Cold oil, painful start

[billboot]

Typical, nothing for two years then he has a problem and expects everyone to help.
It's this: I went to start my carb'ed 650 on Sat after a cold night in the garage and the oil was seriously turgid with chilliness. Engine ran, but in pain with the lack of lubricant (no jokes please) until it warmed. A recent service included an oil change, so surely it shouldn't sludge like that with temp drop? Any tips on how to warm up oil before starting (crappy lock-up has no electricity)? Or do I need a fully-synthetic oil to get problem winter thin-ness. Any help warmly recieved (ho ho)
Bill

[Stu]

I believe semi synthetic is what's best.
How cold are you talking about? (you don't say where you are)
If it starts I would just get on & ride off.

[Razor]

Location, location, location. If you're in Alaska we really can't help...

[billboot]

Location: Streatham, south London. Temp: not really that cold (4 deg C mebbe?).

[Razor]

If the engine ran without lubricant it'd be knocking shortly after. Mine, curvy, is noisy on a cold start, even when it's been sat for a couple of weeks.

[embee]

Not sure why you believe the engine was in pain. Was it making nasty noises?

If the recent oil change stuck to the recommended 10W-40 it should be fine, a 10W is suitable for starting down to -10C with no problem (and -20C ought to be OK according to the rough guide charts). Only if you were in the position of regularly running in below zero ambient would it be definitely a good idea to go to something thinner (5W etc)

Temp/viscosity chart halfway down here
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

[billboot]

It didn't sound in pain, but it cut out after starting, and the oil light came on. I tried to start it again unsuccessfully (hadn't figured the oil light for anything other than the usual bank of lights when it stalls). I looked down into the window and there was no oil showing - I topped up and it started but the oil still took ages for it to show in the window, suggesting it was all sitting in a chilly sludge over the other side (angled there when the the bike was on its stand). The 10w-40w you'd think would be fine, but just wondered if anyone else has experienced a similar problem. Might change the oil if it persists. Does anyone whack a full size bike cover on to 'seal the heat in' as my MoT guy suggested?

[Biker Biggles]

The oil light is not there to indicate the level,just the pressure when it is running,hence it comes on when the engine is stopped.The level in the sight glass needs to be checked with the bike absolutely upright and on level ground.Your oil will not all sit over on the left if the bike is upright,unless you filled it with tar.Most svs wont run well when cold,and need a bit of cajoling to get running well enough to ride off.

[billboot]

It was just so unusual. Nothing like it in the two years I've had it.
Thanks for your thoughts.

[CB1ROCKET]

make sure you check the oil level with the bike vertical and not on the side stand.

[yorkie_chris]

Oil will have to be seriously baked to go thick enough that it won't flow, even the 50w stuff in older cars would flow enough at that temperature to pour and show up in the window.
the dreaded black sludge that seems to appear seems to be baked additives, and not the oil itself.

Also, if you poured the oil in, then it can't have been that thick!

The other alternative is that there is some sort of one way valve in the system to stop the oil from draining back into the sump from the galleries and such and this has failed. Maybe change the filter as well, as theres some sort of valve in the filter itself I think.

The oil light will come on with the engine stalled, as with the oil pump not moving, theres no oil pressure!

I'd say change your oil and filter, as this has never done anything any harm and will give you a bit of peace of mind, otherwise I think you're being paranoid. (all IMO)

[Spanner Man]

Morning all.

At the risk of starting the 'great oil debate of 2007' again. I think that cold starts are where the better Semi synthetics & the fully synthetics come into their own. As they seem to be more consistent viscosity wise. I have seen allegedly 10 weight oils that are visually thicker than others at the same temperature.
Back in the days before I*ahem* knew everything:-D I tested various oils to see which reached the valve gear on my Guzzi the fastest on cold starting, & the winner by some 5 seconds was a bike specific 10/40.

Most engines make quite a mechanical racket for the first few seconds after starting from cold, most of the noise comes from the valve gear, as it's the last place to receive oil.
On my Trophy 1200 the noise disappeared some 3 or 4 seconds faster upon cold starting, after switching to Castrol R4 5/40 from Morris MLR4 which is also a 5/40. This shows that there is a considerable difference in actual viscosity, despite what it says on the tin.
I shall get on my soapbox again & say, that the best oil for road use is a fully synthetic bike specific one, 10/40 or 5/40.

Cheers.