what tuning should i do first?

[Dreadhead]

I'm wanting to upgrade my peformance on my 2001 sv650 in the near future but i dont know what would be the best thing to do first on it.
i was thinking about a yoshi full race system jetted up and K&N filter on but would this be the ideal thing for the first tuning process or can anyone think of something that will be as equall as good or even better for a cheaper and more descret tuning upgrade.

Any views
Thanks,
KeNNy

[Fuzz]

Have you thought about the timing advance mod? Much cheaper (£30 fitted, £18 if you know someone with a rotor puller) and you wouldn't necessarily need to inform your insurance company. I haven't done it yet, but those on here who have recommend it.

Someone else I have to remember posts on here aswell as BCF :wink:

[northwind]

If you buy new, and have it set up by a pro, breathing mods are horrendously expensive for the return you get on the SV... Talking £100 per horsepower, realistically. Though there are other benefits. Don't use a K&N, get a BMC Race RS (unless you live somwhere dusty)- very little benefit to be gained from a K&N on a curvy SV. I did it seriously on the cheap- used exhaust, Ebay jet kit, Race RS filter and individual jets from PDQ to cover the inadequacy of the Stage 1&3 DJ kit- cost me about £300 all in, and I've done the work myself. But that's a fair bit of hassle and ultimately, you don't know it's right without a dyno run.

If you do go down that route, it's worth checking out JHS Racing's Stage 2 dyno kit, expensive but I'd say worth it for the savings you'll make in labour (yours or someone elses). Includes the hard-to-find Race RS filter, and a jet kit modified to work perfectly with it. I'm no fan of the shop but the kit's a good buy. Alternatively, the Factory Pro Stage 2 kit is much the same deal.

I'd say cams are a far, far better buy than a full system. More invasive, for the inexperiencd mechanic, but not terribly hard to do- but you get similiar results for a fraction of the price, and no set-up work either. I fitted K3> intake cams, and moved my old intake cas to the exhaust side- very nice mod, and £200 all in. (or you could have my spare carbed model intake cams for £50, not as good a mod, but cheaper.

Gearing's a good place to start too- a typical standard SVS won't top out in top gear, so there's nothing to be lost by lowering the gearing for better acceleration. I went up one tooth on the rear sprocket last time, I'll go up another next time.

[Viney]

Failing that sell the bike and buy somehting faster in the 1st place ;)

[northwind]

10 points Viney.

[Dreadhead]

Failing that sell the bike and buy somehting faster in the 1st place ;)

But why would i do that as i'll just tune that the same as i have done with every vehicle i have owned even if it was a r1,z-x10r,cbr 1000rr or what ever they still get tune to the ******** as thats the whole fun about owing a bike "modding".

[Viney]

Failing that sell the bike and buy somehting faster in the 1st place ;)

But why would i do that as i'll just tune that the same as i have done with every vehicle i have owned even if it was a r1,z-x10r,cbr 1000rr or what ever they still get tune to the ******** as thats the whole fun about owing a bike "modding".
I agree, but there are better bikes out there that are more receptive to tuning. ;)

Like northy, i have spent money trying to go the zorst and filter route etc, and its a lot of money for not a lot of gain. I have always liked the cam idea, but never done it.

[Biker Biggles]

I reckon it would go much faster if you put a decent shock and set of forks on it.

[northwind]

I agree with that too :) Plus there's real cheap benefits there.

[Sid Squid]

A few track days/race schools/tuition of some sort.

Serious, and whilst not making any criticism of anyone, we could all do with a bit more talent/experience/clue etc etc.

There's more to come from every bike, even box standard SVs, we just need to find it.

[21QUEST]

A few track days/race schools/tuition of some sort.

Serious, and whilst not making any criticism of anyone, we could all do with a bit more talent/experience/clue etc etc.

There's more to come from every bike, even box standard SVs, we just need to find it.

Totally agree. All I'll add to that is suspension work.

Now I'm a Mod monkey but I can genuinely say it's comments like the above that have made me better.

