View Full Version : Cheap Alarm : Fitted Update
I'm one for a damn good bargain (as testified by the fact I just recently bought a Loobman instead of a Scottoiler - btw, if anyone wants pic's I'll happily oblige).
Whilst browsing around the 'tinternet for an alarm for my new K6, I found this (http://www.motorbikealarm.co.uk/buy_now.html). While the Cyclone C-11 might not be recognised by insurers (I'm not sure yet, haven't talked to my insurance co), surely it's a better deterrant than nothing. For £26.99 inc delivery (speaking version), I'm not complaining. Even though they have said they haven't got any available for a week.
Just figured I'd share this for any of you guys like me, mere mortals that want to spend three figure sums on alarms, but have a family, house, etc & your postman only ever delivers letters in brown envelopes :(
If anyone is unsure of fitting etc, just hold off a while & I'll post back when I've fitted it.
I could not stand my bike saying "Welcome to the cyclone C11 alarm system" when i turn it on.
Kilted Ginger
18-07-06, 02:43 PM
:) let me know how you get on whith this, like you not paying £300 for an alarm
I'm very nifty with a soldering iron, a digital multimeter, and an EEPROM programming kit. I don't intend to have the factory default vocals for long (maybe something like knight rider but haven't put much thought into it yet). I suppose just not recording a volcal for ignition start might work, but I might have to put a JMP sequence in.
Regardless, for the sake of having an alarm on it and it not costing the earth, I'm not that scared of ?!#%ing it up.
Kilted, if my progress with the EEPROM goes well, I could even start marketing them (with manufacturer premission obviously)... prototype costs expected to be around the £10 mark inc P&P.
Spiderman
18-07-06, 02:45 PM
I could not stand my bike saying "Welcome to the cyclone C11 alarm system" when i turn it on.
I thought that, or it telling me to "Please arm the alarm" as i walk away for a minute.
Other than that the first non chatterbox version seems too cheap to be true. Remote engine start, anti hijack etc. The sort of features you'd expect on something 10x the price.
Spiderman
18-07-06, 02:49 PM
I'm very nifty with a soldering iron, a digital multimeter, and an EEPROM programming kit. I don't intend to have the factory default vocals for long (maybe something like knight rider but haven't put much thought into it yet). I suppose just not recording a volcal for ignition start might work, but I might have to put a JMP sequence in.
Regardless, for the sake of having an alarm on it and it not costing the earth, I'm not that scared of ?!#%ing it up.
OOOh, see now if i knew how to record what i want it to say i'd get one of those.
My mate has one that starts off nicely "This bike is alarmed, please move away fron the bike" in a very friendly but firm tone of voice.
Then "This vehicle is alarmed, moved away NOW!" followed a fews seconds later by "I TOLD YOU TO GET THE F**K AWAY FROM THIS BIKE, NOW MOVE IT!!!!" and a split second later the very loud police siren type alarm goes off. :lol:
I'm very nifty with a soldering iron, a digital multimeter, and an EEPROM programming kit. I don't intend to have the factory default vocals for long (maybe something like knight rider but haven't put much thought into it yet). I suppose just not recording a volcal for ignition start might work, but I might have to put a JMP sequence in.
Regardless, for the sake of having an alarm on it and it not costing the earth, I'm not that scared of ?!#%ing it up.
OOOh, see now if i knew how to record what i want it to say i'd get one of those.
My mate has one that starts off nicely "This bike is alarmed, please move away fron the bike" in a very friendly but firm tone of voice.
Then "This vehicle is alarmed, moved away NOW!" followed a fews seconds later by "I TOLD YOU TO GET THE F**K AWAY FROM THIS BIKE, NOW MOVE IT!!!!" and a split second later the very loud police siren type alarm goes off. :lol:
All very possible Spidey, just a matter of know-how. To be honest, I'm a complete noob when it comes to bikes (mainly lacking tools/time/confidence), but electronics is a different story. Give me a bunch of wires, components & a lot of solder, and I'll build you a super computer (although, you'd need to buy a warehouse to keep it in).
I'll keep you posted as to how I get on, and obviously I need the kit in front of me before I know for sure, but what I'm expecting is to be able to re-code any MP3 (or CD etc) & write it to a replacement EEPROM chip. Basically, copy the old chip, overwrite the relevant parts, and replace the new chip in the socket. Job done (hopefully). Reversee engineering can be a bit hit & miss though.
Edit: Anyway, I suppose I'd best get on with my work....
Seems very cheap. if thier claims are to be believed, then it should be ok. Sort of the Harry moss/Sparkrite of the bike alarm!
The remote start won't work on a carbed bike as you may need the choke, but all good for, as you say a deterrent.
Also, my current insurer approves it and offeres a discount....probably only once installed with by an approved installer.
I have an alarm on my SV, but might get one for the girlfireds bike, the non talking one.
I'm very nifty with a soldering iron, a digital multimeter, and an EEPROM programming kit. I don't intend to have the factory default vocals for long (maybe something like knight rider but haven't put much thought into it yet). I suppose just not recording a volcal for ignition start might work, but I might have to put a JMP sequence in.
Regardless, for the sake of having an alarm on it and it not costing the earth, I'm not that scared of ?!#%ing it up.
Kilted, if my progress with the EEPROM goes well, I could even start marketing them (with manufacturer premission obviously)... prototype costs expected to be around the £10 mark inc P&P.
Now thats a good idea, but.... And i think its a big but, most manufs cover the board in epoxy to stop peeps playing around like that and also tampering.
Now thats a good idea, but.... And i think its a big but, most manufs cover the board in epoxy to stop peeps playing around like that and also tampering.
