Does my sprocket need changing?

[branny]

so... ive got my back wheel off to get my puncture repaired....
jus cleaning everything up and i notice my sprocket is quite worn.
im not sure how worn sprockets get before they need replacing....
is there any rule?
i jus thought whilst my wheel is off.... i should do it.

heres a pic (click to enlarge)... any comments appreciated.
thanks


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/702000-702999/702607_30_thumb.jpg (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/702000-702999/702607_30_full.jpg)

[Carsick]

That certainly looks well on it's way.

How many miles have they done?
You probably shouldn't replace just the sprocket. If you're going to do any you should do both sprockets and the chain at the same time.

[Dal]

You probably shouldn't replace just the sprocket. If you're going to do any you should do both sprockets and the chain at the same time.

I agree ! Buy a kit.

Years ago we used to just turn the sprockets around so the tips bent back again.

Although I would not recommend this (Just some of the stories about broken chains) :shock:

[northwind]

Definately replace it. Some of the teeth aren't so bad, some are way hooked. It's practically dead. And the chain will be worn to match.

[rictus01]

Just as a note the front sprocket will be three times more worn than the rear.

Rule of thumb, if you can see the wear on the rear the whole lot needs changing.

Don't try saving a few bob on sprockets or chain only, it's just not worth it.

Cheers Mark.

[branny]

okay.

cheers guys!
that wasnt a good pic.... i think it is worse than the pic shows :shock:

so, im convinved that safety is key here........ but a chain kit???
thats gonna be best part of £100 yeah??? plus a de-linker i guess???

anybody got any cost efficient ways of doing this???
i.e... a nice link to a cheap (but GOOD!) chain kit.... and a chain tool??? :wink:

how about this????-
http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=548446

seems cheap?

cheers guys. :D


(£££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££ :( )

[Cloggsy]

You could always get a 47 tooth sprocket for the rear (stay standard 15 on the front,) for some added acceleration & fun :twisted:

[rictus01]

okay.

cheers guys!
that wasnt a good pic.... i think it is worse than the pic shows :shock:

so, im convinved that safety is key here........ but a chain kit???
thats gonna be best part of £100 yeah??? plus a de-linker i guess???

anybody got any cost efficient ways of doing this???
i.e... a nice link to a cheap (but GOOD!) chain kit.... and a chain tool??? :wink:

how about this????-
http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=548446

seems cheap?

cheers guys. :D


(£££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££ :( )

Used Busters standard "o" ring chains before on the SV £60 and come with a spring and soft rivet link, stick the spring link in ride to bike shop and give the man a few of your hard earned £'s and he'll fit the rivet link for you.

Cheers Mark.

[Flamin_Squirrel]

Now I'm well aware that the general rule of thumb is to change c/s all together. But, although the sprockets are starting to look worn, my chain hasnt needed adjusting in thousands of miles. So, do I really need to change it?

[timwilky]

okay.

cheers guys!
that wasnt a good pic.... i think it is worse than the pic shows :shock:

so, im convinved that safety is key here........ but a chain kit???
thats gonna be best part of £100 yeah??? plus a de-linker i guess???

anybody got any cost efficient ways of doing this???
i.e... a nice link to a cheap (but GOOD!) chain kit.... and a chain tool??? :wink:

how about this????-
http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=548446

seems cheap?

cheers guys. :D





(£££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££ :( )


So with VAT and delivery that works out about £73 for an unknown chain and sprocket kit. Personally I would use vyxxn (http://www.vyxxn.co.uk/) if you need to buy online as for an extra £2 you get a triple SSS chain and JT Sprockets

[northwind]

I looked at chain breakers and rivetters, but a good one doesn't come cheap- so like Rictus suggests, I get chains with clip links, then go to my dealers and get it done properly (or if I can't find a clip link, I change the sprockets then ride there on the old chain and have them change the chain alone- usually not a good idea to mix old and new but we're talking 5 miles here, I can live with it)

Costs me a fiver for the work, usually, and since a good chain with a scottoiler can last me a year or so, it'd be about 15 years before a chain tool paid for itself- assuming it didn't rust or break, or get lost, and assuming my miles don't drop.

[Flamin_Squirrel]

Costs me a fiver for the work, usually, and since a good chain with a scottoiler can last me a year or so...

:shock:

How many miles do you do?

[Carsick]

Costs me a fiver for the work, usually, and since a good chain with a scottoiler can last me a year or so...

:shock:

How many miles do you do?
Do you think a year is good or bad? I got about a year out of my original chain and that lasted 23k.

