getting heated grips off -more help please!!

[jenni]

yep, you read it right!

the oxford grips on my bikes have decided to stop working just when the weather gets cold :evil:

can't be arsed working out whats wrong with them, yes ive checked the fuse.

so i'm gonna get rid and replace them with daytonas instead

the lhs grip is not glued on but the throttle side is glued on.

Anyone got any advice on how to remove the grips as they are quite a bit thicker than standard

stanley knife? glue remover?

cheers

[Spanner Man]

Evening.
I find that sliding something long and thin, like an old screwdriver between the grip and the bars works pretty well, then get some silicone lube, wd40 or similar in there, and work the long thingy around the grip whilst twisting the grip with ones other hand.
Be carefull when doing the throttle side as it is quite easy to break the twistgrip itself.

Cheers.

[thor]

I fixed my heated grips. Turned out that the problem was the control box - rusted right through. Maybe a quick couple of minutes would diagnose the issue and then you can buy another box from oxford? You never know, some helpful chap from here might just give you one?

Cheers Northy!

[northwind]

I'd give you one any time :) But tragically, I gave Thor one and he never gave me one back.

That's enough of that, I reckon. But he's right, probably the control boxm they're rubbish. If you do want to remove them, well, depends how much glue you used. I find just giving them a really strong twist usually does the trick- but be careful, if you still use the wee plsatic retainer on the throttle side it might break off, and that's quite annoying.

[jenni]

thanks for the advice so far.....

it wouldn't surprise me if it was the control box cos it lights up, but the grips dont get hot... best way of working it out?

[northwind]

You can just bypass the control box, and wire the grips straight to the terminals, the Oxford grips are very simple unlike the Hondas. That'll tell you for sure, but the odds of them both breaking down at the same time are very slim, so it'll be the box, I bet you a pound.

I discarded the box entirely (that's how Thor got it!) and replaced it with a simple switch and light from Halfords, home of top quality motoring accessories :) But I think some people find that too unsubtle. I always had mine full on, or off, so the lack of control's irrelevant.

[Fearg]

it wouldn't surprise me if it was the control box cos it lights up, but the grips dont get hot... best way of working it out?


If you have a simple multi-meter you can check the resistance of the grips and the 12v supply from the control box quite easily.

If you disconnect the grips from the control box check you hav 12v DC coming out with it switched on (with ignition on if wired through switched supply)

If you have got 12V there then check resistance of the grips, select ohms scale on the multi-meter and do a quick continuity check. Both grips should have the same resistance otherwise they won't heat evenly.

Finallt check the connectors themselves for corrsion or broken wires.

Hope this makes sense

Good luck :D

[454697819]

I believe it is wired into the switched side of the bikes circuit, so technically if you want them on full all the time i guess you can bypass the control box.

However if its less than a year since they went on, will the control box not still be under warranty? might be worth giving them a call.

[thor]

Oxford don't deal with warranty claims direct, you have to take it back to retailer where you got it. One of reasons I didn't do that.

[northwind]

Not my experience with Oxford... Though it was quite hard to find someone who could help, once i did I got great service from them. My immobiliser was ages out of warranty but they still provided replacement parts free of charge, and faster than most companies would if I was paying for it.

[jenni]

just found my reciept and i fitted them well over a year ago, doesn't time fly lol

anyway northy, if i can be a pain...what sort of thing did you get from hafwits??? can you send me a link/ pic of the sort of thing you mean?

[northwind]

It's basically one of these:

http://images.orgill.com/200x200/6014948.JPG

They sell a range of 2-pole switches, including some that light up, some push switches too (if you get a push-switch, it has to be latching not interrupt- an interrupt switch would stay on only when you held it down) They've a small range that's usually in with the cable ties and suchlike, or you can get similiar in loads of car parts places, or Maplin probably.

Woo, one of these!

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/resources/images/zoom/LON4547.jpg

[jenni]

so i have the day off and i thought id give it a go.....


and i'm stuck already!! do i just cut the switch box off and forget about it- then bypass it by linking the wires???


i think i'm being daft but its scarey lol...

[Baph]

There's some connectors that should just disconnect neatly for most of it, but trace the wire back to the fusebox or battery (it'll have an inline fuse).

If it's like mine, it's soldered into the fusebox, and you'd need to cut it then wrap in insulation tape(or de-solder). If it's wired to the battery (or spliced into the ignition wiring), then it should be easier to take off.

If you've got a digital camera, upload a pic, as it's easier to tell how it's wired on your bike :)

[454697819]

are you removing them completely? or trying to by pass?

Ill help where i can jenni :)

[jenni]

lol thanks guys but i was panicing over nothing

i bypassed the switch with an electricans conducting block and lo and behold i have heat. I popped back to maplin and showed then by handiwork and they suggested a simple switch i can hide somewhere. I am now covering everything in electrical tape.

:D :D Many thanks everybody

[454697819]

Please to hear its sorted,

Strange the switch should break, how many miles have you done with them on the bike?

[thor]

Hot glue gun is a good way to seal things.

[jenni]

just past 10,000 miles today :twisted: :twisted:

so thats probably about 8000,

to be fair its all my own fault. the box came off the fairing due to the sticky stuff not sticking and i left it hanging :oops:

lesson learnt i suppose

[thor]

Please to hear its sorted,

Strange the switch should break, how many miles have you done with them on the bike?

I left mine parked outside for two months. Not impressed.

[Baph]

My grips are so hot, that on half power, they happily burn my hands. Great! But unfortunately, I need the variable resistance.

So for this little problem, before putting the control box together, it got coated in Epoxy resin, then put together, then cable tied to the bike. IF it fails at any point outside of the warranty, I'll bomb-proof a potentiometer & use that. I could probably get finer control that way anyway, but I can't be bothered fixing something that works.

Glad to hear you sorted it jenni!

[northwind]

The control box is pretty much rubbish... Oh aye, jenni, Thor's spot on about the hot glue gun, not exactly manufacturer recommended but it works brilliantly. Self amalgamating tape is better than electrical tape as it's, well, better :wink: Not quite so easy to work with but it seals better and doesn't go off with age, or leave horrible residue.

Mine jus tstopped working last night... Mind you, the conditions were pretty horrific, I bet water got in somewhere it shouldn't and blew the fuse. Naturally, that'd only happen when 50 miles from home in a rainstorm.