View Full Version : Chain adjuster seized.
The chain adjusters on the CBR screw into the swingarm. One of them is seized! What can I do to move it?
Brute force and ignorance? :D
The retard in my head is saying something about heat but I tend not to take her too seriously...
at a guess id try...wd40 fixes many a problem...and bute force may come into it somewhere (however i take no responsibility for any damage :D)
andy
Take it back to the dealer and demand a refund...Honds NEVER go worng
Samurai
03-03-06, 03:29 PM
Take it back to the dealer and demand a refund...Honds NEVER go worng
NEVER go where?
:wink: :lol: :lol:
That'll be the Honda build quality that everyone bangs on about :lol: :lol:
WD40 i'd guess to, then wait a while and try again..
timwilky
03-03-06, 04:07 PM
why are people suggesting WD40?. Personally I would use a penetrating oil.
Flamin_Squirrel
03-03-06, 04:15 PM
why are people suggesting WD40?. Personally I would use a penetrating oil.
Isnt WD40 a penetrating oil?
petevtwin650
03-03-06, 04:21 PM
Wd 40 is very lightweight, and it evaporates quickly. Useful in some circumstances, but something like 3 in 1 will stay "wet" for longer and can be left for a while to do it's work.
kwak zzr
03-03-06, 06:01 PM
sure your turning it the right way :D
chazzyb
03-03-06, 06:05 PM
Penetrating oil: Plus Gas or even diesel are the things.
sure your turning it the right way :D
It turns both ways :roll:
Do I look like a pillock?
Rhetorical question...... :lol:
wd40...why suggest it....hmmm...cos it solves pretty much anything :D and what it cant solve surely duct (gaffa) tape can
andy :lol:
kwak zzr
03-03-06, 08:16 PM
sure your turning it the right way :D
It turns both ways :roll:
Do I look like a pillock?
Rhetorical question...... :lol:
my kawasaki zzr 600 was a different kind of adjuster, it didnt have the lock nut it was tapped into the alloy in the back of the swingarm and when i tryed to tighten them they snapped clean off :shock: i had to replace both.
A penetrating oil such as plus gas is good, other than that, ping's little idea about heat can help, when my footpegs were not coming appart I dumped the whole thing in a bucket of really hot water for a bit and it was fine, a hot air gun may help you, or it may bubble and scorch the finish off your swing arm, so I think it may be too much :P
If you're bored, try a hair drier, if for no other reason thn explaining what you're doing to pasers by will help pass the tme :D
You only want heat if you've had a problem with rust as it will help break it up so you can loosen the bolt. If you add heat to the bolt now when its cold it will make it tighter, though a heating and cooling action make help.
why are people suggesting WD40?. Personally I would use a penetrating oil.
Isnt WD40 a penetrating oil?
WD40 is Water Dispersal agent # 40
it is not a penetrating oil although it does have some penetration abilities there are better penetrating oils PB Blaster comes to mind
A hand impact does wonders for loosening things that are siezed
You only want heat if you've had a problem with rust as it will help break it up so you can loosen the bolt. If you add heat to the bolt now when its cold it will make it tighter, though a heating and cooling action make help.
heating the bolt will not help, it will expand the bolt and make it tighter, you need to heat the metal the bolt is going into to expand the hole
some times heating everything then squirting the bolt with a shot of WD40 or penetrating oil to cool it quicker than the surrounding area will shrink the bolt
northwind
04-03-06, 05:21 PM
Heating and then cooling can have a loosening effect though. Making the stuck surfaces expand and contract against each other can seperate a corroded-together face.
A hand impact does wonders for loosening things that are siezed
Cheers Randy. I was thinking a sharp whack on the end of the bolt might do the trick. I've soaked it today. I'll leave it over night and try again tomorrow.
valleyboy
04-03-06, 07:32 PM
What was that?? Honda build quality?? :lol: :wink:
dont get that problem with my Kwak... :P though I doubt your pillion footpegs are turning into dust either from the salt! :lol:
petevtwin650
05-03-06, 07:22 AM
Plus Gas? You can still get Plus Gas. :shock:
That's a name from the past. Forgotten all about that stuff.
Plus Gas? You can still get Plus Gas. :shock:
That's a name from the past. Forgotten all about that stuff.
I've got a tin at home somewhere...
Have you got it shifted yet?
Sid Squid
05-03-06, 05:28 PM
You only want heat if you've had a problem with rust as it will help break it up so you can loosen the bolt. If you add heat to the bolt now when its cold it will make it tighter, though a heating and cooling action make help.
It doesn't matter which bit you heat, if they're stuck hard together, then the heat will travel from one to the other. However for the reasons mentioned below a hot air gun may not be the best way to go.
I can't think what form the CBR adjuster is immediately but if it's the variety where the bolt head pushes against the adjuster block, and you use an open ended spanner to turn it it normal circumstances, then remove the adjuster block (wheel out first of course), and use a ring spanner or socket on it, this may be all the turning you need.
If it still won't move, then a good sharp bop on the head, with a hammer will be a useful next step, don't clatter at it maniacally, make sure you hit it perfectly square, and wrap some rags/paper/whatever around anything nearby you'd not want to hit.
Heat: Is good for this sort of thing, not to much - you don't want to damage any surface finish - but the good news is that the swingarm is aluminium which has a far higher co-efficient of expansion that does the steel adjuster bolt, this means that as you heat it the hole in the swingarm will expand at a greater rate then the bolt will, which means it gets looser, (relatively, a bit, but then every little helps), downside is that aluminium is a damn fine conductor, (notice that aluminium is often used for heatsinks, no co-incidence), so the heat that you put into the swingarm will quickly conduct away from the area.
In practice the best way to heat up the end of the swingarm spar is to wrap the it tightly in rags, they must contact the surface as much as possible, and soak the whole thing in hot water, keep doing this until it is noticably hot, not just warm, then give it another sharp tap and try to turn the bolt out.
Doing it this way has the advantage of greatly reducing the risk of damaging paint etc, as the temperature can't rise above boiling point, (like when you're doing choccy cakes and you use a Bain Marie).
Ian,
Click here (http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0426/swingarm_03-04/swingarm_03-04.bmp)
Item 4 threads into the back of the swingarm. The offside one is stuck.
I will give your kettle trick a go and see if that helps.
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