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andyb
07-08-07, 11:17 AM
Hi guys,

Ive been considering getting a Hornet for a while now (please dont shoot me!) but after my ride in torrential rain yesterday and the bike not missing a beat I think I may have changed my mind so I've come up with converting my S to a naked. I've got the GSXR front end already on it so am not sure whether this may make the job more difficult.

I've seen the pic on svrider of that gorgeous curvey with the underseat exhaust etc so I know it can be done, I'm just not sure how, anyone on here done it?

hovis
07-08-07, 11:20 AM
it can be done, although IMO its a lot of work, have a search, as there has been a few threads on this subject,

HTH

Razor
07-08-07, 11:38 AM
If you just want the seated position then you can fit higher bars and risers and keep the front fairing.
It has been done before.

andyb
07-08-07, 11:42 AM
It's partly to do with the seating position but also the fact that i like the look of a naked bike too. I'm not too keen on the higher bars as I think it looks a bit weird on the S but it may work ;)

Razor
07-08-07, 11:54 AM
You can have flat bars, but then you need to cut the screen. The ears get in the way. I tried it but got a different SVS and sold the butchered one. I sometimes think I should have kept the flat bars and cut down screen as it was very comfy and quite practical. You'll need the mirror spacers if you do keep the nose on.

Grinch
07-08-07, 12:02 PM
So far I know this... and it depends on how much you want to do...

Just riser bars, the electrics for the controls can be rerouted to allow for extra length. Though I have found its best to buy a SVN throttle and clutch cable to reach the higher bars, you can get away with re-routing the choke.
Also the screen will need to be cut down else your going to trap your hands and loose your tuning lock.

If you remove the fairing so far I know this, one of the fairing mounts that bolts on to the frame also double as a holder for one the components. If you are careful you can cut the hold of the fairing mount with minimal damage and still use it, and if like me do it just right so that you can put them back together again.
As I'm doing a half/half faired bike I haven't changed the lights so can't advise on that or swapping of the clocks.

Grinch
07-08-07, 12:08 PM
Follow this link for a pic - LINK (http://picasaweb.google.com/sv650r/AnSVRebuild/photo#5078558998255023778)

Jase22
07-08-07, 12:57 PM
It's do-able, but is pricey. Nekkid clocks aren't easy to get hold of, and aren't cheap when you do find a set. It is probably cheaper to buy an "N", but I liked my bike as a whole, and the engine's a beaut so didn't want to chop it in.

Unlike Grinch I got away with all my standard "S" cables on my bike (bar the ones to the clocks obviously) by re-routing, but depends what width and height of bars you fit.

Grinch
07-08-07, 01:02 PM
Unlike Grinch I got away with all my standard "S" cables on my bike (bar the ones to the clocks obviously) by re-routing, but depends what width and height of bars you fit.

Yes it can be done, but I didn't like the way they sat on the bike, and a new set of throttle cables was 25 quid. So I just went with it...

SoulKiss
07-08-07, 01:23 PM
Speak to Raf, he had a go at this on Sunday.......................

Jase22
07-08-07, 01:24 PM
I'd already spent too much money, so went with the cheaper option! :D

andyb
07-08-07, 01:29 PM
Thasnks for the help guys, as I have a GSXR front end will this make it more difficult?

I've just started looking around a bit, think it may cost slightly more that I first though :(

Jase22
07-08-07, 01:36 PM
I have an SV front end, so afraid I'm in the dark. Try 21 QUEST, I think he had a nekkid with a gixer front end?

northwind
07-08-07, 04:38 PM
Mounting the clocks will be a bit more interesting than usual. Headlight's easy enough, there's loads of clamps out there, but finding and fitting SV clocks will need a little investment and ingenuity. Might make more sense to get an aftermarket clock like an Acewell...

haggis
07-08-07, 07:14 PM
Hi AndyB, got your PM. Thanks for the comments!:D
Mine was actually a curvy faired model in the dim and distant. Ahh, the memories!

As Northy says....Acewell clocks. From £80 (that gets you digi speed, revs trip etc. but no idiot lights) up to £140 for all singing/dancing/lights flashing (with a petrol gauge that wont work on an SV :rolleyes:).

That's what I did on mine, the basic one. But, naked clocks at first seemed the way to go. I just got fed up with ebayers wanting £150+ a set.:mad: Then you gotta sort a mounting bracket and front loom. In a word, HASSLE!

Choke, throttle, brakelines and maybe switchgear cables are area's you MAY/MAY NOT need to invest in naked versions to keep things neat and tidy.
I got away with just re-routing the switchgear wiring and the clutch. The rest I replaced. I also tried a naked brake M/C for a while, but that is not strictly necessary.

The bar conversion, you could leave the clip-on's on it?
I got a pair of risers, about £20-50. Drag bars are about a tenner, Renthals are about double that.

There are a hundred different headlamp options. :shaking:
Choose whatever floats your boat!

Good luck, don't get too frustrated. Things you didn't account for WILL happen, lol.
:cool:

northwind
07-08-07, 08:19 PM
As Northy says....Acewell clocks. From £80 (that gets you digi speed, revs trip etc. but no idiot lights) up to £140 for all singing/dancing/lights flashing (with a petrol gauge that wont work on an SV :rolleyes:).


THat's been worked out now...

http://forum.svrider.com/index.php?topic=81501.60

haggis
08-08-07, 03:48 PM
Re: that linked thread on SVrider..
Oooooh! That electrickery is the work of demons i tell thee and nothing good shall come of it. Begone with your witchcraft. :smt018





Nah,seriously. Well done that man. Bugger, wish i'd got the other model now. :( The lack of petrol gauge does catch me out now and then. Might get something to work myself now he's done the groundwork, lol.

Jase22
08-08-07, 04:41 PM
The bar conversion, you could leave the clip-on's on it?
I got a pair of risers, about £20-50. Drag bars are about a tenner, Renthals are about double that.


Be cheaper to get hold of a top yoke and risers from a breakers, aswel as gaining extra mounts and the like.