Having learnt a lot(still much to learn) from the school of hard knocks :roll: :lol: , I know most folks would be better concentrating on other aspects and not trying to get a couple of ponies(I talk from experience). Not as painful as well.

I still don't class myself as a good rider but I do get quite exasperated by some of the riders I see especially if they have been riding for a number of years.

Looking to have some tuition this year if I can find the time.

Cheers
Ben

[Blue_SV650S]

I have an 01 SVS too. I have to say I agree with Viney, but if you are just into modding rather than looking for HP per £, then that is fair enough.

The first things I did to mine (it already had a can) was to do the retard eliminator mod and fited an 03 R6 throttle tube (kinda makes it a bit more ‘quick action’). I stopped there as that was about the end of the simple/cheap mods.

More expensive and extensive mods are to fit a later model cam, K&N, timing advancer. If you want to get really serious the you need to go down the pro tuning route, i.e. head skim and porting getting the flywheel lightened etc

You might want to consider some sort of air ducts to get nice cool air directed under the tank (where the airbox is), more complex still some sort of ‘ram-air system :)

[svrash]

I reckon it would go much faster if you put a decent shock and set of forks on it.

I agree......and a go faster stripe :lol:

[northwind]

If you want to get really serious the you need to go down the pro tuning route, i.e. head skim and porting getting the flywheel lightened etc


Not really worthwhile on the SV by all accounts... If you've got the barrels off you can rebuild with one less layer of gasket for a compression boost, which has much the same effect as deckingth heads a little, getting them skimmed (and squish properly measured) is better but much more work, potentially. No big gains from head work either, sadly. Cylinder Head Shop flat recommend against it, their words were "We'll do it, but it'll not be worth it, and we've got a reputation to think about". Which is rather nice of them I think.

[Grinch]

The best mod... eat less pie's.
Remove all the unwanted junk, make the bike lighter? Cost nothing to remove the heavy stuff... :D And those standard cans ain't light, if you look about you can get them rather cheap to.
Fork springs are a good mod as they don't make the bike faster but it handles better so you can keep the speed up. Think you can pick them up for about 70 quid.

[Dreadhead]

so every ones agreeing that i shouldnt bother doing anything to it then

[madmal]

been thinking of changing the fork springs to something more progressive. would it really make that much difference to the handling then :?: which would you recomend :?:

[Grinch]

been thinking of changing the fork springs to something more progressive. would it really make that much difference to the handling then :?: which would you recomend :?:

I've got progressive springs and it made load of difference... less fork dive for a start, something I noticed on the one I've just got. When puttin the power on in a courner I would find the front wheel skipped. Went away with the progressive springs.
I also got some 2002 preload caps fitted when the springs where out, and 15w oil.

[socommk23]

i say spend 500 bog ones ang go all out on a dry shot nitros system!!!!
dependant on milage 25 bhp will be safe!
that will give you the biggest bang for your buck!
hopefully not the engine that goes bang!
if its well looked after.....it can take it!

[Dreadhead]

but i wont constant power not just when i press a button more top end revs power for when im caining it along a straight

[socommk23]

then get a different bike!
if you can cane an sv on a british road and use it to its full potential, while 1. staying alive 2. keeping your licence... then id like to see it!
ive caned mine real bad! even over/undertaken other bigger bikes on awsome corners...and i have deffinatly not used it as well as it could be!
by the time you get to the high revs in high gears u either running out of road or running out of points!
fast is good!
quick is better!

[northwind]

if its well looked after.....it can take it!

It reeeeeeealy can't.

[Dreadhead]

then get a different bike!
if you can cane an sv on a british road and use it to its full potential, while 1. staying alive 2. keeping your licence... then id like to see it!
ive caned mine real bad! even over/undertaken other bigger bikes on awsome corners...and i have deffinatly not used it as well as it could be!
by the time you get to the high revs in high gears u either running out of road or running out of points!
fast is good!
quick is better!

