ignition cutsout after approx 10 mins (any ideas)

[bobsere]

sv 650 ignition cuts out after 10 minutes approx running ,both pots dead and no spluttering on lead up to this happening. i am suspecting cdi or signal generator anyone have any other ideas . thanx

[TSM]

By you saying you have a CDI then i suspect its a curvey?

Does your bike have an alarm?

[bobsere]

im a returning rider recently aquired my sv naked not sure of the term curvy or pointy yet

[bobsere]

the bike has a datatool immobiliser but the cutting out after 10 mins happens when i am riding or it is standing still on tickover (although on tickover i did have to open the throttle slightly before it actually cutout).after about 10 mins cooling down it starts again as normal

[jambo]

The "curvey" and "pointy" refer to the styling of the bike as it was re-styled for the 2003 (K3) onwards, on the faired "S" bike it's very obvious, on the nakeds it's probably best to just see 2 parke up next to each other.

So, what is the year of registration? :wink:

[bobsere]

i could'nt park up next anyone at the moment as 10 minutes out from home i'm sweating pushin it back home! its a year 2000 , first bike since returning to riding and i'm lovin it (except for this slight problem)

[bobsere]

just checking to see if anyone out there has any input on this problem

[rictus01]

I'll give this one a go,

OK you say the ignation cuts out ?

now is this all electricals ? warning lights as well ? or just the engine stops ?

when you say 10 minutes, is it always 10 minutes or is that you rounding it up ?

as you have the curvey have you checked the rear loom for rubbing (do a search).

what have you checked yourself already ?

You could also help, by adding the mileage, any mods, when last serviced, the more info you give the more likely we are to be able to help.

Cheers Mark.

[bobsere]

hi mark
just the ignition goes all lights e.t.c as norm, the bike has done 14'000 year 2000 model
approx 10 mins to cutout but no more than 20.
bike all standard.
have stripped and checked fuel **** diaphragm but am leaning towards problem not being fuel as there is no spluttering just both cylinders die and around ten minutes later i can start again
i will check loom but feel this may not be problem as the bike does the cutout thing on sidestand without even moving.
i feel something that will cut out ignition to both pots simultaneously is breaking down as it gets hot i am going to try to trace ignition components and spray with freezer spray when cut out occurs then try starting bike

[jambo]

Ok, Have you got a Haynes manual? There are several electrical tests you can run on various parts of the loom, but I would remove the rear plastics and look carefully to see that no part of the wiring has rubbed through to earth.

This not being the case, as you have the bike running does it sound perfectly normal and then just die?
Can you check that both plugs are still sparking at this point (Use a spare plug and the HT lead to the rear plug to check for spark with the tank up and nothing else needing disassembly, then test the front one in the same way). If neither one sparks it points to different components (CDI, Loom etc) where as if only 1 sparks I'd possibly suspect a coil breaking down in the heat. Let us know how you do!

[rictus01]

the rear loom problem has been known for sometime and does cause weird problems (I suffered from it myself) so will be worth a try (rubbing on the rear subframe, check the inside of it) but I can't think of anything that would be time critical apaeart from thermal build up, this will normally be either fuel evaperation or electricl failure.

I'd start by taking off the airbox and leaving all the bolts out of the tank fixing, run the bike up (not riding it) and replicate the problem, when it cuts out, lift the tank and turn the engine over trying to start it, as you have no airbox fitted you'll be able to see the petrol and know that isn't your problem.

then remove one of the plugs (mind it will be hot), the rear is probably easiest and test for spark.

this should tell you which is causing the issue.

From there either a carb strip and clean, trace out the pipework and replace (also check the fuel tap diaphram), or electrical testing of the plugs/leads/coils & coil feed signals, wire tracing back to CDI unit.

if after all that you haven't found the problem the the CDI may have a fault, before sourcing a new one, try borrowing one from someone and see if that fixes it.

Hope that helps.

Cheers Mark.

[bobsere]

thanks for all the advice guys i am now about to start fault finding i will update on outcome

[bobsere]

hi everyone update as promised-took the seat front and rear off and all back end fairings off and checked all wiring but found no damage so i started the bike and waited for the ignition to cut out but it just kept running, after about twenty minutes i decided i'd better take it for a ride so i put the seat e.t.c back on and out i went armed with a can of freezer spray after about 10 mins the ignition cut out and after spraying the cdi and any other electrical components i could see to no avail as usual pushed it back home and it still would still not start.
the troubleshooting guide in manual mentions the turn signal/side stand relay could be the cause of a no or poor spark situation so i removed the seat and gave the relay a good blast with freezer spray and tried starting the bike suddenly it gave a massive backfire and started i then took it for a ride without bolting down seat so that when it conked out i could replicate the situation to verify that the problem is the relay only thing is the bike would not cut out so i am left wondering is it going to cut out totally out of the blue or did the backfire clear some debri that was blocking fuel

