which used sv650 would you pick?

[sneaky]

2001 6,500 miles with tire hugger guard $3,000.

2004 8,500 miles No Modifications. it was street parked and knocked it over. As a result, the turn signal cracked, the front wheel was misaligned, and a few wires got pinched. $3,200.

2003 4,773 miles with fender eliminator kit, moto-sliders, and k&n air filter. $4,250.

thanks

[Baph]

Hi & welcome to the madhouse!

Personally out of the options:

1) 1300 miles/year, no other real details about it.
2) Possibility of pinched wires from a drop when parked? Erm, sounds a little dubious. I'd suspect the electrical faults were there before the drop, and could be a pain to find/fix. Front wheel got out of alignment on the same standing drop? Erm, yea, ok. Run, don't walk, run!
3) Someone's spent a fair amount of money on add-ons. I'd put money on it they had a heavy right hand too.

So option 1 it is then, but bare in mind, if you know nothing about a bikes history, it's a can of worms in itself. You might get nothing wrong, you might get something worse than the other two combined.

HTH

[Luckypants]

What Baph said, only go for the 2001 cos it's a curvy, they are faster you know!

[james160987]

option 3 for me,

i have a full system, i weouldnt mind a filter, i have crash bings (motosliders) and im on a 33bhp lience and to afriid to crank it on as if i get more points ( got 3 in my car) id lose my lience, modifications dont always mean hard ridden

[Baph]

modifications dont always mean hard ridden

I have to say I agree with what you're saying. But, how many bikes with those modifications have had a good thrashing? Also I'd suspect a bike with such low milage and those mods had mainly been used on a track. All I'm saying is it's more likely, not guaranteed though. Also, if the buyer is looking to do those modifications anyway, it could be a way to save money. Horses for courses.

Restriction applies mainly to top end (as you know), and can still get you fast enough to get points. Hard riding doesn't mean a high top speed. But then, there's other factors to take into account when the bike is in front of you too.

Mike, whilst you're suffering from carb icing, I'll be playing in the bends :P (not too fast in those bends though, damn cold out this morning - oh wait, you work from home, you wouldn't know, sorry :oops: :P )

Just my 2p :)

[fizzwheel]

Now personally I wouldnt buy bike 2 if its been on the floor. But thats just me. So that leaves you with bike 1 or bike 3.

Find out as much as you can about bike 1 and bike 3. Talk to the owners, if they've got bills and receipts and service history have a good look at it all. View both bikes in the flesh and talk to the owners. Have a look in the garage and if its got a paddock stand in it, and its full of cleaning products and stuff like chain lube etc etc, then you'll get a better picture of the type of person the owner is.

Get a HPI check or something like that to find out if the bikes been involed in an accident or has oustanding finance on it.

What you want to be doing, is buying the bike thats in the best condition for the money you have to spend. Don't remember to factor in stuff like insurance. Have a look at the condition of the tyres to, how much life have they get on in them etc stuff like that,

If you don't know what your looking at then take a mate with you that does.

Modifications don't add value to a bike. So don't pay more money for a bike thats been modified, but bear in mind that if you do buy a bike with modifications and they are modifications that you'll do yourself anyway once you've got the bike then that might save time and money once you've bought the bike.

And never ever buy the first bike that you look at.

Find out some more about bikes 1 and 3 and maybe look at a few more.

3) Someone's spent a fair amount of money on add-ons. I'd put money on it they had a heavy right hand too.

Really, you really think that a tail tidy, a set of crash bungs and a K & N Air Filter is a fair amount of money. Its not really is it. Probably £200 at the most. Never jump to conclusions about how the bikes been ridden until you've talked to the owner.

[hovis]

2001 6,500 miles with tire hugger guard $3,000.

2004 8,500 miles No Modifications. it was street parked and knocked it over. As a result, the turn signal cracked, the front wheel was misaligned, and a few wires got pinched. $3,200.

2003 4,773 miles with fender eliminator kit, moto-sliders, and k&n air filter. $4,250.

thanks

it depends on weather you want a pointy or curvy?

i personally would go for NO. 1 IF you can find out if its never been dropped

no. 2 sounds cheap but the damage could be worse than you think & will cost to repair

no. 3 sounds ok


BUT................. Without seeing testing the bikes its hard to say??

most important of all.......get the yellow one :roll:

[Baph]

Really, you really think that a tail tidy, a set of crash bungs and a K & N Air Filter is a fair amount of money. Its not really is it. Probably £200 at the most. Never jump to conclusions about how the bikes been ridden until you've talked to the owner.

More money than I can justify on modifications that don't do an awful lot. So yup, a fair amount of money in my book.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for doing the tail tidy, if/when finances permit. I'm in no big rush, and if I never get around to it, I'm certainly not going to loose sleep. The air filter, well, the stock one works, so it can stay until it doesn't work.

[james160987]

i earn 400 ish a month as i only work part time, left school 6 months ago and serching for a fulltime job, in modifactions on my sv

tailtidy,
l.e.d indys fromn the states, watsen ones
l.e.d rear ones,
micron full system
double bubble screen

hopefulyl fit my gsxr shock at some point, all becuase i like changint little bits on the bike to make it look a little different,

ive never done a track day, i dont ride fast , but i spend my money on the bike as i dont have much else to and it brings me a little more joy, so as people have said definilty speak to the owner,

[wyrdness]

I would go for bike 3, as it's had some of the more popular mods already done and I personally prefer the pointy shape.

[kwak zzr]

option 3 for me. :D

[sneaky]

thanks for feedback.

this forum is great!

now no.2 is out of my choice.

i don't know much about difference between pointy and curvy, and i'm wondering what's pros and cons about carburetor and injection.

2001 and 6,500 miles is the one i saw first, i test ride it little and it seems fine and good condition, and the owner is very nice and honest.

does $1200 worth paying between 2001 and 2003 (of course i'll try to make it lower)?

thanks

[Baph]

i don't know much about difference between pointy and curvy, and i'm wondering what's pros and cons about carburetor and injection.

Carbs (curvies) suffer from carb icing, but are generally cheaper to fix if something goes wrong. FI has the advantage that it'll start happily in sub-zero temperatures (mine did this morning without battering an eye-lid!), but they cost more to fix when the go wrong. Even just finding a fault with FI could be more expensive than fixing a carb.

But since you're talking Dollars, obviously you'll have to weigh up the temperature thing for yourself.

As for what the bikes are worth, only you can really answer that (in my opinion). Non of us have actually seen/heard the bikes you're looking at.