View Full Version : ZX6B1H
Scooby Drew
01-03-06, 02:55 PM
Following a couple of PMs for my thoughts on my ZX6, this is my take on it.
I have a B1H which is the 2003/4 model. At the moment I am commuting 50 miles per day on it and do not have comfort problems. It takes me 25 minutes for the first 20 miles through the countryside then another 20 minutes for the last 5 miles to the centre of Edinburgh through nightmare traffic. I have also done Edinburgh to Cambridge on both the SV and the B1 and found the B1 to be more comfortable. I found the riding position and seat on the SV (I had a pointy one) to be dreadful.
I am 6ft tall. The riding position is ok and, although a lot of weight is put on your wrists, this is not so bad becos I am tall and can sit almost upright without supporting my weight on my wrists too much. I like this riding postion cos it makes me feel in control of the bike. If you have back or knee problems and are shorter than me, it may be a problem.
If you go back one model to the A1, it has the same 636 engine but it is carbed and it is more comfortable (I think, I've never ridden one) The G and J models have a 599cc engine, I think the G is more comfortable from what I have read on the Ninja Forum. I have also had a C1 (the new underseat model) out while mine was being serviced. It was comfortable and civilised (like a Honda really :wink: ) but the throttle was snatchy and I hated that. The hooligan aspect has been removed from the B1 and the end result is 'Nice'
I prefer IL4s to the Vtwin cos I like the peaky power delivery and like to rev it - I learnt to ride on a two stroke which is very peaky! The power delivery is ace - just beware of the odd highside- keep it pinned an countersteer.
Things to note: I am lightweight (11st) and the back end is oversprung. As I can't/won't afford to get a new rear shock, I have removed all of the preload and damping. That has softened the back end calmed the front end enough that it doesn't need a steering damper. They talk of the front end being a bit frisky over bumps but as long as you sort the back end it will be fine. Because the back is oversprung, it doesn't squat under power and loads all the weight on the front end and you get the odd headshake/tankslapper. You can respring it which will cost about £100 - £150 so just take note of that when negotiating. Mine, a B1, is the 03 model, as far as I know they sorted the springing out for the B2, out in 04.
The front tyre as standard is a 120/65 which is an odd size and you can only get in Michelin Pilot & Bridgestones. I didn't like the Michelins so changed them for Diablos with a 120/70 section front which has calmed the front end as well and it is not as touchy. Although it is a sportsbike, I put Diablo Stradas on, due to the mileage I do, which are the same as Metz Z6s- they are great in the wet and although I have not done a trackday on them yet, I have never had any grip problems. Have put put about 6-7k on them and they are wearing well.
The brakes are fantastic, you really don't want them to be up to full strength during winter cos you will end up on your ass in a field if you grab a handful. :lol: The steering is very quick and takes a bit of getting used to. After having to wrestle the SV around corners it is a bit of an eye opener and you keep thinking that you have hit ice and are going down, when in fact it is fine and has a lot further to go. You learn to be precise with your steering and it is very rewarding when you match your input to the line and nail the gas on the way out of the corner :lol: Yeehah! If I think of anything further I will add it.
Any other Kwak owners want to comment?
Scooby Drew
01-03-06, 03:53 PM
Some more bits...
The power delivery is pretty 'progressive' below 6k - meaning on my ride in to Edinburgh I keep to 70 on the clock in sixth and when I come into town I just roll off to get down to 30 and then roll on again to get back to 70. If you want to get a move on you can drop a gear or two (or 3 :lol: )
When you hit 6k you get to the mid range and it starts to pull and you can notice the difference and should at least be a little awake cos it will then hit 7k where it starts to howl and pull hard. Around 8 or 9k it goes crazy right through to the rev limiter. It takes a little getting used to but if you like it, you wont be able to get enough of it.
The mpg varies according to how you ride - if you are enthusiatic and keep the revs up :wink: you wont get much better that 30-35mpg - this is how supersport bikes beg to be ridden. If you decide to commute on one and keep your head, you will get around 40-45mpg. It is all about resisting the urge to drop 2 gears and nail it past every car you see, just for the grin factor.
I keep a cargo net and a disk lock under the seat, there is not room for much more than a packet of crisps and a sandwich as well. Under-seat space is not something you'll find on many sports bikes. The bike came with a Baglux cover and I got a tankbag to fit. It suits me cos it is easy to attach and remove and has plenty space.