True enough, but I do quite a bit of work in this field (I also make/repair/design building security sytems for a friend who runs his own consultancy company). I've got a few bottles of EPOSOLVE 25036 kicking around for just this eventuality. Soak the PCB in this wonderful liquid, rinse, wipe off any residue, clean board. Just put epoxy back on when you're done.
If anyone's interested in some, I usually get it from the states, but there's companies like Miller Stephenson in the UK.
OK, so it finally arrived. At first the payment wasn't processed by my bank (not happy about that), then I paid by paypal. This time paypal had my old address, and so the alarm went there. It then went to the local sorting office, but since this isn't my local sorting office I didn't have chance to get there, and it went back to the manufacturers. Bu**er. So then I had to call them, and explain. They were helpful enough, but I still had to pay £3 for re-posting. No big deal I suppose.
Well, I finally got chance to fit it yesterday. It's actually stupidly easy to fit. 2 yellow wires into the 12v+ on the rear indicators (light green & black & white respectively), then +ve and -ve from the main alarm unit to the battery. That's it, basics installed.
Next came the job of cutting the ignition wire. This wasn't something I was particularly relishing. So I decided to be crafty. I split the orange wire going into the main fuse box (diagram says this comes striaght from the ignition into the fuse box). Then I put a male & a femal bullet connector on the end, just incase anything went wrong, I knew I could plug the wire back together.
These two bullet connectors then ran off to the coil of a relay using some extra wire. Then the brown wire from the alarm was linked to earth (-ve battery terminal) via the NC circuit on the relay. This meant that all the bells and whistles on the alarm worked perfectly, so I adjusted the sensativity as per the manual. [Edit: This paragraph is utter non-sense, please ignore it & continue reading :D ]
One problem, I had no ignition. Well, I did, but no speedo and a very dull neutral light. Headlight & tail lights worked, indicators worked. Starter button didn't. Bu**er. So I've taken the relay out for now & it works fine on the basics (shock sensor). I'm looking into why I had no ignition/starter with the relay, but my craftyness means I can use the bike still.
All in all, £30 well spent IMO. Nice loud alarm, and took me around 30mins to install (not including head scratching time as to why the ignition didn't work). One modification I am wanting to make is to add a tilt switch, so that the alarm knows as soon as the bike is lifted from it's side stand. At the moment, it doesn't, but it will complain if you sit on the bike.
Maybe worth me mentionning that the manual for the alarm says that if you want the remote start option, you have to bypass the clutch & side stand switches. This doesn't sound appealing to me. I've always pulled the clutch in when starting any engine, and I'm told it helps save engine wear (at the expense of the comparitively cheaper clutch). But, if I were to do remote engine start, I know I'd be crossing the road, hit the button putting my gloves on as I walk. Then have to pick the bike up because I'd unusually left it in gear. Damn. So I'll not be taking that chance tyvm!
Edit: Without the ignition wire (brown from alarm) connected, you don't get the 'Welcome to the Cyclone-C11 system' or 'Please arm the alarm' vocals.
I have just fitted the Cyclone C11 non-talking alarm to my bike. I haven't tried the immobiliser function yet because I haven't got a relay (I've ordered one). At the moment it is very sensitive if you knock the panel near where the unit is installed (on the lowest sensitivity you can tap it normally with a fingernail and the alarm goes off), but you can sit on the bike, roll it backwards and forwards, apply the brakes and the alarm doesn't do anything. If I put it on the highest sensitivity, you can still get on the bike but if you move it backwards or forwards the alarm sounds. However, on its highest if you very lightly tap the area where the unit is installed it alarms.
Because even on it's lowest sensitivity it is too sensitive around the area where the unit is, I might try putting some extra padding between the unit and what it is attached to. I might also add a tilt switch like you, Baph, so it sounds straight away if the bike is lifted from its stand.
I think it is a bit too loud when arming and disarming (it chirps at the same volume as when the full alarm sounds), but the volume for the full alarm is good. I am not going to use the remote starting option either.
...I haven't got a relay (I've ordered one). ...
The relay I bought was Maplin stock # N00AW (IIRC). Approx £2, but I think the coil is giving too much resistance for the ECU to function properly. It's a 40A relay & in the next few days I'll call off again & swap it for a 30A. Failing that, I'll hunt for a 20A.
I found the same as you with the sensitivity, which is why I'm thinking of a tilt switch. I've emailled nigel asking his advice. At the moment, I think that if I wire it into the same place as the ignition on the relay it should set the alarm off. This would fool the alarm into thinking the ignition has been turned on just by picking the bike up and activate the brown wire.
Let me know how you go with the relay :)
I haven't fitted the relay yet, as it only arrived yesterday and I probably won't have time for a few days. However, I have done a bit of a modification about the sensitivity. I found that the alarm was just too sensitive even when adjusted to its lowest setting. If you knocked a panel near where the unit was located the alarm would sound.
I decided to open up the case and have a look inside to see if there was anything else I could do about it. Inside there is a vibration sensor with a spring attached to it. The spring is to make the vibration sensor more sensitive, by amplifying any knock to the bike and triggering the sensor. I decided that to make it less sensitive I would shorten the spring, so I cut a piece off the end making it about 1/2 - 2/3 its original length. I put the case back on, attached the unit back to the bike, and the plan worked. The alarm is now less sensitive to small knocks.
Next I plan to wire up the immobilisation part with the relay, and to add a tilt switch. Did you get a reply from Nigel about the tilt switch Baph?
I split the orange wire going into the main fuse box (diagram says this comes striaght from the ignition into the fuse box). Then I put a male & a femal bullet connector on the end, just incase anything went wrong, I knew I could plug the wire back together.
