View Full Version : Hydraulic clutch conversion?
kawadave
09-09-05, 03:29 PM
Bought my wife a Candy Grand Blue 01 650s as an incentive to pass her direct access. She failed only scoring 4 points but dabbed on the U turn!
To use instructors bike GS500 again would mean a wait till end of November so she is going to retake it on the SV.
In oder to make this easier and I think she will prefer it in the long term I have ordered an ABM streetfighter handlebar conversion.
However when I rode the bike I couldn't fail to notice how heavy the clutch is. I have a ZX7R and XJR1300 to compare it with.
My question is what can be done to lighten the action? Is a hydraulic conversion available and if so has anybody tried them?
not entirely sure how its done, but you can adjust the position of the clutch lever at rest so its not so far out, taht makes it a lot easier to pull in if you lady only has little hands (like most do). try that firt before paying out for fancy hydrolics and stuff. also, try lubing your cables and oiling the lever assembly, like they say, every little helps and in this case, it might all add up to an easy to use clutch.
hope that helped a bit
TRICK
chazzyb
09-09-05, 03:43 PM
If the clutch is heavy, there's something wrong. I hadn't noticed how heavy mine had become until I oiled the cable (hydraulic oiler). That made a *huge* difference.
Treat it to a new cable, they're only about £11 if I remember correctly.
The clutch is heavier on my SVS than on the Dullsville, but nothing compared to some bikes I've had of old.
Do you know if the last owner every changed the clutch springs. I put new barnett ones in mine and it is now quite heavy.
I am looking at trying a hydro convertion. I am on TLplanet and have asked if i can borrow some kit that someone has removed from his bike. I will try to see if it is possable to get it to work on the sv.
On my wife's K4, to make it easier for her, I replaced the clutch lever clamp (the black bit) with one from a GSXR 600 and then bought a CRG span adjustable clutch lever to suit.
(CRG don't make clutch levers to fit the SV clamp).
northwind
09-09-05, 09:01 PM
If you disconnect and remove the cut-out switch that prevents the bike starting with the clutch out, that lightens the action a little too.
I replaced the clutch lever on my bike today and it pivots/mounted on a shoulder bolt which means you should be able to tighten the nut/bolt and the lever will move freely on the shoulder of the bolt.
I did mine up nice and tight and found that i could hardly move the lever, i slacked the nut 1/4 of a turn and the clutch was nice and free. It looks like the shoulder is 'slightly' too short in length, therefore it pinches the lever in its mounting.
kawadave
11-09-05, 06:58 PM
Thank you one and all for the good advise.
Hello,
I have the hydraulic Cluch from the TL/DL/SV 1000 on my 650.
here in my album (http://www.arcor.de/palb/album_popup.jsp?albumID=3178613&pos=1&firstVisit=0&interval=0&noInfos=0&stop=0)
Greetings from Germany,
Dieter
northwind
30-01-06, 01:47 PM
Oh aye... It's entirely possible the lifter mechanism at the end of the cable has chewed itself up- mine spat out all its bearings so it was metal-on-metal every time i used the clutch. Improved my grip strength no end ;)
Any advise on what bit are needed for the conversion?
A complete hydro clutch kit from a TL. Best place to get them is on TLP as many people have converted their TLR hydro clutch to a cable one.
Contact RizlaSV, her partner had a TLR and i was going to get the kit from him.
If there are any other mods needed i am not sure. But the kit is from a TLR.
I bought the complete set on Ebay from a crashed DL1000 for 35€ then i bought a new grip?? (10€) Thats it...
Greetings
Dieter
What work does the swap involve?
I bought the complete set on Ebay from a crashed DL1000 for 35€ then i bought a new grip?? (10€) Thats it...
Greetings
Dieter
I am guessing the DL1000 is the same engine as a TLR more or less?
Did you have to modify the front sprocket cover, what about the push rod, original one or the one from the DL?
Cloggsy
30-01-06, 02:40 PM
I bought the complete set on Ebay from a crashed DL1000 for 35€ then i bought a new grip?? (10€) Thats it...
Greetings
Dieter
I am guessing the DL1000 is the same engine as a TLR more or less?
Did you have to modify the front sprocket cover, what about the push rod, original one or the one from the DL?
The DL1000 is the VStrom (is it not :?: :?) If so, the DL has the SV1000 lump in it :!:
Is it possable to have a close shot of the hydro assembly?
Hello,
I have the hydraulic Cluch from the TL/DL/SV 1000 on my 650.
here in my album (http://www.arcor.de/palb/album_popup.jsp?albumID=3178613&pos=1&firstVisit=0&interval=0&noInfos=0&stop=0)
Greetings from Germany,
Dieter
Nice belt drive conversion too.....
triumph5ta
01-02-06, 10:41 AM
New cable = £11
Also check the clutch lever hole where it pivots around the bolt on the handlebar fitting. If this hole is oval ie it is no longer round then that will make the action heavy and awkward.