[Flamin_Squirrel]

Well it depends on the milage, which is why I asked :)

I've had my bike almost 2 years, done 21k miles and the chain still seems good.

[Carsick]

My chain was still perfect after 23k but the front sprocket was knackered and the rear was showing definite signs of wear.

[rictus01]

Now I'm well aware that the general rule of thumb is to change c/s all together. But, although the sprockets are starting to look worn, my chain hasnt needed adjusting in thousands of miles. So, do I really need to change it?

you don't HAVE to change your chain, as I'm guessing it's still working, however if they are of the same age and the sprockets are worn, then the chain is to, if you want to risk it, well that's up to you.

I've every confidence in my abilities to spot a worn chain and will change it when needed, if you have the same then you already know the answer to your own question, if not chen change it.

[northwind]

20,000 or so in a good year- I use a Renthal ally rear sprocket so they don't last as well as steel.

Oh aye, the extra power and ham-fisted throttle hand probably don't help ;)

[Flamin_Squirrel]

Now I'm well aware that the general rule of thumb is to change c/s all together. But, although the sprockets are starting to look worn, my chain hasnt needed adjusting in thousands of miles. So, do I really need to change it?

you don't HAVE to change your chain, as I'm guessing it's still working, however if they are of the same age and the sprockets are worn, then the chain is to, if you want to risk it, well that's up to you.

I've every confidence in my abilities to spot a worn chain and will change it when needed, if you have the same then you already know the answer to your own question, if not chen change it.

Well it's not corroded (asside from a little surface rust) there are no tight spots and it hasnt needed tightening in along time. Anything else to look for?

[rictus01]

Now I'm well aware that the general rule of thumb is to change c/s all together. But, although the sprockets are starting to look worn, my chain hasnt needed adjusting in thousands of miles. So, do I really need to change it?

you don't HAVE to change your chain, as I'm guessing it's still working, however if they are of the same age and the sprockets are worn, then the chain is to, if you want to risk it, well that's up to you.

I've every confidence in my abilities to spot a worn chain and will change it when needed, if you have the same then you already know the answer to your own question, if not chen change it.

Well it's not corroded (asside from a little surface rust) there are no tight spots and it hasnt needed tightening in along time. Anything else to look for?

sure, loads of things, get the vernier gauge out check the link bars, side deflection,o ring condition, to name but a few, a lot you can't see as well, which is why you use the sprockets as an indicator :roll:

Mind you as I said it's your neck, I've seen enough damage caused by chains,(which the owners have said were fine) snap.

Even with my years of experiance, if I had a bike with worn sprockets, I'd change the lot, but hey maybe £50 is a lot to you, my necks worth more thanks.

[Flamin_Squirrel]

Now I'm well aware that the general rule of thumb is to change c/s all together. But, although the sprockets are starting to look worn, my chain hasnt needed adjusting in thousands of miles. So, do I really need to change it?

you don't HAVE to change your chain, as I'm guessing it's still working, however if they are of the same age and the sprockets are worn, then the chain is to, if you want to risk it, well that's up to you.

I've every confidence in my abilities to spot a worn chain and will change it when needed, if you have the same then you already know the answer to your own question, if not chen change it.

Well it's not corroded (asside from a little surface rust) there are no tight spots and it hasnt needed tightening in along time. Anything else to look for?

sure, loads of things, get the vernier gauge out check the link bars, side deflection,o ring condition, to name but a few, a lot you can't see as well, which is why you use the sprockets as an indicator :roll:

Mind you as I said it's your neck, I've seen enough damage caused by chains,(which the owners have said were fine) snap.

Even with my years of experiance, if I had a bike with worn sprockets, I'd change the lot, but hey maybe £50 is a lot to you, my necks worth more thanks.

So infact you dont know how to spot a worn chain, you just go by how the sprockets look.

[jambo]

*wanders in before the arguments get going*

For the sake of £50 or so I'd say do the lot, but I know what it's like to be totally broke, if you check the chain over and there are no loose or tight spots and it seems in good nick then maybe changing the sprokets now and the chain in a month's time would be a comprimise you could make? I would certainly consider it a priority for replacement. The simple point is it can be hard to tell when something like a chain is worn, and you do not want to find out the wrong way :!:

[branny]

So with VAT and delivery that works out about £73 for an unknown chain and sprocket kit. Personally I would use vyxxn if you need to buy online as for an extra £2 you get a triple SSS chain and JT Sprockets

ok.... im with this idea! :D


only one thing in my way...... thats removing my old chain!!!


any tips?