These two bullet connectors then ran off to the coil of a relay using some extra wire. Then the brown wire from the alarm was linked to earth (-ve battery terminal) via the NC circuit on the relay.
Baph, I'm confused. If you cut the orange wire that goes from the ignition to the fuse box, and connect the ends to the relay coil connections, all that does is energise the relay coil when you turn the ignition on - how does that immobilise the bike? If the brown wire is linked to earth via the NC circuit on the relay, then when the coil is energised this circuit is open and the brown wire is no longer earthed, but why would you want to do that?
I might be talking rubbish here, so correct me if I'm wrong!
In the instructions I've got, (for method B involving the relay) it says that the brown wire goes to relay coil and then the other coil pin is earthed, so that the coil is energised when the brown output wire from the alarm is live. The ignition wire is cut and connected to the NO terminals of the relay, so that when the coil is not energised (i.e. there is no output on the brown wire), the ignition is immobilised. Have we got different instructions?
Just to confuse matters further, I emailed Nigel about how I could connect a tilt switch, and he said that the only suitable wire is the brown one, and that the brown wire is negative trigger so the tilt switch would have to be wired to the positive battery terminal (or other supply) and then to the brown wire. That doesn't make sense with the instructions I've got, which show the brown wire as energising the relay coil.
:?
Nutter,
How did you get a reply from Nigel before I did? :shock: :lol:
Yes, my mistake when writing it up for folks on the forum, the brown wire trips the relay switch (energising the coil & activating the Change Over part of the relay). The orange wire, as you said, is connected through NO.
As for the brown being a 'negative trigger,' I was taking that for granted. When the alarm is armed, the brown wire is NOT active, therefore the coil isn't active, and the switch in the relay (orange wire) is open (not active) and therefore immobilised. With the alarm de-activated, the brown is active, therefore relay is closed, and ignition is possible. (I assume).
Since the brown wire is a trigger, if you change its state when the alarm is armed, it triggers the alarm. As said, when the alarm is armed, the brown is NOT active. If you wire brown > relay > tilt > ground, this will have the following effect:
1) alarm is armed, therefore brown active.
2) tilt switch closed therefore circuit complete
3) bike gets picked up, tilt opens & brown not complete, therefore alarm triggers.
Least, thats my take on it. Not sure why Nigel said about the battery.
(Excuse me if I'm talking non-sense right now, kids causing havoc. I'll re-read & probably re-write later)
Edit: In theory, it all sounds OK, depending on the angle of the tilt switch when installed. When I next get chance to tinker (this weekend hopefully) I'll play around with my multimeter a little to work out exactly what's going on inside the little box o' tricks.
Maybe when you two have sucessfully installed the fully functional alarm between the pair of you, one of you might like to put it all down in plain idiot proof english so the likes of myself can copy it. :wink: :lol:
For that price, I would get both my bikes alarmed.
BigApe, When i've done, I'll happily draw up some proper schematics that those who don't think in terms of electricity flowing towards negative (it does, honestly) can understand. :)
Edit: Check out the website in my very first post on this thread, they've released a newer alarm. Including bells & whistles like 1/4mile operation, and "2 way communication" but I'm not sure if that means the keyfob will sound in your pocket if the alarm sounds. That would be damn handy IMO!
Nutter,
How did you get a reply from Nigel before I did? :shock: :lol:
I must be lucky! :lol:
Since the brown wire is a trigger, if you change its state when the alarm is armed, it triggers the alarm. As said, when the alarm is armed, the brown is NOT active. If you wire brown > relay > tilt > ground, this will have the following effect:
1) alarm is armed, therefore brown active.
2) tilt switch closed therefore circuit complete
3) bike gets picked up, tilt opens & brown not complete, therefore alarm triggers.
Do you mean not active in step 1? You said in the paragraph before it that when armed, brown is not active.
If you wire brown > relay > tilt > ground, in order to complete the circuit to energise the relay so that the ignition circuit is completed the tilt switch would have to be closed. That means the bike would only start if it was on its stand so the tilt switch closed, and would stop when the bike was stood up, the tilt switch opened and the circuit for the relay coil was then open.
When I next get chance to tinker (this weekend hopefully) I'll play around with my multimeter a little to work out exactly what's going on inside the little box o' tricks.
You're right, tinkering with a multimeter is definately needed to find out what's going on and what needs to be connected how. I wonder if it would work by splitting the wiring for the brown wire so that the tilt switch comes off it before the relay and to ground (i.e. brown wire is connected to relay which goes to earth, and brown wire is also connected to tilt switch which goes to earth). Then maybe it triggers when the tilt switches closes rather than opens. Just a thought. :-k
Let us know how you get on at the weekend.
Just had to draw myself a little diagram :oops:
Brown active, relay energised, ignition.
Brown inactive, relay coil not energised, ignition impossible. This state is the alarm armed (obviously). If you activate the brown (using the tilt) it would (read: should) consider this a tamper event and all hell break loose.
So if we're after activating the brown wire, it must just go brown > tilt > earth, completely ignoring the relay. That would make it a parallel circuit.
A parallel circuit would also mean that the ignition electrics wouldn't give a hoot about the state of the tilt, so shouldn't, in theory, cut the ignition half way around a corner!
Hopefully I've got this right in my mind, but only a real world play around will tell me for sure (unless I want to get arty & break out my electronics CAD software).
That sounds right I think. Well, at least it's what I was trying to say anyway! I still don't understand why Nigel told me why the brown why needs a positive input to trip the alarm though. His exact words were "The only wire that can trigger the alarm in such a way is the brown. The tilt switch will need to be connected to the positive, rather than earth as the brown requires a positive voltage to trigger the alarm."
