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View Full Version : rusty looking chain....


craigk
29-12-06, 11:56 PM
ever since i noticed my scottoiler was empty, my chain was looking a little dry. now that i`ve topped the fluid up, the chain has got even worse. i even got some wd in a container and brushed it on. there is some fluid coming out so it is working in a way but not as it used to.

just wondering if there is anyone out there that may know what may be wrong..

cheers

oldjack
30-12-06, 12:12 AM
I think you have to prime the tubing to remove all the air locks if it has been allowed to run dry, just refilling the reservoir is not enough, you need to set the dial to prime and force oil through the tubing until all the air is removed (you use the filler bottle as a pump).

craigk
30-12-06, 12:31 AM
hiya oldjack. i think i did do that because it mentioned something about it in the manual for the oiler. i remember using the bottle and the tube untill the oil came out the feeder at the sprocket.

Razor
30-12-06, 12:38 AM
Are you using the blue or the red oil?
You should be using blue.
I set mine to prime and then just run the engine a bit.

craigk
30-12-06, 12:46 AM
Are you using the blue or the red oil?
You should be using blue.
I set mine to prime and then just run the engine a bit.

its the blue/green looking colour what the diffence between the two..??

it used to work great b4 cause i flung it all up the number plate. but looking at it now its getting very little oil on the inside of the chain bet the outside is going rusty

craigk
30-12-06, 12:59 AM
sorry to be rude but i will reply to any posts tomorrow.i`m off to bed i`m knackered.

Davies
30-12-06, 02:03 AM
rusty looking chain....

crap band :lol:

Stig
30-12-06, 01:36 PM
Are you sure that the feeder tube is located in the correct position? If not, it doesn't matter how well the oiler works, if it's not directed in the correct position it will do nothing. Also, have you checked that the flow is fast enough?

Blue is for cold and warm weather, red is for hot. Red is thicker a thicker oil than the blue as when it's hot it thins out. If you are using red oil it may be too thick too flow properly.

I assume that you have checked to ensure that it is flowing when the bike is running? I have mine set to about 4 drops a minute in the current weather.

thor
30-12-06, 03:19 PM
Turn on the engine and see if it's working. My vacuum plug came off the cylinder once, so worth checking everything. A bit of light rust on the outside of the plates isn't too bad. If you store it outside for long periods it might be worth spraying on a waxy lube after a ride instead.

craigk
30-12-06, 07:19 PM
Turn on the engine and see if it's working. My vacuum plug came off the cylinder once, so worth checking everything. A bit of light rust on the outside of the plates isn't too bad. If you store it outside for long periods it might be worth spraying on a waxy lube after a ride instead.

where can i check the vacuum hose. the actual resavoir is under the rear seat.

craigk
30-12-06, 07:47 PM
Are you sure that the feeder tube is located in the correct position? If not, it doesn't matter how well the oiler works, if it's not directed in the correct position it will do nothing. Also, have you checked that the flow is fast enough?

Blue is for cold and warm weather, red is for hot. Red is thicker a thicker oil than the blue as when it's hot it thins out. If you are using red oil it may be too thick too flow properly.

I assume that you have checked to ensure that it is flowing when the bike is running? I have mine set to about 4 drops a minute in the current weather.

i aint moved the position of the drip tube since i bought the bike, its currently touching the rear sprocket at the bottom just where the chain meets, this problem has only occurred since it ran out and i topped it back up. thing is i dont know where to adjust it to. its positioned under the passenger seat and the black adjuster lever thing on the top is passed half way.

kwak zzr
30-12-06, 07:47 PM
Rust looking chain? mmmm :? i use wd40 a toothbrush and a rag :oops: you can evan read DID on the links :oops:

craigk
30-12-06, 07:49 PM
How do kwak zzr.

i did that the other day, it seems that when i come back off a ride its all flung off....

kwak zzr
30-12-06, 07:56 PM
yea when its clean spray it with pj1 or something sim and let it set on for a few hours before riding, it does fling tho. where in wolves are u craigk?

craigk
30-12-06, 08:04 PM
yea when its clean spray it with pj1 or something sim and let it set on for a few hours before riding, it does fling tho. where in wolves are u craigk?

just by the "Merry Boys" (off the Willenhall road)

kwak zzr
30-12-06, 08:27 PM
ahh right by my place of work! we'll have to get a ride out in the summer.

craigk
30-12-06, 08:32 PM
ahh right by my place of work! we'll have to get a ride out in the summer.

sound...been waiting for some decent weather to come.. had some new Metz`ers fitted a couple of months back i`m up to the elephants trunk at the mo on the rear strips... got to get them down..

netsurfer
30-12-06, 08:36 PM
Rust looking chain? mmmm :? i use wd40 a toothbrush and a rag :oops: you can evan read DID on the links :oops:

WD40 will damage the o-rings over time!

