Dolomite Trails 2006

[the white rabbit]

So here the tale begins......

So the GS is an offroad bike, right? Well not really its a bike for roads of any surface. But what it does do is allow you to go quite a long way and ride trails.

That was the plan for the 2nd European AdvRider Raid to Italy. The rally was organised by Giorgio, who has a summer house in the Cadore region of the Dolomites. Sort of north east Italy. East of Cortina, north of Venice...you get the idea.

Giorgio (why we are in a tunnel explained later...)
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84538451-M.jpg

So, packed up and ready to go I departed from Dover a few weeks ago heading for Dunkirk, then hoping to make it down to Kaiserslautern in Germany that eve.

The route (sort of)
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84654563-M.jpg

There was to stay with Walrond (Wade). Walrond is a US red cross director who is attached to the US Army for active service. So he's lucky enough to holiday in Bosnia, Iraq (twice the lucky fellow) and Afghanistan. Cool..... :shock:
After a great meal with the family and a sleep courtesy of the US Rhine Army we repacked and set off bound for ITALIA!

Packing with Wade
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84532547-M.jpg

Rhine Army?
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84532635-M.jpg

So a quick ride south on autobahn took us down to Austria and then at the end of the motorway towards Italy via the Fernpass.
There we hit total gridlock. The passes are just normal roads clogged with weekend traffic. I didnt find out later its very wrong to do virtually anything on a motorcycle in Austria so my third session (once this year twice last) of crossing the white line to beat the jams fortunately went unnoticed by the police 8-[ [-o< . We got to Pieve di Cadore (basecamp) by eve and pitched up.

I must however confess to a minor incident. Just after entering Italy we were stuck in a traffic jam exciting a toll. We nudges our way forward...Donk!....:shock: I felt something a little funny. I turned to the woman in the car alongside and said 'Did I hit you?' 'No, go, go, ok' she said. I turned to the other car I was wedged alongside. 'Did I hit you?'....'No, you didnt hit me' he said. I looked back to Wade. 'Did you just ram me?' 'Errr, no....' he said. Back to the woman 'I think I hit you'. 'No, ok, go' she said, The little kid in the back looked petrified. So on we rode. When we go to the campsite Wade said 'You did hit her, you know'. Inspection of the panniers showed a lot of blue paint and a long scratch/dent. Ooooppps.......

Home
http://walrond.smugmug.com/photos/81766262-M.jpg

[the white rabbit]

So waking the following day (sunday) it was time to head up to the village to find our advrider mates. I hadn't met any of the FFs (as we call each other :wink: ) before so it was going to be firstly interesting and definitely ugly :lol:
So we rode the mile or two up to the town...or village...

Parked up outside the house of Titian (the local painter and decorator) looking for the others
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84532836-M.jpg


Oh look, here's a quaint local. I wonder if he knows where anyone from the rally might be?

Loz, UK
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84532769-M.jpg

Imagine how surprised we were to find it was a fellow FF busy putting on a set of new knobblies. He had a really natty tiny little electric compressor. Really tiny. Did the job a treat. He was staying with many of the softies in the Hotel Progresso. The name was ironic. It was unchanged since 1930 including most of the staff :shock: But it was cheap as advriders are cheap. Who's come in the three wheeled truck? :shock:

Anyway, turned out the early arrivals were all here so we kitted up and headed off for the first days riding. To be honest not at one time on this trip didi I have a clue where I was, where I was going, or what day it was. The others had GPS and all kinds of ****. Most days I forgot my hugely inadequately scaled map. Anyway, they lead, I follow 8) , its a holiday after all :lol:

A few of us ready for the off (literally)
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84532901-M.jpg

Giorgio went everywhere with his son (in green) on the back of his Super Tenere. Probably the only one of us with a decent tool for the job (excepting a 650 Strom and a Dominator).

Giorgio and son, purveyors of fine riding
http://walrond.smugmug.com/photos/81766455-M.jpg

One thing was learned quickly about Giorgio. Two miles meant four. Ten minutes twenty. A little tricky meant very tricky indeed... :shock:

[Richie]

Looking forward to the next instalment of this trip Rich...
Great photos m8, personally I'm looking forward to the full size avatar one...

