High Bars - any problems?

[ejohnh]

Sorry if this subject has been laboured before but:

I find the riding position on my Curvy naked gets a bit painful on the wrists and elbows on a long trip and I am going on one in France in August. I have done the lever alignments and the knee gripping but the prob remains.

Renthal do low, med, and high bars (probably among a lot of others). How different to the normal Naked bars are these?
Thanks
John

[leesvee]

I've got the wide braced bars and they're tops!

If you're thinking of fitting renthals there's a few things you'll need to do.....

Stip everything off of the original bars (taking note of what goes where, nothing worse that putting the left hand side together and realising you've forgotten the mirror!) and then remove.
Then before you do anything else put the renthals on and just tighten the clamp down slightly. Now sit on the bike and adjust the angle backwards and forwards until it's comfotable with you (it may help to slide on the brake and clutch leavers back on to get a feel for it) then, when you're happy, mark where the bar meet the risers with some tipex or such like ( you'll need to do this as you might have to undo the clamp and remove the bars to get all the bit's back on.)

The switch gear on both sides (inicators and starter button housing) have lugs that locate them into holes on the standard bars, these stop everything spinning. The renthals will need to be drilled. The best way to mark up is wrapping masking tape around the bars covering the area where the switch gear will sit. Then when you're happy where they'll go push the top of the switch gear downwards gently and it'll leave a mark on the tape. Centre punch and drill. I drilled mine clamped to the risers.

The next point are applicable to K3 650's onwards, might be the same for curvies.

The standard routing of the throttle cables will cause the injectors to be almost wrenched off and the engine bounce of the rev limiter on right lock.

If you look at 'Throtle cables.jpg' you'll see that they now exit on the right hand side of the head stock instead of the left. You'll need lift the tank remove the cables from the injector and reroute them towards where they originally went but turning right before the headstock then out the right hand side. Then connect both ends and adjust. This works a treat and I've had no problems in the three years it's been like it.

The last and final thing is the brake line won't reach unless you unbolt the little clip on the bottom yoke, it'll still look a little taught but again no problems what so ever.

give me a shout if you have any problems