Drew
northwind
01-03-06, 03:55 PM
Also, when you drop it the scratches polish out well :wink:
Scooby Drew
01-03-06, 04:26 PM
Also, when you drop it the scratches polish out well :wink:
:oops: yada yada...
The replacement footpeg was expensive at £50 - no-one at all makes pattern parts for this bike.
What speed is it doing when it kicks at 8/9k in 1st? What speed does it hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd?
I have heard that some of the IL4 600's are a bit over geared for road use but the Kwak tends to have smaller gears and is better for road use?
By the way this thread is useless without pics! Lets have some!
Not really sure yet which of the IL4 600's I will get and whether I will go for new or a 2 or 3 year old used example. I'd like a 636 purely because my mate was about to buy one but his parents chucked him out forcing him to cancel and buy a flat instead! I am cruel!
What speed is it doing when it kicks at 8/9k in 1st? What speed does it hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd?
I have heard that some of the IL4 600's are a bit over geared for road use but the Kwak tends to have smaller gears and is better for road use?
My 600RR does over 75 in first (probably around 78 ish) and over 100 in 2nd (104 ish).
I don't think it is overgeared. Certainly doesn't cause any problems. Can pull away at 2 - 3k rpm no bother.
Peter Henry
01-03-06, 07:00 PM
Kawasaki ZX6's? Bloody marvellous! Love em. :wink:
I'm just curious as to how they pull coming off a roundabout at 30mph because even in the smallest gear they have they can't be producing much power and torque at those speeds? Not that it would put me off trading the SV for one but it would bias my choice towards which ever 600 had the shortest gears. I.e. I don't want the fastest track bike, I want the fastest 30 to 70 bike.
SV gearing suits me fine as I never go over 130. Any vehicle geared for 170mph is wasted performance to me as I'd rather trade the crazy top end for better acceleration and flexibility.
I'm just curious as to how they pull coming off a roundabout at 30mph because even in the smallest gear they have they can't be producing much power and torque at those speeds?
It's possible to wheelie off the roundabout at that speed in first. No probs. So I've been told obviously officer.
I read the post by that chap who bought a GSXR and he said it pulled as well if not better than the SV at low speeds. I would be curious to see dyno charts for these bikes compared to the SV to see for example which produces the most power in 1k rpm increments from 3k up to 10k.
Im struggling to believe that the IL4's produce more power until around 6 or 7krpm which wouldn't be a problem with sensible gearing...
As I said though I am not debating whether its worth trading in the SV for an IL4 but I am curious as to what it will be like in comparison.
ok im convinced ,im going to use the sv this yr over summer ,and over the 'down'period im gonna look out for a kwak 600.i learnt /am used to a 2 stroke so an il4 sounds ok ,i do like the low down torque of a v-twin buti want to see what a ss 600 like :wink:
Tigerrrr.......
01-03-06, 10:32 PM
Also, when you drop it the scratches polish out well :wink:
Hey Northy, do you mean after the first time, the second time, the third time, or some other time????
northwind
01-03-06, 11:41 PM
Think that, against the odds, he's only dropped it once ;) Unless you're hiding something from us?
(should be careful, I might get a slap tomorrow...)
Jelster
02-03-06, 08:56 AM
We're back on that IL4 600's have no bottom end/mid range again aren't we.. ](*,)
SV produces around 70 bhp - Hits the red at about 11k
SS 600 around 100 bhp - Hits the red at about 15k (or more)
If the power was truely linear in both, the IL4 would produce similar power to the SV until around 10k, when the SV would be running out of breath the IL4 would just keep going. And the bikes are geared accordingly.
As we know it's not that simple. In general, IL4's produce more power than the SV throughout the rev range, BUT the SV produces more torque than the IL4 lower down, enabling the bike to make beter use of the available power. So, there's not a lot in it, but an SV has better (or comparible) get up and go at lower engine speeds.
Where the IL4 catches up depends on the bike. The GSXR for instance is good at the low end, so is the 636. The 600RR and R6 are much more peaky, and lack a bit lower down.