[bobsere]

been out for another long ride and once again no cutting out anyone ever had this sort of thing happen . i suppose it will take a good few hours of riding for me to establish if the problem has gone away for good but it still leaves me on edge as to if it will suddenly come back any ideas as to what may have happened (check previous post see what happened)

[Biker Biggles]

You say it did'nt cut out when you left the seat bolts out?Back to chafed wiring loom,as a known fault is for the seat bolt to press on the loom when tightened up.
When my son's SV played up the loom looked ok but three wires were chafed inside and were earthing out intermittantly.Good hunting.

[bobsere]

cheers biker biggles thats another avenue to explore if it happens again

[bobsere]

well the problem went away for three days then today riding to work it conked out on me ,lifted saddle and wiggled loom in areas where bolts could press etc to no avail also i sprayed components with freezer spray in case of heat breakdown but no joy there either, after about 15 minutes just standing it started again and i carried on my way, this is the norm with this problem .when this happens i can operate starter but it just turns over and wont start if it was to do with the ignition cutout switch wiring then that should stop starter motor from turning over. if your out there biker biggles when your sons bike had wiring probs did just the ignition on both pots cutout or did you get all electrics failure (mine is just ignition ) also where on the bike did you find the fault

[jamesobrady]

This may be worth a look.....

Is your fan kicking in when the engine gets over 100deg temp?
*or whatever it is on the curvey*

Not sure how the warnings work on the pre-03 but on the digital clocks you get a flashing temp indicator(easy to miss) and then a red light.(not so easily missed)

I only know as mine overheated during some slow speed riding recently and the fan was not working.

.....10mins standing would be about how long it takes for the(my) bike to overheat.....i've had to do it a few times now for fault finding :)

...quick check....take the plug off the lower rhs of your rad, put a wire between the two contacts(with ignition on but not necessarily started)...if the fan comes on then leave your bike running(with plug connected back to overheat sw on rad....) and see if it comes on or if your bike overheats and cuts out. If it doesnt come on during the "wire" check...replace the fuse, if it still fails..your overheat switch,or fan is most likely fubar or(fan) not getting power.

[bobsere]

cheers james
i left the bike running on stand the other day to try and replicate the cutout problem and i heard the fan cut in but it would'nt cutout i then took it for a ride and hey presto it cutout

[BILLY]

Have you checked your side stand cut out switch they some times fail it might be a damaged wire or full of crap!!! If you disconect it the bike will still run so go for a ride and see what happens!!!

ps It's located behind your side stand

[Stig]

So the bike when running on idle is fine, but when taking it for a run, after a few minutes it cuts out. Leave if for a while and it runs again, but the problem reoccurs?

Have you checked that the fuel line is not kinked somewhere?

I have had this problem before. I took my bike in for it's first service. All went well and I left. After a few miles the bike stopped running. No warning, nothing electrical it just died. Tried to start it but it wouldn't. Left it for a few minutes and it started. Left it idling for a few minutes and all was well. Got back on a tried to ride further, after a couple of miles or so the bike stopped running again.

Rode back to the garage (eventually) and told them of the issue. The lifted the tank and noticed the kinked fuel line. Straightened it back out and everything was fine.

Whilst it was kinked there was enough fuel getting through to the carbs to fill the float bowls and run the engine, but putting on power it needed more fuel but due to the kink fuel was being restricted when it needed it most.

Maybe this could be your problem too.

[bobsere]

hi big ape
the last time i took it out i managed to ride it for three days before the problem reoccured ,at first i thought it may be fuel as it occured about the time it would take for a fuel bowl to empty and i recall on a car i had there was a flake of metal in the carb bowl that every now and then would block the main jet similar problem.its interesting that you say the bike just died on you though , no spluttering? i have already checked the fuel pipe when i checked the stop **** diaphram are there any filters before fuel splits to fill both carbs?

[bobsere]

I promised feedback on this issue so here it is after exhausting all avenues on my fault finding I finally gave up and booked it into west london suzuki to see if they could find the problem, next day they phoned and they had located the cause of ignition cutting out to a relay in the immobiliser card ( I would have searched forever and never found this) anyway they bridged this and everything is now running fine. I was charged £90 which i thought was fairly reasonable considering, I was expecting loom tracing e.t.c to run quite a bit higher so I am now once again a happy bunny, thanx for all those out there who gave imput to try and help