winter storage for dummies

[drumroll]

hi folks - after what seems like ages getting all the info together, i thought id post an idiots guide to winter storage.

have just sucessfully completed it myself, and im useless with spanners, so thought id post this to help fellow un-mechanical folks. please feel free to add or comment! many thanks to the owners manual, google and fellow SVer Ebee for the info.

STEP ONE - wash the bike. try get in all the nooks and crannies - dont forget the underside of the engine, on the inside of swingarm and the suspension bits and bobs underneath the rear shock - its usually caked with rubbish.

STEP TWO - fill tank to the brim with petrol. add some petrol stabiliser - i found this stuff difficult to find so i ordered STA-BIL of ebay. cost 6 squid incl shipping. the full tank and stabiliser keep the moisture/tank rust at bay as well as keep the petrol from turning to jelly. run the engine for a few mins to get the stabilser in the injectors/carbs. whilst your at the garage - check the tyre pressures.

STEP THREE - you need access to the spark plug holes for this. to get to the front one, you need to undo the top bolt on the rad (just above the forks- it also holds a plastic flap) and the lower bolt on the right side of the rad. now the rad can move forward - get in there with the spark plug wrench supplied with the toolkit. remove the plug and put one tablespoon of engine oil down the spark plug hole. replace the spark plug and cap. to get to the rear plug you need to lift the tank - quite easy really. remove the front seat and the allen bolts at the front of the tank (near the headstock) the tank lifts forward. remove the plug and put oil down that hole too. put it all back together and crank the engine a few times. i did this by putting it in 6th gear and rolling the bike forward. the spark plugs are a bit fiddly to get out, but not too bad.

STEP FOUR- Drain the engine of oil and add new oil right to the top of the filler cap. the bugger is quite big - it took almost 11 litres of oil!! no need to change the filter at this point. Also adjust and lube the chain.

STEP FIVE - Remove the battery - on a pointy its under the seat - remember to disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal first. store the battery somewhere safe. ive got mine hooked up to an optimate charger - 35 squid from J&S - seems to work very well.

STEP SIX - By now the bike should be completely dry - wax the bodywork - i used colour magic - comes up a treat. it also protects the paintwork. I sprayed the rubber and vinyl with silicone spray for protection. Finally i sprayed all exposed alloy and metal with ACF50. i sprayed the engine casing, all the bits behind the frame, the frame itself - basically - all the parts that are not bodywork!! :) (ive heard that suzukis dissolve you see) - remember to keep it off the brakes!!!! this stuff is very good at keeping the worts of the decay at bay. also on the advice of ebee i sprayed some down the fuel overspill pipe - its under the fuel cap - it runs all the way down underneath the bike and is known to rust and basically ruin the tank. spray some down and you should see it drip out the bottom.

STEP SEVEN - store the bike!

provided you have all the bits and a few tools this should take you no more than 3 to 4 hours depending on how well you clean the bike :)

well, this is probably not a complete guide, but i think it covers most aspects. hope it helps anyone who needs to store their SV. Obviously please feel free to add or comment.

[hovis]

hi folks - after what seems like ages getting all the info together, i thought id post an idiots guide to winter storage.

have just sucessfully completed it myself, and im useless with spanners, so thought id post this to help fellow un-mechanical folks. please feel free to add or comment! many thanks to the owners manual, google and fellow SVer Ebee for the info.

STEP ONE - wash the bike. try get in all the nooks and crannies - dont forget the underside of the engine, on the inside of swingarm and the suspension bits and bobs underneath the rear shock - its usually caked with rubbish.

STEP TWO - fill tank to the brim with petrol. add some petrol stabiliser - i found this stuff difficult to find so i ordered STA-BIL of ebay. cost 6 squid incl shipping. the full tank and stabiliser keep the moisture/tank rust at bay as well as keep the petrol from turning to jelly. run the engine for a few mins to get the stabilser in the injectors/carbs. whilst your at the garage - check the tyre pressures.

STEP THREE - you need access to the spark plug holes for this. to get to the front one, you need to undo the top bolt on the rad (just above the forks- it also holds a plastic flap) and the lower bolt on the right side of the rad. now the rad can move forward - get in there with the spark plug wrench supplied with the toolkit. remove the plug and put one tablespoon of engine oil down the spark plug hole. replace the spark plug and cap. to get to the rear plug you need to lift the tank - quite easy really. remove the front seat and the allen bolts at the front of the tank (near the headstock) the tank lifts forward. remove the plug and put oil down that hole too. put it all back together and crank the engine a few times. i did this by putting it in 6th gear and rolling the bike forward. the spark plugs are a bit fiddly to get out, but not too bad.