However..... it makes very little overall difference in the big picture because you ride them differently. With an IL4 you just go into bends with higher revs, allowing you to apply the power on the way out. On a V2 you can afford to go in at lower revs as the engine has the grunt to push it out.
As for gearing, as IL4's rev higher, they can be geared longer, but in real terms, there's not a great deal of difference as you hardly ever run an IL4 at anything under 3k. IIRC, on my K4 GSXR, 100mph was about 8k in top, 70 was about 5k - not much different to my SV.....
And just to confirm any points about torque. Most IL4 SS 600's actually produce more peak torque than an SV, but the torque curve is not as flat...
.
Scooby Drew
02-03-06, 10:18 AM
I'm just curious as to how they pull coming off a roundabout at 30mph because even in the smallest gear they have they can't be producing much power and torque at those speeds?
It is best to get to 2nd before you get onto a roundabout because the throttle is a bit of an ON/OFF switch and you could end up going in the wrong direction very quickly- the acceleration is blinding! In the wet it will wheelspin for no reason so keep the clutch covered!
SV gearing suits me fine as I never go over 130. Any vehicle geared for 170mph is wasted performance to me as I'd rather trade the crazy top end for better acceleration and flexibility.
I need a new chain and sprockets at the moment and was considering changing the gearing for acceleration over speed but, with all of the commuting I am doing, I feel it is best to leave it standard for better fuel consumption.
Where the IL4 catches up depends on the bike. The GSXR for instance is good at the low end, so is the 636. The 600RR and R6 are much more peaky, and lack a bit lower down.
If you are thinking of trading a V2 for an IL4, you would probably prefer the ZX6 over the others because of the extra midrange. I rode an R6 back to back with the ZX6 and found it particularly gutless. Although the R6 is a fantastic handling bike and is fast, it has to be worked a lot harder to get anything out of it. This is not a criticism of the R6, I just didn't like it as much.
What is the 636 like in terms of corrosion resistance? I know standard kwaks are supposed to be pretty bad but I assume that supersports models tend to be built from higher quality materials?
Scooby Drew
02-03-06, 02:14 PM
What is the 636 like in terms of corrosion resistance? I know standard kwaks are supposed to be pretty bad but I assume that supersports models tend to be built from higher quality materials?
Prepare to spend a lot of time cleaning :lol: I spend a lot more time on it than I did my SV but I allowed that to get into a state and I vowed it wouldn't happen with the ZX. It is about on a par with the Suzuki. I am about to dismantle the brake caslipers and clean & bleed them for the second time since November but then I am doing about 1200-1500 miles a month through the worst that Scotland can throw at it.
What is the 636 like in terms of corrosion resistance? I know standard kwaks are supposed to be pretty bad but I assume that supersports models tend to be built from higher quality materials?
Are you planning to ride it all year?
My brother has a 636 as a toy and as such it is immaculate. If you ride in all weathers is will deteriorate even if you stay on top of the cleaning. A day standing covered in salt and waters shags them.
You have a CBR600RR don't you?
A guy at work rides his all year round and it doesn't appear to have suffered at all. Have you found the same with yours?
I tend not to ride when it is wet and salty but only because I know my bike can't take it - something I find frustrating but I only bought the SV to build up some NCB so I need to protect its future value for trade-in. I'd hope that my next bike will be something I want to keep a long time and really I want something that I can use in all weathers in which case it sounds like the 636 could be out?
Jelster
02-03-06, 05:27 PM
You have a CBR600RR don't you?
A guy at work rides his all year round and it doesn't appear to have suffered at all. Have you found the same with yours?
That's because it's a Honda :lol:
.
You have a CBR600RR don't you?
A guy at work rides his all year round and it doesn't appear to have suffered at all. Have you found the same with yours?
That's because it's a Honda :lol:
.
Yep!
Scoobs RR looks damn fine because of the love and attention that he lavishes on it.
He even lays it down when parking it to avoid wearing out the sidestand :wink:
RDOD wrote
mattSV wrote:
Scoobs looks damn fine.
It's all relative :wink:
Scooby Drew
03-03-06, 09:06 AM
You have a CBR600RR don't you?
A guy at work rides his all year round and it doesn't appear to have suffered at all. Have you found the same with yours?