"The only wire that can trigger the alarm in such a way is the brown. The tilt switch will need to be connected to the positive, rather than earth as the brown requires a positive voltage to trigger the alarm."
Brown inactive, relay coil not energised, ignition impossible. This state is the alarm armed (obviously). If you activate the brown (using the tilt) it would (read: should) consider this a tamper event and all hell break loose.
Ah yes I see that now. I'm not sure about the internals of the alarm, but maybe he means something like:
[brown wire] - [Tilt] - +[12v battery]
This would then be earthed by the alarm itself.
Tinkering required....
Right, I've just this minute had another reply from Nigel, and he confirmed that the brown wire is dual purpose and both supplies voltage to the relay coil when active, and receives voltage from a tilt switch when not active.
However, that presents another problem, which I've replied to him to ask about.
If the brown wire is connected to the relay coil, and then the relay coil to earth, and also the tilt switch is connected to positive and then to the brown wire, that means that if the tilt switch is activated the brown wire receives positive input, which will also flow into the relay coil and to earth energising the relay. That means that if the tilt switch is activated, the relay activates and allows the ignition to operate and the bike is no longer immobilised.
If the brown wire is connected to the relay coil, and then the relay coil to earth, and also the tilt switch is connected to positive and then to the brown wire, that means that if the tilt switch is activated the brown wire receives positive input, which will also flow into the relay coil and to earth energising the relay. That means that if the tilt switch is activated, the relay activates and allows the ignition to operate and the bike is no longer immobilised.
Quite right that. Maybe a logic NAND (via a triac) might be the answer to that problem. Tilt NOT active AND brown active == ignition.
Edit: Utter non-sense that, you'd need a few triacs to achive the result. Only 1 traic means you'd go round a corner and activate the tilt, ignition would cut out! :shock:
I had chance to try some things with the multimeter this afternoon, and here's what I found out.
Brown Wire
- Disarmed = acts as earth. Does nothing to alarm.
- Armed = acts as earth and sounds alarm, but only whilst voltage being applied through it (i.e. touch to positive and alarm sounds, but as soon as removed from positive alarm stops. Does not latch on).
- Does not supply power in any state.
Blue
- Does not seem to do anything in any state.
Pink and Grey
- Seperately, pink and grey appear to do nothing.
- However, checking for continuity I found that when used together they appear to connected to the switch terminals on a relay.
- They allow power to flow through when the alarm is armed, but do not allow power to flow through when the alarm is disarmed. They seem to act like the NO terminals of a relay and the alarm being armed energises the coil.
Based on the fact that the brown never supplies power in any state, the only way I can see immobilisation working is by connecting pink to the positive battery terminal, grey to the coil connection of a relay, the other coil connection to earth and wiring the orange ignition wire to the NC connections of the relay (which would effectively just be reversing the actions of the alarm's internal relay connected to the pink and grey wires, so acting as a NOT gate).
In any case, either the instructions are wrong or my unit is faulty.
I added a tilt switch onto mine, but found another problem. The brown wire is the one designed to be connected to the ignition so that when the ignition is turned on the alarm sounds. It's the only wire that does this, and so Nigel suggested I used it if I wanted to add a tilt switch. I hadn't ridden it since fitting until today, and as I rode down the road the indicators kept lighting up for about 5 seconds at a time. I went back home, and suspected it was something to do with the alarm so started thinking what it could be. It turns out that one way of disarming the alarm (e.g. in case your remote breaks) is to switch the ignition on and off a certain number of times. As you ride along and the tilt switch gets turned on and off, this has the same affect, so the alarm keeps trying to disarm and lights up the indicators. Oh, and every time you put the bike on the sidestand the alarm beeps to remind you to switch it on (very annoying). So the tilt switch idea doesn't work.
I've binned the alarm now; it's just too problematic. I found it was too sensitive if you just touched certain parts of the bike, but wouldn't go off if you stood the bike up, sat on it and jumped around, the installation instructions are just wrong it will not immobilise the bike as described (Nigel never did reply to me about that issue with the brown wire never supplying power), you can't add a tilt switch and it just doesn't work well as an alarm.
I know you might have a different opinion, Baph, because it stopped your bike being stolen. I've given up with it though. I think if I decide to get another alarm it will be a proper Cat 1 professional job (but they're expensive, so I'll probably just not have one).
[quote="Baph"]I'm one for a damn good bargain (as testified by the fact I just recently bought a Loobman instead of a Scottoiler - btw, if anyone wants pic's I'll happily oblige).
^^
yes please,how do you like it, iwould you recomend it, or pay an extra£50 for a scottoiler. wher did you fit it?
[quote=Baph]I'm one for a damn good bargain (as testified by the fact I just recently bought a Loobman instead of a Scottoiler - btw, if anyone wants pic's I'll happily oblige).
^^
yes please,how do you like it, iwould you recomend it, or pay an extra£50 for a scottoiler. wher did you fit it?
Is it any good and was it easy to install in a stealthy(ish) location?
Maybe worth me mentionning that the manual for the alarm says that if you want the remote start option, you have to bypass the clutch & side stand switches. This doesn't sound appealing to me. I've always pulled the clutch in when starting any engine, and I'm told it helps save engine wear (at the expense of the comparitively cheaper clutch). But, if I were to do remote engine start, I know I'd be crossing the road, hit the button putting my gloves on as I walk. Then have to pick the bike up because I'd unusually left it in gear. Damn. So I'll not be taking that chance tyvm!
Why can't you bypass the clutch switch, but not the sidestand switch? Then it won't start in gear.
Dangle_kt
30-09-06, 09:54 PM
[quote=Baph]I'm one for a damn good bargain (as testified by the fact I just recently bought a Loobman instead of a Scottoiler - btw, if anyone wants pic's I'll happily oblige).