Buy a genuine Suzuki lever if you need to replace it. About £17.
Did you have to modify the front sprocket cover
Yes, have a look to an original cover than you see what i did (with a saw :D )
what about the push rod, original one or the one from the DL?
You need a longer push rod too, i've forgotten to tell that. It must be 10mm longer than the original. The one from the TL/DL/SV1000 is the same as the SV650 original. I made an adapter to make my one longer with a piece of another rod (because it have to be harded).
Nice belt drive conversion too.....
Thank you! more photos over there (http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=32659)
greetings Dieter
Professor
01-02-06, 10:22 PM
Service at a dealership does wonders for the clutch. Don't know what
the mechanics at Fowlers do to the clutch but I always notice a
marked difference after service, especially as I normally have to
ride through heavy traffic when leaving the dealership. The clutch
works much more smoothly.
there is a simple method of making cluth lighter that is to use a Sammy Miller easy clutch ,5 mins to fit and you can adjust the ratio as well. got one fitted to my bike and the clutch is feather light. only costs about £10-15
maclariz
15-04-09, 06:39 PM
there is a simple method of making cluth lighter that is to use a Sammy Miller easy clutch ,5 mins to fit and you can adjust the ratio as well. got one fitted to my bike and the clutch is feather light. only costs about £10-15
How, or more precisely, where do you fit one of these things?
The SV650 naked curvy has a tight space and the cable already has a built in tight bend to make sure it misses the instrument cluster. Putting it in inline at the handlebar would make it run into this.
I've already had a new cable, cleaned and regreased the worm drive, greased the lever end and all is as good as it's going to be, but I'm concerned it may still be a bit tight for me on a regular basis. I've recently had tennis elbow in my left elbow, probably partially caused by the repeated use of the clutch on my daily commute, and I would prefer to avoid a recurrence. So, if I can make the clutch lighter, this will be preferable to the other alternative (giving up riding for another month or two :().
As I, with little girley sized hands, can pull the clutch in with one finger, I vote for lubing the cable, replacing if its still stiff.
Sid Squid
16-04-09, 05:42 AM
As I, with little girley sized hands, can pull the clutch in with one finger, I vote for lubing the cable, replacing if its still stiff.
Agreed, if the clutch withdrawal mechanism is working properly the SV clutch is as light as you could wish for.
Along with the cable ensure the lifter isn't worn too, lost motion and lots of friction if it is.
stratman_001
23-02-10, 12:45 AM
Hi all, im gonna do a hydraulic clutch conversion on my naked curvy, iv ordered all the bits that i think i need e.g an entire sv1000 clutch and iv machined a piece of silver steel 10mm long to extend the push rod as apparently required.... i was just wondering if anyone who has attempted this could give me some hints and tips on how to get it right??
Thanks very much
Chris.B
svdemon
23-02-10, 07:48 PM
I'm collecting bits to do this too, got a Hayabusa master cylinder now need to get a slave cylinder.
I'll be watching this thread with interest.
What benefit do you hope to gain from this, or is it just because you can?
stratman_001
23-02-10, 08:35 PM
Hi im about to undertake this conversion myself, i have a complete sv1000 clutch and master cylinder, a piece of silver steel 10mm long and a spare sprocket cover waiting to be chopped about, is there any chance anyone could give me a step by step account of how to do this conversion?? or any pictures would really help :) thanks to Dieter for his pictures they have already helped greatly.
Thanks very much
Chris.B
stratman_001
23-02-10, 08:44 PM
Hi SVdemon when i was researching for mine i came across this link from a member called Dieter (see below) who has done this and put up some pictures hopefully this will be of help to you :-). Im doing this for many reasons, mainly because its something that not many people have done and it interests me to attempt it but also i do over 100 miles a day all through the year on my bike and inevitably water and crap get in the clutch cable, i do change it every year and weekly oil the inside of the cable with ATF but a hydraulic clutch would hopefully mean less maintenance for me to do.
http://www.arcor.de/palb/album_popup.jsp?albumID=3178613&pos=1&firstVisit=0&interval=0&noInfos=0&stop=0
Chris.B
The OEM clutch should be as light as a feather if the cable, lifter and pivot are good, and horrible if any of those aren't.
Alpinestarhero
25-02-10, 07:39 AM
A tell-ale sign the clutch cable is nearing the end of its life is a "notchy" feel to the operation; if you operate the lever slowly, and it feels like its sticking then letting go and sticking more, lubricate the cable. This may cure the symptoms temporarily, so if you are in this situation consider a new clutch cable
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