Why do my headlights only work sometimes?

[Tiger 55]

I say 'only work sometimes' because I can't spell intermittent...

Anyway, a K6S it is so the lights are supposed to be on all the time but they seem to be on some kind of work to rule (ask your Dad). Makes no difference if it's wet or dry, warm weather or cold, been running or standing, you name it. Flasher doesn't work either but side lights and indicators are fine.

I'm figuring it's not a fuse or bulb issue and I've had the fairing off to check for (really) obvious chafes in the wires and to give the connector block a damn good WD40ing. The next event is switch disassembly (the old loose wire theory) but l'm less than keen on that so thought I'd find out what the usual problem is...

Cheers!

[hovis]

sounds like a losse wire?

[Sideshow#36]

You say that you figure it isnt the fuse box but have you actually checked it?
Not being condisending (cant spell either... I think,) but when I had my RS125, one day it wouldnt start for love nor money, I had it down in so many bits, tank off, carbs off, sparkies changed, battery changed. Then my missus said have you checked the fuses? Funnily enough there was one not quite seated properly and wouldnt you know... it started 1st time!




I've never heard the end of that one! :rolleyes:

[Ceri JC]

As others have said, intermittent problems are usually symptomatic of a loose wire/dodgy connection. Talking to the electrician last week (problem with wiring in my house) he said that the reason they usually go from only failing occassionally, to only working occassionally (and eventually to not working at all) is that as the wire gets loose, it gets hotter and the heating/cooling tends to make it work itself even looser.

[the white rabbit]

Does it depend on it you have pressed the switch or not? :p HTH

NIBDH :lol:

[Stu]

a K6S
Did somebody say warranty?

[Tiger 55]

I did check the fuses and one of them was loose! But it was the spare :(

No objection to having it done under warranty if that's what it comes down to, I'd just rather do it myself if I can. Helps justify tool expenditure to Mrs Tiger...
Does it depend on it you have pressed the switch or not? :p HTH
There is no switch on a K6 Doc, but thanks for the H ;)

[-Ralph-]

"It's only just happened today offisher! I've known about it since 19th August? But thats just not true offisher! :^o"

;)

[Stig]

Not sure if this is the same on the pointy as on the curvy. But on the curvy, under the riders seat next to the fuses there is a little relay box that controls the headlights. It has been known for this to come loose giving the exact same symptoms that you describe. Try pushing it taking it out and put it back in again. This just may cure your problem.

[Spanner Man]

Morning all.
On a lot of bikes that have the headlights on permanently, the starter button is actually a two way switch, which disconnects the headlight when depressed. Thereby making more current available for starting.
I believe this is the case with K5 models & onwards. It would be worth getting a little contact cleaner into the switch, for it'll only be a refugee spring from a ballpoint pen that holds the contacts together, so any corrosion on the contacts could cause a loss of contact.

A mate of mine totally stripped his 1500 Goldwing in an attempt to find out why his lights didn't work, & finally after several hours of checking wiring & connections rung me in desperation, I said rather casually, 'have you checked the starter button'? He touched it, & guess what, it was stuck in slightly.
I wont repeat what he called me, as this is a U rated site, but it began with knowall & ended after several expletives with F***HEAD!:D

Cheers.

[Tiger 55]

Thanks Big Ape. I took the underseat relay box out and put it back with no result, but I had been wondering what it was...

Spanner Man, you are of course correct about the starter disconnecting the headlights. I separated the switch without taking it off the bar and gave the innards the contact cleaner treatment without result. I couldn't see anything moving in there though so it looks like it'll have to come off for disassembly. Does it squeeze off past the throttle cables or do I have to reduce the bars to their component parts?

And Ralph, the sidelights still work so there's no need for me to be discussing the matter with Strathclyde's finest! And Monday was the first day I needed the bloody lights on having worked away all September...

[Spanner Man]

Good morning.
You normally have to remove the switch from the handlebars to take it apart, which can be a pain when it has throttle cables attached as yours has.

Dismantling switches usually ends up with one of those dreaded 'ping F***IT' moments as the tiny springs depart elsewhere! :D
If you can access the contacts on the back of the switch, you could try bridging between the yellow/white & the black/red. Use a small piece of wire & make sure you don't touch it against anything else.
You could also test the switch at the loom plug, unplug it & test for the following;
The starter button when depressed should show continuity from the orange/white to the yellow/green. (Starter circuit)
Upon release you should have continuity from the yellow/white to the black/red. (Headlight circuit).
Unfortunately good continuity doesn't necessarily mean all is well with the switch, as a cruddy contact will often read ok on a multimeter, but not actually allow current through. So you may end up having one of those 'ping F***IT moments after all.

Also check your left hand switch plug, as the lighting current runs through both handlebar switches.

Cheers.

[Tiger 55]

So not a job for the office car park in the rain you're saying? OK, there will now be a slight delay!

Thanks again Spanner Man.

[Spanner Man]

Afternoon all.
No, definitely not a car park job, unless you can get an office Floozie to hold a big brolly over you, hold an inspection light, make you coffee, pass the tools, & have a portable heater to hand, with which to waft warm air in your direction when required.....Octopus Floozie methinks!:D

Cheers.

[yorkie_chris]

Bit off topic, sorry.

on the curvy, under the riders seat next to the fuses there is a little relay box that controls the headlights.

Are you sure about that?
On my K1 the only box down there except for the fusebox is the sidestand relay/flasher unit. nothing to do with lights as they're switches directly by the RHS grip and then the hi/lo/pass on the LHS grip.

[Tiger 55]

definitely not a car park job
No surprises that Spanner Man was dead on about that...

Took it to Mickey Oates in Glasgow who diagnosed a dodgy connector block (the one that lives above the radiator) due to water ingress. The mechanic gave it a good clean and applied some sort of purple miracle grease to get me back on the road while a new part was ordered. Happy happy.

Fast forward to the arrival of the part under warranty and it's replacement yesterday. Part in question? The wiring loom. All of it. Seems Suzuki wouldn't honour a claim for something so insignificant as the connector block so I get a new (miracle greased up) wiring loom and a promise that it'll give me no more trouble.

Had to reset the time on my clock mind you, but I know how to do that...

[hovis]

Why do my headlights only work sometimes? ...
because........... they are only somtimes switched on?



:rolleyes: