Chains - Tight spots

[Viney]

Why do chains get tight spots?

I understand that you get tight linkis and what have you, but why is it the chain gets tight in one place along its length? Is its the fact the sprockets elongate in one spot? Or just they do? Never understood it.

[Biker Biggles]

I think they should be called loose spots.When a chain wears it does so unevenly so bits of it stretch more than others.If it is then adjusted at the tightest point it will flap about at other points in the run,but if it gets adjusted at a looser point,it will pull tight at other points.Good quality sprockets should remain round at all times or all sorts of problems arise. :!:

[Viney]

Ah, now that would be a sensible theory, one that i hadnt thought of. Thank you

[chazzyb]

BB's summed it up nicely, I think. A chain doesn't actually stretch as such; wear between the pins and what they bear on takes place. This is why you can 'pull' a worn chain away from the rear sprocket.

[RandyO]

the o-rings get knackered over time too,

[amarko5]

think of it this way viney, if each seal was perfect and the steel was perfect and the same ammount of perfect lube was in there = chain wear evenly.


if the seals are not perfect and the metal in one or 2 rollers not perfect and a minute difference in amount of lube in chain = chain wear unevenly.


i bet you have never ever lubed a chain and sprockets with an even ammount on each roller ever.


so the above explanations of loose spots is far better than the tight spots people refer too :wink:

[thedonal]

Thought I'd resurrect this after a search.

I've got a couple of tight links on my chain- they are kind of kinked out of line a bit and I've noticed they creak around the front sprocket.
I've cleaned & lubed the chain (clearly not cleaned the chain often enough over winter) and the creak has lessened.

The tension still seems fairly uniform along the chain, so there doesn't seem to be a 'loose/tight spot' along the chain tension-wise.

So- with more frequent cleaning/lubing, can I work these tight links out? I've only done about 6-7K miles on the chain, which doesn't seem a great deal. How long should it last? (not sure of the brand, as was ordered in by fitters).

I'm looking at replacing it at the end of the month, unless I get a good excuse otherwise...

[thedonal]

Anyone?

[yorkie_chris]

Properly clean and lubed you've a fair chance that the kinky links can move again

[Ruffy]

...
So- with more frequent cleaning/lubing, can I work these tight links out? I've only done about 6-7K miles on the chain, which doesn't seem a great deal. How long should it last?
...
Yes, you should be able to.

Try using some thin penetrating oil, or ordinary engine oil and work the links until they move freely. It sounds like they have partially seized due to winter cack.

Once you've properly freed 'em, you should be able to lube with whatever you usually use and have many more miles happy chain life.

[thedonal]

Lovely- thanks folks!

Hopefully means a couple more months before that outlay then- though I'm due a new reg/rec as well- it never ends..!

[TheStudent]

I too am attempting to ressurect the thread lol.

I have some tight'spot'ness in my chain, not tight links, the conventional tight spots caused by chain stretch. I've cleaned my chain up pristine and re-lubed it today, and adjusted my chain to allow for the tight spots, hence, part of the chain is tightened perfectly, other parts a bit too tight, others a bit too loose.

What are the dangers of this? All i can think of is tighter parts may stretch but is there more and what about the loose parts? I estimate instead of 20-30mm, the worse part of the chain is more like 35-45mm.

EDIT: Just found this, not a bad article!

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php

Does anyone remember of the top of their heads how much standard a new chain (and sprockets if i have to change them too) for a curvy are?

Thanks, Tom.

[ThEGr33k]

If you use a scottoiler the front sprocket will go before the chain. Has on my old mans did 24000 miles on his chain on his 955i Sprint ST and the chain wasnt bad at all! The Front sprocket looked like 18 shark fins.

[yorkie_chris]

Does anyone remember of the top of their heads how much standard a new chain (and sprockets if i have to change them too) for a curvy are?

Thanks, Tom.

Don't get standard. Go to bandcexpress and get a tsubaki, about £85 IIRC for a heavy grade one.

[orose]

Definitely worth the extra outlay too - inspected mine earlier on, and the cheaper one I fitted about 5k ago is shot.

[yorkie_chris]

5k? What have you been lubing it with mate? Your own "natural" produce? :-P

[orose]

The outside of the can said chain lube, but the contents must have been something else entirely - the chain has about an inch of side to side movement.

[yorkie_chris]

The cheap chains are false economy. Tsubaki sigma is what I'm using with a scotoiler. I've seen one of those go 71k miles.

[21QUEST]

The cheap chains are false economy. Tsubaki sigma is what I'm using with a scotoiler. I've seen one of those go 71k miles.
Yup.

Although the OE chains appear to last quite well. Just fitted an endless OE one today so will see how it goes.

If buying after-market, I'll be going for highest grade(within reason). The higher grades do add a bit of 'noticeable' weight. I did a double take when I arquired an Tsubaki SGX(or other) and had to double check that had the correct chain :lol: .

All that said, some folks appear to get good mileage from 'economy to mid-range' after market chains but not for me.....and I loob my chain virtually every day.



Ben