View Full Version : k2 naked - remove air filter housing
I started taking off the air filter housing today. But the housing to front carb clamp screw seems a tad inaccessible. Is it just a case of using a long screwdriver to get at it or is there a trick to it?
JohnH
netsurfer
23-12-06, 11:13 PM
I had this problem too... not sure if its the right way to proceed but I did the following:
Loosened the clamp for the rear carb seal
Pulled the airbox up, pulling the front seal away from the airbox.
Refitting is a little tricky getting the front seal seated again, however this was the only way I could manage to get the airbox off.
Pete
I had this problem too... not sure if its the right way to proceed but I did the following:
Loosened the clamp for the rear carb seal
Pulled the airbox up, pulling the front seal away from the airbox.
Refitting is a little tricky getting the front seal seated again, however this was the only way I could manage to get the airbox off.
Pete
Thanks Pete. I'll see if any others on here give me any info before proceeding. I'm pretty p'd off with it really. The Haynes manual just says some crap about loosening the clamps and removing the housing, as if that was all there to it. All I want to do is to see why the choke cable doesn't work. :?
John
21QUEST
23-12-06, 11:30 PM
Yes you need a long screw driver( I think it is a No2 Philips) for the front. Use a good quality one and make sure it is sitting properly before you attempt to screw or unsrcew.
To put it back on, attach the breather hoses as far in as you can then gentle wriggle the front on first. Then you can sit the rear. You may need to raise the front a touch to get the rear in.
Don't forget on the right(as you sit on bike) of the airbox there is the oil drain pipe. Make sure as you sit the air box it is actually going in next to the slot on the carb rail(?) and is not being caught by the electric wires on that side.
Before doing up the clamps make sure the the connection for the HT coil(Low tension side on left of bike) hasn't been accidentally unplugged when putting the air box on. A quick check is to start the bike and if it's has been pulled off, the tacho would register. Also check the breather hoses at engine end is sitting properly. Then you can do the clamps up. Not too tight mind.
Cheers
Ben
Yes you need a long screw driver( I think it is a No2 Philips) for the front. Use a good quality one and make sure it is sitting properly before you attempt to screw or unsrcew.
To put it back on, attach the breather hoses as far in as you can then gentle wriggle the front on first. Then you can sit the rear. You may need to raise the front a touch to get the rear in.
Don't forget on the right(as you sit on bike) of the airbox there is the oil drain pipe. Make sure as you sit the air box it is actually going in next to the slot on the carb rail(?) and is not being caught by the electric wires on that side.
Before doing up the clamps make sure the the connection for the HT coil(Low tension side on left of bike) hasn't been accidentally unplugged when putting the air box on. A quick check is to start the bike and if it's has been pulled off, the tacho would register. Also check the breather hoses at engine end is sitting properly. Then you can do the clamps up. Not too tight mind.
Cheers
Ben
Thanks Ben,
I'm going to shove everything back together tomorrow and shoot up to Pontypool to see my sis. I'll get the sdriver on wednesday.
I dunno, since I got this bike in october, I have been adding to my tool collection at a hell of a rate. It's playing hell with my drinking too. :shock:
Merry Christmas,
John
21QUEST
23-12-06, 11:54 PM
...... All I want to do is to see why the choke cable doesn't work. :?
John
Aah the dreaded choke palava. If you lived closer to me I would have been happy to pop round to have a look. If only because I hate the SV choke playing hard ball :x :? :lol: . I've jus had to have a look at mine
It's probably the front (although I've had rear as well) that is the problem and that's the difficult one to get to without one breaking bits off the splitter if the whole carb is not being taken off. The rear you can check without much hassle.
At this point though I'll say again make sure you have good quality screw drivers. Ideally a long one(need that for the air box anyways) as well because the screw can be a b*tch to get off and you need to be apply sufficient leverage with a good quality tool without any slippage. Any rounding off due to the screw driver slipping would almost mean you won't be able to get them out without an impact driver(good to have that handy in any case).
With the air box off you could try checking the split for the choke cables to see if it is intact. If it has bits broken off it the cables may have been pulled out of the housing preventing them from operating as they should.
Be careful about getting dirt into the carbs or the engine if taking the carbs off. Some lint free rags slipped over the openings as I take either the air box or carbs off works for me. Then a clean around to make sure no dirt gets in when it's time to put carbs or air box back in.
EDIT: Another choke problem http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=49110
Merry Christmas to you John
Cheers
Ben
ps: You replied as I was typing
...... All I want to do is to see why the choke cable doesn't work. :?
John
Aah the dreaded choke palava. If you lived closer to me I would have been happy to pop round to have a look. If only because I hate the SV choke playing hard ball :x :? :lol: . I've jus had to have a look at mine
It's probably the front (although I've had rear as well) that is the problem and that's the difficult one to get to without one breaking bits off the splitter if the whole carb is not being taken off. The rear you can check without much hassle.
At this point though I'll say again make sure you have good quality screw drivers. Ideally a long one(need that for the air box anyways) as well because the screw can be a b*tch to get off and you need to be apply sufficient leverage with a good quality tool without any slippage. Any rounding off due to the screw driver slipping would almost mean you won't be able to get them out without an impact driver(good to have that handy in any case).
With the air box off you could try checking the split for the choke cables to see if it is intact. If it has bits broken off it the cables may have been pulled out of the housing preventing them from operating as they should.
Be careful about getting dirt into the carbs or the engine if taking the carbs off. Some lint free rags slipped over the openings as I take either the air box or carbs off works for me. Then a clean around to make sure no dirt gets in when it's time to put carbs or air box back in.
