Blue_SV650S
29-03-06, 09:00 PM
I actually wrote a series of these a few years ago when I started racing, mostly as an aid memoir; I race supersport so it’s written from that perspective, but what I said would be largely bike independent.
If you have never been to the tracks or just indulge in trackdays, or if you just fancy a read of a track from a riders eye; then you might find it useful?? :) I appreciate there is more than one way to string a cat, but this is my perspective.
First up Snetterton, I have done ones for Oulton (before they put the new chicane in) Mallory (again before new chicane) Cadwell (funnily enough before new chicane :D), I could amend them with the new chicanes, as I have raced at all these many times since the alterations, but … well lets see how they go down as-is first :D also done Brands Indy and Rockingham.
If I get positive responses from this, then I will post the whole series or whichever are requested.
Anyway, what the hell I have written them so only a cut and paste, enjoy!! :)
Snett
Going down the start/finish straight chin on the tank, this is a pretty long straight so deceptively fast with the pitwall on your right, drift to the left hand side of the track for Riches.
Right after the II marker board, brake hard. There are a few bumps here so the bike may come a little unsettled, but nothing to worry about. The corner is pretty wide and can be entered unbelievably fast. Turn in just past the I marker board, clip the right hand kerb just as the tarmac patch on the inside kerb runs out. There are quite a few undulations round this corner and if you drift wide these are minimised and you can carry more speed, come back in for the second apex then get hard on the gas and let the bike drift out to the kerb. Full chat to the next right-hander, Sears.
This is a Slow in - fast out corner. Sears tends to be a bit slippy (especially in the wet), this corner is all about setting yourself up for the backstraight, a good drive out is crucial. Hard on the brakes and turn in, the apex is about 70% round the inside kerb. There is plenty of run off at this point and you can actually cross the line and go on the tarmac the other side, but this tends to be slower than taking a tighter line, so only use if you have messed up a bit at Sears. Power up, watching for the highside and head down Rivett straight. This is an important corner to be in the correct gear such that you can get the power down for the Rivett Straight.
This is the longest straight in the UK so expect big numbers on the speedo, at this speed aerodynamics are crucial, tuck right in, this is quite scary as you are looking through the screen and 80% of you view obscured by the brow of you lid where you have your chin on the tank, keep your eye out for slow coaches or people missing gears. Depending on bike this straight is good for about 170 (600), you should be just hitting the limiter in top if the gearing is correct. Make your way to the right hand side of the track and watch for the marker board, braking here is crucial … there is a little mud track on the right just which is between the II and I markers (about 1.5), Brake really hard!!! start downshifting then turn in for The Esses.
The back will be light so expect the bike to squerm a bit here, but again nothing to worry about as long as you keep it planted for when you turn in, you will probably still be on 80% braking at this point. Start turning in just after the bridge and carry the brakes all the way into the left hander. Keep left and a quick burst of power, then hit the brakes again and flop the bike over hard for the right hander (hitting the front brake actually helps turn the bike here). Back on the power before you reach the right hand kerb and clip the apex. Get back on full power but watch for the highside/slide, drift left for the next corner, The Bomb Hole.
Roll off the throttle and turn in roughly where the surface changes in colour, then steady the bike on the power, many people go through the ‘bomb hole’ and apex there, I find if you go slightly wider (so you knee is just left of the hole) you can carry more speed as the suspension isn’t loading up so much, get back on the gas for Coram Curve.
This turn is difficult to get right, no not because it is particularly complex, but because it is so long and wide, it is a real balancing act. There doesn’t seem to be ‘A line’ through here but things can get a bit bumpy and slippy if you drift to far off the beaten track, about 1/3 of the track is all you need to use and you can keep a constant radius (ish). When about 2/3 of the way round you can really start winding on the gas. The kerb ends and you will drift out to the left on your approach to Russell Bend.
I prefer a tighter and slower entry here as it is more defensive and you are not asking so much of the left hand side of the tyre on the ‘flop’ of the ‘flip flop’ (the left hander here is notorious for offs as the left side of the tyre doesn’t get much heat in it at this track). Turn in just after the surface changes colour, it is a bit bumpy here and if you get it wrong the bike will refuse to settle … the turf here is quite friendly though! So if the bike refuses to slow sufficiently you can go straight on … On the right hand apex, just clip the far end of the painted kerb, bang the bike over to the left and clip the middle of the painted kerb on the left. Power up as you clip the left hand kerb, but be smooth, I then tend to get off the left of the bike here standing the bike up to get a better contact patch (and the warmer bit) of the rear, there is a tendency to drift on the kerb here, but this method helps you have some room for error (i.e. you can pull the bike back on you if you start drifting wide). Head back off down the Start / Finish straight.