[northwind]

The other thing which hasn't been said is that chains and sprockets wear as a set- if you replace any one part once there's significant wear, you'll accelerate wear on both parts. So, say you have a chain that looks like it's got a couple of thousand miles left in it, if you replace the sprockets alone you'll not only wear the chain faster, but you'll also wear your new sprockets faster than usual- and the same will happen again when you change the chain.

Squirrel, Rictus explained a load of ways to check the chain wear, did you not see that? Chains have a stated run-out which you can check if you have the right gear, which will tell you if they'ev stretched or not, as well.

[branny]

err...
well, im fairly sure all that has been said.... hence this thread went from me asking if my sprocket needed changing ........... to asking about a kit........ and finally.... How do i remove my chain??? (without buying a tool!!!)


any tips??

[jambo]

If you don't have a link tool, a hacksaw or dremmel will get the old one off, just watch out for sparks make sure the chain is held securely so it don't flap about if off the sprokets already, and go careful, it's not like you need the old chain so who cares if it get's trashed? :lol:

[branny]

ive jus been sat here thinking about it.........
if im removing the front sprocket anyway (i hope this is easy??????)

will the chain not then be free to remove without de linking????

im at work and bike is at home......... so... im trying to visualise it. :roll:

[Scoobs]

ive jus been sat here thinking about it.........
if im removing the front sprocket anyway (i hope this is easy??????)

will the chain not then be free to remove without de linking????

im at work and bike is at home......... so... im trying to visualise it. :roll:

Not unless you are David Blaine and can magic it past the swingarm pivot.

[branny]

ok ok ...... slightly embarrassed now..... :lol:


........can i remove that previous post??? :wink:



angle grinder it is!

cheers everyone, i'll order a kit. 8)

[timwilky]

Jam a piece of wood through the rear wheel to stop it turning. knock down tabs on front sprocket lock washer and undo nut with a breaker bar. Before you cut the chain.

However you cut it does not matter. ball ache using hacksaw/dremel etc. Use an angle grinder with plenty of cardboard/ plywood etc to protect bike from damage. Check with your local bike shop before hand if they will rivet your chain when you ride up with a split link (Slowly and smoothly)

[aimhamilton]

Is there a manual anywhere that would show you how to replace chain and sprockets?

I am considering doing this myself as I don't want to ride too far with the chain in the state its in (recent post about state of sprocket & chain, and gear selection problems)!

Bikes going to Spanner Man in the next few weeks for a service and stuff, but don't fancy the 60 mile ride with it as it stands!

[rictus01]

Now I'm well aware that the general rule of thumb is to change c/s all together. But, although the sprockets are starting to look worn, my chain hasnt needed adjusting in thousands of miles. So, do I really need to change it?

you don't HAVE to change your chain, as I'm guessing it's still working, however if they are of the same age and the sprockets are worn, then the chain is to, if you want to risk it, well that's up to you.

I've every confidence in my abilities to spot a worn chain and will change it when needed, if you have the same then you already know the answer to your own question, if not chen change it.

Well it's not corroded (asside from a little surface rust) there are no tight spots and it hasnt needed tightening in along time. Anything else to look for?

sure, loads of things, get the vernier gauge out check the link bars, side deflection,o ring condition, to name but a few, a lot you can't see as well, which is why you use the sprockets as an indicator :roll:

Mind you as I said it's your neck, I've seen enough damage caused by chains,(which the owners have said were fine) snap.

Even with my years of experiance, if I had a bike with worn sprockets, I'd change the lot, but hey maybe £50 is a lot to you, my necks worth more thanks.

So infact you dont know how to spot a worn chain, you just go by how the sprockets look.

Funny I thought I'd already told you how to ( Please read above)? perhaps I was to cryptic for you, not having had a chain snap on me and getting over 54,000 miles out of my last one gives a good idea how to look after a chain IMHO, but then you obviously think you know best?

[Flamin_Squirrel]

Sorry, I skipped over the patronising part and read the bit (even though for some reason you felt it necessary to insult my earning power) where you said you change the chain when the sprockets are worn. So which is it? :roll:

[Peter Henry]

Just how on earth can a thread where someone was asking for a little advice.....and receiving it.....be turned in to a confrontation?!

At times I really wonder what makes some people tick! :shock:

[rictus01]

Sorry, I skipped over the patronising part and read the bit (even though for some reason you felt it necessary to insult my earning power) where you said you change the chain when the sprockets are worn. So which is it? :roll:

If you feel your earning power is low? change your job. (Indeed £50 was once a great deal to me,and as the SV is a budget bike, some quite naturally still find it so, apologies if that's a touchy subject to you)

If you ask for advice then read it?