[the white rabbit]

Looking forward to the next instalment of this trip Rich...
Great photos m8, personally I'm looking forward to the full size avatar one...

Many of the photos arnt good due to another 'incident'. Some are borrowed from Wade (Walrond), Michael (MIG), Steve and Ella, and SpanishBob so credits to them at this point.

Pedants note, Ill correct the typos later its hard work this :lol:

[the white rabbit]

Where were we...

....ah yes.

It was difficult to make good time as TBH the roads were quite twisty. But at least this bit was tarmac. Looks like were off for a ride in someones terraced garden :shock:

A little twisty
http://jeep.cfasp.de/upload/145953.jpg

http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84532959-M.jpg

But the view was worth the pain. And look how small Loz makes the 1150Adevnture look..

Grizzly blokes and a pretty girl
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84533200-M.jpg

The FF on the left is Ilmostro (Dave) all the way from Georgia, USA with his hired yellow 1200. More about that later... :wink:

Ilmostro and Loz
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84533077-M.jpg

So on we rode, leaving the tarmac for the trails. Everywhere was a little or a lot steep and twisty. Mainly single track tarmac switch backs followed by sections of gravel and rock when you got higher in the mountains.
It started to rain a little (the weather the whole trip was generally excellent) which made some things tricky. My goal for the day was to NOT be the first to come off. My dream was realised when CarbonCat, HP2 rider from California via Moldova on borrowed R1100GS binned it just before the crest on the next pic. He'll never read this so lets have a little :drink: and a :lol: . No pics of that...we were all shy at that point :oops: :lol:

Slippery when wet
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84533430-M.jpg

We got up, now its down
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84533363-M.jpg

More tomorrow.....:drink:

[K]

See, I knew there was a reason I was glad to have you back on the Org. :wink:

Looking forward to the next installment, and it's given me an idea...

... just off to 'Forum Suggestions', be back in a min. :twisted:

[valleyboy]

Well Rich, Ive just seen a bit of road in those pics the MoFo's would probably like to go up and down.. several times... with sick bags... :lol:

[the white rabbit]

SV'ers may be interested that it was almost exactly 1000 miles from Bristol to Pieve di Cadore (the way I went anyway :lol: ). So I did two 500 miles days almost.

I was beat after them.

How I ever did the 660 in one day on the SV back from France including heavy rain most of the way I dont know (Eurotour 2004?). Perhaps and RT or a Pan is more comfy. Perhaps I'm less fit. Anyway.....

K, thanks :D

VB, I actually felt dizzy at times on this trip :lol:

[Razor]

Great pics :)
What does FF stand for?

[valleyboy]

Great pics :)
What does FF stand for?

Rich has told me... and sadly, this is 'U-rated' rite now... :lol:

[the white rabbit]

So, whats the point of riding up those trails, you ask.

FOOD of course :lol: Its now worth pointing out that the riding was purely secondary to the eating. Most of these trails lead to or by mountain refuges. I'd eaten at a few of these when I used to ski, but never thought I'd be stupid enough to go there by motorcycle.

Yumm!
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84534352-M.jpg

http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84534449-M.jpg


But before we move on, the on hire 1200GS had a little incident on the way down the damp track. Coming downhill it was somewhat prudent to switch of the ABS. Only trouble was the gravel was interspersed with sections of concrete over drainage runs...just where ABS would come in nice and handy :shock: . Unfortunately Ilmostro decided he needed some brake for some reason or other on the concrete and grabbed a little much front.

What's the black mark on the head? Oh ITS A HOLE!
http://giorgioxt.smugmug.com/photos/81589997-M.jpg
(pic courtesy Giorgio)

So after lunch a bit of roadside repair. Gaffer tape did the trick and it was good for a 50km ride home. Used a little oil tho :lol: Next day the guys ran down to the nearest dealer for a new head, so all was well in the end and Ilmostro's deductable was saved. He's still touring and going to repleace all the other scuffed bits on his last Germany leg before returning the bike to Milan :lol:

Will they notice, you think?
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84539698-M.jpg

So after a big lunch, a cow licking the inside of Walronds lid, and a ride home it was time for a quiet and somewhat dull evening in the village square of Pieve.

