View Full Version : Just replaed Clutch cable.... got a few questions.
Hey guys,
I have just replaced my clutch cable and I need to know if I have to do anything with the automatic adjuster?
I had to tighten the buttom section so much that the second screw will not fit on the ower part of the screw!
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Martin
I had to tighten the bottom section
Why? What happens if you leave more thread?
.
The clutch won't ingage when I pull the lever.
Okay, while in an ideal world the manual states that the wheel-type lever adjuster on the bars should be screwed all the way in (and then adjusted at the front sprocket end), if your clutch is worn you can't do this, so I'd advise unscewing it a fair way and see if this makes any difference.
If your clutch worked fine with the old cable then it's just a question of adjustment with the new one, made all the more tricky if the clutch is hardly new.
.
OK Thanks for the help.
Do I need to do anything with the automatic adjuster?
I need to know if I have to do anything with the automatic adjuster?
Martin
Do you mean the lever behind the sprocket cover? It's not automatic, you'll have to adjust it yourself.
I need to know if I have to do anything with the automatic adjuster?
Martin
Do you mean the lever behind the sprocket cover? It's not automatic, you'll have to adjust it yourself.
Its a spring loaded screw, behind the cover.
If you look at this picture it is the screw on the bottom left with the spring.
DO I need to adjust this, if so, how..
http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_clutch_cable/pics/?scale=50;image=109_0949.JPG
Aha! all becomes clear.
The long screw on there needs to go into the cast hole above, with the nut above too.
Aha! all becomes clear.
The long screw on there needs to go into the cast hole above, with the nut above too.
Its not the long screw I have an issue with, this picture is one I fouind on the web.
If you look to the bottom left of the blue box, just under the blue box there is a screw, that adjusts a spring. This is where I am a little stuck.
No picture posted :roll: :lol: .
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No picture posted :roll: :lol: .
.
http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_clutch_cable/pics/?scale=50;image=109_0949.JPG
D'oh, stupid me. Sorry.
Yes, I had to adjust mine when I put a different cable on. Set your lever-end cable adjuster all the way in. Unlock the locknut. Turn the screw out a few turns. Using the long bolt mentioned above set the sprung lever angle to just shy of 90 degrees. (I don't have a pic of this which would help explain where I mean but its the angle made by the cable crossing the lever from the centre of the pivot.)
Then set the screw a quarter turn out. Lock the nut making sure the set screw hasn't moved. Now do your cable adjusting at the bar..
Carsick
11-12-05, 02:20 PM
Be careful when you tighten the locknut, the thread won't take much torque at all.
You've assembled it wrongly. The cable hasn't gone through the arm at the top left :lol: .Once you've done that it should be a different ball game ;).
.
You've assembled it wrongly. The cable hasn't gone through the arm at the top left :lol: .Once you've done that it should be a different ball game ;).
.
That's what I thought, but that photo isn't his bike.
using the photo as a guide.
With the cable totally slack, doesnt even need to be connected for this bit.
See the clutch push rod and its adjuster screw and lock nut.
Undo the lock nut and unscrew the centre adjuster,so that it isnt pushing on the rod at all, ie loose, now turn it in untill you feel it touch the rod, then back off one quarter turn, lock in position with the lock nut..
Now hook up the cable and use the adjuster at the lower end (the long one ) to take up nearly all the play (the bar end adjuster should be totally in) lock this with the nuts .
Now use the bar end adjuster to fine tune the free play.
If this doesnt work it could be that the operating arm for the push rod has jumped a thread, undo the 2 mounting bolts for the operating arm and its adjuster and check it out, the arm can go on in more than one position, when its mounted and AOK it should look like the one in the pic.
The push rod end clearance setting is important, I suspect you have screwed this in too far , this will disengage the clutch.
HTH
pod
You've assembled it wrongly. The cable hasn't gone through the arm at the top left :lol: .Once you've done that it should be a different ball game ;).
.
That's what I thought, but that photo isn't his bike.
Oh right, sorry!
Pod's advice is good.
.
21QUEST
11-12-05, 05:18 PM
Iceamn , personally this is the best explanation I've found.
I don't use my protractor for the clutch adjustment anymore :lol:
Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Well, I kind of tightened the adjuster rod too much :roll:
This then made the clutch engage all the time, I released the clutch lever in 1st gear and nothing happened :o
We then loosened the rod, (which was really tight, and f&%$ed the thread :twisted:
We believe that the clutch plates need to be replaced, any advise on this? or do you think I can get away with buying a new adjuster rod from somewhere and this time taking it steady?
If so, where could I get an adjuster rod :?:
Iceman
you are on the learning curve!
if the clutch was slipping while you drove the bike about for more than a mile or two then the plates will be cooked.
MnP sell new sets of plates.
if the bike wasnt run hard with the clutch slipping you will probbly get away with replacing the push rod actuator assembly completely.
Theres a good chance the threads on the screw and the internal threads are goosed, thats the unit held on with the 2 bolts in the pic.
maybe try e bay , a breakers yard or a Suzuki dealer if your flush.
A breaker would be a good bet.
Call it the "push rod actuator assembly" to avoid confusion.
"Well, I kind of tightened the adjuster rod too much
This then made the clutch engage all the time, I released the clutch lever in 1st gear and nothing happened "
On a pedantic note , you disengaged the clutch when you screwed in the adjuster, engaged clutch = solid drive, dissengaged =slipping.
Id change the actuator assembly first , then if the clutch still gives bother change the plates, remeber you must have a 1/4 turn slack at the push rod to prevent more hassle.
if you do need to change the plates, be careful when refitting the clutch casing, use light torque on the screws or the casing will distort and leak.
Cheers
pod
Thanks POD, I am all new to this sort of terminology so you will have to excuse me, and I thank you for the correction :lol:
The clutch wasn't slipping so the plates shouldn't be cooked, I am not too sure how you tell if the plates need replacing, do they make a noise?
I will do what you say first, and replace the "push rod actuator assembly" :wink:
Thanks for you input.
Quiff Wichard
13-05-06, 08:58 PM
how much was yer cluth cable?
I need to replace my throttle cables too- both !.. do they come complete does anyone know!!... all the casing and adjusters etc..
northwind
13-05-06, 11:37 PM
Iceman, it's possible I've got a pushrod assembly you could have on one of the scrap engines, drop me a PM if you're still looking.
How many miles has the bike done? If the clutch is working (yes, I know it's not just now, but when you fix it ;) ) then you don't need new plates. If it's dubious, the best way is probably to open it up and have a look, but there should be no need at moderate miles unless it's either been abused or slipping for a long time.
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