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View Full Version : Help! Blown Clutch?


MavUK
29-11-06, 08:13 PM
Hey All,

I think I need a new clutch - could someone confirm for me please?

Riding in anything other than 5th or 6th and opening the throttle wide causes the enging to rev like mad whilst the speed slowly comes on. At first I thought the back wheel was spinning up in the cold damp, but it did it in the dry today.

I've shortened the clutch cable as much as possible in the clip-on to try and give it some free play but it's exactly the same.

Also, if I just touch the clutch lever it disengages and the engine spins freely.

If it is the clutch, is this a garage job, or is it a simple job?

If not the clutch what else could cause it?

TIA

Stu

rictus01
29-11-06, 08:38 PM
have you check the cable, I'm not talking the lever adjustment, but whether the cable is binding or not ?

you also fail to mention basic information, model, mileage and so forth.

as the procedure is different for both.

Cheers Mark.

MavUK
29-11-06, 08:53 PM
Bike info under my user name (in place of location :) )

It's a 2000, about 20 to 30K miles (and in case it makes a diff it's a continental model - I know that the head lights are different)

Any other info that you need?

Is this a case of removing the front cog cover and checking there? Or is there more to it?

Thanks in advance,

Stu

carlos
29-11-06, 08:55 PM
Its a 2000 black S model according to the location under the avatar.

Why not in 5th and 6th? If your clutch plates were fried these are the gears you'd most expect slipping. I'm with Rictus on this one, most likely something wrong with the cable.

BTW is your bike the black SVS I saw parked on the bridge next to the Grasshopper about 2 1/2 years ago sporting some lovely twin pipes?

MavUK
29-11-06, 09:10 PM
As far as I am aware it's never left Holland... And no :( it doesn't have twin pipes on it...

I'm hoping it's not a blown clutch, I can imagine that would hurt the bank more than I would like. It was just the only thing I could think of that would produce the symptoms (though no, it doesn't tick all the boxes).

A couple of other things, if I do the 'clutch check' that I've done on cars in the past it's fine. Pull int he clutch, rev, release the clutch. When I do this the revs drop straight away as you would expect.

And, when the engine spins whilst in gear the speed does slowly catch up. Pull the throttle, rev rise, then speed catches up to go to the correct point, or if you back off the throttle it drops to the correct point.

Stu

rictus01
29-11-06, 09:12 PM
If you release the cable under the front sprocket cover, you'll be able to check if it's free moving.

next you can remove the cam adjuster under there, and check that to is working freely.

after that remove the transfer rod (comes out from the adjuster and throught the engine to the clutch the otherside). making sure it's free and not bent at all.

If all this doesn't show a problem, the the clutch itself will need checking.

on the off side (right when sitting on the bike), take off the clutch cover (where you put in the oil/ 8mm bolts) to expose the clutch.

check not only the plates but also the basket for ware.

Cheers Make.

Biker Biggles
29-11-06, 09:16 PM
There's an adjuster under the front sprocket cover.Search this site for Sid Squid's definitive guide to clutch adjustment or someone more computer literate than me could point you in the right direction.

MavUK
29-11-06, 09:17 PM
Thanks for the info. Guess I can look forward to an enjoyable Saturday looking at the bike then :) Oh well, gotta service it anyways.

What can I look for in clutch wear? I've never checked a wet clutch before - only car clutches. Looking for same thing (Plates looking thing, grooves on the basket)?

Stu

Viney
29-11-06, 10:04 PM
Replacing the clutch plates isnt as expensive as you'd think if it turns out to be them. About £40 for a set of EBC ones and £50-60 for Suzuki ones.

Baskets however are expensive.

At 30k, id replace the clutch cable anyway.

MavUK
30-11-06, 07:06 AM
Cheers all.

One other thing. Whilst the cover is off should I douse everything ina liberal amount of WD to get rid of the gunk that builds up behind there?

Stu

rictus01
30-11-06, 07:10 AM
Cheers all.

One other thing. Whilst the cover is off should I douse everything ina liberal amount of WD to get rid of the gunk that builds up behind there?

Stu

by all means do so, but remember to grease the gear linkage as without it you'll have problems.

Cheers Mark.

Viney
30-11-06, 08:27 AM
Bike info under my user name (in place of location :) )

It's a 2000, about 20 to 30K miles (and in case it makes a diff it's a continental model - I know that the head lights are different)

Any other info that you need?

Is this a case of removing the front cog cover and checking there? Or is there more to it?

Thanks in advance,

Stu

No, the clutch is on the right hand side of the bike (Brake lever side)

MavUK
30-11-06, 09:54 AM
Bike info under my user name (in place of location :) )

It's a 2000, about 20 to 30K miles (and in case it makes a diff it's a continental model - I know that the head lights are different)

Any other info that you need?

Is this a case of removing the front cog cover and checking there? Or is there more to it?

Thanks in advance,

Stu

No, the clutch is on the right hand side of the bike (Brake lever side)

But the cable (to checkl first) is on the clutch lever side right?

Stu

rictus01
30-11-06, 09:57 AM
yes.

Viney
30-11-06, 10:15 AM
Bike info under my user name (in place of location :) )

It's a 2000, about 20 to 30K miles (and in case it makes a diff it's a continental model - I know that the head lights are different)

Any other info that you need?

Is this a case of removing the front cog cover and checking there? Or is there more to it?

Thanks in advance,

Stu

No, the clutch is on the right hand side of the bike (Brake lever side)

But the cable (to checkl first) is on the clutch lever side right?

StuAh! Then as rictus said

MavUK
03-12-06, 01:19 PM
OK checked everything (and got soaked in the process - why do things break when it's raining?). Everything appears to be free. I adjusted the cable at the engine end and all seems well now.

The thing I am worried about is why would it do this? I can understand having to make the cable sleeve longer when th ecable stretches, but making it shorter isn't something I was expecting. Can I expect more expense at a later date, or is this somewhat normal?

TIA

Stu

RandyO
04-12-06, 04:22 PM
OK checked everything (and got soaked in the process - why do things break when it's raining?). Everything appears to be free. I adjusted the cable at the engine end and all seems well now.

The thing I am worried about is why would it do this? I can understand having to make the cable sleeve longer when th ecable stretches, but making it shorter isn't something I was expecting. Can I expect more expense at a later date, or is this somewhat normal?

TIA

Stu


common misconception is that the clutch is adjusted with the cable

WRONG

as posted already, the clutch adjustment is under the front sprocket cover, it is NOT a cable adjustment

there is screw & locknut adjustment that adjusts the clutch

the cable adjustment does not adjust the clutch on either end it adjusts the cable

there should be no need to touch the clutch or cable adjustments between routine minor service every 3500-4000 miles