, I have found with mine that it definitely does affect how the pads brush the disc while the brake is off.
Best way to do wheel alignment is with string held tight. Tie it to the rear of the back wheel, go up to the front wheel and pull it tight and hold it so it's just touching the front of the rear tyre. Set front wheel parallel to string and measure distance from string to tyre (rear tyre is wider than front so there's a gap). Repeat it on the other side and the distances "should" be the same.
If you need to alter the wheel alignment, make sure you keep enough slack in the chain, at least 30mm mid-span on the bottom run or so you can easily hold 2 links against the rubbing strip on the underside of the swingard at the front. Better too slack than too tight. :wink:
while were on the subject of bearings . . . anyone know the ABEC rating of motorcycle bearings ?
I did a search and saw mentions of ABEC7, but i thought it only went to 5.
goes to 9 if i remember correctly.
independentphoto
28-08-05, 11:01 PM
Hi Jenni,
Just to ad on the WD40 front. DON'T use it on the axles of your bike, it'll break down and wash out any remaining grease from the bearings without leaving anything of real substance behind and then you're in trouble. I did the same in error on my mountain bike thinking that I was doing good.
Hope you find the problem soon.
Garry
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