EDIT: Another choke problem http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=49110
Merry Christmas to you John
Cheers
Ben
ps: You replied as I was typing
HI,
I got the long one today. Checked the clamp screws. They loosened up like mmm er..... I don't know what :o). But I was too 'merry' to go any further so I have left it til tomo probably. Where to get O rings and suchlike?
Happy New Year
John
northwind
27-12-06, 12:14 PM
I just leave the boot attached to the carb, and pull the airbox off its boot. I'm sure it's not supposed to do that, but it's miles easier.
It was going too well.
Air filter housing came off easy. Then I used two small freezer bags and elastic bands to seal the air intakes - fine so far.
Sh*t!!! someone has tried to take out the rear carb choke plunger screw with a rusty nail! No sign of a phillips/crosspoint shape left!. Last time I used a stud extractor the damn thing broke off in the stud!
Any ideas guys? Mine is to displace the rear carb and try to get a small mole wrench onto the screwhead. Any others?
John.
fizzwheel
27-12-06, 03:23 PM
Molegrips might do it, Is there much of a head on the screw left ? If so get yourself a junior hacksaw and cut a slot in whats left of the screwhead and then get a nice big flat blade screwdriver and see if it'll turn with that. I suspect though that screw is properly rusted into the body of the carb. like mine was. I ended up wedging a flat blade screwdriver onto the head of the screw and then banging the screwdriver with a hammer. A few deft blows with the hammer broke the rust seal on the screw thread and then I was able to undo it.
Its easier to do this with the carbs off the bike though.
Note : according to Sid Squid who knows about this stuff, beating your carbs with a big screwdriver and hammer isnt really a good idea as it might do more harm than good. Just be careful.
HTH
northwind
27-12-06, 04:34 PM
I used mole grips on mine the first time...
Update:
I bought some new molegrips from B&Q which didn't do the trick and also an impact driver from Halfords which did.
removed the carb assembly after first snapping the corroded choke cable inside the rear carb plunger housing. Was I p*ssed off about that! The plunger was corroded in and I had to drip in acf50 and tease it about to extract it. Housing is full of crap. Ive left it for now going to the pub!
O yes - what do choke cables cost? Can I only get it from a Suzuki dealer?
Happy New Year
John
fizzwheel
28-12-06, 03:06 PM
Nice one. Both mine were seized up solid like that to.
O yes - what do choke cables cost? Can I only get it from a Suzuki dealer?
They arent hugely expensive, IIRC and it was a while ago about £15 - £20 range I think. I think you'll need the Suzuki ones as it has a splitter box that splits the cable in two ( this is where the water gets in ) so that theres a cable for the front carb and one for the rear. I got mine from my local Suzuki dealer.
Nice one. Both mine were seized up solid like that to.
O yes - what do choke cables cost? Can I only get it from a Suzuki dealer?
They arent hugely expensive, IIRC and it was a while ago about £15 - £20 range I think. I think you'll need the Suzuki ones as it has a splitter box that splits the cable in two ( this is where the water gets in ) so that theres a cable for the front carb and one for the rear. I got mine from my local Suzuki dealer.£23-£29 depending on who you buy from.
You will only get the cable. If you need any of the bits like brass plungers, orings, springs etc, you will need to buy them seperatly
Nice one. Both mine were seized up solid like that to.
O yes - what do choke cables cost? Can I only get it from a Suzuki dealer?
They arent hugely expensive, IIRC and it was a while ago about £15 - £20 range I think. I think you'll need the Suzuki ones as it has a splitter box that splits the cable in two ( this is where the water gets in ) so that theres a cable for the front carb and one for the rear. I got mine from my local Suzuki dealer.£23-£29 depending on who you buy from.
You will only get the cable. If you need any of the bits like brass plungers, orings, springs etc, you will need to buy them seperatly
From some of the net suppliers the cables are as little as £11.99 plus £3 postage. I'm a bit hesistant about getting these as you are saying £23-£29.. what to do?
The brass plungers look ok and the orings look the same size as hoselock ones. Will only dealers have the springs? (one of the springs is corroded).
Will dealers have this stuff in stock? If so I will get it all tomorrow.
John
fizzwheel
28-12-06, 06:18 PM
The cable that I bought came with everything except the brass plungers and the springs. It had new O rings and also the little metal tube that the cable runs through before you attatch it to the brass plunger.
The dealer I use had one in stock so you might be lucky otherwise they'll have to order it in for you .
Dealer quoted about £23 plus vat and would get in for next thurs or Friday. Ordered it from wemoto.com for £14 inclusive of vat and delivery. Probably get in thurs next week though. :(
what's best to clean the crap out of the plunger housing?
And you all reckon carb balancing sould be done too? I recall someone saying sth about putting extension tubes on the vac take-offs while I've got the chance. Doesn't that affect the carburation at all?
John
northwind
29-12-06, 02:09 PM
And you all reckon carb balancing sould be done too? I recall someone saying sth about putting extension tubes on the vac take-offs while I've got the chance. Doesn't that affect the carburation at all?
Nah... What you usually have is a cap on the carb. You just add a short tube, few inches, with a cap on the end instead. As long as it's sealed it'll be no problem at all. Maybe if you added miles of pipe...
Well worth doing IMO. And no time like the present :)
And you all reckon carb balancing sould be done too? I recall someone saying sth about putting extension tubes on the vac take-offs while I've got the chance. Doesn't that affect the carburation at all?
Nah... What you usually have is a cap on the carb. You just add a short tube, few inches, with a cap on the end instead. As long as it's sealed it'll be no problem at all. Maybe if you added miles of pipe...
Well worth doing IMO. And no time like the present :)
Yeah - I will do that even if I don't do the balancing straight off.
vBulletin® , Copyright ©2000-2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.