I tend not to ride when it is wet and salty but only because I know my bike can't take it - something I find frustrating but I only bought the SV to build up some NCB so I need to protect its future value for trade-in. I'd hope that my next bike will be something I want to keep a long time and really I want something that I can use in all weathers in which case it sounds like the 636 could be out?
TBH, we can all big up our various bikes but at the end of the day you need to take a test ride on them b4 you make your decision cos it's down to what you like. I don't think you would be disappointed with either and any bike needs looking after in the winter.
Tigerrrr.......
05-03-06, 07:25 PM
Think that, against the odds, he's only dropped it once ;) Unless you're hiding something from us?
Sorry for the late reply, Northy. Just stopped laughing. That's the funniest thing I've heard in ages!!!!
Must go, need to start laughing again......
I've taken a look at some of these at the local Kwak dealer and 90% certain on getting one around June or July and will probably do a px so am just saving up the difference now.
I too have heard from another owner about the rear spring although I haven't test ridden one yet. I am also 11st so sounds like it might be an issue.
Has adjusting the springs sorted the problem or are you considering getting it resprung?
My local dealer has a green 2004 B1H with 9k on the clock for £4499. Personally I reckon thats a p*ss take given that you can buy new ones over the winter for £4999 and they lose £500 as soon as you ride them off the forecourt! What realistically should I be paying for something like that - up to 2 years old and 10k? Need to know what I can try and knock them down to although I guess they will factor it all into the px price on my bike.
I'd say that was £500 over the top.
I have been unsuccessfully trying to find more info on these.
I want to know how the BHP, weight in Kg and general performance differs from the carbed 636 A model to the B model?
I personally prefer the looks (by miles) of the A model and the more comfortable softer set up would probably be a bit more suitable for me plus too many people have told me that I'd have to change the rear spring on the B.
Personally I prefer FI as you don't have to mess around with chokes and have no carb icing problems or trouble when fuel evaporates in the carbs leaving a residue e.g. if I don't use it for a few weeks because of salt/ice. Any known problems? Plus does the A model have an auto choke like the last of the carbed cars or a manual choke like my old Bandit?
My other option is a GSXR from around 2003-04, I am wondering what year they introduced FI on it and how its power and weight compares to the kwak.
northwind
12-03-06, 02:27 PM
Can't speak for the Kwak, but the GSXRs got fuel injection before those dates. 750 got it in 98 I think. And it was rubbish :)
Jelster
12-03-06, 03:20 PM
Can't speak for the Kwak, but the GSXRs got fuel injection before those dates. 750 got it in 98 I think. And it was rubbish :)
I have to say the that FI on my K4 Gixer 600 was excellent. Standard it was fine, when I added an performance fiilter & can I had a remap and never had any "glitches" before are after.
.
northwind
12-03-06, 03:28 PM
Yep, but I'm talking about the SRAD version, which proceeds yours by 2 models :) Modern Gixxer FI's pretty damn good, but the first one was a step backwards.
I have to admit whilst I don't like the styling of the B1 636 I do like its rev counter and speedo...
I was looking at Corona GSXR 53 reg from 2003 if that helps. I assume the FI on that would be the same as the 04 model?
In your opinions which is best? 03-04 gixxer or the B1H? The B1H is the most expensive to insure by some £80 a year funnily enough (TPFT).
Jelster
12-03-06, 04:57 PM
I have to admit whilst I don't like the styling of the B1 636 I do like its rev counter and speedo...
I was looking at Corona GSXR 53 reg from 2003 if that helps. I assume the FI on that would be the same as the 04 model?
In your opinions which is best? 03-04 gixxer or the B1H? The B1H is the most expensive to insure by some £80 a year funnily enough (TPFT).
No, 04 & 05 models were different from 03, but not sure what the FI was like on that one.
.
valleyboy
12-03-06, 06:31 PM
I want to know how the BHP, weight in Kg and general performance differs from the carbed 636 A model to the B model?
I personally prefer the looks (by miles) of the A model and the more comfortable softer set up would probably be a bit more suitable for me plus too many people have told me that I'd have to change the rear spring on the B.