Perhaps an analogy would help (I doubt it but here goes)

If you slosh the tank you can generally tell how much juice is in it, like wise if you open the cap and look or measure you mileage, but it's a fair bet you're low when the light comes on.

Now if you choose to ignore it don't be surprised if you end up pushing a motorbike.

You've asked, I've answered, ignore at your own peril.

[rictus01]

Jam a piece of wood through the rear wheel to stop it turning. knock down tabs on front sprocket lock washer and undo nut with a breaker bar. Before you cut the chain.

However you cut it does not matter. ball ache using hacksaw/dremel etc. Use an angle grinder with plenty of cardboard/ plywood etc to protect bike from damage. Check with your local bike shop before hand if they will rivet your chain when you ride up with a split link (Slowly and smoothly)

Good advice, also if you cut the chain in the middle of the back sprocket 9level with the swing arm) it's held in place, as you'll be changing the rear sprocket as well it doesn't matter if you cut into it.

Cheers Mark.

[dnicholson99]

According to the service manual to check the chain, count 21 pins on the it, then measure the distance between them, if it's more than 319.4mm then the chain needs replaced

[jonboy]

Yup, I think you made your point :lol: .


.

[Sudoxe]

Yup, I think you made your point :lol: .


.

He must have a triple as well....

[branny]

Jam a piece of wood through the rear wheel to stop it turning. knock down tabs on front sprocket lock washer and undo nut with a breaker bar. Before you cut the chain.

However you cut it does not matter. ball ache using hacksaw/dremel etc. Use an angle grinder with plenty of cardboard/ plywood etc to protect bike from damage. Check with your local bike shop before hand if they will rivet your chain when you ride up with a split link (Slowly and smoothly)

i didnt think about this....... i have the rear wheel removed and want to change the sprockets before i re fit it...... will i have problems changing the front sprocket???
i kinda passed this off as an easy job.....

cheers

[Scoobs]

will i have problems changing the front sprocket???


Possibly. The nut that holds it on is (there is no other word for it) ****ING tight.

[Cloggsy]

will i have problems changing the front sprocket???


Possibly. The nut that holds it on is (there is no other word for it) f*cking tight.

It has to be tight though... Lots of forces going through that front sprocket :!:

[Scoobs]

will i have problems changing the front sprocket???


Possibly. The nut that holds it on is (there is no other word for it) f*cking tight.

It has to be tight though... Lots of forces going through that front sprocket :!:

It's something like 150Nm IIRC. One my CBR it is 42Nm!

[branny]

ok, will i need any new locking washers upon refit?
cos my sprocket didnt come with any..... and im changing it tonight!!!

?

[Scoobs]

ok, will i need any new locking washers upon refit?
cos my sprocket didnt come with any..... and im changing it tonight!!!

?

No.

Just make sure you bend a different part of the original washer than before.

[branny]

aaaarrgrggghhhh

somebody couldve warned me about the size of that front sprocket socket!!!!
:shock:


nah... cheers for all the help really....

...but, what size is it?????
im gonna need to get a socket sorted.

[Carsick]

It's 32mm, and as Scoobs said, bloody tight.

[Peter Henry]

It might be best to use a socket that locates on the flats of the nut rather than on the corners.This gives better purchase and less possibility of slip. good luck.(Maybe see if yu can find a piece of steel tube to slide over your socket wrench to provide extra leverage when trying to "snap" the nut to get it moving?

I can assure you that it might be important to use the right torque setting but if my clutch hub centre nut was anything to go by...some little mother hammered that nut home with an air wrench in the factory! :?

[northwind]

Mine was practically loose :roll: Actually quite handy when I came to change it :)

[branny]

I can assure you that it might be important to use the right torque setting

i borrowed a socket and an angle grinder (for the chain) to do this job, when asked if i needed a torque wrench..... lets be honest here..... i jus thought 'nah'.... its gonna be as tight as reasonably possible i think.
im a pretty strong guy, but im never gonna overdo a 32mm nut!!!


only 1 last prob i encountered. obviously the clutch cable gets in the way of the sprocket nut, the obvious way seems to be to simply unclip the cable end from the floating housing..... but for the life of me, i couldnt !!!! it seems to just slide out to the side??? but i couldnt, i ended up unscrewing the whole adjuster and pulling it around to make room.... i think i'll be ok.

