Converting 02 SV650 to track bike

[MasterShake]

Probably a common question, but I can't find an answer to this:

I've got a naked SV650. I want to retain the headlight and front turn signals with clipons, as this bike will also be driven on the public streets, but the brackets that attaches to the fork the turn signals and headlight mount to leaves no room for the clipons. Does anyone know of a modified bracket that can hold the turn signals and headlight while still allowing me to put clipons on? I have Vortex clipons if it matters.

Thanks!

[andyaikido]

Go on the How To's section on the main site. The instructions are for a full track conversion but I suppose you could pick the bits you need.

[MasterShake]

Thanks, but unfortunately, the only link I could find is to an SV650 "R", and those links are dead. Any other suggestions or is there a how-to I missed?

[JuicyGuzzi]

I put Woodcraft clip-ons in a couple of years ago. Not too hard. As I remember, had to switch the headlight brackets left-for-right and invert them, bend the headlight aim-adjust bracket a little (maybe changed the adjust screw - don't recall) readjust headlight and that was it. Your signals will be lower and skewed just a little bit.

[Robw#70]

Just buy some cheap universal headlamp brackets that clamp around the forks

[MasterShake]

Ah hah! Done...Finis! The conversion is complete, and it’s all done with no part modifications (except for the hidden mod to the turn signals) or aftermarket parts (except for the clipons themselves). Now I have a street legal bike that’s easily-convertable to a track bike with just the removal of mirrors and some duct tape over the headlight and turn signals. Put them back on and I'm street legal! And the nice thing is if I want to go back to 100% stock, I can. Thanks to guzzi for the initial idea of swapping the fork clamps.

For those interested, here's how I did it. It's pretty simple, actually, if you read through this:


1. Remove the mirrors, handlebar controls, left grip (contact cleaner sprayed inside the grip works great), and throttle grip assembly from the handlebar.
2. Remove the handlebar top clamps and remove the handlebar.
3. Remove the bolt underneath the lower handlebar clamps and remove the lower handlebar clamps.
4. Remove the two top triple clamp fork bolts, and the top triple clamp nut.
5. Remove the top triple clamp (rubber hammer works best to coax it out).
6. Remove the two screws holding the headlight lamp to the headlight base and detach and remove the headlight lamp.
7. Unhook the wire for each turn signal inside the headlight base and pull out the turn signal wires from the headlight base.
8. Remove the turn signals from their bracket by removing the nut at the end of the turn signal.
9. Remove the four bolts that hold the headlight clamps to the fork bracket.
10. Remove the two bolts underneath the headlight base for the headlight aiming adjustment.
11. Slide each fork bracket off of the bike and put them on the opposite fork. This will bring the connection points of the bracket towards the bottom of the fork. We need them down so there's adequate clearance for the clipons.
12. Mount the small clamp for the clipons (Vortex clipons are too thick - the Woodcraft ones are just thick enough) between the fork bracket and the fork. You will need to pry the fork bracket out a bit as you slide the clipon clamp between the fork bracket and the fork, but it will fit. Spraying some contact cleaner on the rubber for the bracket helps it slide down the fork easier.
13. The tricky part of this modification is the mounting of the turn signals. If you do not modify the turn signals, they’ll be pointing upwards (as if you’re going ‘coon hunting!). Since the end of the turn signal bracket is shaped with a fixed male connector that fits into the fork bracket and can’t be rotated, you have to modify the rubber part of the turn signal.
14. First, remove the turn signal amber lens and set aside.
15. Remove the two screws that hold the rubber shaft to the turn signal plastic housing.
16. Slide out the rubber boot. You will notice that there are two long plastic tabs protruding from the turn signal case that slide into the rubber boot’s grooves. You will need to snip away a new set of grooves approximately at a 45 degree angle. I just eyeballed it, and it’s easy enough to know where to cut the grooves because at 90 degrees from the existing grooves is a line from the mold when the part was made. Simply go halfway between the existing groove and the molding line and you’re fine. I used a pair of wire cutters to cut the groove. It’s hidden so it doesn’t need to look all that pretty. Take your time and do this step right so the turn signals point forward and not skyward.
17. Once the groove is cut, reassemble the turn signal assembly.
18. Put the turn signals back on the bracket and they should point forward. Tighten each turn signal to the fork bracket with its single nut.
19. Remove the headlight brackets from the headlight base and swap the brackets for each side; reattach to the headlight base.
20. You have to remove the plastic parts from the speedo and tach because with the higher headlight, it won’t clear the plastic. First, remove the speedometer/tach assembly and remove the large black plastic piece. Then remove the chrome speedometer cover.
21. Reattach the speedometer/tach assembly.
22. Mount the other half of the clipon base to the clipon half already sitting between the fork and the fork bracket. Snugly screw the four screws in for the clipons and slide the bar clipons into their clamps. This is where you get a feel for what is comfortable as far as height (not much choice) and bend. Once you like where they are, tighten the clamps for the clipon. Don’t worry about tightening the bolt for the clipon bars yet, as it’ll be easier to mount everything if we can remove them as needed.
23. Reroute the wires underneath the speedometer/tach assembly into the headlight base. It will be a tight fit between the headlight base as it butts up against the speedometer/tach assembly. I snipped the small white zip tie that holds one of the wire strands to the speedometer/tach assembly so it would clear the headlight.
24. Route the turn signal wires back into the headlight base and reconnect them.
25. Mount the headlight base brackets to the fork bracket. This is a tough fit, so take your time here. I Dremelled across the back of the headlight base (between the two openings) so it would fit better against the speedometer/tach assembly.
26. Loosen the front master cylinder banjo bolt and rotate the hose upwards; tighten. This is needed for clearance since the hose is so close to the headlight bracket.
27. With the clipon bar removed, remount the master cylinder to the bar loosely.
28. Slide on the throttle grip assembly, then slide the clipon bar into its clamp.
29. On the left clipon bar, slide the bar into its clamp and tighten. Slide the grip onto the bar (again, contact cleaner makes this easy. The grip will tighten as the contact cleaner dries.)
30. Loosen the bolt and remove the bar. Slide the clutch bracket onto the clipon and reinstall the clipon. The clutch cable works great and is not kinked if routed between the headlight and the headlight bracket.
31. Now mount each control assembly to the clipons. You will need a ¼” drill to drill into the clipon for the small plastic protruding pin on each of the assemblies.
32. Once you have everything in place, tighten everything and put the headlight lamp back on.


Here are some pics of the final result. Any questions, please let me know! :D

http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0297_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/ngaph) http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0298_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/njw4d) http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0299_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/mnq8c) http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0300_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/l8ffw) http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0301_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/pmbt4) http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0302_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/lnyug) http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0303_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/mj7qh) http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0304_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/q3val) http://www.wmsoftwarecorp.com/private/sv650/DCP_0305_th.JPG (http://tinyurl.com/ksuol)

[JuicyGuzzi]

Yupp... that's the one.

Now with your weight on the front end the bike seems to find it's own lines. All you gotta do is look, and your there.

Be careful on those decreasing radius with high brush. Hard to see though with your head down.

Have fun!

[Tim in Belgium]

Looks good, those clip ons really change the look of the naked and give it a bit more attitude.

[Red ones]

Looks like you should be terrorising the streets of New England!

[MasterShake]

Boy has this bike's drivability changed for the better with the clipons!