Rear seat unit removal & popped 30amp fuse

[swinging_simian]

Hi all

I've been having one of my main 30amp fuses blow with increasing regularity (prompting one 6.5 hour wait for recovery from the RAC...twunts), so I really want to check all the wiring for chaffing etc.

I'm having problems finding any 'destructions' for removing the rear seat unit .

I have found this this for a curvy

http://svrider.com/articles/aug02/SV650-marker-lamps/index.htm

But mine is a K4, does anyone know of a good link? Have yet to try the above, so that may do the trick.

Any suggestions of likely faults for a 30 amp popped fuse may be good too. Probably a big ask I know, but I know nothing about electrics. Might there be some places it definitely won't be for a 30 blow out?

I lifted the tank to check but couldn't find anything obvious. Altho I did notice that one of two, what I assume are breather tubes coming from the right hand side of the tank was disconnected. It may have happened as I lifted the tank but I'm not sure. Another stoppid question, could this have caused a fuse to blow?

It's sunny outside and I can't ride my bike...please help.

Cheers

Nath

[tinpants]

If it keeps blowing the main fuse its usually 'cos the regulator/rectifier has had it. How long does the engine run for before cutting out? If it runs only momentarily then thats the most likely cause. They aren't too expensive to replace.


HTH.

[SoulKiss]

Rear unit removal is easy

1) Remove the pillion seat/seat cowl

2) Remove the plastic covers from just below the front seat.

3) Remove the seat bolts and remove the front seat.

4) Undo the bolts near where the front of the front seat are, these are vertically mounted and go through the rear plastics into the frame near the tank.

5) Undo the small phillips screw and pop the plastic rivet that are both found on the panel between the front and rear seats.

6) Undo the bolts that hold the plastics on either side of the lock mechanism.

7) Undo the bolt that holds the lock release mechanism (steel cable that goes through a rigid metal part, then release the captive ball that pulls the lock release mechanism.

8) Undo the bolts that hold the grabrail/seat retainer in place.

9) Remove the plastic rivets that hold the plastics to the undertray.

10) Disconnect the rear light connector (3 wires in, 3 out, unlike the indicators which are 2 wires in and out)

11) Pull the plastics backwards, pulling them wide to get round various places on the frame.

Assembly is the reverse of the above.

Plastic rivets can be removed by pushing the pin into the rivet and then removed with a flat bladed screwdriver to prise them out.

[Baph]

DO NOT forget to hook that little ball back into it's holder for your pillion seat lock.

Right pain if you put the pillion seat on without attaching the lock cable!!

[wooly]

mine kept blowing the 30amp main fuse a couple of moths back, turned out to be the wire for the numberplate light touching the sub frame.....so you never know, might just be something easy....but be warned, how true this is i dont know but the suzuki tech guy told me i was one lucky lass as everytime it touched the frame my bike gave in and shut down, he said what it could have done was fried all the computer engine stuff....expensive!!!!

[swinging_simian]

Cheers guys! You lot never fail to provide.

The fuse seems only to pop when the weather is slightly wet, and runs fine in the dry. In fact it first went just before a long w/e in the isle of man, an survived a mild drenching on the way back, so it is fairly hard to reproduce.

I'll whip that tail unit off and have a good scout for dodgy connections and chaffed wires. Hopefully a bit of tape will provide the solution rather than any trip to the garage.

Thanks again.

Nath

[swinging_simian]

Finally managed to get some time to take the rear seat unit off, and lo and behold I find the wiring for the rear light has been rubbing on the subframe and one of the wires was exposed. A quick wrapping with insulation tape and I'm fixed.

For completeness, the only thing I'd add to SoulKiss's instructions are to remove the screw and plastic rivet just underneath the back of the seat, it's nigh on impossible to pull the plastics around teh frame otherwise. Also, if you can't pull the rivet out don't be afraid of pushing it right thro', so long as you can find the thing afterwards, it shouldn't break.

Thanks guys.

While I've got the tank up, does anyone know whether these instruction for the DIY tre fix are valid for the pointy's too?

http://www.sv650.org/ig_retard

Cheers

Nath

[swinging_simian]

I thought I'd change the post title now I've changed the subject slightly.

URL is:

http://www.sv650.org/ig_retard/ignition_mod.htm


Is this valid for a pointy? I can't seem to find the rubber boot in question for my K4.

Cheers

Nath

[Brucey]

That only works on curveys as thay dont have fuel injection.

[swinging_simian]

Ah..bugger that then..I'd rather spend the money on a rotor puller and do the advancer mod instead.

Cheers

Nath

[SoulKiss]

For completeness, the only thing I'd add to SoulKiss's instructions are to remove the screw and plastic rivet just underneath the back of the seat, it's nigh on impossible to pull the plastics around teh frame otherwise. Also, if you can't pull the rivet out don't be afraid of pushing it right thro', so long as you can find the thing afterwards, it shouldn't break.

Thats step 5 :P

[Tiger 55]

8) Undo the bolts that hold the grabrail/seat retainer in place.

Assembly is the reverse of the above.
As I discovered only this weekend, if the rubber washer doesn't fit back into the hole and the bolt has become far too long, it's because you have forgotten to put the grabrail back on.

Talk about having a bit left over! :oops: