View Full Version : making a stubby exhaust
ok, i tried to take apart my scorpion end can (not perfect condition anyway) but i managed to um....mess the front of the can at the edge up and it now seems i need to take the back cap off as well.
As a result im thinking of making it stubby to erradicate my mistakes and the dent that is in it from when i got it, near to the front, taking about 10-15 cm off the can and then repacking it.
Anyone have any experience or suggestions for doing this?
I do have the origional can on at the moment so its not a disaster if i mess it up...but still money wasted effectively (but i cant leave the can looking as it is now)
Cheers
andy
northwind
02-02-06, 12:08 AM
Yup, did it with mine. Cut it. Put it back together. That is all :) Don't go too short, you can always take some more away but you can't lengthen it once you've cut too much off. Use a grinder ideally, and a new, good quality cutting disc (or if you have patience, a HSS blade in one of those big sawing whotsits that you use to cut perfect angles) Find some steel rivets, ally ones don't last and they oxidise.
If it's a titanium end can, you can cut it just the same but it'll be a lot of small cuts- titanium alloy heats up a lot when you grind it and it work hardens, plus you'll burn the finish. And you'll need eye protection, it sparks like a mofo.
Last thing is, don't cut too small. If you try to cut close to the end of a piece of work with a grinder, it'll tend to fold down instead of cutting cleanly. This drove me nuts... Cut at least a cm with every cut or you'll need to spend forever tidying up the edges.
But remember, there's a chance it'll impair the fuelling of your bike. Some would say that the exhaust companies put a lot of R&D into getting the perfect effect from your can. Frankly I call that cobblers in most cases- many companies (including Scorp) fit the exact same can to multiple models.
Peter Henry
02-02-06, 07:43 AM
Northwind wrote:
many companies (including Scorp) fit the exact same can to multiple models.
Very true mate,the main difference being mode of fixing it to the various bikes. :wink:
lovely, thankyou northwind. time to go and buy a powertool for cutting (i hate living with a mother...it means no power tools...had a to buy a drill the other day...)
ill have a go at that now!
cheers
andy
northwind
02-02-06, 01:19 PM
If you're buying a grinder, get the biggest one you can... You might never need a bigger one, but I've only got a small one (4 inch I think, though i've never measured it) and it's pretty irritating- especially for serious cutting, where the discs can be gone in about a minute. Also, if you get a cheaper one- B&Q, Clarke, even lower end decent brands- get new discs at the same time, the standard ones will be cack.
Here's a thought though... If you're going to need to buy a grinder to do the cut, and maybe a drill and a set of bits to drill the rivet holes, it might end up being cheaper just buying a replacement, shorter sleeve.
No need for a misquote today ;)
wyrdness
02-02-06, 01:22 PM
I've got a spare scorpion can. It's for sale so if you screw up and need one then just ask. It's brand new (never been used) but doesn't have a link pipe.
If you don't trust yourself with a grinder, you can cut it with a hacksaw. The outer of the can is fairly easy to cut, although can be difficult to get a straight cut. The inner pipe can be a bit tough to cut though, plenty of elbow grease needed! :D
thanks for the advice gents, im going to buy the grinder purely because i live with my mum...and im getting to that manly age soon (21) where i NEED my own power tools...or at least access to them :lol:
thanks for the offer of the scorpian can, ill come back to you if i mess it up, although cheap would have to be the name of the game.
i aint cutting it with a hacksaw, i havent got the patience! and i have a plan for getting a straight cut round the outside part of the can.
thanks again, getting excited about this now...(sad aint i)
Andy
im just trying to decide what length to start with, i think the can is 450mm, without measuring it sat inside where its warm, would 300mm be too small and would i be best going for 350mm?
northwind if your still enlightening me and havent grown bored of my topic (understandably), what length is yours at roughly and could i see a picture off it at that length attached to the bike please.
many thanks again! (and sorry to keep bothering y'all)
andy
northwind
02-02-06, 11:07 PM
15 inches I think, can't remember for sure just now. Looks like this:
http://server2.uploadit.org/files/northwind-frombehind.jpg
Could be shorter of course, but I like it as it is. Here's how it used to look from a similiar angle
http://server3.uploadit.org/files/northwind-menadwigan2.jpg
before someone says it, yes, I'd just crashed it ;) Into a gravel trap at Knockhill on that occasion. testament to how well the old R&Gs could sometimes work, that shot- half an hour earlier it was sliding along at 70mph.
rictus01
03-02-06, 12:01 AM
If you're buying a grinder, get the biggest one you can... You might never need a bigger one, but I've only got a small one (4 inch I think, though i've never measured it) and it's pretty irritating- especially for serious cutting, where the discs can be gone in about a minute. Also, if you get a cheaper one- B&Q, Clarke, even lower end decent brands- get new discs at the same time, the standard ones will be cack.