Its a bit quiet round here, what will we do with ourselves?
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84534604-M.jpg
http://walrond.smugmug.com/photos/81766707-M.jpg
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84534892-M.jpg
http://ilmostro.smugmug.com/photos/81427746-M.jpg
(Shamelessly stolen from Ilmostro)

I can honestly say I have never before had so much fun riding around at high speed not knowing where the hell I was in the back of some unknown blokes V8 Dodge Ram (strange....) for a couple of hours visiting various bars in towns miles from where I thought I might be staying. With a probably inebriated driver....with police lights in truck cab. Probably because I had never done that before.

Oh well. I was on holiday.

[the white rabbit]

So after that the days just seemed to run into one another. Lots of great roads, beautiful scenery, lovely food and lots of trails

Tracks up the hills
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84535567-L.jpg

Stop for more food
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84535780-M.jpg

Simply beautiful places to ride
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84535882-M.jpg
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84536363-M.jpg

And great company
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84536818-M.jpg

We rode up to that last place in the early evening, a mixture of single track tarmac switchbacks and gravel towards the top. 'Where are we eating this eve, Giorgio?' 'Oh, a mountain hut about 6km tarmac and 5km gravel....not far'. No, not far but coming back....gravel...dark... :shock: Another first :lol:

But it was a laugh (if this had sound it would be lethal)
Donkey (http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84707974-O.mpg)

[the white rabbit]

Base camp was the Hotel Progresso, Pieve. Each morning we pretty much took over the place. People came and went on the trip and not everyone road each day or at least to the same places but our biggest number was 22. Quite a turnout.

(you know if your bored by now you don't HAVE to read this :lol: )

Forming up
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84537304-M.jpg

Ilmostro explains to Anna the design concept behind the R1200S exhaust
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84537460-M.jpg

The pedestrain crossing became the workshop and the route planning centre

Steve fixing Jurgen's starter
http://spanishbob.smugmug.com/photos/81825381-M.jpg

A couple of things must be missing
http://spanishbob.smugmug.com/photos/81832218-M.jpg

MIG (Michael) shows Vincent, a round the world rider (3 years) the way to the post office
http://spanishbob.smugmug.com/photos/81846030-M.jpg

And then a departure for more of the same :lol:
This was probably the most tricky trail for me. Quite wide but loose deep gravel and stones the size of your fist with switching bends.

Necron99 (Jorgen) makes it look easy on the F650Dakar
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84537615-M.jpg

I make it look painful on the R1200GS :lol:
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84532608-M.jpg

I just picked it up before someone got there with a camera. My excuse is the bit of concrete with the loose gravel on top. The reality...I just cocked it up :lol: I subsequently found out that the camera pouch I had mounted on the bars had swivelled around when I dropped it squashing it between bar and tank and breaking the screen. Thus the dodgy pic quality from now on. I'll admit I got Steve to ride out out of here for me (and down after I dropped it again on the way down). But better to try, eh? :wink: This was one place were real knobblies would have helped, the on/off Scorpions I was running didn't bite good on this type of track.

After I fell, Giorgio came over and said 'Ok, I will go back down and tell the others to take time as its a little tricky'. Giorgio...thanks :lol:

But I did collect some forestry if you look closely

Twit with twig
http://giorgioxt.smugmug.com/photos/81591818-M.jpg

[the white rabbit]

Great pics :)
What does FF stand for?