Right, from the user manual.... for B1H , B1H is fuel injected, it doesnt have an automatic fast idle for cold starts, it ises what would have been the choke cable for that instead.. suppose it saves on weight...Power stuffs below
Maximum Horsepower:
87kW (118PS) @ 13,000 r/min
(AU) 84.2kW (114PS) @ 12,000 r/min
(HR) 78.2kW (106PS) @ 12,500 r/min
Maximum Torque:
67 N.m @11,000 r/min
(HR) 63 N.m @ 10,800 r/min
AU = Australian Model
HR = Honeycomb catalytic converter
The bike has a Cat in the exhaust, thats why the things so damned big.... so I just put on an aftermarket can instead 8) so take off big ole' fat exhaust, and you free up a bit of power straight off
Dry Weight = 161 Kg
Which is less than the SV if I remember correctly ?
Could work out full weight if need be?
whatever a battery weights, plus:
1.8L of coolant = about 1.8 Kg
4L of oil = about 4 Kg
18L of fuel = 18Kg
Thats 184.8 Kg there... (without battery) anything else need adding? Fat Bastid rider?? :lol:
As for above numbers, Im sure one of the above translates into HP... somehow!
The A1P would be heavier, as they took off a lot of bits from that to save weight, thats why with the ram air for the B1H it goes straight through the headstock, with the A1P, it comes in from the side of the frames... chain is a 520, lots of little things like that to save weight....
as for rear shock.. depends what you want it to do... yes, its a harder ride than wht my SV was.. but hell.. it sticks to the road like glue! so Im not complaining :)
Yes, the B1H is a tad more expensive to insure, as its classed in the same group as the ZX-6 RR, and the CBR600RR etc... its 10 mph faster than a CBR600F
(top of 165mph) and makes more power than the ZX-6RR to boot.. right, using my trusty calculator...
87kW = 116.67 HP
78.2kW = 104.87 HP
Hope that lot helps... :lol:
northwind
12-03-06, 07:21 PM
I think I stopped believing dry weight and quoted HP the same day I found out there was no Santa Claus ;) A Yamaha exec admitted that when they launched one of the R1s, they knew it was heavier than one of the competitors and lighter than the others- but when they went to prepare the literature, they found that even an "honest" dry weight- ie no fluids, no battery, no tyres- would have made them heaviest in class. So they looked at the other company's made up figures and made up one that was accurate compared to those. Crazy...
But then, i suppose that shows the problem. Everyone exagerrates, so if one company was honest, it'd not only make their bike look the worst, but everyone would still assume it was all exagerated.
Scooby Drew
12-03-06, 09:11 PM
While I was at the Scottish bike show I spoke to a guy on a suspension stand (Penske, White Power Ohlins) who is going to do a spring for my weight @ £65, £45 to set the suspension up specifically for me and about £20-30 for labour to fit the spring, ride in ride out. The bike handles fantastically already so I think this will be the icing on the cake.
I have never ridden the A1 and wouldn't cos I think it is fugly but it comes down to personal preference. Try and get a test on both. Don't discount the B1 because of the suspension. It can be sorted and is a better mod than, say, an exhaust. Look on the Ninja web site I posted earlier cos there are always a couple bikes for sale. You can ask a couple questions there and see if you can get more detailed feedback on A1 vs B1 vs Gixxer...
northwind
13-03-06, 05:00 PM
That was the Ktech dealer? They seem very well clued up, I was interrogating them on saturday... Wish I'd known about them before i poste the Ohlins off to Ktech down south :roll: Actually quite tempted to get the Ktech cartridge kit now.
OH MY GOD WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!!!!!!!!
I just put a deposit down on a ZX6B2H! Silver brand new zero miles on clock for £4999. Was advertised for £5500.
I turned down a test ride as I knew I wouldnt be able to get used to one and exploit it going up and down a busy city centre road but I did sit on it. Flipping heck that riding position is extreme! I am 5'9 and am on tip toes when sat on it so the seat height must be loads higher than the SV. Foot pegs are also ridiculously positioned but it feels a lot more sporty.
Couldnt believe it though when they said I had to stick to no more than 45mph for the first 500 miles! WTF!!! How can I ride everywhere like that!
Got a free first service with free collect and return with the deal. Will be getting the seat cowling and am thinking about crash protectors. They are £120 odd? Worth it or no?
Insurance is even more bizarre! Ebike and Bennetts wanted £1500 comp online. Rang bennetts and got it for £700!!!!! Game on!!! I got the bloke to check it over a few time cos I couldn't believe it!