STEP FOUR- Drain the engine of oil and add new oil right to the top of the filler cap. the bugger is quite big - it took almost 11 litres of oil!! no need to change the filter at this point. Also adjust and lube the chain. is this a joke?

STEP FIVE - Remove the battery - on a pointy its under the seat - remember to disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal first. store the battery somewhere safe. ive got mine hooked up to an optimate charger - 35 squid from J&S - seems to work very well.

STEP SIX - By now the bike should be completely dry - wax the bodywork - i used colour magic - comes up a treat. it also protects the paintwork. I sprayed the rubber and vinyl with silicone spray for protection. Finally i sprayed all exposed alloy and metal with ACF50. i sprayed the engine casing, all the bits behind the frame, the frame itself - basically - all the parts that are not bodywork!! :) (ive heard that suzukis dissolve you see) - remember to keep it off the brakes!!!! this stuff is very good at keeping the worts of the decay at bay. also on the advice of ebee i sprayed some down the fuel overspill pipe - its under the fuel cap - it runs all the way down underneath the bike and is known to rust and basically ruin the tank. spray some down and you should see it drip out the bottom.

STEP SEVEN - store the bike!

provided you have all the bits and a few tools this should take you no more than 3 to 4 hours depending on how well you clean the bike :)

well, this is probably not a complete guide, but i think it covers most aspects. hope it helps anyone who needs to store their SV. Obviously please feel free to add or comment.

[drumroll]

i take it you mean the bit about the oil - nope its correct - if you fill the engine oil to the top of the filler cap it takes almost 11 litres!

[hovis]

:laughat: STEP FOUR- Drain the engine of oil and add new oil right to the top of the filler cap. the bugger is quite big - it took almost 11 litres of oil!! no need to change the filter at this point. Also adjust and lube the chain.


:why: :-k :smt017 :scratch: :smt043

[hovis]

i take it you mean the bit about the oil - nope its correct - if you fill the engine oil to the top of the filler cap it takes almost 11 litres!

but why would you fill it to the top??

complete waste of money :shock:

[drumroll]

think its to keep everything lubed. its what Mr Suzuki suggests as per owners manual!

[gettin2dizzy]

did they suggest buying suzuki oil per-chance?!
hehe, good work though!

[mysteryjimbo]

It is all advisory to keep thing lubed up and will work a treat.

Personally i'd skip filling it to the top and do a fresh oil and filter change and run the engine for a few minutes pref riding to get a full spread. That should cover everything enough for the winter.

Alternatively, you could get out and ride it every weekday/weekend you can.

[John Burt]

Support the bike on two paddock stands if you can, keep the weight offf the tyres, failing that overinflate the tyres to prevent flat spots.

[Jdubya]

hi folks - ... Blah Blah and more Blah... Obviously please feel free to add or comment.

No thanks...way too much hassle...I think I'll clean up my textiles and just keep riding :wink: :P

[hovis]

hi folks - ... Blah Blah and more Blah... Obviously please feel free to add or comment.

No thanks...way too much hassle...I think I'll clean up my textiles and just keep riding :wink: :P

:roll: =D> :salut: well done

[Jdubya]

hi folks - ... Blah Blah and more Blah... Obviously please feel free to add or comment.

No thanks...way too much hassle...I think I'll clean up my textiles and just keep riding :wink: :P

:roll: =D> :salut: well done
Why, thank you kind sir :takeabow:

:lol:

[jambo]

i take it you mean the bit about the oil - nope its correct - if you fill the engine oil to the top of the filler cap it takes almost 11 litres!

but why would you fill it to the top??

complete waste of money :shock:

While your engine is running oil is being fed to all the right bits, while it's sat up say, 1/2 the gearbox can be wet and the top part be dry, if it's going to be left without turning over for a long perid of time this is not ideal.

Step 3 is to stop a similar fate befalling the piston bores.