^^
yes please,how do you like it, iwould you recomend it, or pay an extra£50 for a scottoiler. wher did you fit it?
Is it any good and was it easy to install in a stealthy(ish) location?
I bought one of these a few years ago.
WASTE OF MONEY!
Did not like it one bit, it made the bike look rubbish as there wasn't anywhere I could put it that I could easily access while riding (if you do it while off the bike it just ends up a big oilly puddle on your drive!)
also it was a ball ache to fit, as it's all very ....well...bodged!
if you don't mind messing around with low grade parts to end up with a mediocre result then it's ok.
I just bought a second hand scotoiler off enay and never looked back.
They are a VERY good investment if you commute.
thats my opinion on them anyway!
Really sorry to continue with this derail, but I can't let that lie.
LOOBMAN
I bought one of these a few years ago.
WASTE OF MONEY!
Did not like it one bit, it made the bike look rubbish - you just have to be inventive as to where you put it as the options are almost limitless.as there wasn't anywhere I could put it that I could easily access while riding - It clearly states you're not meant to squeeze it when you're on the bike (if you do it while off the bike it just ends up a big oilly puddle on your drive!) - You are meant to do it immeadiately before pulling away. It does not pour out fast enough to leave a puddle if you leave soon after - this is like suggesting scottoiler's leave a puddle everytime you stop with the engine running :roll:
also it was a ball ache to fit, - I have fitted 3, it is not that difficult at all, certainly less daunting than tapping into your vacum line (or did you get a dealer to fit your Scottoiler?)as it's all very ....well...bodged! - That is half the idea, what do you expect for £19 delivered?
if you don't mind messing around with low grade parts to end up with a mediocre result then it's ok. - It does exactly what it sets out to achieve which is compared to trying to lube a chain on a bike on a daily basis without a centre stand or paddock stand - it is not in the same price league as a Scottoiler, yet it manages to do a comparable job.
I just bought a second hand scotoiler off enay and never looked back.
They are a VERY good investment if you commute. - a VERY good investment whatever you do
thats my opinion on them anyway!
stu,
where did you fit yours????
any pics
OK so has anyone managed to successfully fit and is happy with this alarm yet, i am thinking about getting one for my 1999 curvy just as a deterrent but having some conflicting information with nutter saying its rubbish so just wondering anyone happy with it. Thanks
timwilky
20-05-07, 10:06 AM
Yes I have fitted one very successfully.
The unit is actually mounted under my rear plastic.
There seems to be a lot of confusion of the dual purpose brown wire.
On my bike I have inserted a relay into the main power from the ignition switch. This is activated by the brown wire. You need to press the remote start button twice to activate the brown wire. and the unlock key to turn it off.
I like the sensitivity of it. Closing my garage door gives me a couple of reassuring chirps. Not enough to activate the alarm simply bleeps a couple of times.
danf1234
20-05-07, 12:00 PM
I could not stand my bike saying "Welcome to the cyclone C11 alarm system" when i turn it on.
I have the cyclone advanced alarm and I ripped the speaker out that does all the talking after 2 days. The proximity switch is genious though and works really well.
OK so has anyone managed to successfully fit and is happy with this alarm yet, i am thinking about getting one for my 1999 curvy just as a deterrent but having some conflicting information with nutter saying its rubbish so just wondering anyone happy with it. Thanks
I have, as quite a few others have on the forum. I would advise the £60 version rather than the £30 I have though.
The £30 is great as a deterrant, and has saved my bike at least once. However, that was only because I went out to see what was going on when the alarm went off. The £30 model has a couple of quirks about it, and needed a few electrical enhancements.
The £60 version has a few features (like proximity detection & a remote that works over longer distance) that would of been nice on the £30. If they'd of made the more expensive one when I bought mine, I'd of paid more just for the features.
Soulkiss has just ordered the £60 version to fit to his K6.
SoulKiss
21-05-07, 09:10 AM
I have, as quite a few others have on the forum. I would advise the £60 version rather than the £30 I have though.
The £30 is great as a deterrant, and has saved my bike at least once. However, that was only because I went out to see what was going on when the alarm went off. The £30 model has a couple of quirks about it, and needed a few electrical enhancements.
The £60 version has a few features (like proximity detection & a remote that works over longer distance) that would of been nice on the £30. If they'd of made the more expensive one when I bought mine, I'd of paid more just for the features.
Soulkiss has just ordered the £60 version to fit to his K6.
Yeah, and Paypal decided that they would use their E-Cheque nonsense, so still waiting.........
Nigel HAS been great tho - promp replies to emails etc.
David
danf1234
21-05-07, 09:10 AM
I have the £60 version on mine.
so does this £60 system have all the features plus more compared to the £90 acumen cat 3.1 alarm, the features i am most interested in which the acumen system has are:
User definable Nudge Sensor
A 'Proper' movement sensor - unusual in the budget end of alarms
Hot wire / forced ignition sensing
Fully encapsulated electronics for 100% waterproof constructionAlso how annoying is the talking honestly? thanks
so does this £60 system have all the features plus more compared to the £90 acumen cat 3.1 alarm, the features i am most interested in which the acumen system has are:
User definable Nudge Sensor - Not userdefinable, but has a sensor, more by proximity than nudge.
A 'Proper' movement sensor - unusual in the budget end of alarms - Again, done by proximity.
Hot wire / forced ignition sensing - Yup, even the £30 version does this.
Fully encapsulated electronics for 100% waterproof construction - So how does it wire into the rest of the bike? Black magic? I've never seen an alarm on a car or bike that's 100% waterproof, no matter how expensive it was.Also how annoying is the talking honestly? thanks
The talking, I could put up with. I did have plans to re-engineer the talking to something more useful, and to blank out the ignition welcome crap. But I could never be bothered with the RnD required on a system I hadn't built myself.