If you have never been to the tracks or just indulge in trackdays, or if you just fancy a read of a track from a riders eye; then you might find it useful?? :) I appreciate there is more than one way to string a cat, but this is my perspective.
First up Snetterton, I have done ones for Oulton (before they put the new chicane in) Mallory (again before new chicane) Cadwell (funnily enough before new chicane :D), I could amend them with the new chicanes, as I have raced at all these many times since the alterations, but … well lets see how they go down as-is first :D also done Brands Indy and Rockingham.
If I get positive responses from this, then I will post the whole series or whichever are requested.
Anyway, what the hell I have written them so only a cut and paste, enjoy!! :)
Snett
Going down the start/finish straight chin on the tank, this is a pretty long straight so deceptively fast with the pitwall on your right, drift to the left hand side of the track for Riches.
Right after the II marker board, brake hard. There are a few bumps here so the bike may come a little unsettled, but nothing to worry about. The corner is pretty wide and can be entered unbelievably fast. Turn in just past the I marker board, clip the right hand kerb just as the tarmac patch on the inside kerb runs out. There are quite a few undulations round this corner and if you drift wide these are minimised and you can carry more speed, come back in for the second apex then get hard on the gas and let the bike drift out to the kerb. Full chat to the next right-hander, Sears.
This is a Slow in - fast out corner. Sears tends to be a bit slippy (especially in the wet), this corner is all about setting yourself up for the backstraight, a good drive out is crucial. Hard on the brakes and turn in, the apex is about 70% round the inside kerb. There is plenty of run off at this point and you can actually cross the line and go on the tarmac the other side, but this tends to be slower than taking a tighter line, so only use if you have messed up a bit at Sears. Power up, watching for the highside and head down Rivett straight. This is an important corner to be in the correct gear such that you can get the power down for the Rivett Straight.
This is the longest straight in the UK so expect big numbers on the speedo, at this speed aerodynamics are crucial, tuck right in, this is quite scary as you are looking through the screen and 80% of you view obscured by the brow of you lid where you have your chin on the tank, keep your eye out for slow coaches or people missing gears. Depending on bike this straight is good for about 170 (600), you should be just hitting the limiter in top if the gearing is correct. Make your way to the right hand side of the track and watch for the marker board, braking here is crucial … there is a little mud track on the right just which is between the II and I markers (about 1.5), Brake really hard!!! start downshifting then turn in for The Esses.
The back will be light so expect the bike to squerm a bit here, but again nothing to worry about as long as you keep it planted for when you turn in, you will probably still be on 80% braking at this point. Start turning in just after the bridge and carry the brakes all the way into the left hander. Keep left and a quick burst of power, then hit the brakes again and flop the bike over hard for the right hander (hitting the front brake actually helps turn the bike here). Back on the power before you reach the right hand kerb and clip the apex. Get back on full power but watch for the highside/slide, drift left for the next corner, The Bomb Hole.
Roll off the throttle and turn in roughly where the surface changes in colour, then steady the bike on the power, many people go through the ‘bomb hole’ and apex there, I find if you go slightly wider (so you knee is just left of the hole) you can carry more speed as the suspension isn’t loading up so much, get back on the gas for Coram Curve.
This turn is difficult to get right, no not because it is particularly complex, but because it is so long and wide, it is a real balancing act. There doesn’t seem to be ‘A line’ through here but things can get a bit bumpy and slippy if you drift to far off the beaten track, about 1/3 of the track is all you need to use and you can keep a constant radius (ish). When about 2/3 of the way round you can really start winding on the gas. The kerb ends and you will drift out to the left on your approach to Russell Bend.
I prefer a tighter and slower entry here as it is more defensive and you are not asking so much of the left hand side of the tyre on the ‘flop’ of the ‘flip flop’ (the left hander here is notorious for offs as the left side of the tyre doesn’t get much heat in it at this track). Turn in just after the surface changes colour, it is a bit bumpy here and if you get it wrong the bike will refuse to settle … the turf here is quite friendly though! So if the bike refuses to slow sufficiently you can go straight on … On the right hand apex, just clip the far end of the painted kerb, bang the bike over to the left and clip the middle of the painted kerb on the left. Power up as you clip the left hand kerb, but be smooth, I then tend to get off the left of the bike here standing the bike up to get a better contact patch (and the warmer bit) of the rear, there is a tendency to drift on the kerb here, but this method helps you have some room for error (i.e. you can pull the bike back on you if you start drifting wide). Head back off down the Start / Finish straight.