Rich has told me... and sadly, this is 'U-rated' rite now... :lol:

And the raised finger signifies we are the 'number one riders'

8-[

[the white rabbit]

'Someone's' been cracking the :smt079 for me to 'Get on with it!'...:wink:

So now for something completely different. We rode out west past the (s)wanky resort of Cortina D'Ampezzo dodging fur coat clad pedestrians and Ferraris and went over to the Passo (possibly made up that word) Falzarano. Some great tarmac passes lead from there but also there's a cable car leading up to the mountain about 2750m or so. Here there's a network of tunnels and fortifications high in the mountains designed to protect the Italians from the Austro-Hungarians. Personally I'd worry more about the Italians :? Can you imagine what it would have been like being billetted there in the depths of winter :shock:

On the way up
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84537976-M.jpg

At the top
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84538032-M.jpg

Giorgio in the tunnels
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84538451-M.jpg

And the fortifications, clement in summer
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84538351-M.jpg

The view of the defenders
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84538520-M.jpg

Oh look an unnecessarily twisty road
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84538632-M.jpg

Giorgio: 'A little steep in places'
http://jeep.cfasp.de/upload/145924.jpg

A long way to walk down in bike kit
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84538078-M.jpg

See this story is not all just about riding bikes and eating...oh sorry, it is..

Yummy
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84539075-M.jpg

[the white rabbit]

So after some tourism it was back to the punishment. Actually not too bad the next day (or so, can't remember) with some easy trails. Loz shown on the pic below behind me is a first class rider and handles that big GS Adventure like its a dirt bike. Amazing. So I enjoyed riding with him as its the only way to improve. Downside is he was a hard taskmaster and you didnt get much of a chance for a sit down.

Me and Loz
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84532403-M.jpg
(this pic by Michael (MiG))

Some lovely views on route
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84539526-M.jpg

Girl's bike :wink:
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84539674-M.jpg

End of the trail, an old fort
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84539879-M.jpg

The very end was very loose stones. Some road up, some walked, and someone fell asleep and didnt go at all :oops: :lol:

Tricky
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84539925-M.jpg

[Anonymous]

What fantastic photos! What great roads and scenery!

[the white rabbit]

So the week went on.

As others had joined us and were keen to sample the lunch we had had on the first day it was decided to rerun that route and put a few extra tricky sections in. Fearing for what Loz meant when he said he was thinking about trying something tricky and guessing he didnt mean the Telegraph crossword I decided to do less of this...

Sort of tricky
http://giorgioxt.smugmug.com/photos/81589795-M.jpg

...and instead some of this. Venice was only an hour and a half ride away by motorway. It was very hot and the second time Ive been but I love Venice. Mr and Mrs Kropotkin came down and loved it too. Mr and Mrs Necron-99 were less keen.

Venice
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84540511-M.jpg

By now we had to got to thursday and many decided to leave on the friday. So after a last supper it was time to think about moving on. My plan was to ride to Vasteras in Sweden to go to a freind's wedding the following weekend. So I had a week to get there.

I wasnt going to go this route, but gives and idea
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84654579-M.jpg

Now for some philosophy :wink: ....
I enjoy riding solo some times but it can get to you and I wasnt sure how I would feel after the huge amount of fun and company of the week in Italy. Last year I did an entirely solo trip and , ok you do meet and talk with loads of people, but it can get lonely on the road. In a strange way, a bit like a version of the old 'cabin fever'. So I packed up and decided to head up and into Austria. Something was preying on my mind....

What if blue car lady had got home taken a look at car, thrown a fit when she saw what HAD happenned and informed the carabinieri. Her word against mine that I stopped etc. Ok, rather paranoid but these thoughts come to you on long solo trips. Like in the night, when minor troubles seem like impassable obstacles. It was a sunday and the carabinieri were out in force. So what was the best course of action? Well head for Austria sticking rigidly to the speed limits and rules :lol:

So it was with a sense of relief, albeit founded on just paranoia, that I crossed into Italy and headed for Berchtesgarten, a tongue of land that dips into Austria near Slazburg. I had been there last year and so knew there were large campsites with facilites where I could hole up and wash and dry my kit in an eve and generally take stock of things. What with dirt and heat I was at this point somewhat minging :shock: :?