Now, my £30 version doesn't flash the indicators or do any of the vocals. It's just a last second "Oh crap this thing is alarmed" deterrant. Pick my bike off the side stand, or turn the ignition on without disabling the alarm, siren + horn. Nice & simple.
Pick my bike off the side stand, or turn the ignition on without disabling the alarm, siren + horn. Nice & simple.
Thanks for quick reply, this is what i want so will cyclone's £60ish alarm do this, i read in your previous posts your were thinking about fitting a tilt switch will i also need to do this or anything else extra for that matter thanks.
danf1234
21-05-07, 05:27 PM
The advanced alarm does have shock sensor as well as the proximity sensor. The alarm went off if you tap the fairing before I wired the proximity sensor in.
Re. the talking. It really did my head in. Everythime you put the key in or take it out it speaks. Gets really embarrassing at popular bike meeting places. I just disconnected the separarte talking speaker and threw it in the bin.
For £60 you can't go wrong.
Re. the talking. It really did my head in. Everythime you put the key in or take it out it speaks. Gets really embarrassing at popular bike meeting places. I just disconnected the separarte talking speaker and threw it in the bin.
Sorted that was exactly what i was worried about, parking at bike meet and have sum alarm talking to you didn't appeal to me to much. But now i can rip it out looks like i will be making a phone call to cyclone tomorrow then, so in the end where did you fit the unit ? Also this ADJUSTABLE RANGE CLOAKING SYSTEM it has if you take out the talking unit what happens with this or does it just become non existent thanks very much for the help.
danf1234
21-05-07, 07:15 PM
I fitted mine under the tail fairing behind the main seat.
The voice speaker is on a separate plug in connector. Just unplug it and take it out. Everything else work the same just without the annoying robot voice.
The cloaking you mention is just the proximity switch that works by sending out microwave signals. This isn't affect by removing the speaker.
Thanks for quick reply, this is what i want so will cyclone's £60ish alarm do this, i read in your previous posts your were thinking about fitting a tilt switch will i also need to do this or anything else extra for that matter thanks.
The £30 version I have lacks the sensitivity needed in an alarm IMO. I could pick my bike off the side stand, and pretty much drop it back on the stand, and nothing happened at all!!
So I added a tilt switch, so that when the alarm is armed, the tilt switch trips a relay which feeds 12v from the battery down the same wires as the ignition tamper circuit. The result is a full blown alarm instantly.
Note, I can't apply this to the £60 version, due to not having one :)
So I added a tilt switch, so that when the alarm is armed, the tilt switch trips a relay which feeds 12v from the battery down the same wires as the ignition tamper circuit. The result is a full blown alarm instantly.
danf1234 (http://forums.sv650.org/member.php?u=5598) this question in the main is targeted to you(or any one else that has the same alarm) do you feel the same as baph or has the sensitivity been sorted so when the bike is raised off the sidestand alarm goes of or will i need to fit a tilt switch like Baph for this, sorry for all the questions but being very short of money every decision is a major one!!! thanks for all your help so far.
danf1234
21-05-07, 08:00 PM
The advanced alarm is a totally different type of alarm. Mine goes off if you try and move it off the stand. With the proximity switch activated it goes off if you walk near it or try and sit on it.
The proximity has a adjustable sensitivity.
The advanced alarm really doesn't need a tilt switch.
thanks phone call to cyclone tomorrow then, 1 more thing (sorry about all the questions) did you manage to connect up all the features in the end any tips? I will be putting on a 99 curvy s , although may have different bike any advice great fully appreciated :thumbsup:
danf1234
21-05-07, 08:15 PM
It's all really easy to wire up, although mine is on a K6 model pointy so I assume the wiring will be different. In total it look me 2 hours.
When you order tell them what bike and what year it is and the instructions come adapted for your bike.
If you get stuck you can ring them up and speak to someone who knows exactly what they are doing.
I am no electrical wiz, I just followed the instructions.
All the best,
Dan
So is there any fool-proof method for installing one of these advanced alarms?
I'm reading and it all sounds a bit confusing!
altho it does sound like a 60 squid well spent
or are the instructions supplied plenty for a noob?
cheers dan ill be onto it tomorrow, ordering it up that is, thanks
So is there any fool-proof method for installing one of these advanced alarms?
In short, no.
As far as wiring goes, these Cyclone alarms are easy to wire in, especially when compared to a much more advanced unit.
You also get what you pay for though, and I knew this when buying. At first, mine was pretty much fully installed (except remote start). Now it's barely used.
I've thought about tweaking it to CAT3 approval (by auto-arming), but at the moment, I have more pressing things to do.
I like tinkering, so non of the above is a problem to me. If you want something that will just plug-in, work & you can forget it's there, spend a little more money initially than I did.
SoulKiss
22-05-07, 07:23 AM
In short, no.
As far as wiring goes, these Cyclone alarms are easy to wire in, especially when compared to a much more advanced unit.
You also get what you pay for though, and I knew this when buying. At first, mine was pretty much fully installed (except remote start). Now it's barely used.
I've thought about tweaking it to CAT3 approval (by auto-arming), but at the moment, I have more pressing things to do.
I like tinkering, so non of the above is a problem to me. If you want something that will just plug-in, work & you can forget it's there, spend a little more money initially than I did. So,
In short, YES!!!!
From the website - http://www.motorbikealarm.co.uk/
"If you do not feel able to fit the motorbike alarm yourself then we currently have experienced motorcycle alarm fitters covering London, North Lancashire, North Yorkshire, West Yorkshire, South Yorkshire, Cumbria, Scotland (Dunfermline) and Lincolnshire. Just call us on our low rate number or email for more info."