Pete

kwak zzr
30-12-06, 08:40 PM
yea i know but i dont like the look of a shi#y chain I'd rather change the chain at more regular intervals. :roll:

oldjack
30-12-06, 10:20 PM
Craig, it sounds like the drip tube is positioned OK. The black adjuster thing needs to be turned fully clockwise so the pointer is set to 'prime' (written on the reservoir rim together with the numbers 1 to 10 [I think], mine's under the seat too, its a bit hard to read without a torch). Then you need to force all the air locks out of the tubing by pushing oil through it using the oil bottle as a pump - push the nozzle of the bottle into the hole at the top of the rubber plug so there's an airtight fit and squeeze the bottle so the air locks move down the tubing, oil will only flow properly when all the air locks have gone. Then reset the adjuster to halfway again and run the engine, oil should drip freely if the vacuum pipe connection to the engine is OK. Mine's set on number 2, much less than halfway.

See the scottoiler website for where the vacuum tube is likely to be connected, it tells you all this stuff anyway, you can download the instruction manual.

Hope this helps.

netsurfer
31-12-06, 01:07 AM
yea i know but i dont like the look of a shi#y chain I'd rather change the chain at more regular intervals. :roll:

So get a "kettenmax" kit and use kerosene - you can have your cake AND eat it ;)

Pete

Heed
31-12-06, 01:24 AM
That actually looks pretty good mate. Do you know of any cheap UK stockists? Only as I'm too lazy to search!

steveg
31-12-06, 01:52 PM
Don't have a Scot oiler , just clean chain every month or so with Parafin & a tooth brush , and lube once / twice a week depending on weather.

Should really invest in a Scotoiler , had a chain tec oiler years ago , however that was cr#p , which kind of put me off .

I'm sure the Scot oiler would be great.

Cheers Steve

craigk
02-01-07, 10:49 PM
Craig, it sounds like the drip tube is positioned OK. The black adjuster thing needs to be turned fully clockwise so the pointer is set to 'prime' (written on the reservoir rim together with the numbers 1 to 10 [I think], mine's under the seat too, its a bit hard to read without a torch). Then you need to force all the air locks out of the tubing by pushing oil through it using the oil bottle as a pump - push the nozzle of the bottle into the hole at the top of the rubber plug so there's an airtight fit and squeeze the bottle so the air locks move down the tubing, oil will only flow properly when all the air locks have gone. Then reset the adjuster to halfway again and run the engine, oil should drip freely if the vacuum pipe connection to the engine is OK. Mine's set on number 2, much less than halfway.

See the scottoiler website for where the vacuum tube is likely to be connected, it tells you all this stuff anyway, you can download the instruction manual.

Hope this helps.

cheers pal will do..

Well Oiled
02-01-07, 10:58 PM
If you've filled your scottoiler reservoir and you can get at the breather tube easily take the air filter bit off the end, put the reservoir onto prime, start the engine so the outlet valve opens and blow down the breather tube to pressurise the reservoir until you see oil dripping onto the chain. That worked for me.

Cheers Keith

craigk
02-01-07, 11:08 PM
If you've filled your scottoiler reservoir and you can get at the breather tube easily take the air filter bit off the end, put the reservoir onto prime, start the engine so the outlet valve opens and blow down the breather tube to pressurise the reservoir until you see oil dripping onto the chain. That worked for me.

Cheers Keith

cheers mate...i`ve onle had these probs since 1 the resavoir ran dry. 2 i had new tyres put on.(has the chain been put back on at the correct tension??

Well Oiled
03-01-07, 12:04 AM
Chain tension's nowt to do with scottoiler operation, but you can check it easy enough - there should be about an inch of movement up & down at the mid-point of the bottom of the chain.