Peaceful camping
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84533972-M.jpg

The beer wasnt THAT bad
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84661517-M.jpg

So what was needed? Other than the laundry all was well. The bike was running fine except I had overfilled it with oil, which is a bad thing in GS voodoo and that was worrying me juts a little. It was refusing to use oil suddenly as well which would have rectfied this :roll: There was little damage from Italy except the expected scrapes, dings and chips on the heads from the trails. The gear lever was a little bent but I had got used to it and it was shifting ok (or as well as a GS ever shifts). All I would need is a rear tyre, probably somewhere near Rostock or Stockholm. Even that was looking better than expected.
So what was to be the plan? Well, I fancied arriving in Sweden early and do some tourism and give my backside a well earned break, and then have time to book in for a tyre etc somewhere. So I decided to make a run for Dresden in north east Germany routing via the Czech republic with the option of stopping there if I fancied it. I also didnt want to run all the way on motorways.

No pics of this stage I'm afraid as the camera was somewhat broken and there wasnt much to see of note. Once away from the alps the trip became quite boring. High plains, windy, and covered with cornfields. Some drops into valleys and then back onto plains. Through a forest, the first passport check entering ther Czech republic, queues for cheaper fuel, roadside tat stalls and lots of 'nightclubs' in the middle of nowhere. Pretty scenery but quite depressing. Same through the Czech republic and the road just seemed to run on and on with little sign of Dresden getting closer. Then onto the border with Germany, more depressing small towns and a queue at the border leaving the Czech republic and back into Germany. These border towns really are horrid. If you've been you will know what I mean. Its surprising.

Anyway, it was a sunny evening and I pressed on for Dresden.

Dresden
http://www.dresden.de/bilder/collagen/516_collage_reiseziel.jpg

I passed a load of B&Bs and a campsite on the way in and didnt stop. I fancied a night out in a big city :D Mistake. By sheer bad luck there was a festival on and the town was rammed. So I stuck a pin in the map and headed out of town. This had cost me nearly two hours and the most tiring two hours as well. It was also baking hot and I dont think the washing had gone to well. On the way out I saw a small hotel. $55 euro for a room. Loads but I didnt care. It was lovely, had a shower for cleaning the kit (again) and the two ladies who ran it kept bringing me steins of beer :D . Anway, I had a look around Dresden on route and it wasnt as destroyed as I had thought.

Hotel zur Post, Dresden complete with Trabant
http://www.zur-post-dresden.de/Hotel0.gif

[the white rabbit]

The final leg...

After a decent lay in I repacked the bike (one tedious aspect, my advice...stay a few nights if possible in each place) and headed onward north out of Dresden aiming initially for Rostock, then planning on taking the ferry at Puttgarten into Denmark and the making for the bridge. But the goal was Rostock on the Baltic. This was sunday and I didnt know what had happened back home at this time only yesterday. It was sunny and I rode north alongside a river. Up to Dresden I had noticed my speedo was playing up a bit, only moving in smooth jerks but it was reading ok. I pulled into a filling station for some more 'benzin' or 'bleifrei' (philosophical note #wotsit....you get truely sick of filling with fuel on trips like this, especially as you never want to run to the limit as sundays can be funny in europe....). Just as I was about to fill, my propped up tank bag dropped down on the filler cap and snapped it off. 'Damn!' And it wouldnt seal. Fortunately I had plenty of 'stuff' with me and was able to gaffer tape the cap down. So either a temporary cap or a stop at a dealer would be needed tomorrow (Germany is shut on a sunday...totally). And I could get the speedo checked out.

So I rode on for about 30 mins and decided to pull in in a small layby in the middle of nowhere. Why? I was TOTALLY exhausted. I had been on the road for days, and in Italy up too late for hard riding, not sleeping well and generally riding hung over and dehydrated. It was also so hot. I realised that it was time to turn the bike for home. Carrying on was asking too much. I had miles to go and then a long way back home after Sweden.

So, I turned west. The plan as much as I had one was to pick up the autobahn and head straight across Germany aiming for the Belgium border.

