Crash bung fitting.

[Mark_h]

Managed to get hold of a set of MOKO crash protectors. they are more or less the same as the R&G ones with the bolt going right through the engine.

Couple of problems.
1) Didn't get fitting instructions with them.
2) Can't get the original bolt out of the bike.

So has any one recently fitted a set of R&G or Moko protectors and able to remember what you do about washers and the funny castellated nut thing.

And I have read the Haynes manual about taking the engine out (2.5.21) and they talk about just undoing the nut on the LHS of the engine, then undoing the castellated thingy, then just pulling the bolt out of the engine. I've had a 2 foot lever on the nut and it's not shifting. Do I just need to push a bit harder or am I missing something? (left hand thread, need to undo something else first etc)

Then assuming I managed to get the nut undone I'm then faced with the castellated castellated thing. Does that actually need to come out if I'm just replacing the bolt with a longer one and the bungs one or does it hold something in place?

Do you actually need the special tool or modified socket or is a gentle tap with a screw driver likely to do the job.

The bit I'm trying to remove is called the "lower middle mounting bolt nut" and it's a 2001 naked curvy.


Thanks in advance,
Mark

[Well Oiled]

Ths is deja vu. I got some Moko crash protectors and asked the same question. Ignore the castellated nut completely and just undo the plain nut. You will see that the bolt comes out and the castellated bit is left in place. The plain nut is, however, extremely tight (not surprising as it holds the engine in place). I use a long wheel spanner with (IIRC) a 17mm socket, which just happened to fit the nut. After a bit of heave and grunt it cracked off and it was plain sailing from there on.

HTH Keith

[Well Oiled]

Here's some pics that may help:

Here's the through bolt without the nut:

http://upload4.postimage.org/1504927/IMAG0812.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/1504927/photo_hosting.html)

Here with the through bolt removed and the castellated adjuster in place:

http://upload4.postimage.org/1504939/IMAG0807.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/1504939/photo_hosting.html)

and with the bungs fitted:

http://upload4.postimage.org/1504943/IMAG0816.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/1504943/photo_hosting.html)

Cheers Keith

[Mark_h]

Well a decent 17mm socket, a long bar and much leaning and grunting has still not released the nut and the corners are starting to split so I guess I will have to fore go the pleasure of frame protectors.

Guess an unused set of decent quality frame protectors are about to appear in the for sale section. shame as they look really nice. :(

[Well Oiled]

Shame as they could save a lot of damage (and £££) if you have an off. Could your local garage not crack the nut off for a nominal charge? (or maybe for free if you use them fairly often?).

BTW if you're using a 12 sided socket try using a six sided if available as it'll give better grip / less rounding of nut corners.

HTH Keith

[Mark_h]

SUCCESS. Got a six sided 17mm socket + 2foot bar, a good overnight soaking in WD40 and significant grunt then it came undone. Looks like it was some sort of locknut but with a metal rather than the usual nylon locking mechanism. Anyway it's off now. then I got my next problem.

The flange on the slightly mangled removed nut is too big to go inside the Moko bung.

An EU spec M10x1.25 nut fits the thread, but unlike the 17mm Japanese nut the EU ones are 19mm. And a 19mm socket does not fit inside the bung. By this time I was definately ready to give up and admit defeat.

Was seriously considering grinding the flange (now there's a great phrase) off the original nut and hoping there was enough of it left to torque it up.

Then a visit to a friendly Suzuki dealer (Infinity Farnborough) and a donation to their tea fund and they managed to source me a 17mm M10x1.25 flanged nut that fits. It's not a locking nut, but I used some thread lock so that should not be a problem.

Things started looking up until I started to tighten it down. The left hand side Ali billet started to touch the frame. Undid it and found the castelated nut had started bedding itself into the Ali. One serious washer later, got it all torqued up and am now happy it'll do the job.

they look much more substantial than the Motrax and DH stuff and hopefully after all this effort I will never need to see if they are any good.

Cheers,
Mark

[Well Oiled]

Good on ya :thumbsup:

Have you changed the front sprocket yet? If not then you'll have even more fun than with the through bolt. :P

[gettin2dizzy]

Make sure you use some blue threadlocker (from ebay). The v-twin vibrates them loose otherwise. Torque is 60ft-lbs i think :)