But why get a different bike im still going to get points if i go fast so why not do it on the one i have allready.

and i wont more top end in the high revs not just for top end speed but for when its getting near the redline when setting off fast

[socommk23]

your not really making sense! in the end you want to go faster!!!
get a different bike!
tuning on any bike is limited!
1.change the final gearing for a longer top end...(sprocket sizes front and rear!)
2.end can and air filter might give you a couple of extra ponies!
3.higher revs needed?..then will need to change the limiter and then the valve springs to keep up wid the high revs
4.port polishing
5. skim the head!
6.big bore kit! 700 cc or 750 cc or even 800 cc if you really wanted!
7.talk to jhs racing!

[socommk23]

if its well looked after.....it can take it!

It reeeeeeealy can't.
never seen a nitros sv then! let alone one thats done 30,000m! didnt think so!

[kwak zzr]

sv1000s! job done.

[northwind]

if its well looked after.....it can take it!

It reeeeeeealy can't.
never seen a nitros sv then! let alone one thats done 30,000m! didnt think so!

It hasn't done 30,000 with the nitro running, that's for damn sure. SV bottom end's not good for that sort of pressure. Neither is the top end for that matter. Maybe you get away with it for a while, but it'd bite you eventually.

[empty]

Seriously, why do this to an SV? Its a budget bike, while the engine is pretty good, its never going to make huge horsepower, check with Mike1234 but 75bhp is very good going without some serious (and by that we're talking £££) work, and reducing reliablity. Selling up and buying a supersport 600 or a bigger twin will get you much more than this, probably for a lot less money.

As regards improving the bike you have, the order you should look at spending money on things is probably suspension, brakes then engine, the suspension is a weak point on the SV since it was built to a budget. Search the site, there are lots of options, some are more expensive/require more work than others. Brakes are OK but you may feel that more powerful/better feel brakes give you more confidence. Engine tuning options are somewhat limited, you've been given most of the options here (big bore, camshafts, race filters, exhaust systems etc). There are various race companies who will able to help you, since the SV is popular for the minitwins series. However you will be looking at serious cash for any big gains. I posted a site a while back about engine tuning which will give you some ideas, while it is more car biased it does explode some of the myths of engine tuning. http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/default.html

Nitrous - don't bother, unless you like replacing engines and/or have money to burn.

As Mr Squid mentioned, rider training/track days etc will give you the best return on investment, since they will work on any bike.

MT

[northwind]

Seriously, why do this to an SV? Its a budget bike, while the engine is pretty good, its never going to make huge horsepower, check with Mike1234 but 75bhp is very good going without some serious (and by that we're talking £££) work, and reducing reliablity. Selling up and buying a supersport 600 or a bigger twin will get you much more than this, probably for a lot less money.


I agree in principle... But modifying bikes is an end unto itself, it can be fun to do in its own right. Also, modified bikes are fundamentally more interesting than a standard one. A K6 GSXR1000 is faster, handles better, starts and stops, and is more economic than a Spondon-framed GSXR1100, but I know which one I'd sooner have.

75bhp at the rear wheel is neither hard or expensive to get to. On a carbed bike, you can see that with cams alone, for £200 of parts and an afternoon's work if you're lucky. Not particularily stressful on the motor either. Convensional wisdom has 85bhp as the ceiling for reliable tuning, but of course it depends how you get there. A big bore, for example, puts more strain on the bottom end than cams do, because of the greater reciprocating mass. Considering the longevity of an SV motor- realistically, several times more than most riders will ever ask of them- I've no concerns about working mine a little harder.

Myself, I'm looking at somewhere between 75 and 80bhp. I'd expect to be in the higher reaches but I'm not going to jinx myself ;) And that's £500 engine work total, including exhaust, jet kit, filter, cams and ignition advancer. Not massively expensive. Not cheap either of course, but even with the Ohlins rear shock, GSXR750 front end, the full system, cams, all of that, the bike still only owes me around £4000. I'm going to take that a wee bit further, just for the fun of it.

[Grinch]

I agree in principle... But modifying bikes is an end unto itself, it can be fun to do in its own right. Also, modified bikes are fundamentally more interesting than a standard one. A K6 GSXR1000 is faster, handles better, starts and stops, and is more economic than a Spondon-framed GSXR1100, but I know which one I'd sooner have.