The plan
http://richhelyer.smugmug.com/photos/84674776-M.jpg

Unfortunately I had no GPS which would have had an application here. So I went the wrong way. But having made the big decision I was happier. But luckily the wrong way led me to the Harz region. Beautiful hills and woods with pretty villages and HUNDREDS of bikes :D

Harz region
http://www.wandertipp.de/Regionen/TIP-LON.JPG

Harz- any old pic
http://www.wobau-bad-gandersheim.de/Bilder/Harz-Bodetal.jpg

Its a little far to go I guess but for sportsbike riders it must be paradise and the roads were exceptionally smooth and sweeping. I should have stayed there a day with hindsight. But after going wrong I spotted a sign for the autobahn, Gottingen and then later Dortmund and Essen and pressed on. After a too long and too hot day with thankfully light traffic I entered a little bit of Holland and found a nice small campsite. It was pretty, but the local village frites girl gave me a cold. I can't tell this for sure, but she was the only ill person I met on the whole trip :lol:

The following morning was a shortish run to Dunkirk to try and get on an early ferry. I stopped a little short and filled with fuel. Right up....Damn! I meant to only put a bit in what with the gaffered on fuel cap and going on the boat. So at the ferry terminal I gaffered the entire top of the fuel tank to stop the smell and decided if I left my tankbag on they would never know I had an ill contained few gallons of fuel on board just waiting to spill out WHEN the bike toppled (wonderful thing paranoia :lol: ).

So after boarding I was sat in the bar on the ferry having a beer as you do when your on a bike :wink: and thinking thank god its a smooth crossing and not looking forward to the drag home from Dover in the heat.

And that's when I heard about Dan (Haxsaw). And I was so glad I was on my way home.

Thanks for reading.
Rich

PS-the best plan is a loose plan, and don't be afraid to say 'enough'. Sometimes its the right thing to do.

[Richie]

Dr Rich I envy you and your holiday M8,
but I can say the Harz Mountains range.... I know what you mean, as I used to live 100Km away from there ( Just north of Hannover).... Fantastic roads and nice in the Spring the the Snow on the Mountain tops.

Arrr, hopefully get posted back out to Germany next... ( Don't tell the wife I said That :wink: )

[K]

Now that was worth getting done wasn't it. :wink:

A holiday isn't a holiday if it involves to much effort - I think I would have headed back straight after Italy. I'd have been shattered. :oops:

A great read, worth waiting for in my opinion. :thumbsup:

[the white rabbit]

Now that was worth getting done wasn't it. :wink:


Yes... 8-[

[Quiff Wichard]

hya Rich nice to have you back..

crikey I am so jealous.. feel like I havent lived !!!

that is ace.. but I wouldn't/dont have the riding ability to do it - or the money-

wierd to think that bike nd tent were next to me in a "normal" field in yorkshire not long ago an I though THAT was an adventure- !!

well done you-... looks brilliant and I have enjoyed every minute of reading it and the pics..

if only everyone who reads it says hi or thanks.. you will know that we al appreciate it..

[Quiff Wichard]

ooo and u look bladdered on that pic!!!! by the way

[Tara]

Superb Rich :D 8)

[simple simon]

Not sure if there is an award for the best post written but I'd hand it to you now.

Stunnings pics and sounds like a great adventure. Reminds me of the travels I did in my youth which, sadly, more mundane 'grown-up' stuff prevents me from doing now.

Hats off to you! :smt038

[the white rabbit]

wierd to think that bike nd tent were next to me in a "normal" field in yorkshire not long ago an I though THAT was an adventure- !!

There is no definition of an adventure. A ride down the shops can be one. Wildbill was planning on Africa. I for one couldnt do that.

If the north south FELT like an adventure, then it WAS an adventure.

Sorry, random philosophy :lol:

[Iansv]

Superb Rich, really enjoyed reading that and the pics help brng it too life..

much more adventurous than me, I hope to change that in years to come tho, glad you came thru unscathed

[Quiff Wichard]

Rich-

wot about language barrier-

or are you multi lingual or did the "foreigners" shame us again by all talking english?

