View Full Version : Clunky Box: Reason and Remedy
dmracing
22-08-07, 10:22 AM
After changing oil, filters, spark plugs, chain and sprokets (again!) on the weekend, I have noticed it is near enough impossible to change gears without the gear box clunking into gear.
It is fixed by not using the clutch going up gears, but this isnt the easiest thing to do when filtering through London traffic as the revs arent high enough for it to change smoothly.
What do you think the cause of this problem is? At first I thought the clutch might be on the way out, but then it has only got 23,000 on the clock so it should still be ok... shouldnt it?
Knowing my luck it is probably on its last legs and will need replacing.
petevtwin650
22-08-07, 10:26 AM
You had to take the clutch actuator mechanism of to get to the front sprocket. Did you adjust that or maybe not do the two bolts up tightly?
how long have you been doing clutchless changes that could be the problem the standed clutch is not meant for it you can buy them from most race shops
dmracing
22-08-07, 10:39 AM
I didnt adjust it, i just took it off, changed the sproket and put it back. I will check the bolts tonight, one of them might have come loose... hopefully.
I useually dont change without the clutch, but it got so annoying that I had to.
Is it easy to replace the clutch if needed?
Alpinestarhero
22-08-07, 10:42 AM
Checked chain tension and clutch cable tension?
Sometimes my gearbox is clunky when its all a bit cold, gets better after 15 mins of riding though
Matt
you may only have to change the plates unless the basket is knotched up should be simple to change with the right tools and a manual
petevtwin650
22-08-07, 10:43 AM
I would be surprised if it's the clutch unit at that mileage. Quite easy job, although you've got a pointy? Not as easy as curvy. not that I've done one mind you.
Im more concerned that you've changed the chain and sprockets twice or is it 3 times in 23000 miles!!!
Get yourself a scotoiler!!
AS for the box. What would you define as clonky? My gear change has never been what i would call smooth, but after 53k my box is certianly becoming a pain. (Jumps out of gear, hard to engage)
Make sure your clutch is adjusted properly (Search for it by sidsquid) Make sure the selctor bar where it goes into the engine (There is a washer and circlip, grease behind there) is greased up and that the whole mechanism is greased and adjusted propely.
dmracing
22-08-07, 11:27 AM
This is the 3rd C&S Kit on the bike. The first (original) gave up the ghost at 16,000.
The second (Suzuki official and fitted by Suzuki Garage) was knackered at 22,000!
The third and current chain is the most heavy duty chain that DID produce. An X-ring VM2!! The sprokets are made by the Renthal boys. This one should hopefully outlive the bike.
Since new, the gears have always clunked changing down and been as quiet as a mouse on the ups. But at the moment its making the same noise as engaging first from neutral, in every up and down movement.
Check:
Oil level (Bike should be level, use sight glass)
Chain tension (Bike should be level with it's weight supported by wheels)
These are the two major culprits. It sounds like your chains have a pretty harsh life. If you're using the bike daily, as Viney says a scottoiler is going to pay for itself in saving you knackered chain & sprockets.
The SV has 2 points of adjustment for the clutch:
The cable tension at both ends of the cable adjusts the slack (there should be maybe 5mm ish)
The clutch mechanism by the front sprocket is a separate point of adjustment, again as Viney says search for "clutch adjustment" by Sid Squid.
Best of luck :)
how long have you been doing clutchless changes that could be the problem the standed clutch is not meant for it you can buy them from most race shops
What has the clutch got to do with clutchless changing? It's not involved, hence the name 'clutchless'. There's nothing in the design of a clutch that can facilitate clutchless changes, it's gearbox design which could help with that.
You're not thinking of slipper clutches are you? Even if you are, they're still not 'designed' for clutchless changes, they're just a back-torque limiting clutch.
no but hes wondering why his box is clunking ie the thred title and said hes been doing clutchless shifting nothing to do with clutch i'l get my coat then and leave you with the fitters.
Biker Biggles
22-08-07, 05:59 PM
Apart from what's been said,another cause of poor shifting is the gear lever where it pivots on the footrest.This needs regular lubing or it will get sticky and ruin the shift action.
Also,do you lube your chain properly?An OEM one should not fail at 6000 miles unless you got ripped off with a sub standard one?
dmracing
02-11-07, 10:14 AM
OK guys. This is really annoying me now.
I have replace the clutch cable and oiled/greased/lubed every single part that needs it on the bike. The Clutch is adjusted correctly. The chain is spot on (and going strong!) and I'm still having the same bloody problem.
This clunking is really annoying... is it time to replace the clutch plates? What else could it be?
Where abouts in London are you?
I might be able to lend a helping hand...
Another thing to check is the actual gear rod bit where it attaches to the gearbox spindle from the engine. If this is loose the your gearbox will not be received 100% input for the gear lever.
its a 10mm bolt that should be accessible with having to take off the sprocket cover.
The SV does rumble so sometimes this can get loose if not torqued up correctly or maybe just with time?
If you touch your gear lever with your hand see if movement of the lever gives direct movement of the gearbox spindle.
Had a Curvy on 65K - 23K shoudl be nothing!
;)
Spanner Man
02-11-07, 11:14 AM
Good morning.
You don't mention whether you have problems selecting neutral when stationary. If you do have problems it sounds as though the clutch is dragging slightly. This could be due to the operating mechanism being worn, which considering you drive in London traffic is a distinct possibility.
I have seen gearboxes which are notchy even when the clutch appears to be adjusted correctly. This is due to wear on the mechanism effectively reducing it's travel, & therefore not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.
Cheers.
P.S. I think a new operating mechanism is around £30.
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