Just a word of caution, the torque from a 9" grinder can be pretty strong, it's a two handed job, I've 4 grinders 4, 4 1/2, 7 & 9, that may seem alot but each does it's own job best, I'd suggest a 4 1/2" one should be OK for most things, and make sure you get cutting disks (very thin) and not grinding disc (fatter? you'll get one on it anyway).
Cheers Mark.
thankyou once again, ill probably start at 15 inches then, also gives me some room to mes it up and go shorter if need be as a result!
Also thankyou rictus, useful advice on the grinder/cutter front!
Andy
northwind
03-02-06, 11:48 AM
Just a word of caution, the torque from a 9" grinder can be pretty strong, it's a two handed job, I've 4 grinders 4, 4 1/2, 7 & 9, that may seem alot but each does it's own job best, I'd suggest a 4 1/2" one should be OK for most things, and make sure you get cutting disks (very thin) and not grinding disc (fatter? you'll get one on it anyway).
That's definately true- although when I've used 9" ones I've usually started it up 2 handed then used it one-handed once it was up to speed. Never used one for serious cutting, just gradual grinding.
well i had a go at grinding yesterday....man that was fun...i think im addicted.
the cut was pretty straight, im going to try and tidy it up tomorrow with a dremmel.
Im only just realizing the fun i have missed out on with mot having power tools...
anyone got any ideas about why drilling the rivets seems to round my drill bits off pretty quickly? i bought a £2.20 drill bit from b+Q for it and its not not nearly as good as when i started using it, (about 5 rivets ago)
Oh the grinder i go has a cutting disk of about 4-5 inches (maybe 4.5), and ill say it again...they are fun!
Thanks again
andy
Sounds like you were drilling stainless rivets - a cobalt drill used with cutting fluid on a lower speed usually does the job. If you were using a normal hss jobber drill than it could have either a) got too hot and gone softer or b) been blunted by the harder stainless material ( again cutting fluid helps ).
hmm, ok fair enough, maybe it gt too hot...although the rivets probably are stainless ones as well...
Andy
northwind
05-02-06, 06:02 PM
If you're reeeeaal careful, you could grind the tops off the rivets till they're flush with the can, then pop them through with a small punch...
that thought did cross my mmind, but at the time i didnt have a dremmel or similar...and i have done them now...so hopefully it wont be a problem again!
cheers for the advice though
andy
They will drill, I have done it also on a scorp. I used a hacksaw as its more controllable to get a straight cut, then used a ring of masking tape as a marker and a soft disk on the grinder to get the edge perfect. Take the same off the inner perforated tube, repack, mark where the end cap holes line up, redrill these, re-revitt and voila, you have your stubby can!.
Just to whet your whsitle, this is what a stubby scorp looks like...
Dan.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Dan_SV/Sideon.jpg
The scorching on the side is what happens when you run a baffle in it, Dont do it. Now doesnt happen minus the baffle since its been re-packed.
that looks nice, mine will hopefully be finnished today, and then il try and work out how to get a pic up. Took me absolutely ages (like 4 hours) to get the end cap back in on mine, (inlet not outlet end)
Cheers
Andy
well its on, i could have done a better job but with inexperience as my excuse ill say the next one will be an awful lot better. Having said that this is nice and you have to get close to see the imperfections.
i then went on to do the air filter and spark plugs and clean lube and adjust the chain, plus move lots of stuff in the garage, by the time i was done it was very dark...and cold, so hopefully ill remmber pics tomorrow!
Andy
Well hopefully this picture will attach, although it is a bit of a rubbish angle to show the size of the can as it looks quite standard in the picture, although in reality its a good 4 inches shorter. But its now darkening outside and its freezing and i have been out there working all afternoon, and cant bear to go out again.
http://upload2.postimage.org/133157/IMG_2918.jpg (http://upload2.postimage.org/133157/photo_hosting.html)
I can only apologise for the dirtyness of the bike and the massive need for a polish of the downpipes, but when i have time and its a bit warmer that will get done.
Two days work is what you see, that includes, exhaust cutting and making, air filter change, spark plug change, new tank pad, fender extender fitted, chain cleaned, fork protectors made and fitted (probably will last a week then die)
Thankyou once again for all the advice i have received (and needed!)
please feel free to comment, dont be too harsh :lol:
Andy
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