Scooby Drew can you give me that link to the Ninja website cos I can't find where you posted it?
fizzwheel
13-03-06, 07:41 PM
OH MY GOD WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!!!!!!!!
I just put a deposit down on a ZX6B2H! Silver brand new zero miles on clock for £4999. Was advertised for £5500.
That IMHO is a bloomin good price.
I turned down a test ride as I knew I wouldnt be able to get used to one and exploit it going up and down a busy city centre road but I did sit on it. Flipping heck that riding position is extreme! I am 5'9 and am on tip toes when sat on it so the seat height must be loads higher than the SV. Foot pegs are also ridiculously positioned but it feels a lot more sporty.
Couldnt believe it though when they said I had to stick to no more than 45mph for the first 500 miles! WTF!!! How can I ride everywhere like that!
Got a free first service with free collect and return with the deal. Will be getting the seat cowling and am thinking about crash protectors. They are £120 odd? Worth it or no?
Crash protectors are IMHO definately worth it, I shelled out extra and had them fitted to the GSXR they save an awful lot of damage IMHO
Enjoy your new bike 8)
valleyboy
13-03-06, 08:22 PM
R&G Crash bungs aint £120! think they are about £60ish... tops. I had mine put on at cost price :D my mates dad knew the owner of the garage, so he wangled a load of freebies.... discounted alarm, free smar****er, fender extender... though thats now off the bike, as it dislikes the 120/65 thats supposed to be on there!
Couldnt believe it though when they said I had to stick to no more than 45mph for the first 500 miles! WTF!!! How can I ride everywhere like that!
Horse****! They're talking bollox.
Scoobs wrote:-
Toypop wrote:
Couldnt believe it though when they said I had to stick to no more than 45mph for the first 500 miles! WTF!!! How can I ride everywhere like that!
Horse****! They're talking bollox.
Scoobs - that is the most sensible thing you have ever posted - IIRC I was supposed to stick to 5k revs for the first 600 miles on my SV1000 - which is still about 100mph in top I think :wink:
Me thinks they might have been pulling your plonker Toypop :lol:
Scoobs - that is the most sensible thing you have ever posted
I can be quite eloquent for a skate. :wink:
I said to them you must be joking, there is no way it is doing 45mph at 4000rpm in 6th gear but they are certain of it?
They gave me the owners manual and it says 4000rpm for the first 500 miles then 6000rpm up to 1000 miles.
So basically anyone with one of these bikes tell me what speed you are doing at 4000rpm in 6th and we will know if they are pulling my leg!
northwind
13-03-06, 09:20 PM
Constant revs on break-in is a good way to knacker the bores and rings. regardless of how you do it, whether you go for the "rough broke" approach, do it on a dyno or do it to manufacturer's advice, one thing they all have in common is varied loads and revs. So you don't break it in by doing 500 miles at 4000rpm on the motorway, for example.
Hope you enjoy the new toy ;)
See you brought the best colour Toypop,that makes 2 silver B2Hs in Bristol then,
only ever seen 1 other around here.
Ive never found a problem with the rear spring,they did change to a softer spring on the B2H models so see how you get on.
The 4000 rpm is correct when running in but i doubt if you be able to stick to it
once you run it in and your wrists stop aching you will love it :lol:
I shall keep an eye out for you!
So what speed is yours doing at 4000rpm in 6th?
I will do what I did last time which was try to break it in as much as possible on my commute as that is a lot of stop start with constant acceleration and braking. Bit more difficult when you go out on an evening down country roads though. Will probably slip over slightly as I did with my SV but only by 1000 to 1500 rpm or so.
Did you get yours from Bristol Kawasaki?
valleyboy
13-03-06, 09:35 PM
You want GREEN you do! :thumbsup:
Ive had mine since Jan 05,brought it from George Whites in Swindon though i did
test ride one twice at Bristol Kawasaki before deciding .
GW offered a much better trade in for my SV and it worked out several hundred pounds cheaper overall.