[Viney]

I can assure you that it might be important to use the right torque setting

i borrowed a socket and an angle grinder (for the chain) to do this job, when asked if i needed a torque wrench..... lets be honest here..... i jus thought 'nah'.... its gonna be as tight as reasonably possible i think.
im a pretty strong guy, but im never gonna overdo a 32mm nut!!!


only 1 last prob i encountered. obviously the clutch cable gets in the way of the sprocket nut, the obvious way seems to be to simply unclip the cable end from the floating housing..... but for the life of me, i couldnt !!!! it seems to just slide out to the side??? but i couldnt, i ended up unscrewing the whole adjuster and pulling it around to make room.... i think i'll be ok.

So any update? After all the hassle that people go trough to change thier chain, i prefer the, ride to shop get them to do it method! But i admire the determination.

[branny]

haha.... well, thats my method for the car, pay somebody else to do it.
but as the bike is in the yard on a trackstand anyway.... and im a bloody engineer, i'd like to think i could manage (and enjoy) doing most of the work on my bike! :D

[jmsvuk]

If its a rethal sprocket, i'd change it back to a steel one. I had one fitted and if you ride your bike hard through the gears it wont last long. They might be ok for racers but they are of no benefit to ordinary road use. Just look cool.

[northwind]

Renthal fronts are steel... it's just the rears that are hardened ally. They last really well, roughly 2/3 as well as an OEM steel one, but they're more vulnerable to bad maintenance than steel. I know the weight reduction's trivial for road use, but just looking cool has a lot going for it ;)

I can't remember who does them, but those 2-piece ones are a rather good idea- they work like a front disc, there's an ally carrier with a steel face. Probably get one of those next time.

[branny]

so, ive fitted the sprockets and the wheel..... now i need to fit the chain.

whats that about a 'soft-link' ???

my chain came with a split link and (what looks like) a regular link.

what do i do to get in 'semi-safe' to ride to suzuki???

i figured id jus fit the split link til i got there???

having a bit of difficulty doing that.............any tips???


cheers guys!!

[sv650nutter149]

so how much will or should it cost to replace the whole lot i was quoted bout 250 :? ??? ne ideas please.
cheers

[madmal]

pay someone else to do it. job done :D good on you for giving it a go though.

slight change of topic..............
SCOOBS, what program is your avatar off, i've been trying to think of it for ages - some kung fu series from 70's i think (oop's showing my age). was it called monkey or had someone called monkey in it. based on chinese dynasty i think. come on, whats it called mate! :? :D

[Scoobs]

I can't remember who does them, but those 2-piece ones are a rather good idea- they work like a front disc, there's an ally carrier with a steel face. Probably get one of those next time.

Supersprox:

http://www.motocross-shop.com/germany/mxcenter/shop/fotos/gross/554.jpg

[Scoobs]

slight change of topic..............
SCOOBS, what program is your avatar off

See Here (http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=33568)

[northwind]

The spirit of Scoobs is irrepressible ;)

[Viney]

so how much will or should it cost to replace the whole lot i was quoted bout 250 :? ??? ne ideas please.
cheers
I paid £120 for my last kit, fitted. BUt between that and about £180 maximum.

[madmal]

slight change of topic..............
SCOOBS, what program is your avatar off

See Here (http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=33568) :wink: :D

[chazzyb]

Mine was practically loose :roll: Actually quite handy when I came to change it :)

Ditto: I changed my sprockets and chain today. Stood on the rear brake pedal, leant over the bike to the engine sprocket, prepared for a struggle. Didn't get one. The nut wasn't exactly loose, but didn't need any real pressure to undo it. Mind you, 145 Nm didn't feel that much doing it up again afterwards.

[branny]

so, ive fitted the sprockets and the wheel..... now i need to fit the chain.

whats that about a 'soft-link' ???

my chain came with a split link and (what looks like) a regular link.

what do i do to get in 'semi-safe' to ride to suzuki???

i figured id jus fit the split link til i got there???

having a bit of difficulty doing that.............any tips???


cheers guys!!

[aimhamilton]

Successfully changed my chain and sprockets at the weekend without one bit of bother! Was very simple and also gave me the opportunity to clean some of the bits that I normally can't get to with the wheel on!

Triple SSS Chain and Sprocket from Vyxxn performance £75 Very impressed with this and look pretty smart too! Chain is a goldy colour!

I did however have to purchase a Chain Splitter thing from Gerickes, £70! My God...just to get a chain off and put it back on! But its done now and may just sell the tool for £50 to someone who may need to more often. Did the job though and enabled me to put the proper link on the chain which was reassuring for the ride home.

Also managed to lube all the clutch and gear mechanism whilst the case is of and this seems to have addressed my recent gear change problem which is good!

Happy Days!

[Sid Squid]

I was quoted bout 250 :? ???

:shock: 250? As in pounds? :shock:

ne ideas please.

Yes, but I can't say on a 'U' rated site.