HELP!!!

[carelesschucca]

In my great attempt to change the fork oil I have now got my fork stuck at its shortest length...

How do I release it from this (only one's done it the other is fine)

oh and to give you a laugh at my expense I've just spent 25 minutes looking for a 10mm socket to find its still on the ratchet I left it on... D'oh!!!

[Cloggsy]

Ever thought of a single sided front fork system :?: :oops:

[carelesschucca]

yes about 15 minutes ago!!!

[Sid Squid]

It's stuck on the oil lock piece.

Just give it a tug, it's stuck down on the oil lock piece.

In the bottom of the fork there is a cone shaped spacer, when the fork is full of oil and compresses to it's full extent, the cone shape piece causes an hydraulic stop to occur so that there isn't a sudden metal to metal contact shock as the fork stanchion bottoms fully, in your case it's full of oil and requires you to overcome the 'lock'.

Clean the stanchion of oil so that you can get a good grip on it and pull hard, it'll come out.

The oil lock piece is tapered as you say, and if you let the fork fully compress then it'll stick on said bit, so don't, but if it should happen anyway, clean the fork stanchion so that you can grip it with your hands and give it a sharp tug and it'll come out and just be fine, no smacking of anything with hammers is necessary.

The oil lock piece is there so that when the fork is filled with oil and the suspension compresses fully, an hydraulic stop will exist before there is any metal to metal contact, this is intended to happen and is not a fault, neither of design or manufacture, it is intended to stop violent bottoming out and damage to the fork internals, and is a completely conventional feature of motorcycle forks and other hydraulic devices.

Another useful way to fit the seals is to take the old seal, and with a sharp knife cut away the lower inner part of the seal lip - the bit with the spring on it - also trim the rubber off of the outer face so that it will no longer fit neatly in the seal recess, voila - seal fitting tool, use with light hammer/mallet, a perfect fit and rubber faced ensuring no damage to the seal.

[carelesschucca]

i must be a complete girl I've not got the strength to move is... I'm starting to think I should run the bike with the short forks, it'll quicken up the steering...

[BILLY]

Put the slider in a vice and get a filter wench the strap type and twist gently!!! (sorry abiut my spelling i've had a few beers) :drink:

[northwind]

I managed it, and I'm not exactly mighty... But when we * did it to one of Jimmy's it took both of us to shift it.

*"We" in this case being totally Jimmy, I'd already done the other one and told him "be careful", 10 seconds later...

[454697819]

stick a piece of bar through the wheel spindle hole and TWIST and pulll

A bit of twistage is your friend..

ps i did the same.... 3 times... good aint it... :D

[Stig]

It's stuck on the oil lock piece.

Just give it a tug, it's stuck down on the oil lock piece.

In the bottom of the fork there is a cone shaped spacer, when the fork is full of oil and compresses to it's full extent, the cone shape piece causes an hydraulic stop to occur so that there isn't a sudden metal to metal contact shock as the fork stanchion bottoms fully, in your case it's full of oil and requires you to overcome the 'lock'.

Clean the stanchion of oil so that you can get a good grip on it and pull hard, it'll come out.

The oil lock piece is tapered as you say, and if you let the fork fully compress then it'll stick on said bit, so don't, but if it should happen anyway, clean the fork stanchion so that you can grip it with your hands and give it a sharp tug and it'll come out and just be fine, no smacking of anything with hammers is necessary.

The oil lock piece is there so that when the fork is filled with oil and the suspension compresses fully, an hydraulic stop will exist before there is any metal to metal contact, this is intended to happen and is not a fault, neither of design or manufacture, it is intended to stop violent bottoming out and damage to the fork internals, and is a completely conventional feature of motorcycle forks and other hydraulic devices.

Another useful way to fit the seals is to take the old seal, and with a sharp knife cut away the lower inner part of the seal lip - the bit with the spring on it - also trim the rubber off of the outer face so that it will no longer fit neatly in the seal recess, voila - seal fitting tool, use with light hammer/mallet, a perfect fit and rubber faced ensuring no damage to the seal.

Would you be, by any chance, saying that maybe a search would have found the answer to the question before it had even been asked :?: :wink: :lol:

[Sid Squid]

Might be.

[GSXR Carlos]

but if the knowledge base was working we wouldn't have to :lol:

[Sid Squid]

but if the knowledge base was working we wouldn't have to :lol:

True, very true.

You write it then.

No?

[rictus01]

you can also remove the fork leg, take out the internals, clamp the top in a vice and put a bar down the inside, sharp tap with a hammer and it's done ( although you should be able to pull it out).

Cheers Mark.