Cant remember what speed it did in 6th but the main thing is dont stress it in the wrong gear.Just take it easy running it in but your bound to rev it above 4k
as already metioned just vary the revs and all should be fine
Scooby Drew
14-03-06, 11:54 AM
Ninja form :arrow: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/ginge77/mcnninjas.jpg (http://www.mcnninjas.co.uk)
They did sort the rear spring for the B2 so you should be fine. As Mr North says, riding at constant revs is very bad, as is loading the engine (low revs, high gear). If you get out into the country, just vary your speed and go up and down the gearbox. 6k rpm in top will give you 70mph, 4k gives you about 50. I think as long as you keep it below 6.5k you should be fine.
Andy, while I was talking to the K-Tech guy, I mentioned the SV and apparently his gf has one. He was telling me about a mod for the forks that includes putting a valve in and improves them a hell of a lot. He seemed to have good credentials (does the suspension for the Scottish superstock champ, 51 sec lap of Knockhill) and sounded like he knew exactly what he was talking about.
He is in Dunfermline and details are
tel: 01383 841 752
email: ersracing1@aol.com
(this is not an endorsement by sv650.org yada yada...)
northwind
14-03-06, 12:24 PM
Yup, they'll fit cartridge emulators... Can't remember if they use the Racetech setup, or the modified Racetech bits that Traxxion use with the shiny damper rods though.
http://upload4.postimage.org/39749/ZX6R1.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/39749/photo_hosting.html)
Here she is!!!
Obviously I am stuck with running her in so I can't really go that quick. I am surprised though that even with the 4krpm limit it seems to pull every bit as well as the SV at low revs - even at 30mph in 6th.
It does sound lovely, far better on-bike sound than the SV with standard cans although the SV doesn't sound so bad when you are following or stood on the pavement.
The handling is something else. I didn't realise how much the SV resists being turned into corners. The ZX6R feels like a BMX in comparison and its amazing how easily you can avoid pot holes and weave all over the road. The bike just wants to turn-in and it feels so much lighter than the SV. I guess it might be considered too twitchy for a relaxed ride though and you can feel all the extra weight on your arms. One very big problem with it - your balls take an absolute pounding against the tank!
One question for other owners, I was supposed to get 12 months roadside recovery but was so excited at the dealers I forgot to ask and there is nothing in my bike pack. I guess I will ring the dealer tomorrow but do I get it when I receive the warranty registration from Kawasaki? At the moment I have no phone number or membership number in case I break down.
valleyboy
20-03-06, 09:34 PM
Aye, watch those speed bumps on the Kwak... I almost crashed after going over a small pothole... was rather painful.. a two hands off the bars painful... had to struggle to get one hand back on the bars before i swerved too much! :lol:
As for riding position, Im a tall bugger, so can sit more upright than I could on the SV for some strange reason! :P
Yep, it tips into the corners much better than the SV, its almost scary the first time you do it, as theres no throwing your weight in.. its already going over at the thought of an oncoming corner!
Get an aftermarket can, sounds much better :thumbsup:
Treacle
20-03-06, 09:34 PM
You want GREEN you do! :thumbsup:
:winner:
DanAbnormal
21-03-06, 03:05 PM
Coooo I've always wanted one of these beauties. Can't believe they can be picked up new for £5'000. Wish I'd have known that before I bought the SV. Oh well. I'll just have to look out for a 2nd hand one next year with low miles. Want a blue or green one.
Bike looks very 8)
So then, what is 4000rpm in 6th gear then?
GSXR Carlos
21-03-06, 04:40 PM
i've fancied one of these for a while but insurance for me is stupid, an 04 R6 works out at £500 fc, where my sv is £300, and something like this is £800, i fancied a GSXR600 but they wanted £1000 fully comp insurance, just need a few grand now to get a new bike :wink:
undecided as to wether i would actually part x my sv against something new or keep my first bike for posperity and winter riding :lol:
Yup I have got a top speed of about 45mph for the next 500 miles!
Insurance was a major issue for me. As I think I've said I got quoted £1500 online with Bennetts then £700 when I rang up.
Annoying thing is that I would never have bought my Bandit or my SV if I had known I could get insured for £700. Bought both those bikes and lost all that money for nothing when I could have bought what I really wanted in the first place.
Toypop, i think they send you the breakdown cover direct from Kawasaki/Rac
think mine arrived a few days after i got the bike if i remember correctly
Yeah its no good though cos they only take you to the nearest garage. So I just rang Bennetts and paid £50 for the full cover that includes home start and taking you to your destination.
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