75bhp at the rear wheel is neither hard or expensive to get to. On a carbed bike, you can see that with cams alone, for £200 of parts and an afternoon's work if you're lucky. Not particularily stressful on the motor either. Convensional wisdom has 85bhp as the ceiling for reliable tuning, but of course it depends how you get there. A big bore, for example, puts more strain on the bottom end than cams do, because of the greater reciprocating mass. Considering the longevity of an SV motor- realistically, several times more than most riders will ever ask of them- I've no concerns about working mine a little harder.

Myself, I'm looking at somewhere between 75 and 80bhp. I'd expect to be in the higher reaches but I'm not going to jinx myself ;) And that's £500 engine work total, including exhaust, jet kit, filter, cams and ignition advancer. Not massively expensive. Not cheap either of course, but even with the Ohlins rear shock, GSXR750 front end, the full system, cams, all of that, the bike still only owes me around £4000. I'm going to take that a wee bit further, just for the fun of it.

Can you be hired out to do the work... lol.

[northwind]

If you can afford my hourly rate... It's taken abouta year on and off ;) So that'll be. Let's see, £3.50 per hour- I'm cheap- £30,660. Plus VAT and parts. I'll give you a 20% forum discount :lol:

There's nothing I've done that's brain surgery though. Not all of it's easy, but I had fairly little bike mechanicking background before I started in on the SV, and it was all repair not improvement. I reckon anyone with steady hands and a sensible approach can do most if not all of the work I've done- and the information's all out there for free, if you can put it together.

[Grinch]

mmmh... I screw up even the simple tasks. I still have trouble getting brakes right. takes less time if I get someone else to do it!... :D

[Dreadhead]

This is what is was on about modding my sv to be different from the standard version im not asking to go 150+ on it, im just wanting more power just in general and to make it sound nice too.

No matter what bike id have it will always have loads of cash injected into to it because i like to spend my money this way (lets face it its better then blowing it all down the local boozer every weekend.)

I wouldnt mind getting the suspention worked over aswell as the brakes i wont to be able to show off my sv for all the modding it has had done to it when i go to bikes meet and what not.

[northwind]

That all sounds pretty familiar ;) Except the showing off bit, I keep on missing the rideouts to mess with the bike :roll:

[Tigerrrr.......]

Hello, Kenny.

Now, please don't take this the wrong way as how you spend your money and time is totally up to you, but....

It's already been hinted at in this post that instead of spending time/money on mods to squeeze a couple extra horses out the engine, etc, etc, how about actually learning to ride the thing properly in the first place?

Treat yourself to IAM membership for £85. You'll learn to ride the bike faster, safer and with more confidence. When you pass you'll get insurance discounts.

It's the best "mod" I ever did and really changed my riding style for the better.

Worth considering?

Best of luck.

[northwind]

Or you could do what I did, join the IAM at the bike show, then an entire year later finally get a date for your first observed ride... best £85 I've ever spent I can tell you :roll: I'm sure it'll be great once they get round to me, but AFAIC they shouldn't be taking people's money if they know they can't fit them in.

[Whitty]

I wish i had your enthusiasm(and brass! :shock: )I can hardly be bothered to clean mine.Turn key>fill up>ride>park up>brew and a buttie>ride home!Am I a lazy git? :? :lol:

[Dreadhead]

But what if i take all this advance riding things what then!

[Blue_SV650S]

But what if i take all this advance riding things what then!


I've already suggested what I did to mine (R6 twistgrip and retard) but forgot to mention that I put a 14t front sprocket on too, makes the bike just that bit more lively, much cheaper than any tuning mod too :D

[northwind]

But what if i take all this advance riding things what then!

Then we will allow you a small mod, perhaps some anodised bolts :)

[Dreadhead]

lmao its came with them on allready :lol: and i have got a anodised tax disc holder too

[northwind]

You're going to have to take them off. Sorry, I don't make the rules.

[Dreadhead]

lmao i know, erm but if i do a advanced test will i be qualifed to ride around with them on, i know im not safe with them on and i may kill myself with all the extra power they have givin to my bike