So, go to the site above and either email or call Nigel :)
So,
In short, YES!!!!
From the website - http://www.motorbikealarm.co.uk/
"If you do not feel able to fit the motorbike alarm yourself then we currently have experienced motorcycle alarm fitters covering London, North Lancashire, North Yorkshire, West Yorkshire, South Yorkshire, Cumbria, Scotland (Dunfermline) and Lincolnshire. Just call us on our low rate number or email for more info."
So, go to the site above and either email or call Nigel :)
And how much does that cost exactly?
Nigel is great, before the sale. I found him a little "non responsive" when I was asking questions after the sale. Although non of my questions were regarding installation, and were more ideas that I had to void the warranty on the alarm.
SoulKiss
22-05-07, 07:48 AM
And how much does that cost exactly?
Nigel is great, before the sale. I found him a little "non responsive" when I was asking questions after the sale. Although non of my questions were regarding installation, and were more ideas that I had to void the warranty on the alarm.
No idea, but IS (hopefully) fool proof :)
BTW, whats supplies will I need when fitting mine? - I am assuming soldering iron/crimp connectors, insulating tape - anything else???
For the connectors, bullets or crimps?
BTW, whats supplies will I need when fitting mine? - I am assuming soldering iron/crimp connectors, insulating tape - anything else???
For the connectors, bullets or crimps?
Erm. From my £30 version, no soldering required to fit it (unless you want to get all fancy - read make it a pain in the rear to transfer to another bike).
I think I just used snap-lock connectors (Maplin, blue connectors, put wires inside, squeeze shut with plyers, get the beefier ones as they're better, something daft like £1.39/packet). I can't remember using bullets/spades specifically for the alarm, but get some insulated spades anyhow (blue ones, fit the bosch relays perfectly).
Insulation tape will be needed. Maybe some thin wire (12v 1A stuff - personal preference, black EVERYWHERE). Maybe some masking tape so you know which wire is what (if you do what I do & use black wires everywhere - the wires on the alarm already will be colour coded - always hated that about alarms).
And how much does that cost exactly?
I asked nigel this and was told
"The fitting fee is between £80 and £100, depending on where you are and if
the fitter is coming to you ( in the areas covered )" hope this helps
ordered my alarm today!!:)
*gets back on his chair* :o
£80-100 if they're in your area. What the?!?!
You're roughly a 4 hour ride from me. Google maps says 194miles. If it arrives in time, get yourself along to the North Wales ride (ride-outs section sticky) this weekend, I'll fit it to your bike in the evening. It'll only take an hour or so. You'll get good roads, hopefully with a decent group of riders, and return journey of what? 2-3 tanks of fuel. If you want to hang about & follow us, just add money for fuel/food/accomodation.
So,
In short, YES!!!!
From the website - http://www.motorbikealarm.co.uk/
"If you do not feel able to fit the motorbike alarm yourself then we currently have experienced motorcycle alarm fitters covering London, North Lancashire, North Yorkshire, West Yorkshire, South Yorkshire, Cumbria, Scotland (Dunfermline) and Lincolnshire. Just call us on our low rate number or email for more info."
So, go to the site above and either email or call Nigel :)
was just mainly answering the question relating to the cost of this fitting, thanks for the offer though baph. Im off the road for about 2 weeks due to a knee operation so i have got nothing to loose by trying to fit it myself, however if i get stuck if you dont mind you will be my first port of call:thumbsup: thanks
was just mainly answering the question relating to the cost of this fitting, thanks for the offer though baph. Im off the road for about 2 weeks due to a knee operation so i have got nothing to loose by trying to fit it myself, however if i get stuck if you dont mind you will be my first port of call:thumbsup: thanks
No worries on the port of call thing. My memory might be a little fuzzy, but the basics are still there. Without the instructions & the bike in front of me could be fun, but will get there in the end.
I won't have a t'inter-web connection at the weekend due to the North Wales ride, but if you need any questions answered drop me a PM & I'll get back to you whenever I'm online. Should be Monday morning at the latest.
SoulKiss
22-05-07, 10:22 AM
was just mainly answering the question relating to the cost of this fitting, thanks for the offer though baph. Im off the road for about 2 weeks due to a knee operation so i have got nothing to loose by trying to fit it myself, however if i get stuck if you dont mind you will be my first port of call:thumbsup: thanks
Thats fine, you can cue Baph's fitting consultation service, however, it will be subject to him not being on the phone to me already, helping me out :)
E-cheque cleared - woohoo
David
cheers will let you know how i get on, thanks for the help... now to fix the bike's other problem's.....:-k
Thats fine, you can cue Baph's fitting consultation service, however, it will be subject to him not being on the phone to me already, helping me out :)
E-cheque cleared - woohoo
David
You don't have my number do you? :p Wait, maybe you do....
If either of you want to call me, use the Skype account. That'll forward to me wherever I am. But if I don't answer the call, it comes up as "Unknown forward" so I have no clue who called. Don't get miffed if I don't call you back :p
ok thanks for your help will be in touch shortly no doubt:)!! thanks Aaron
danf1234
22-05-07, 12:43 PM
I didn't think £80 fitting was too bad. Mind you I wired mine up myself so I didn't pay it i nthe end.
Dan
alarm almost completely fitted just wondering anyone that has the advanced alarm if they have fitted the microwave scanner thing if so any tips on where to mount it and how to get it to work right i cant think of anything? thanks
danf1234
24-05-07, 01:27 PM
See your PM.
I fitted under the seat unit just under the cross section that holds the seat unit cable.
