View Full Version : Chain/Rear Wheel questions (long post)
thedonal
21-05-07, 12:03 PM
I'm having a few problems with my chain at the moment- I tighten it with about 20-30mm play, as per the manual, then ride for a while and becomes really tight. Then, if I slacken a little to the correct tension (quarter to half turn on the adjusters), the chain becomes REEEEAAALLY slack. There are a few notches left on the swingarm, but does this mean that the chain either
A) needs replacing
B) needs a link-ectomy or two?
Looks like there is a little wear on the front sprocket, but I'm not sure how to guage this- the back sprocket teeth look OK.
There is also a rubbing/sliding sound when the wheel turns (similar to the sound when you pass parked cars in the street)- more noticeable at speed and it affects the engine speed (though isn't caused by this)- I can feel a few vibes through the pegs with it too if I ride at 50 and pull the clutch lever in/drop the revs. The tyres were replaced a couple of months ago and the bearings seemed fine/not remarked about by the fitters- so I'm thinking it's either something to do with the chain or even the back brake (pads getting replaced next weekend- just at the end of the wear indicator).
I notice that the wheel/chain adjuster for the right hand side of the swing arm won't come out any further- the bolt just unscrews, so I can only tighten it- could it be that the wheel's not properly aligned? Each side is matched up and the ride doesn't feel noticeably different....
Any suggestions guys'n'gals? (thanks for reading the essay too!)
fizzwheel
21-05-07, 12:08 PM
Sounds like either your chains at the end of its life or that you have a tight spot on it, which also means its at the end of its life...
I'm sure somebody a bit more knowledagble than me will be along in a minute though...
First thing that springs to mind is tight spots in the chain.
When you are adjusting the chain, do you spin the rear wheel and check the slack at different parts of the chain.
If you have tight spots and are tightening the chain to the loose part then the chain will be stretched even more and the tight bits. This certainly sounds like what you are doing going by your description.
Having an over tightened chain can also cause the front sprocket spindle to bend.
Doesn't sound good at all. Especially with your comments about the adjusters at the back. You can't rely on the adjusters to ensure your rear wheel is in alignment either.
Manguish
21-05-07, 12:15 PM
Take it off, soak in petrol overnight and try again. Don't forget to relube ;)
Oh and assuming that you have the correct chain for that bike on. Then taking a link out is not the answer. It means it's stretched beyond what is good for you.
Try and pull the chain off the rear sprocket and the point furthers to the rear of the sprocket. If you can pull the chain off the sprocket more than a third, then it's stretched to the point of needing replacing.
Take it off, soak in petrol overnight and try again. Don't forget to relube ;)
Eh?
How would this help?
Also check the front spocket nut is still tight, it might have worked its self off. I've seen it happen on mine.
thedonal
21-05-07, 04:26 PM
Cheers Guys- rolled the bike about (!)- gets tighter and looser, so I'm thinking either the sprocket shaft is bent or the chain is stretched more in some places than others. Taking it to my mechanic for a check before getting it booked in. Hopefully it's the chain, not the shaft..! Gonna have to borrow again to cover this. Road tax time too.
This bike's costing me a bloody fortune! At some point, it will be cheaper than driving a 2litre automatic car, yes?!
Cheers Guys- rolled the bike about (!)- gets tighter and looser, so I'm thinking either the sprocket shaft is bent or the chain is stretched more in some places than others. Taking it to my mechanic for a check before getting it booked in. Hopefully it's the chain, not the shaft..! Gonna have to borrow again to cover this. Road tax time too.
Normally having a tight spot will not do damage to anything else so long as the chain is adjusted to the tightest spot and not the slack part. Seeing as you have already tightened the chain more than once to what must have been the tightest part, then there is indeed a possibility that other damage may have been caused. Let's be positive and hope not.
This bike's costing me a bloody fortune! At some point, it will be cheaper than driving a 2litre automatic car, yes?!
Now who told you that little porkie. :lol:
thedonal
21-05-07, 04:34 PM
Yeah- I've only done limited miles with it really tight, so hopefully no major damage- I'd say knowing my luck, but some things on the bike have actually been simple stuff rather than problems, so I guess it goes both ways...!
Yep- I guess now I know the price of reduced fuel costs now!!! Oh- and far more joy,excitement and realising I'm alive than when I was driving a Laguna (read 2ltr Automatic BOAT! Well comfy car though and very pleasant to drive).
Yep- I guess now I know the price of reduced fuel costs now!!! Oh- and far more joy,excitement and realising I'm alive than when I was driving a Laguna (read 2ltr Automatic BOAT! Well comfy car though and very pleasant to drive).
I drive the Laguna Monaco. Well if I HAVE to drive the car, may as well drive one with some comforts :-)
thedonal
21-05-07, 04:40 PM
Nice. Before mine was written off, I was starting to think though "Smaller car! Smaller car!"
Think it'll have to be some sort of 1.4 runabout next, when I eventually get a car again (handy for being a musician and shopping, far less fun!). Though I'll have to hang around for a while, what with the cash this bike's already cost me in 6 months...