I just start the thing up and run it for 10 miles or so every couple of weeks if I've got wone laid up (well, I try to anyway)

Jambo

[kwak zzr]

as above, i just start the thing and let it run for about 5-10 mins every week. i hear to many stories of ppl packing there bikes away for winter and having troub come summer.

[suzsv650]

oooooo i got a ideal !!!!!







































































STOP BEING A PHANZY AND RIDE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :roll:


had to be done!

[drumroll]

well - as i stated this was for folks who wanted to store their bike - those that dont neednt bother reading - the title doesnt say "how to turn your bike into a shed and freeze whilst doing it" does it?

[kwak zzr]

:smt021

[Warren]

put a carrier bag over your exhaust, to stop bugs and mice getting down there.

says in my haynes manual anyway :)

[Razor]

What if I don't wanna store my dummy for winter?

[Devil Biccy]

Excellent advice for a newbie I think, but as others I'll keep riding esp as I learnt to ride in Nov-Dec. However if I ever want to store my bike for winter I'll look this thread up again.

[sdusk]

I've seen very expensive gearboxes that have been ruined due to rust pitting because of long term storage where the oil didn't cover the gears fully. The advice to fill the oil up to the top is sound. Riding every few weeks is easier though!

[Jussi]

I`ll store my bike for obvious reasons e.g snow and ice. It is probably the same in Scotland... Well once o month I`ll give her a go and let her run for a while.
Yes i clean her, change the oil and the filter but, I let the battery where it is and it is connected. Have one of these smart chargers with a wire and a plug so every now and then i connect the Ctek 3600 charger to the bike. The plug is under the pillion seat so no fuss. Fuel stab i use as well.

Bike is stored to APR. +10 centigrade garage.

[rob13]

For those that want to store their bike its a good post, drumroll doesnt warrant criticism from the year round riders who choose to use it in all weathers rather than take the car.

[hovis]

For those that want to store their bike its a good post, drumroll doesnt warrant criticism from the year round riders who choose to use it in all weathers rather than take the car.

i agree...shame on you all :wink:

very good post(apart from the 11 litres of oil bit)

IMO

[zmax650S]

I did this exact same thing when I stored my bike for 6 months in my garage. I come back from deployment, change the oil, and unplug all the holes (airbox, mufflers, ect.), install the battery, and the bike starts perfectly.

After about 5 minutes, the FI light comes on, and the engine screams to the highest RPM. I checked all the connections and all is fine. My bike is an 05 650SVS with only 900 miles!

Could this be faulty Fuel injectors? I even drained most of the gas before I started it becuase it had to be moved down to Texas and the movers wouldn't let me ship it full of gas!

I didn't have time to mess with it while I was home, so I put back in storage and will take it out again in Mar 07. Thoughts?

Thinking of just taking it in to a Suzuki dealer where I am moving too!

[Ceri JC]

With regarding the fuel preservative, I'd recommend putting it in when the tank is 9/10ths full, run the engine for a couple of minutes, ideally on a short ride (to mix the preservative and petrol and get it all round the engine), then brim it.

[MavUK]

What if I don't wanna store my dummy for winter?
:lol: :lol: :lol:

For the storage (and my curiosity - riding in winter provides mroe benefits for me than riding in summer as far as commuting times go) I can see most of it (inc filling the oil if you are not going to be starting it once a week), but why adjust the chain? Surely if you get it to the right tension at the tsart of winter it's jusy going to strech over winter and need doing again when you get it out again. Isn't it better to leave it loose and remember to adjust when you come to use it next year?

Not trying to be picky, just wondering...

Stu

[wheelnut]

Step 8

Do not leave your boots or leathers in the garage or shed. I did and have helped to make nests for the local non vegetarian mice population.

My oxtar boots are full of mouse crap and my leathers have more ventilation holes than a string vest.

OOPS :shock:

Dont know whether I can claim from bike insurance though

[wheelnut]

Just discovered more mice problems.

I was changing my fuel tank and when I took the seat off there was a nest in there. Im worried that they might fall off when Im going quick.

It seems I have been lucky as I cant find any chewed wires. only a chewed plastic bag under the seat.

What do you do to keep them out?

[Biker Biggles]

Trade bike in for a thundercat.:D

[DoubleD]

Trade bike in for a thundercat.:D

lmao :p

[wheelnut]

Trade bike in for a thundercat.:D

Thanks:p

[markmoto]

just bung it in the garage itle be fine