[the white rabbit]

Rich-

wot about language barrier-

or are you multi lingual or did the "foreigners" shame us again by all talking english?

I can order a beer in 12 languages :lol:

No virtually nothing nearly everyone (europe) speaks english, wants to speak english even if you try, or if doesnt hotel, gas, beer, camping etc are pretty universal :lol: . Bit of french or spanish doesnt hurt maybe other places. 'Bier & cerveza' there you go.... :lol:
Sometimes you cant read road signs. No real bother :lol:

Think of how many words you actually use when you go to the shops etc. Very few.

Bah, missed the 'cunning linguist' joke

[RingDing]

Great write up. Trip sounds fantastic!

Would you be tempted to have more knobblie tyres next time? Sacrifice some grip on the road for grip on the trail?

[Demonz]

Always a great read and inspiration Dr Rich - I cant wait to loose my alpine roads virginity - 1 month to go!

[the white rabbit]

Great write up. Trip sounds fantastic!

Would you be tempted to have more knobblie tyres next time? Sacrifice some grip on the road for grip on the trail?

With hindsight yes especially as it was totally dry on the roads mainly. The best option money no object is to swap out there and then change back. Dual-sporty tyres were ok but they certainly wont good. When Steve had to ride mine out of a hole he said the grip difference between my Scorpions and the TKCs was quite remarkable in the stone sized gravel.

Then again I underestimated the amount of track vs tarmac and as we were coping then Giorgio was adding more gravel into the equation etc etc....

Having said that an experienced rider would have overcome this limitation. It was all doable on road bias tyres.

I dont fanct knobblies on in general tho.

[rwoodcock01]

Excellent pictures, and looks like a great trip!

Makes me wish I get get the time off to do something similar.


Cheers

Rich

[RingDing]

Then again I underestimated the amount of track vs tarmac and as we were coping then Giorgio was adding more gravel into the equation etc etc....

Having said that an experienced rider would have overcome this limitation. It was all doable on road bias tyres.

I dont fanct knobblies on in general tho.

I've only ridden on proper knobblies once, fitted on a KMX200 at a track day at Cawell Park. On the ride up there, from Southampton, and at the track they were OK (until I fell off! Bit over enthusiastic at the hairpin). I could feel them 'walking' on the knobbles though, especially through quick corners. I would think it would be a lot more unnerving on something as large as the Beemer.

Looks like fun though, you must be strong to be able to pick it up after your offs!

[Amanda M]

Fantastic write up Dr Rich 8) 8) 8)

[the white rabbit]

Looks like fun though, you must be strong to be able to pick it up after your offs!

:lol: no its not too hard. But I wouldnt ride trails alone just in case I hurt myself as then Id never manage.

Lots of folks do ride GS with knobblies on the road but I reckon *between you and me with no one listening* its for a bit of a pose a lot of the time :lol: Yes Ive ridden a CRM with knobbles and still remember a bad scare in the wet so what with the way I ride :oops: I'm not too keen and unsure I'll get much mileage out of them.

[amarko5]

Rich excellent review of your travels (as allways)

i really enjoy reading them, and looking through the pictures. keep up the good work in recounting your adventures :thumbsup:

[the white rabbit]

Few more half-inched from LOZ..

See this trail. I didnt.... those fist sized rocks and larger are a nightmare. But see the bike on the left (the not fallen over one)..

http://possu.smugmug.com/photos/86293338-M.jpg

Was this guy, Eduardo. On this bike. He rode everything everyone else did on that classic-ish road going machine, belonging to his Dad :shock: . Just goes to show its not the ride, its the rider.

http://possu.smugmug.com/photos/86293314-M.jpg

And Vincent. Rode round the world, took 3 years. Didnt seem to mind dropping the 12 too much, although an interesting reaction :lol:

http://possu.smugmug.com/photos/86293345-M.jpg

[Warthog]

Great stroy and pictures Dr Rich! I have also been to the Harz mountains, due to my Dad's fascination with steam engines. They have a railway there all the way to the top of the Brocken (highest mountain there). It really is a beautiful place, might have to ride back there some day.