Sid Squid
21-05-07, 05:07 PM
What Big Ape said, particularly the advice about adjustment taking into account uneven wear of the chain, (tighter spots).
Don't soak an 'O' ring chain in petrol - if it isn't knackered now it might well be afterwards.
I'm having a few problems with my chain at the moment- I tighten it with about 20-30mm play, as per the manual, then ride for a while and becomes really tight. Then, if I slacken a little to the correct tension (quarter to half turn on the adjusters), the chain becomes REEEEAAALLY slack. There are a few notches left on the swingarm, but does this mean that the chain either
A) needs replacing
B) needs a link-ectomy or two?
Looks like there is a little wear on the front sprocket, but I'm not sure how to guage this- the back sprocket teeth look OK.
There is also a rubbing/sliding sound when the wheel turns (similar to the sound when you pass parked cars in the street)- more noticeable at speed and it affects the engine speed (though isn't caused by this)- I can feel a few vibes through the pegs with it too if I ride at 50 and pull the clutch lever in/drop the revs.
You've got a bad tight spot there squire.
Get a new chain and sprockets fitted pronto, before it breaks and does some damage to you and the bike. I've had chains with these symptoms break in my youth, when I didn't know any better. I don't let them get that bad any more. The worst one took a chunk out of the back of my leg and destroyed the engine and bodywork of the GPZ1100 I owned at the time. Not fun.
Having an over tightened chain can also cause the front sprocket spindle to bend.
It won't bend, it'll knacker the output shaft bearing really quickly though and cause all manner of damage to the gearbox as a result. Bike gearboxes aint as easy to repair or replace like car ones are.
thedonal
22-05-07, 05:06 PM
Well- getting the chain & sprockets done next week (just popped in to see my mech.)- as long as I take it easy with acceleration/gear changes, should be alright. Lovely. Getting the back brake done and the positioning bolt on my right handlebar drilled and replaced too (was sheared in my off a while back).
Sweet relief..
You can't rely on the adjusters to ensure your rear wheel is in alignment either.
Just out of interest, what is the most accurate way of getting the correct alignment?
Cheers, Gaz.
Just out of interest, what is the most accurate way of getting the correct alignment?
Cheers, Gaz.
Well there is the piece of string and ruler method. But this involves too much for me.
Basically every time I change my sprocket and chain I ride the bike down to my local tyre dealer and he does a laser track. Then when adjusting the chain I just make sure that I adjust both adjusters exactly the same.
There is no need to mess with the adjusters for any other purpose than adjusting the chain. You do not need to touch the adjusters when removing or inserting the wheel.
He charges me a whopping £5 for doing it. If I am having the tyres changed at the same time he will do it for nothing. :thumbsup:
muffles
22-05-07, 07:48 PM
What is the piece of string and ruler method? Just measuring to the end of the swingarm? I've been having oh-so-much-fun with my GSX-R's chain adjustment today :( and I'd like to check it.
I tried to check the adjustment by getting it up on the paddock stand and running it in first whilst looking down the sides - I noticed the edge of the tyre appears uneven but the wheel itself looked in alignment.
I guess I should also clarify that I think I initially put it out of alignment by 1/3 of a turn of a bolt on one side - but the damn wheel looked in alignment still. It was only when I realised that the GSX-R adjusters are as crap as the SV's that I put it back.
Btw sorry this is not about an SV but I think the same questions would apply to an SV and it's useful so if it helps to pretend I'm asking about an SV, please do :D
I did a quick google and came up with this.
http://klr6500.tripod.com/wheelalign.htm
I'm sure if you google further you may find better examples.
muffles
22-05-07, 08:21 PM
Cheers I will take a look :thumbsup: that way I don't need to worry about whether 1/3 of a turn affected it !
One of those magnetic laser beam thingies from B+Q stuck to the sprocket and lined up along the chain does well too - it's what I use on the race bike. Daytonas have single sided swing arms, so the rear wheel never goes out of line :-)
One of those magnetic laser beam thingies from B+Q stuck to the sprocket and lined up along the chain does well too - it's what I use on the race bike. Daytonas have single sided swing arms, so the rear wheel never goes out of line :-)
Yes indeed. One of those are on my wish list. Wish Mrs Ape would bloody spend some time and read that list one day. :roll:
Are you on about the B+Q thingy or the Daytona. I can highly recommend both.
Well Oiled
22-05-07, 09:39 PM
Funnily enough I just replaced my chain and sprockets due to some tight spots. Also did it on the old curvy. Took it out earleir tonight. What a difference - gearchanges are much smoother and easier and there's none of that horrible cyclic clunking at low speeds.
Are you on about the B+Q thingy or the Daytona. I can highly recommend both.
:lol: The laser thingy. Not the Daytona. As nice a bike as it may be, not my cup of tea. :wink:
Anyhow, if I had that on my wish list (the Daytona) she would think I was just being stupid and definitely wouldn't look at the rest of the list. :lol:
The Daytona doesn't feel that far removed from a big V-twin. It makes its power in a similar way, low down with huge great gobs of torque, but it also has the power of an inline 4 - 147bhp. The best of both worlds with a touch of exclusivity and patriotism. V-twin lovers usually get on well with them.
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