What solder to purchase

[21QUEST]

Question for the soldering gods. (Shouts out to Viney,Sid,Rictus,Embee,TimW,Ape ...)

I hate electrical stuff and have always had someone good to do any tricky bits. Failing that I just bodge way out :oops: Subsequently never had to do much soldering :lol: . I need to do some rewiring(bike) and my electrical maestro hasn't got the time so now is as good a time as any to see what all the fuss is about :P

Quick look at maplin provided two different types of solders one of which is almost twice the price of the other. Question is is it worth bothering with the expensive one or will the cheaper one suffice. Link below

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=solder&doy=25m7&source=15

Any suggestions , tips welcome


Cheers
Ben

[andyauger]

None of those are necessary. Silver solder requires higher temperatures to work. Lead free solders are generally used in plumbing. Standard electronic resin-core solder is what you want. Electronics shops and hobby shops will have the correct stuff.

[21QUEST]

Thanks Andy.

Will any of the above be okay though? Maplins is the only place I can think of at the moment which is handy for me on my travels.

Cheers
Ben

[independentphoto]

No problem with any of those. A 250gm reel of the 1mm lead-free stuff should last you a long time. "Rosin" cored solder (almost all these days) cleans the metals to help the solder take to the joint easily.

Quick tips (in this order):

1) wipe the tip of the HOT iron on a damp sponge to remove oxidised solder
2) "Tin" the tip with a small blob of solder (Aids heat transfer)
3) Offer the tip to the terminal / wire and watch for the solder "wicking" along / into metal.
4) offer the solder wire to the joint until it flows in a modest covering
5) Remove solder wire THEN.........
6) Remove soldering iron.

Do all of the above in a couple of seconds (unless heat transfer is slow). If the wires insulation starts melting, you've been in there too long. Oh yes.... and feel free to practice with some off-cuts of wire on a bench before starting.

Hope this helps.

Garry :wink:

Hope this helps.

[21QUEST]

Good Stuff...

Garry :wink:

Hope this helps.

Oooo....h , so that's what all the fuss is about :lol: .
:thumbsup:

Cheers
Ben

[tigersaw]

60/40 multicore is the easiest to use. Being phased out, health and safety, but get it if you see it.

[northwind]

Why bother, use molten flesh like I always end up doing :)

[21QUEST]

60/40 multicore is the easiest to use. Being phased out, health and safety, but get it if you see it.

Tiger , why is it easier to use and what's the H+S deal with it ?.

Cheers
Ben

[tigersaw]

60/40 multicore is the easiest to use. Being phased out, health and safety, but get it if you see it.

Tiger , why is it easier to use and what's the H+S deal with it ?.

Cheers
Ben

60% lead, 40% tin, with flux in the core.
melts at low temp, flows easily, does not erode the soldering iron tip, (much).

Think its the fumes that getting it phased out. Fortunately we have about 50 years worth stashed.

[Graham]

Resin core solder is crap, Just use solid solder with bakers flux

[$tevo]

Isn't all solder having to become lead-free thanks to the powers that be (EU) - I heard that the replacement solders have higher melting point and stand more chance of destroying the components that you're trying to fix :evil:

[swamp]

Silver loaded solder provides a stronger solder joint which is resistant to ageing. Silver provides mechanical strength but it needs a slightly hotter iron for best results since it does not flow as well.

Sometimes they add copper to the solder. This makes the solder flow better since it lowers the melting point.

Silver loader solder is always prefered over standard tin/lead but in most applications not really needed.


Lead has to be eliminated from electronic systems by July 1, 2006 I think. So there is more interest in lead free solder's but yes, the lack of lead means it has a higher melting point and higher risk of damaging the component you are soldering.

[21QUEST]

Thanks for all the replies. Appreciated.

I'm going for a bigger reel of the cheaper stuff and a smaller reel of the more expensive if/when I need to solder more sensitive bits.


Cheers
Ben


EDIT:Swamp the Maplins site says the opposite with regards to the Silver.

The high Silver content improves the conductivity of the solder & lowers the melting point, improving the flow.

Have they got it wrong?

[GDBD59]

I didn't know as much detail as some of the other guys, but silver solder is definitely more difficult to use.

It hasn't been mentioned..........what type & wattage of iron have you got?

[21QUEST]

One is 30W and the other is 100W that is operates on a 12 seconds ON and 48 seconds OFF cycle

Cheers
Ben

[Warren]

just got an off topic questoin for ya all.

anyone got a link to a site telling me how to use a multi meter ?

i bought one and i want to learn about electrics :)

[swamp]

EDIT:Swamp the Maplins site says the opposite with regards to the Silver.

The high Silver content improves the conductivity of the solder & lowers the melting point, improving the flow.

Have they got it wrong?

Yes. Does not surprise me. Silver does not lower melting point, copper does that. I regularly use silver loaded solder and need to up the temp on my Weller to 400-420 Deg C for proper flow were-as 'traditional solder' flows at 370-380.

Maplin used to be a very good store aimed at the electronic enthusiast but when Tandy went out of business they moved more into their market and started selling toys and gadgets and far less electronic parts. Just look at their kit range compared to years ago, very poor now. They also employ students part-time and much younger staff now esp compared to years ago when the staff were generally older, more knowedgeable and dedicated. Guess they need to keep increasing profits for the share holders !!

Check wikipedia ....

Different elements serve different roles in the solder alloy:

* Silver provides mechanical strength, but has worse ductility than lead. In absence of lead, it improves resistance to fatigue from thermal cycles.
* Copper lowers the melting point, improves resistance to thermal cycle fatigue, and improves wetting properties of the molten solder. It also slows down the rate of dissolution of copper from the board and part leads in the liquid solder.



BTW a 100W iron is generally too hot for normal work. These big 100W irons are ideal on very thick cable and connections like some older car electrics but not suitable for more delicate work. A 30W iron is better suited to most jobs like the bike wiring. A small portable gas iron from maplin is ok since you can alter the tip temperature. The only problem with these I found is the iron tip is not that robust and eats away quicker that a quality iron tip like a weller.