To activate the microwave sensor you need to press the alarm activate button twice. Pressing it once leave it off.
I had the same problem until the alarm place told me that.
Read item 7 i nthe instruction manual.
sorry sent you a pm before reading this :oops:i think we are talking about the same place now. So how close to the bike or if you touch the bike where does it get activated, e.g. does touching the handlebars activate it? thanks Aaron
danf1234
24-05-07, 02:14 PM
There is a small cross head screw on the microwave sensor that adjusts sensitivity. After a bit of fiddling with it, and annoying my neighbours I have now managed to set it so it activates it any comes within 50cms of the bike. Which in my opinion is someone getting too close for comfort. It emits the warning chips first.
Imagine it like an imaginery force field.
KnightRider
24-06-07, 07:11 PM
Just fitted the Cyclone advanced alarm to my new K7 and it works really well. I havent added the immobiliser bit yet but was hoping that one of you (Baph or SoulKiss) could give me some pointers on the best way to do it when you get back from the AR07.
I would also like to know what the hell you do with the brown wire. Nigel's instructions seem to contradict each other. I currently have it hooked up to one end of the relay as per the instructions in Method B but it doesn't seem to activate the relay at all. I also have no idea where the best place is to link into the ignition.
I will post some photos of how I have hooked it up FYI. Any chance you could post a couple of photos of the immobiliser bit as you are doing it? I dont think it would be just me who would be interested in it!
Ok, just bought the advanced alarm of the net
a little confused i have to say:
for a start its called the magic alarm not cyclone advanced alarm. Then i have no idea which piece is which, sometimes a simple this is the alarm, this is the whatever it is, would help. all i got is a circuit diagram. anyone know which part is which? i have a little box with an aerial thing, then a big black box withe wires going in, a not so big box with a LED and what looks like a variable resistor screw (the microsensor thing?), a brown circular thing with holes (which looks like a good place for noise to come from), and then finally a siren horn device. Obviously the two pager fobs i can jsut about recognise what they are!
i'm not even going to bother fitting it myself, my friend knows a bloke that runs a garage near me so hopefully they'll get it done
is it possible to have the immobiliser without having the keyless start, i really can only see the start being a problem all the time
i think if memory serves me right the little black box with the aerial(little bendy wire) is used to pick up the signal from the remote key fob, the big black box is your main unit, the smaller black box with led is you microwave detecter emiter for the cloacking thing
yeah cheers mate, i thought that might be the case, seems reasonable, but a better guide would be a good idea
just hope this place will do it, as a lot dont want to touch them!
i have the instruction but hav just moved into halls at uni so dont hav them at hand at the mo soonest probably will hav them is next weekend so will be able to give u more info then if u want?
KnightRider
16-09-07, 05:21 PM
I fitted this alarm to my K7 and it was very simple to fit IMHO. All I did was to buy couple of crimp connectors, some 30 amp wire, a relay and some snap lock connectors. The two speakers went down by the battery, but I left the main speaker off (i didnt want the bike to talk to me!), the antenna went along the side under the seat, the main unit, relay and proximity sensor went in at the bottom under the seat. Let me know if you want further details.
Jon
danf1234
16-09-07, 06:11 PM
The alarm is a piece of pi%5 to fit on the SV. What exactly are you struggling with?
If you are struggling even recognising the bits in the box, ring the help line and they will send someone out to fit it. it costs like!
I'm not particularly struggling with anything, i just want someone who actually knows what they're doing to fit it, rather than me have a bash and fluff it up. I'm pretty bloody skint, but i think its money worth spending. I've done rudimentary electronic studies in the past, i know what relays, resistors and all the crap are, how they work and what they look like, how to solder and whatever, but i'll be honest in saying ive never seen a stupid alarm in parts before, and i'd rather be safe in the knowledge that it will be done correctly
sorry rant over :-D , i'm off to uni on tuesday, so another reason is time, i need it done tomorrow and i dont have one bit of time, perhaps what is causing my frustration at the alarm (along with idiot places saying i've wasted my money and that it'll cause problems)
cheers ad and jon, if the talking did start to tick me off, how would you stop it? just pull it off and smash it sounds like the route i'd want to take
First of all i need to see if this bloke will do it tomorrow, so i'll take it from there!
danf1234
17-09-07, 07:54 AM
Right from memory,
The part with the metal antenna is the sensor that picks up the key fob to arm the bike
There are two round sirens. One is the alarm noise maker and one is for the voice that states "Stand back this bike is alarmed".
There should be the main control unit (the brain) that has all the different coloured wires coming out of it.
The black bx with a red l.e.d. and the small plastic cross head screw is the microwave sensor that senses when someone is near to your bike.
When I fitted mine it took about 2 hours, and I didn't bother adding the voice siren and the keyless start, as they are a bit of a gimmick.
There are loads of wires and it looks a bit messy, but the alarm is really good and works well. It has all the features of an alarm worth 4x as much.
Also from memory they charge £90 to come out and fit it. Which is more than the actual alarm, and what made my mind up to do it myself.
Yeah i'm pleased with the alarm, cost me 70 quid to get it fitted today. Got the keyless start and voice and everything set up, the button start is abit of a gimmick, but its pretty good for novelty *look how cool i am (not)* reasons
They didnt install the immobiliser, said they hate them and that if it triggers falsely or whatever you're up diahorrea drive, but would only take 5 mins to fit if i wanted it doing
Seems pretty good so far though, the sensitivity seems right on too without me fiddling, get to the rear seat as if opening it, alarm detects. put disc lock on/ off, triggers it too. even with fitting still cheaper than a normal alarm
cheers lads
oh also for some reason i kind of like the voice, robotic style but not too loud. forgive me
vBulletin® , Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.